# Other Aquarium Forums > Equipment and Accessories > DIY Projects >  Ideas for DIY Hood with T5HO

## vratenza

Hi! I'm planning to convert my 2x1x1 12mm tank to a paludarium (yeah..bitten by the bug!). I was initially looking for a good 2ft T5HO light set and also to fabricate a cover to control the humidity...then it occurred to me that I am probably better off constructing a customized hood to house a DIY T5HO set and to keep in the moisture.

I need inspiration and suggestion on the kind of material and construction method I should be considering. 

I thought of using aluminum bars as frame and using wooden plants as the walls but how do one attach wood panels to aluminum?

Any kind suggestions are welcomed! :Grin:

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## gemo82

Hi, I made a DIY Hood with 4 X T5HO for my aquarium last year, so I thought I could share some experience. The links to my post are below for your reference. 

I used acrylic sheets as I found the material to be lighter and easier to work with, on top of that, water and chemical proof. It does not degrade or rust. Maybe you can consider using acrylic instead, and use glue or rivets to join them. They can even be ordered precut to the sizes you want so you minimise DIY effort. There is a link on my post to an online art shop that delivers precut acrylic sheets. 

PVC trunkings were used for my light hoods, which rested on top of the tank canopy and can be lifted off to access the inside of the tank. For your setup, since you need to keep moisture in, maybe you can use acrylic to make the whole canopy and include a flippable top using acrylic hinges. 

For the lights, I used waterproof end caps as they are not protected with a shield from water splashes. For your setup, perhaps there would not be splashing of water but making the light fixture water proof would prevent moisture from getting in, especially since it is in high humidity conditions. You can purchase all the necessary accessories you need for the lighting from DeLightings: http://www.delightings.com/

For my DIY, I included LEDS as night lights and fans for ventilation. I supposed you do not need fans for ventilation since you need to trap moisture in, but they could be used for cooling your lights, if you design the lights to be in a light cover without airflow to your tank.

I would be glad to discuss further and do post your design and construction process to share with us.

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## Merviso

Hi bro, I'm actually quite impressed by the Aluminum Bar system that you are using to do up MH Rack on the other post. In fact, I'm already planing to do up my next 3ft stand using this system.




> I thought of using aluminum bars as frame and using wooden plants as the walls but how do one attach wood panels to aluminum?
> 
> Any kind suggestions are welcomed!


I would think that if you chose a wooden plank with thickness slightly lesser than the slot on each side of the aluminum bar, you should be able to cramp and secure the wooden plank using the aluminum bar on both side and or even 4 sides, without using anything else. Should be neat and nice!  :Smug:

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## vratenza

> Hi, I made a DIY Hood with 4 X T5HO for my aquarium last year, so I thought I could share some experience. The links to my post are below for your reference. 
> 
> I used acrylic sheets as I found the material to be lighter and easier to work with, on top of that, water and chemical proof. It does not degrade or rust. Maybe you can consider using acrylic instead, and use glue or rivets to join them. They can even be ordered precut to the sizes you want so you minimise DIY effort. There is a link on my post to an online art shop that delivers precut acrylic sheets. 
> 
> PVC trunkings were used for my light hoods, which rested on top of the tank canopy and can be lifted off to access the inside of the tank. For your setup, since you need to keep moisture in, maybe you can use acrylic to make the whole canopy and include a flippable top using acrylic hinges. 
> 
> For the lights, I used waterproof end caps as they are not protected with a shield from water splashes. For your setup, perhaps there would not be splashing of water but making the light fixture water proof would prevent moisture from getting in, especially since it is in high humidity conditions. You can purchase all the necessary accessories you need for the lighting from DeLightings: http://www.delightings.com/
> 
> For my DIY, I included LEDS as night lights and fans for ventilation. I supposed you do not need fans for ventilation since you need to trap moisture in, but they could be used for cooling your lights, if you design the lights to be in a light cover without airflow to your tank.
> ...


wow...that's a lot of information and DIY guide! took me a while to completely read through them. Very informative! You are pretty good in your design and building (I guess that's why you are using CAD..for work? :Wink:  )

I like the idea of using acrylics but I am hesitant for a few reasons:

1) the last time I worked with acrylics was when in sec1-2 technical class (do they still call it that way?), so a little apprehensive especially the cutting and sanding portion as I do not have the power tools...I remembered last time in school they have electrical bench saw and sanding/buffing machines

2) I looked at the online shop you posted... the acrylic sheets comes in very large pieces and it cost $55 for a sheet when I only prob using 20% of the total amount cos my tank is only 2X1 feet foot print. Keeping the rest for next time use is one thing, irritating my wife by taking up her storage space for her shoes in the storeroom is another! :Knockout: 

3) Purely ignorant question: will the acrylics deform under the heat from the ballast/tubes?

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## vratenza

> Hi bro, I'm actually quite impressed by the Aluminum Bar system that you are using to do up MH Rack on the other post. In fact, I'm already planing to do up my next 3ft stand using this system.
> 
> 
> 
> I would think that if you chose a wooden plank with thickness slightly lesser than the slot on each side of the aluminum bar, you should be able to cramp and secure the wooden plank using the aluminum bar on both side and or even 4 sides, without using anything else. Should be neat and nice!


I understand what you are saying....essentially the alu bars will act as a frame to hold the wooden planks that you slide them into. good idea  :Smile: 
But off hand I am thinking on how to "close up a panel when you place the last alu bar onto the last side of the square/rectangle....
Need to mull over it looking at my MH rack set...hahaha :Grin: 

Anyway, instead of the wooden plank, it occurred to me I can use more attractive materials for the panels if I want to use the alu bar frame system.

eg.
Aluminum composite panels

http://www.dama.com.sg/aluminum-comp...ifications.htm

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## Merviso

Wah... this post is getting real poisonous...  :Razz: 

I'm sure very interested to follow it's development, and if you need someone to help carry your aluminum bars or assist in your setting up, just let us know! I'm sure many of us would like to get some fun out of it...  :Grin:  :Kiss:  

Btw... if you are using a slightly bendable material, it might be able to slide into the frame after you have setup the joints, just that the dimension of the material must be slightly smaller to give some allowance...  :Wink:

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## gemo82

Hi,

I use CAD cause I got too much time and the program was left in my computer since University days. Couldn't visualise, so had to do that lor... :Razz: 

I also did not have much tools to work with the acrylic, only drill for holes, and riveting. That was why I ordered them pre-cut. No funny shapes though, only pieces of rectangular acrylics. Wanted to bend the sheets for my design, but no machine, no confidence, hence simple design. 

The website isn't comprehensive. You can send them an email with the dimensions of the sheets you want, any size or thickness, and they will quote accordingly. 

For deformation of acrylic under heat, I did not check cause my light casing is made from PVC. Maybe you can google the deformation temperature of acrylic and see if the working temperature of the eballast and light tubes are below that temperature. Just a gut-feeling, that it should not be a problem, but check to be sure. Think I'll check on that myself when I got the time.

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