# Other Aquarium Forums > Equipment and Accessories >  leaking eheim pro II 2026

## granzord

http://www.aquaticquotient.com/galle...44_640x480.jpg

http://www.aquaticquotient.com/galle...43_640x480.jpg

Hi all,

changing canister water today and found out leaking at the bottom left side of canister.

Any advice from bros here. heard and read up that leaking usually o-ring and damages usually $25dol.... is it true for both statement? those white tape maybe cheaper alternative from one of the bros advice here?

thanks for advice .

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## BFG

Could be the red o-ring that is needed to be change or the quick release o-ring. If you have recently replaced the quick release o-ring, then the culprit is the red one. For this, you need to go to Qian Hu to get it done.

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## gryphon

You need to identify where leak started from. If its the O-ring of the motor head you should see the water dripping from between the motor head and canister.
If its dripping directly from the canister, you might have accidentally cracked the plastic canister.

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## avex30

hmm same issue i have with my 2026 the water is coming down from that hollow part. If you check you canister there is 2 side with a hollow portion if you see water there that is the culpirt. What i did was i open the cover again and close it back to try it mostly solve the problem. It always happen to me when i open up to change the wool and close it back. But after a few times of opening and closing it stop until the next round when i change the wool again.

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## stormhawk

If it's coming from the seam between the canister head and body, it's the big black O-ring around the head. Mine occasionally leaks but it goes away after awhile. Sometimes the head does not sit right and the leaks will start, so I usually just remove and reattach the head. Using some Eheim Vaseline? (I think that's the name) for the rubber bits will increase their lifespan.

There should not be a leak at the corners since the grey parts on the sides are hollow pieces that protect the edges of the green body part. You might want to detach the hoses and move the filter somewhere safe for a quick check. Tilt the body and use a torchlight to see if there's a crack at the bottom or somewhere else along the side.

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## granzord

buy o-ring from c328 and test it tonight. if no leak. celebrate . if still leak, i go buy 4-d .

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## stormhawk

Get that "vaseline" mentioned and rub it on the O-ring before you put it in and on the o-ring itself once you seal the canister. It should help alot. The problem is that the rubber stuff will harden and sometimes crack, especially in our climate.

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## Navanod

Yes, fully agree on using the eheim grease. Very important for extending the lifespan of the o-rings and preventing leaks

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## granzord

> Could be the red o-ring that is needed to be change or the quick release o-ring. If you have recently replaced the quick release o-ring, then the culprit is the red one. For this, you need to go to Qian Hu to get it done.


 
i change the head o-ring... still leak.... very sad... what next? my head o-ring is white tape around ...nowe leak like more worse lol...

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## granzord

> If it's coming from the seam between the canister head and body, it's the big black O-ring around the head. Mine occasionally leaks but it goes away after awhile. Sometimes the head does not sit right and the leaks will start, so I usually just remove and reattach the head. Using some Eheim Vaseline? (I think that's the name) for the rubber bits will increase their lifespan.
> 
> There should not be a leak at the corners since the grey parts on the sides are hollow pieces that protect the edges of the green body part. You might want to detach the hoses and move the filter somewhere safe for a quick check. Tilt the body and use a torchlight to see if there's a crack at the bottom or somewhere else along the side.


 
actually when i detact the head... the leak stop ... therefore quite confident canister body no pro... might be the head ...now that i change the o-ring to new one... i believe maybe other area...i now trying to por some water and see how....see the hollow part also quite full of water... where u buy the grease thing??? 

haha think go buy 4-d. strike can buy new one lol

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## tawauboy

check whether the 2 o-rings at the inlet/outlet adapter are deformed. the deformation may not be obvious, ie. slightly flattened.

for the grease, you can use vaseline (petroleum jelly) from any helthcare shops or from any good lfs.

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## granzord

actually i detact , por water out , place clip properly... put back.... no more leak??? very swee monitor for the night....

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## felix_fx2

Hi bro, vasline I also apply after cleaning filter or after prolonged storage on rubber o ring

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## granzord

more worse than before. help. actually last time out o-ring better than new o-ring. the below 4 corner all leaking. top and head no leak, any advice.

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## granzord

well i guess the leak is more worse than before. even after changing o-ring. its leak from the bottom.from the head i cannot see any visble leak. 

1) i take out hose , bring canister out. still leak from bottom. leak from the four corner of the leg. inside got rubber thing. leak from there. 
2) take out canister head. leak stop. check head. two corner of water fill to brim. maybe error ?
3) i put back old o-ring see how the condition. 

any good advice from bros ? what happening.

if not goin to buy new one again. waste of money .sianz...

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## granzord

my wild guess - i press canister head to canister.maybe flow from canister head down to four corner inside when water flowing peak level

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## felix_fx2

> my wild guess - i press canister head to canister.maybe flow from canister head down to four corner inside when water flowing peak level


You are trying to say the canister top assembly is leaking from within.
Help you phase it, my cf-1200 had leaks from there.
Should have 2-3 o-rings inside.
2 at where the inlet/outlet are attached to the assembly.
If have self priming, that section might have.
If you recall, I briefly mentioned about this when you came up.

Edit: went to see the layout of the canister. It does self prim, but does not seem to require an o-ring as looks like the quick release solved that problem. If mobile part it is sure to have o-ring thingy, else push in push out water come out. 

Btw: where you live?

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## stormhawk

You don't need the white teflon tape honestly. If the O-Ring is sitting in the position correctly and greased, there should not be any leaks at the seam. Did you replace the O-Ring correctly?

Don't fit the canister head back wrongly. There is a hole that leads to the input part of the head, which leads to the bottom of the canister. If you fit it the wrong way the water will pass through the fine pad first, which is wrong. Check the 2 small O-Rings at the input and output heads and also n the attachment that fits there. The red piece that goes over the little flow rate indicator ball should be fine.

See this side diagram to get a better idea:



Key parts to take note of are as follows:

#74444190 (2 o-rings for the input/output attachment) - sealing rings for double tap
#7343150 (main o-ring for the canister head) - sealing gasket
#7343390 (2 rubber joints for the white filter trays) - rubber seals

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## felix_fx2

Hi stormhawk.
The 2026 has any not easily serviced parts?
My cf-1200 has o-rings in places not indicated by manual, which I only found after unscrewing the cap.
Good that you point out the closing top assembly need to align. I didn't see that this model need.

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## stormhawk

If not aligned properly the fine filter pad will impede the flow of water. Bad idea and it won't close properly either last I remember.

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## granzord

> You don't need the white teflon tape honestly. If the O-Ring is sitting in the position correctly and greased, there should not be any leaks at the seam. Did you replace the O-Ring correctly?
> 
> Don't fit the canister head back wrongly. There is a hole that leads to the input part of the head, which leads to the bottom of the canister. If you fit it the wrong way the water will pass through the fine pad first, which is wrong. Check the 2 small O-Rings at the input and output heads and also n the attachment that fits there. The red piece that goes over the little flow rate indicator ball should be fine.
> 
> See this side diagram to get a better idea:
> 
> 
> 
> Key parts to take note of are as follows:
> ...


thks bro , your picture is very detail.
actually a few wuestions if don't mind. 
1) wher u get the grease ? any grease will do?
2) goin to change the 2-o ring for input and output, as i see many post similar to my problem and after changin red o-ring ...no complaints.
3) rubber seal at where? 
4) i saw rubber o-ring at tray in some post, r they refer to the rubber in 4 corners of the tray in the bottom . actually one of the rubber (small rubber to connect into hole at bottom) is missing... the leak all start for these 4 corners.

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## granzord

> You are trying to say the canister top assembly is leaking from within.
> Help you phase it, my cf-1200 had leaks from there.
> Should have 2-3 o-rings inside.
> 2 at where the inlet/outlet are attached to the assembly.
> If have self priming, that section might have.
> If you recall, I briefly mentioned about this when you came up.
> 
> Edit: went to see the layout of the canister. It does self prim, but does not seem to require an o-ring as looks like the quick release solved that problem. If mobile part it is sure to have o-ring thingy, else push in push out water come out. 
> 
> Btw: where you live?


hi bro ,

i be thinking and reading for these problem for a while..
think u maybe right... o-ring at input/output.

i put new o-ring in canister head. while put back , i can sense that head is tightly secure while puting back clip.diff feeling from last old o-ring .
then i read up , saw 1 guy totally same problem as me haha. he change red-o-ring , then no problem. so i hope too. today goin c328 c how .... if not qian hu , sibei far.....

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## stormhawk

> 1) wher u get the grease ? any grease will do?
> 2) goin to change the 2-o ring for input and output, as i see many post similar to my problem and after changin red o-ring ...no complaints.
> 3) rubber seal at where? 
> 4) i saw rubber o-ring at tray in some post, r they refer to the rubber in 4 corners of the tray in the bottom . actually one of the rubber (small rubber to connect into hole at bottom) is missing... the leak all start for these 4 corners.


1) You can get the grease from any shop that stocks EHEIM parts or petroleum jelly will do.
2) There's no O-Ring for the red piece that goes on the flow meter, but replacing the 2 for the input/output attachment is a good idea.
3) The rubber seals go on cylindrical piece on each filter tray at the top. They basically make the pieces fit correctly so no leakage within the canister. I never changed mine for the past 7 years or so. Not so necessary but if you're going to change everything might as well change that too.
4) The only rubber pieces that go on 4 corners are the 4 tiny rubber feet at the bottom. You might want to check those too just in case.

This page will show a full diagram and you can identify the parts I mentioned from the part numbers:
http://www.eheimspares.co.uk/eheim_1...nal_filter.php

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## granzord

> 1) You can get the grease from any shop that stocks EHEIM parts or petroleum jelly will do.
> 2) There's no O-Ring for the red piece that goes on the flow meter, but replacing the 2 for the input/output attachment is a good idea.
> 3) The rubber seals go on cylindrical piece on each filter tray at the top. They basically make the pieces fit correctly so no leakage within the canister. I never changed mine for the past 7 years or so. Not so necessary but if you're going to change everything might as well change that too.
> 4) The only rubber pieces that go on 4 corners are the 4 tiny rubber feet at the bottom. You might want to check those too just in case.
> 
> This page will show a full diagram and you can identify the parts I mentioned from the part numbers:
> http://www.eheimspares.co.uk/eheim_1...nal_filter.php


GReat bro. your info is super. now i know most of the parts ...usually not sure what is where. haha

today went down to c328.
uncle say pump o-ring maybe faulty, advise to change along with the input and output o-ring.
damage - $25 for pump o-ring(no number, pump head for water to go in, he suspect there one stuck) and $25 for 2 small o-ring 7444190...they also got sell the input/ output head (744457 :Cool:  is it come along with o-ring one ? cost $39. suspect is doesn't , anybody knew.

1) grease = vaseline ( 734598 :Cool:  ? how much it cost?

hope after changing , will solve my problem. friday is a long wait.. lucky i got power head to pump chiller or jialat....

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## felix_fx2

Bro, it might have few variation like 2213's impeller.
Never ask uncle?
Good luck ok.

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## stormhawk

You only need the 3 crucial O-rings I mentioned. The main gasket and the 2 small ones for the input/output head. You don't need a brand new input/output attachment head. For the input and output head O-rings, you can find the same size at some hardware stores but buying Eheim made parts might be better. Rubber quality is important, so original parts are always better. The input/output head should come with the rubber seals but you can see for yourself. I doubt they come together with the seals though since they're listed separately on the diagram.

What the uncle said about the internal piece being stuck can refer to the impeller assembly. There are 2 tiny rubber pieces at either end of the impeller and sometimes these tiny ones are not placed right. These are part no. 7444390 which includes the stick on which the impeller rotates.

I got no idea how much the eheim grease costs but it should not be too expensive.

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## felix_fx2

The last thing you want to have is this part to fail you.


Taken from guide.
http://www.njagc.net/articles/eheim_oring.htm
NOTE: *DO NOT TRY THIS AS IT WILL VOID EHIEM WARRANTY*

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## BFG

Granzord, you do know that sms language is highly frowned upon right?

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## granzord

> The last thing you want to have is this part to fail you.
> 
> 
> Taken from guide.
> http://www.njagc.net/articles/eheim_oring.htm
> NOTE: *DO NOT TRY THIS AS IT WILL VOID EHIEM WARRANTY*


THis cost me 1day and $25dol.... $4.80 for the small O-ring.....$25 for the head O-ring.....hope it end here or i really don't know what going on....can really go buy 4-d liao.
vasline petrol jerry can put on main O-ring , how about small O-ring then ? put little or lot. please advise. thanks.

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## granzord

> Granzord, you do know that sms language is highly frowned upon right?


 
sorry for the mistake...sometimes too fustrated to think properly.

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## granzord

> You only need the 3 crucial O-rings I mentioned. The main gasket and the 2 small ones for the input/output head. You don't need a brand new input/output attachment head. For the input and output head O-rings, you can find the same size at some hardware stores but buying Eheim made parts might be better. Rubber quality is important, so original parts are always better. The input/output head should come with the rubber seals but you can see for yourself. I doubt they come together with the seals though since they're listed separately on the diagram.
> 
> What the uncle said about the internal piece being stuck can refer to the impeller assembly. There are 2 tiny rubber pieces at either end of the impeller and sometimes these tiny ones are not placed right. These are part no. 7444390 which includes the stick on which the impeller rotates.
> 
> I got no idea how much the eheim grease costs but it should not be too expensive.


ya $4.80 for the small O-ring.. i change liao. tonight will be deciding factor for me. just reach home...very tired...but i will carry on for my tank.

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## granzord

swee currently no pro. hope can cross the night.i open the small o-ring , harden one. so i think that is the problem. hope so.

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## felix_fx2

> ya $4.80 for the small O-ring.. i change liao. tonight will be deciding factor for me. just reach home...very tired...but i will carry on for my tank.


Gotcha!

Need to keep practice the art of formal writing. Before someone asks
"hey mate, what does that mean"
Benefit people searching for solution to their woes.
Best of luck.

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## Navanod

By the way, the eheim grease costs around $4+ at C328 for a small pack. It's enough for at least 2 canisters

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## felix_fx2

> By the way, the eheim grease costs around $4+ at C328 for a small pack. It's enough for at least 2 canisters


Navanod, I think all is good. He went Watsons yesterday to buy vasline.
He morning whatsapp feedback to me that so far no leaks.

But input is good, others can see and know when search fourm where sells ehiem grease  :Smile:

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## granzord

hi everyone, believe me or not. the flow is good. no more leaking... next time should know where to change the culprits.....

thanks everyone for the help. it being a busy and tiring time with the leak.

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## felix_fx2

Bro grats  :Smile: 
Good to hear things are smooth going.
Hope to hear some fissiden and crs from you soon.

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## granzord

crs not doing that greatz at the moment...my 2 fire red are now populating my tank with mani baby shrimps...how i hope they are crs offsprings....

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## BFG

A tip for canister filter owner is for them to place their canister filter in another container. I found that Ikea Samla storage container has the right fit for Eheim Pro 2 series. All my Eheim canister filter are placed in such container in order to catch any leakage for whatever reason.

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## EheimSucks

I bought the Pro 3 2075 brand new in Sept 2012 that came with a 3 year warranty. The filter leaked after 2 years destroying my $350 wooden stand. Water leaked out near the power cord. After searching the net I found out that this was a common issue among Pro 3 filters made before Aug 2010. There have also been countless reports of Eheim's Customer Support department ignoring customer emails when contacted for warranty claims. 

I emailed them and immediately the next day I received a reply asking for the Serial number, the shipping address and the retail store from which I bought the filter. I replied with the information and that was the last I heard from them. I have sent them 4 more emails since then and they completely ignored them. I have been another victim of their scam.

Apparently Eheim is engaging in fraudulent acitivities, marketing their filters as "Premium" products that come with a 3 year warranty. However, they will try their best NOT to honor the warranty. Maybe I need to call them everyday and write nasty letters to get them to acknowledge my issue. I know some of their victims have received a replacement head unit this way after sending threatening emails and making repeated phone calls. However, it shouldn't have to be this difficult.

I have another Pro 2 filter that also leaked after 6 years of operation. From what I have heard, the company was bought and the quality of customer service has become horrible since then. It is now reaching the point of fraud. 

I will never buy another Eheim product again. Beware!!!

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## stormhawk

The warranty is only honored by the retailer or distributor you got it from. In our case, the local distributor is Qian Hu Fish Farm. I have no idea who distributes it in your area in the USA but you should look to the local distributor for help. Eheim products can be easily repaired with spare parts that you can order off eBay or online stores if you live out in the boonies but since you need the head unit, then you'd have to contact the main office in Germany instead I think. I've only had one leaking Eheim filter but that was an old Pro 1 2222 and was due to the rubber seal drying out because I forgot to lubricate it with the grease that came with the set.

In your case, it's likely the inner head gasket or something related to the priming feature gave way. A rule of thumb with canister filters is to place it in a plastic tub in case of leakage since it will leak to a certain extent and stop. Every single canister, irregardless of brand, has a chance to leak. Even my old 2026 leaked before but that was because I didn't seal the top right. Since then it hasn't leaked at all and it's still running fine for the past 8-10 years since I first had it. The LFS I bought it from engraved the shop's name on the lower part of the pump unit so if I had issues with it I can go straight to the LFS. Not sure what's the practice for your LFS though.

I sympathise with your case with lousy customer support but then again, it's up to the retailer or distributor for your area to honor the warranty. I don't see why your retailer can't honor it though. He must have a spare 2075 lying around. Then again yours was running for 2 years before breaking down, hence I guess they weren't too keen to replace it. Good luck with your issue and hope the customer support gets it right this time round. I've had my fair share with lousy customer support but this is a first if anything for Eheim.

If the warranty doesn't mention anything about defects due to wear and tear over a prolonged period of time, then they should replace the head unit for your filter.

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## Ryan Peh

Found this thread from so many years ago when I was on google trying to find out why my Eheim is leaking. I just got it 2nd hand from someone off this forum. 

Anyone know where or who I can bring my Eheim to to replace the O ring? 
It's currently leaking at the connecting part between the body and the head. I am not familiar with Eheim at all so I'm wondering if I can bring it to C328 and ask them replace for me or something??

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## justin_diong

You may bring the eheim down to Qian Hu to trouble shoot the leaking problem.

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## Ryan Peh

Would that cost a lot to repair the leak?

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## Dscheng

> Found this thread from so many years ago when I was on google trying to find out why my Eheim is leaking. I just got it 2nd hand from someone off this forum. 
> 
> Anyone know where or who I can bring my Eheim to to replace the O ring? 
> It's currently leaking at the connecting part between the body and the head. I am not familiar with Eheim at all so I'm wondering if I can bring it to C328 and ask them replace for me or something??


Is it leaking from the double tap? It is common for this model.

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## Ryan Peh

It's leaking from the edge between the body and the top. It only leaks when I'm running. I think it's the gasket problem.. But I'm not good with this kind of DIY stuff....

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