# Planted Tanks > Aquascaping >  9month old tank

## Wingless

Started this tank last year but the plant has been growing quite slow. Seeking advice from bro.

tank: 60x30x36
light: just updated to Twinstar light 600es, 2pm to 10pm
co2: 1.5bps (intense bazooka), 12pm to 9pm a internal pump at left back ontop of co2 outlet to circulate the co2
chiller: no, on fan 24hours (temp now is 29) top up water every 2 days
fertilizer: following seachem dosage but dose when light going to turn off in 2 hours, but i left home at 5+ in the morning and reach home at 7pm+
water change: ~30% every few weeks previously, but doing weekly every weekend now.

photo of my tank after water change


water parameters taken before lights on 


I am facing a few issue:
1. Plant not growing well, MC growing quite slow/ e.tenellus grow very slow or dying off
2. BGA algae always grow at front glass panel at the substrate (going to take a black cover to cover the front soil level) and dosing more seachem nitrogen
3. From the water parameter taken, ammonia ~0.25ppm/ nitrite 0ppm but nitrate only ~0.25ppm, is it normal? 
4. Staurogyne stem tall, only top got leaf, bottom is emptied  :Confused: 

thanks bro in advanced for any advice/ feedback!

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## happydanio123

Hi there! 1.5 bps seems quite little for a carpet tank. However if it's settled in then leave it as that if not pushing it up maybe to 2bps or more would help. My tank runs on approximately 2.5-3 off a ceramic diffuser and the difference between that and say 1 bps is tremendous. 
Regarding algae water changes should help. If they still persists it Could be the balance between CO2 and ferts is off. 
Sorry no shifu tanks are overrun with algae as well, as long you are ok with it just leave it be and it will sort itself out.

Cheers,
Happydanio

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## Wingless

Thanks bro. 

Previous tank i tried increase co2 but the snail shell starts to rot(holes) almost within half a day.. this time i will try to increase co2 abit at a time.. 

i am currently learning to balance the co2 and fert as i doesnt have much knowledge about it..

Once again thanks for your advice! 

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## tetrakid

Why you don't do PH Test?

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## Wingless

> Why you don't do PH Test?


Hi bro, i did a ph test.. second picture from my first post..  

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## Zep

Hi, what kind of seachem ferts are you dosing at the moment ?

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## milk_vanilla

From my experience bga is triggered due to dirty subtrate and rotten plants which cause high organic matter accumulation at substrate level or lacking of N. If it didnt turn to wild, you could manually remove by sucking it with hose or use peroxide

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## Wingless

> Hi, what kind of seachem ferts are you dosing at the moment ?


Currently dosing excel/N/P/K/iron and florish accordingly to seachem recommended dosage and 40% water change on sunday..

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## Wingless

> From my experience bga is triggered due to dirty subtrate and rotten plants which cause high organic matter accumulation at substrate level or lacking of N. If it didnt turn to wild, you could manually remove by sucking it with hose or use peroxide


I tried removing those in the soil leve against the front glass panel using a chopstick as there's also "air" bubble in there.. but only managed to remove 50% as i keep uprooting my MC during the process..

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## Zep

You might want to increase the N dosage as 0.25ppm is low. The typical value to aim for is 10-20ppm. However it is good to increase the dosage slowly and monitor for algae. You can also increase the dosage of P and K as seachem's recommended dosage is pretty lean. 

Aim for 0.5-2 ppm for P and 10-20ppm for K. you can calculate the dosage from the seachem bottle formula. 

Seachem Iron can be dosed daily at about 1.5ml or so if you are not already doing so. 

Hope this helps for you.

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## Wingless

> You might want to increase the N dosage as 0.25ppm is low. The typical value to aim for is 10-20ppm. However it is good to increase the dosage slowly and monitor for algae. You can also increase the dosage of P and K as seachem's recommended dosage is pretty lean. 
> 
> Aim for 0.5-2 ppm for P and 10-20ppm for K. you can calculate the dosage from the seachem bottle formula. 
> 
> Seachem Iron can be dosed daily at about 1.5ml or so if you are not already doing so. 
> 
> Hope this helps for you.


As i left for work at 5am but my lights only turns on at 2pm, can i dose the fert before i go for work? Else i only reach home at 6+ to 7pm and my light going off at 10pm.. 

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## Zep

Shouldn't be a problem. I do the same thing as you. Dose at 630am before lights turn on. 

I experimented with dosing at night just after the photo period. But I find that the results are not that good. 

If you read through some threads from some of the overseas forums, the experts there suggests that there is no difference in the time of dosing as plants use the ferts and grow all the time. Not during a particular period.

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## Wingless

> Shouldn't be a problem. I do the same thing as you. Dose at 630am before lights turn on. 
> 
> I experimented with dosing at night just after the photo period. But I find that the results are not that good. 
> 
> If you read through some threads from some of the overseas forums, the experts there suggests that there is no difference in the time of dosing as plants use the ferts and grow all the time. Not during a particular period.


Thanks for the sharing bro! 

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## tetrakid

> Hi bro, i did a ph test.. second picture from my first post..  
> 
> Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk


Oops!!!!! pH looks okay! ☺

By the way, the only test I do for my tanks is pH - yes, only one test. Sad to say , I have yet to do other tests.

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## Zep

Good luck bro. If you see too much algae growing you may want to reduce the photo period. Twinstar rgb is pretty strong. 

I am using the same light and I have it at 7.5hrs. I see green algae growth on my tank walls. Will be trying to reduce the photo period. At least I am not getting those pest algae. Green algae on walls are easily removed .

I am also having my co2 at 1.5-2 Bps. So we are having very similar setups.

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## Wingless

> Good luck bro. If you see too much algae growing you may want to reduce the photo period. Twinstar rgb is pretty strong. 
> 
> I am using the same light and I have it at 7.5hrs. I see green algae growth on my tank walls. Will be trying to reduce the photo period. At least I am not getting those pest algae. Green algae on walls are easily removed .
> 
> I am also having my co2 at 1.5-2 Bps. So we are having very similar setups.


Will continue to monitor the lighting period. 

The current algae i fighting with is BGA, else is the plant not growing..

Currently i only have these plant in my tank:
1. MC (slightly less than a year), front patch
2. Hairgrass (planted 2 weeks ago), behind
3. Us Fissiden (about half a year), ontop of the rock/ tied on coconut shell
4. E.tennellus (about half a year)
5. Unknown red plant (about half a year)
5. Rotala (about half a year, left 2 stem as the rest infested with algae and dying off)
6. Staruogyne repens (about half a year)


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## golfball

> Will continue to monitor the lighting period. 
> 
> The current algae i fighting with is BGA, else is the plant not growing..
> 
> Currently i only have these plant in my tank:
> 1. MC (slightly less than a year), front patch
> 2. Hairgrass (planted 2 weeks ago), behind
> 3. Us Fissiden (about half a year), ontop of the rock/ tied on coconut shell
> 4. E.tennellus (about half a year)
> ...


Can check if your co2 is sufficient. Your pH before lights on is 7.6. You can measure pH towards end of photo period and see if you are in the sixes. Or u can use a drop checker. In my tank, pH drop from 7.5 to about 6 to 6.5 from the co2. You should be careful about the livestock so adjust slowly or move them out while you play with Co2. I have many cherry shrimps in my tank and they are still breeding. My Drop checker is yellow green. If your plants are in a bad state, it'll take a long time to recover if at all. Or u might plant fresh for the very poor ones. Up to you. I feel that your fertilizer can add much more. Since your nitrate so low. Your phosphorus? Can also add more if in doubt. And iron too. In my new nano tank 30cm I have high light, high fertilizers coz very hard to control. A ton of co2 about 2 Bps. High light. No livestock yet until the plants flourish and tank stable. No algae at all. Plant growth very fast. I am going to tune down by reducing light, co2 a bit before add fish. 

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## golfball

Oh one more thing. You might want to consider siphoning your substrate or your carpet. I do it every other week and have no bga. Reduce the organic waste might help with the bga. 

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## Goalkeeper

I could be wrong but once BGA sets in especially in the substrate, it's very difficult to eliminate 100%. But can be controlled by spraying peroxide regularly. To eliminate 100% will need chemicals or anti biotic but no guaranty they won't come back. So best is reduce lighting period and use peroxide to control them.

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## tetrakid

Use of peroxide risks killing all the delicate good bacteria in the bio-media and tank, all of which took months to cultivate. Always remember the long weeks of impatient waiting during the initial cycling period to cultivate a colony of bacteria. The bacteria are extremely precious things in a tank setup.

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## Wingless

Thanks both. I trying to combat the bga through water change and reduce/increase fert dosage (e.g nitrogen).. this tank will become a trial-and-error tank for me to learn the growth of plant and algae.. 

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## Wingless

Hi guys, just another quick question. I got a ISTA co2 checker (dont need additional liquid), it always show yellow greenish after awhile. I just bought another ANS co2 checker from seaview (3 drop of solution + tank water), it always showing blue greenish. I am confused, which indicator should i trust? 

Did i set up the indicator wrongly? From what i observed:
- the fish didnt show any stressfulness
- snail shell didnt rot
- can see plant pearling if i off the filter
- co2 about 2-2.5bps

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## Zep

Hi, you need to mix with 4 dkh solution instead of tank water. Then the results will be right.

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## golfball

> Hi guys, just another quick question. I got a ISTA co2 checker (dont need additional liquid), it always show yellow greenish after awhile. I just bought another ANS co2 checker from seaview (3 drop of solution + tank water), it always showing blue greenish. I am confused, which indicator should i trust? 
> 
> Did i set up the indicator wrongly? From what i observed:
> - the fish didnt show any stressfulness
> - snail shell didnt rot
> - can see plant pearling if i off the filter
> - co2 about 2-2.5bps
> 
> Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk


The Ista co2 checker is the premixed solution and should be more accurate. If you leave the drop checker outside the tank, it will show up as blue color. The other one needs to be mixed with 4dkh solution for the color to show up as green if your co2 is 30ppm. If your tank water kh is not 4, the color is not accurate. 

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## torque6

> Hi, you need to mix with 4 dkh solution instead of tank water. Then the results will be right.


No need to mix. Just buy ANS 4DKH solution from Y618 at either Changi or Yishun. Few dollars only. Call to inquire on stock availability. 1 small bottle can use for 1 year plus or more.

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## golfball

> The Ista co2 checker is the premixed solution and should be more accurate. If you leave the drop checker outside the tank, it will show up as blue color. The other one needs to be mixed with 4dkh solution for the color to show up as green if your co2 is 30ppm. If your tank water kh is not 4, the color is not accurate. 
> 
> Sent from my Redmi Note 3 using Tapatalk


I hope you did not position your drop checker too near your co2 diffuser as that may result in inaccurate reading. Since your Ista drop checker, the one with premix solution, is showing yellow green, my guess is that your current co2 level is OK. Try to bump up your fertilizers a bit too and watch your plants over one to two weeks. Plants Pearling is good sign. The other area is to take note is reducing organic waste like over feeding, proper tank maintenance and substrate vacuuming. 

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## Wingless

> No need to mix. Just buy ANS 4DKH solution from Y618 at either Changi or Yishun. Few dollars only. Call to inquire on stock availability. 1 small bottle can use for 1 year plus or more.


thanks bro.. will drop by y618 to check!


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## Wingless

> I hope you did not position your drop checker too near your co2 diffuser as that may result in inaccurate reading. Since your Ista drop checker, the one with premix solution, is showing yellow green, my guess is that your current co2 level is OK. Try to bump up your fertilizers a bit too and watch your plants over one to two weeks. Plants Pearling is good sign. The other area is to take note is reducing organic waste like over feeding, proper tank maintenance and substrate vacuuming. 
> 
> Sent from my Redmi Note 3 using Tapatalk


my co2 diffuser is at front left, internal pump at left back, filter inlet at right back and filter outlet at front right.. both co2 indicator near filter inlet.. will do substrate vacuuming as i seldom vacuum substrate area cause i worried to suck in too much soil.. haha


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## milk_vanilla

You can gently bump the substrate with your hand during water change, it's not necessary to use the soil vacuum kind of equipment that may disturb the foreground plant

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## torque6

I have been following your 2FT tank journals since your "Beginner Iwagumi" back in 2013. I was contemplating a 2FT vs 3FT last year but seeing all the issues with 2FT nano tanks on various forums made me quite hesitant. They have major algae breakdown after 6 to 12 months and needs to tore down for rescape. It's always recurring. 

2FT is advertised by many LFS as the "most popular" "beginner" tank. No idea who came up with the idea. Nano tanks aren't for beginners.

Twinstar 600e is by the way high light, and if there is slow or no growth, you will be algae. Always.

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## Wingless

> I have been following your 2FT tank journals since your "Beginner Iwagumi" back in 2013. I was contemplating a 2FT vs 3FT last year but seeing all the issues with 2FT nano tanks on various forums made me quite hesitant. They have major algae breakdown after 6 to 12 months and needs to tore down for rescape. It's always recurring. 
> 
> 2FT is advertised by many LFS as the "most popular" "beginner" tank. No idea who came up with the idea. Nano tanks aren't for beginners.
> 
> Twinstar 600e is by the way high light, and if there is slow or no growth, you will be algae. Always.


hi bro, thanks for following haha.. 

i added more staurogyne at the back, new monte carlo left and right side, increased co2 to 2.5bps, reduced light period to 7 hours, added seachem n/p/k/iron/flourish and do 40% water change every sunday.. 

now the green leaf is back and BGA is gone after spot treatment with hydrogen peroxide.. algae mostly gone now.. just waiting for the plant to spread out  :Smile:

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## torque6

40% water change is quite huge for a nano tank. No idea how you can keep up after so many years. But it's good and persistent work though. Smaller tanks need more effort.


I don't use hydrogen peroxide or erythromycin anymore because it kills off your good bacteria in your filter. I keep this in my cabinet nowadays when I encounter BGA. It's good, cause no side effects on the good bacteria. You just need to monitor your Nitrate level and prepare for water change + clean the filter in 1-2 days because it will confirm be in the RED zone. Treatment is for 7 days.






If after treatment you have BGA again, just siphon them out. It will come back in 2-3 weeks if nitrate bottom out or filter is dirty, but just repeat the process. BGA will slowly stop appearing in your tank. 


I agree with you that BGA once it's in your tank, it's hard to remove. My last 1FT tank was decommissioned because it killed all the plants in my tank.

Just a warning. Becareful when using medication though. What works for some people may not work for others.

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## torque6

I came across this vid by a local expert recently. It's very good. My take away from his guide that "it is better to use 2x lower powered LED lights vs 1 high powered LED lights" to avoid algae issues. 






There is alot of talk that a 0.5watt LED cannot penetrate a 45cm depth tank, you must use 1-3watt light. That is false and I have photos of my Japanese hair grass bubbling to prove it. Will post next time, once my 3FT project fills in.

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## Wingless

IMG_1723.jpg

some pucture update of my tank


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## Wingless

added 3 dwarf puffer to control the snail infest from the moss i bought from seaview.. within 1 day most of the pest disappeared.. very hardworking! 



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## Wingless



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## TTerry

> added 3 dwarf puffer to control the snail infest from the moss i bought from seaview.. within 1 day most of the pest disappeared.. very hardworking! 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Hi, is the dwarf puffers friendly towards other fauna?

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## Wingless

> Hi, is the dwarf puffers friendly towards other fauna?


as of now, it doesnt disturb my cherry shrimp/ amano shrimp/ nirite snail and other fishes.. many says it depends on their personality.. i am lucky to get friendly puffer.. finger crossed


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