# Other Aquarium Forums > Equipment and Accessories >  Solenoid doesn't seem to turn off CO2 supply?

## Nanami

Hi everybody,

I just got a CO2 set recently - my very first CO2 set  :Smile: 

I got everything set up and connected the solenoid's switch to the timer and then I noticed that even when switched off the bubbles are still produced which means the solenoid is not stopping the co2 supply.

The clicking sound is present when I tested by switching it on and off. I did a search and found that a spoiled solenoid will instead turn off the co2 supply as opposed to turn on which is so in my case.  :Crying: 

so could any bros or sis share with me the possible problems and what i can do to rectify the problem?

p.s: as of now i'm letting the co2 run all night which other than being wasteful is fine as I still have no livestock in my tank. 

thank you!

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## Jimmy

you mean after it is off, there are still bubbles coming out at the bubble counter?

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## monster_88

Do you mean that the CO2 bubbles are still bubbling from the diffuser in your aquarium or there's still bubbling in the bubble counter? If it's from the diffuser, then it's normal as it'll take some time for the residual CO2 pressurised within the pipe to finish releasing. But on the other hand, the bubbling in the bubble counter should stop quite soon after the solenoid is de-energised.

Usually if can still hear the click sound of the solenoid, chances is it's still function fine. (..... I hope  :Smile: )

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## Nanami

yes thank you for your replies

yes after it's switched off the bubbles are still coming out. i can see it coming out from the bubble counter.

if the plug of the solenoid is detached or set on timer (off mode) should co2 bubbles should continue to be produced? 

my solenoid is now connected to the timer (off mode) and i thought it might be residual co2 but it's still happily bubbling for the past hour....

please advise :'(

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## monster_88

Oh dear, in that case, it is abnormal. For the mean time, you should shut it off manually using the main valve (usually red) on the bottle so that you won't over inject CO2 to your aquarium. You can turn it back on the same way, it is now manual control as if without a solenoid. You should probably bring it back to the shop to check and if it's new then there may be warranty cover.

Good luck.

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## Nanami

oh no... it's not new, i got it 2nd hand. 

Is there anywhere I could repair it? the sale is already done i don't want to bother the seller any further... 

if i can't repair it how much does a new one cost?

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## Jimmy

any other equipment connected to your timer? did you try without timer? just to rule out not the timer issue.

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## Nanami

> any other equipment connected to your timer? did you try without timer? just to rule out not the timer issue.


the other equipment connect to the timer would be the lighting.. Haven't occurred to me to try without the timer but will do so tonight... thank you for your suggestion!  :Smile: 

In the event it's not the fault with the timer? Anyway I could repair it myself? or will there be any website i could go to that shows exactly what goes on in the solenoid so that i can repair or replace and faulty parts?

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## monster_88

You may try this, ...... but first bear in mind the CO2 bottle is a pressurised system so always take precaution by shutting main valve and reduce pressure first. >>Shut off the main valve (the big one) on the CO2 bottle, switch ON the solenoid (without the timer so as to rule out possible failure of timer), then observe the pressure guage to see if the pressure starts to drop... it should...otherwise increase the flow alittle by opening the smaller valve on the regulator (near the solenoid). When you see the presure starts to drop, OFF the solenoid (unplug power will be the most sure way) and see if the pressure continue to drop (should not if valve is good), if not then it'll go all the way till zero. So, if you observe that pressure continue to drop at the same rate as when solenoid was energised, then when the pressure is low before zero try tapping the solenoid valve (not the coil; the metal piece connected to the solenoid) gently in case it's stuck in open position. Observe and see is pressure still dropping at the same rate. If it slows down, then try On-Off solenoid afew times and see if it'll free the valve.

**Always try to reduce most of the gas pressure 1st before tapping or meddling with the system.

Good Luck  :Smile:

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## Nanami

> You may try this, ...... but first bear in mind the CO2 bottle is a pressurised system so always take precaution by shutting main valve and reduce pressure first. >>Shut off the main valve (the big one) on the CO2 bottle, switch ON the solenoid (without the timer so as to rule out possible failure of timer), then observe the pressure guage to see if the pressure starts to drop... it should...otherwise increase the flow alittle by opening the smaller valve on the regulator (near the solenoid). When you see the presure starts to drop, OFF the solenoid (unplug power will be the most sure way) and see if the pressure continue to drop (should not if valve is good), if not then it'll go all the way till zero. So, if you observe that pressure continue to drop at the same rate as when solenoid was energised, then when the pressure is low before zero try tapping the solenoid valve (not the coil; the metal piece connected to the solenoid) gently in case it's stuck in open position. Observe and see is pressure still dropping at the same rate. If it slows down, then try On-Off solenoid afew times and see if it'll free the valve.
> 
> **Always try to reduce most of the gas pressure 1st before tapping or meddling with the system.
> 
> Good Luck


thank you! that was really detailed! i'll go meddle it this evening when i get home. you mentioned tapping the metal piece connected to the solenoid, does that mean i have to remove the solenoid from the tank? the solenoid i have is a black cubic object with no signs of coil exposed and i'm not really sure which is the metal piece. sorry  :Sad: 

just to reconfirm - when the solenoid is switched off / taken off the plug, it should stop the flow of the bubbles right? and when it's switched on then it will open the valve to release the bubbles?

if that's the case then the solenoid is really faulty since no matter it's switched on or off the bubbles still comes out  :Sad:

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## crazyhanz

If you had bought the particular solenoid regulator 2nd hand, you should rectify this problem with the seller. No point you spending more money to get it fixed as it might be more worth the money just getting a new one instead. It is also not fair on you side to receive an item that is deemed faulty but not mentioned by the seller.

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## Nanami

anyway if all else fails can bros please advise me the price range, recommended solenoids and where i can get it (i live in tampines, weekends spent in choa chu kang area). Since i've already spent a lot on this CO2 set, I'd prefer to spend less to replace this faulty solenoid.

I know that NA is pretty popular around here but since I don't drive it seems a bit far off from me. But then again if everyone points me to a far off place I will still have to go  :Grin:  

sorry to seem like i'm whining  :Sad:

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## Nanami

> If you had bought the particular solenoid regulator 2nd hand, you should rectify this problem with the seller. No point you spending more money to get it fixed as it might be more worth the money just getting a new one instead. It is also not fair on you side to receive an item that is deemed faulty but not mentioned by the seller.


thank you bro for your suggestion.

I did send an sms and it seems he is ready to give me a refund!

update: after speaking to him over the phone. he advised me a lot about getting the solenoid changed I felt it'd be unfair to him to get a refund so i guess i'll tinker with it this evening when i get home from work and if it still doesn't work i will go get a new one.

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## monster_88

> thank you! that was really detailed! i'll go meddle it this evening when i get home. you mentioned tapping the metal piece connected to the solenoid, does that mean i have to remove the solenoid from the tank? the solenoid i have is a black cubic object with no signs of coil exposed and i'm not really sure which is the metal piece. sorry


You are welcome... just trying to help  :Smile:  Hope I can give you right info  :Grin:  Ok, you need NOT remove anything. The solenoid is a coil that is usually enclosed inside a plastic casing connected directly to a "solenoid" valve which should be metal. It operates as an electromagnet that when energised will move the internal piston of the valve to open state. Hmmm.... I don't know how to attach picture here... anyway, typically, you should see a big round metal portion directly connected to the CO2 tank with the 2 (usually; can be one also) pressure guages sticking out ==> this is the regulator. The metal portion connecting (in between) this regulator and the needle valve (place where you'll have your tube to the bubble counter) is the solenoid valve. This is where you can lightly tap to see if the valve can return to shut postion when de-energised.




> just to reconfirm - when the solenoid is switched off / taken off the plug, it should stop the flow of the bubbles right? and when it's switched on then it will open the valve to release the bubbles?


Yes, (ON) energise to supply CO2, (OFF) de-energise should stop CO2 flow.




> if that's the case then the solenoid is really faulty since no matter it's switched on or off the bubbles still comes out


Haha...seems like it. Look on the bright side, at least you can still use it in manual mode ==> turn on before u leave for work and turn it off when come home manually lor. Otherwise, if it's the solenoid coil that failed then you can't even operate in manual mode.

Good luck again  :Wink:

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## Nanami

> Haha...seems like it. Look on the bright side, at least you can still use it in manual mode ==> turn on before u leave for work and turn it off when come home manually lor. Otherwise, if it's the solenoid coil that failed then you can't even operate in manual mode.
> 
> Good luck again



hahaha  :Grin:  this made me feel A LOT better! yup at least i can still use it. at least i don't have fish in my tank yet so i wont have to worry about taking lives via co2 poisoning!  :Well done: 

i will dismantle the solenoid if i get a new solenoid after trying out what you taught me. I'm kind of interested how it goes like inside  :Grin:

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## carlfsk

Mine also spoilt like yours. I went to NA hopefully Chan can get it fixed. But seems that he can't. I am also hoping someone can help to fix it, otherwise it seems such a waste.

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## Nanami

no choice, i called and made a query regarding the price of just the solenoid at one lfs and I'm surprised that it's much cheaper than I thought. 

I was thinking in excess of about $80 but I got a quote of less than $50  :Grin:

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## monster_88

I think you may be able get a full set (taiwan brand) for about 75 from NA... not sure how much it'll cost just for the valve though. Furthermore, it's not sure whether it's your solenoid or the valve that need replacement. You may like to ask the shop for better advise before buying to DIY.

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## Nanami

> I think you may be able get a full set (taiwan brand) for about 75 from NA... not sure how much it'll cost just for the valve though. Furthermore, it's not sure whether it's your solenoid or the valve that need replacement. You may like to ask the shop for better advise before buying to DIY.


thank you for your advise.

Owner of the LFS asked me to bring my whole thing down so that he can set up for me. Good service  :Well done:  

if changing solenoid doesn't work I will change the whole thing (keeping fingers crossed)

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## monster_88

Good then  :Smile: .
But just wondering, why don't you return the set to the seller if he's willing to refund you and get another 2nd hand set which may still be cheaper?

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## herns

Clippard Solenoids like this one are awesome! I use it together with an Ideal Metering valve (far left). This post body kit goes with any CO2 regulator of 1/4" port. I had this kit connected to Victor Regulator.


Post Body Kit


Victor Regulator (Left)

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## Nanami

> Good then .
> But just wondering, why don't you return the set to the seller if he's willing to refund you and get another 2nd hand set which may still be cheaper?


I feel "paiseh" (sorry mods I couldn't find a good english word to replace this word) I guess.

I didn't want to trouble him to meeting up again just to get the thing back from me and refund me, I don't know I feel bad if I have to impose on him like that. To me the deal was concluded when I left with the set that day so it didn't seem right to me to run back to him for a refund. 

And besides he sold it to me rather cheaply - solenoid + regulator + glass bubble counter + 2-way valve + tubing + backflow valve +free lesson on how to use it... Since the rest of the stuff is still working and I can get the solenoid cheap I don't mind not having a refund  :Smile:

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## Nanami

> Clippard Solenoids like this one are awesome! I use it together with an Ideal Metering valve (far left). This post body kit goes with any CO2 regulator of 1/4" port. I had this kit connected to Victor Regulator.
> 
> 
> Post Body Kit
> 
> 
> Victor Regulator (Left)


Herns, Thank you for your suggestion, seems like a pretty sturdy solenoid you have there, but not that readily available here in Singapore I guess? I'll keep a lookout for this solenoid when I head down to the shop to get a replacement.  :Smile:

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## GaspingGurami

there's some rather powerful springs in a solenoid that push the plunger needle to shut off CO2 when power is not delivered to the electromagnet in the solenoid.

This spring may be broken. If it is, you won't hear a "click" (the sound the needle makes when it returns to shut off the CO2 supply), when you turn off the power to the solenoid.

Or the needle may be worn/not seating squarely in its orifice. In this case, you'd hear the click but gas still continues to squeeze through.

Considering the spring is a high pressure spring, I advise you not to try opening the solenoid as tou have a high powered missle ready to shoot out and damage things.

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## Nanami

> there's some rather powerful springs in a solenoid that push the plunger needle to shut off CO2 when power is not delivered to the electromagnet in the solenoid.
> 
> This spring may be broken. If it is, you won't hear a "click" (the sound the needle makes when it returns to shut off the CO2 supply), when you turn off the power to the solenoid.
> 
> Or the needle may be worn/not seating squarely in its orifice. In this case, you'd hear the click but gas still continues to squeeze through.
> 
> Considering the spring is a high pressure spring, I advise you not to try opening the solenoid as tou have a high powered missle ready to shoot out and damage things.


thank you for telling me about this.

I haven't opened up the solenoid and hearing this I guess I will not open it up at all. I don't think I want to have my front teeth knocked out when the missile comes flying to my face!! hahaha!

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## bettarism

> thank you for telling me about this.
> 
> I haven't opened up the solenoid and hearing this I guess I will not open it up at all. I don't think I want to have my front teeth knocked out when the missile comes flying to my face!! hahaha!


NA Chan repaired mine for only $5/-. And mine was a brand new set (with the same problem as yours). The shop which i bought the solenoid from doesn't allow me to change and kept saying it is normal to have the bubble on for 1 hr after solenoid is off! 

I have since boycott that shop which is very near NA! 

Anyway, it takes less than 5 minutes to repair. Good luck!

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