# Killies Import > Non-Killie Segment >  Plumbing manifold for recirculating system

## RonWill

Dear all,
I've been procrastinating in modifying the plumbing manifold but should be time to get it off the drawing board (or MS Paint proggie :wink: ) All clickable thumbnails for brief loading.

Couldn't make up my mind on whether to have the return flow, going through the UV-sterilizers in 'series' or 'parallel', and the biggest consideration being undisrupted circulation during maintenance of UVs.

 
_(Kho, you should find these 2 diagrams very familiar because they brought us together :wink: )_

But I finally made up my mind and the illustration below shows the path of water flow.

With the *PVC ball valve* closed, water will flow through the UV units, without allowing 'un-zapped' water bypass.
During maintenance, the ball valve is opened and the two *Eheim's Double tap connector* are closed, separated and allowing the UVs to be removed.

This how the whole shebam looks like, incorporating the *Henri deBruyn filters* in an attempt to lower the water temperature.


I'm basically done with the thinking (killed off enough brain cells already) but constructive ideas are always welcomed.

oh... and did I mention the other stuffs at the *gallery*? Enjoy!

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## kc

Ronnie,

I may not be interested in your DIY project but I find your drawing very professional drawn. Are you in this line? What software are you using?

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## RonWill

> I may not be interested in your DIY project but I find your drawing very professional drawn. Are you in this line? What software are you using?


eh KC, if you're using Windoze, you already have this free software! It's MS *Paint* (click on the 'Start' button, go to 'Program', select 'Accessories' and it should be there).

It's a very plain, feature-hungry program when compared to the industry's defacto standard, Photoshop, but it can still output semi-decent illustrations. (*WARNING*: _Extended exposure will lead to hair loss and reduced brain cell-count!_  :Shocked:   :Laughing:   :Laughing:  )

... and no, my day job is miles apart from anything related to computer graphics but has alot of 'bite' in it!

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## FC

> Couldn't make up my mind on whether to have the return flow, going through the UV-sterilizers in 'series' or 'parallel', and the biggest consideration being undisrupted circulation during maintenance of UVs.


In term of ease of maintenance and sterilisation efficiency (where period of exposure counts), you would be better off having the UV in series. The ball valve location is excellence for maintenance or switching between direct flow / UV.

Question:
How does the middle tank's flow back pipe (the one on the left) works?

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## shortman

Ronnie,

I am not too sure why the middle tank have 2 down pipes.


Regards

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## RonWill

Guys,
Overflow prefilter boxes are used in overflow systems for tanks without holes to accept bulkheads. In my case it's optional, depending on how well I can control the flow from the 2 inputs; ie. from the top tank and the tapped return (from the pipe on the right).

If one downpipe is inadequate to deal with the input (or gets clogged with moss), then the overflow box will take part of the 'flow' down to the sump. Effectively, it can also double as a surface skimmer.

I'll expand further on the overflow box and double down pipes later with diagram (or maybe shoot a pic of a hand-drawn, if I'm too lazy), but right now, I'm at work. (ssshhh...)

Meanwhile, do a google on 'overflow prefilter' and there will be plenty of pics, theories on how and why it works. Perhaps then, you'll understand what I'm trying to accomplish.

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## PohSan

Hi Ronnie,
If possible, I will prefer three separated tanks in order to isolate disease or parasite. Following is my slight modification to your drawing. I hope that I did not infringe your copyright!



Regards,
Ong Poh San

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## RonWill

Poh San, the top tank is mostly ferns, moss, otos and a shrimp breeding tank. A direct down pipe to the sump will lose alot of baby shrimps (if they're that stupid!) and it's a waste... I'd rather they become an alternate food source!

Since there's not many fishes at the top, disease control is not an problem (and neither is copyright an issue amongst members :wink: ).

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## PohSan

Hi Ronnie,
Do you think it will cut down time if a automatic water changing system is integrated into the system. I have been thinking about this. This is my proposal:



From the drawing, the timer will be set to turn on the pump on the defined day for about 15 min. Pump will deliver the water to the top tank and the sump tank will have a overflowing hole that drain the water away. 

I hope to receive any comments from all of you in order to improve it. Thanks.

Regards,
Ong Poh San

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## RonWill

> Question:
> How does the middle tank's flow back pipe (the one on the left) works?


Freddy, instead of using someone else's pictures, I've completed 2 for your reference.

*Overflow Prefilter Box*

Water from main tank enters fluted (insert diagram) section at 'A'. The level of water within internal box ('B') is determined by height of downpipe at 'G' (which should never be lower than points 'D' & 'E').

The U-siphon tube can be made with a valve at the top, to draw water up or remove trapped air (via venturi inlet from optional powerhead), and must be water-filled at all times.

When water level in main tank drops below point 'A', the downflow will cease and remain as shown above.

*Overflow Prefilter Pipes*

In lieu of boxes, PVC plumbing pipes can also be used. Same theory but if one wishes to use *one* size of pipe, a 'Double-J' configuration is employed (pics and explanation in the following link).

Meanwhile, Kho sent this link which will explain things better than I can (thanks! Kho).
http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/inde...5&#entry156973 

A "*Durso standpipe*" will also work on similar principles.

Poh San, a top-up system sounds great but only if permanent plumbing line/drainage hole is available or near the setup. I'll think over it and see what is available.

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## FC

A picture say a thousands words, I am *crystal clear* about it now. So, looking forward to see you start work...me included?

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## RonWill

Hi all,

I've been looking at the space next to the sump and it's gonna be a tight fit  :Crying:  but should be able to accomodate a few more customized tanks (at right of picture below).


If space becomes restrictive, I'll consider shifting the UVs to either side of the fish rack.
 <-Left , Right-> 

Return path now differs with an additional ball-valve to prevent backflow during dismount of the UV units.


These 'PVC union connectors' will be used in place of the Eheim double-tap connectors. Anyone know whether these are available in metric dimensions? or a stockist that has both the white and grey PVC components?
 

The new arrangement will occupy a shorter span than using Eheim taps. Comments anyone?

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## shortman

> These 'PVC union connectors' will be used in place of the Eheim double-tap connectors. Anyone know whether these are available in metric dimensions? or a stockist that has both the white and grey PVC components?
>  
> anyone?


Most plumbing shop will have both the white and gray. Just quote them the matric they know how to convert it for you.

Are you gonna do it over this Saturday?  :Cool:  

Best regards

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## RonWill

Kho, most of the shops I visited don't carry much parts/adaptors for the grey PVC and the plumbing shop along Balestier don't understand what I want... even when I drew out the union connector for him. Strange...

I won't embark on the project until all the parts are in hand. IMHO, nothing worse than finding you're one part short... in the middle of the job.

The other 'star' of the show is my previous sump, which is still with my bro-in-law.

Which reminds me... I'll need to get a replacement impeller rod for my Eheim.

Do drop by this Saturday, Kho. I have something for you.

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## RonWill

I'm in an endless circle of planning and revisiting the drawing board but the goal looks clearer [and Wright/Deb really have to send me some of those elusive "Round Tuits"!  :Laughing:  ]

In addition to the Henri deBruyn filters, the middle and lower tanks will incorporate drip tubes that directs flow over built-up pieces of driftwoods, on which mosses and ferns will grow. Somewhat terrarium-styled I suppose.

Valves will control the drip rate and since it's in constant contact with water, it's best to have *plastic* ball valves or mini in-line taps which I found at a local nursery (pictured below).


Although reasonably priced, I found even cheaper ones here and are probably produced by the same manufacturor... looks similar don't they?


Will be getting a few more while ordering a larger drip system for my terrestrial potted plants. Better if anyone knows of an affordable local source.

 :Idea:   :Idea:  I found another use for these mini taps  :Idea:   :Idea:  Both ends fit the air tubing perfectly and presently using these for my BBS hatchery! Non-drip, salt-water friendly and works like a charm! If there's enough interest in these mini taps, I'll kick off another thread for a group order.

Meanwhile, back to the drawing board :wink:

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## RonWill

ok folks, I've gotten the sump in place on the bottom rack. At the heart of the system is a Eheim 1060 pump with new ceramic impeller rod & rubber bushings. It's running strong, minus the rattling from a previously improvised rod from satay stick :wink: 


Aug 8th. Still can't decide how to run the output to the UV units but at least I know there's ample clearance for burly hands.


Aug 15th. Running in the pump. Output direct to top tank, overflowing via drip pipe to 2nd tank, but need to 'bleed off' via ball-valve.

A friend gave me the idea to have the UVs under the rack, on the floor, which will allow me to have 2 more breeding tanks (right side of sump)

Will _probably_ work on the PVC return plumbing this weekend.

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