# Planted Tanks > Beginners' Corner >  Another newbie with 2ft planted intentions

## exo

Hi guys, 

I have been lurking around here a for a few weeks looking at random threads. So im almost done doing tht and will be embarking on the planning stage of setting up this tank. 

I would like create a Iwugami tank adding livestock like cardinals and neon tetras at a later stage when the water has stabilized.

Can i ask what are the main water testers and what not i would need at this stage?

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## bryan

http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.u...t.php?sid=3118

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## exo

> http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.u...t.php?sid=3118


thanks for the reply. coincidentally. I read tht exact page few hours ago.
going thru the page again. I dont see a list of testers tht i may need example: ammonia tester?

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## DreamerX5521

During the very initial stage, you may need to test ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and make sure you get constant zero reading for ammonia and nitrite before you can add in livestock. The most popular tester (at least in this forum frm what i observed) would be API brand and you can get API freshwater master test kit for less than $60 in most lfs in Sg. 


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## tetrakid

Seasoning a tank need not be complicated or expensive. 
What is needed is the patience to wait and wait... for many weeks.

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## DreamerX5521

Agreed with you. Doing water test is mainly to know when the tank is fully cycled and then put in livestock at the right time. But if time and patience is not an concern, then just wait for 1 month+ (i presume TS is using amazonia soil) for the new tank to fully cycled. Of course the duration also depends a lot on others factors like using old biomedia frm matured tank, water change frequency, etc.


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## exo

ok. so it's safe to say tht the API kit ia all I need to tell me when the tank is ready to accept livestock. 
yeah most likely will go with amazonia and new caniater filter (mechnical and active carborn) to start yhe tank. also intend to kick start the ammonia cycle with fish food flakes. 


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## DreamerX5521

The API master kit is the basic test kit. You can add kh&gh tester if you are trying to keep sensitive shrimp or if you want to know these parameters too even it is not for shrimp tank.
You may not need to add ammonia source as amazonia soil (new soil) will release ammonia to the water column too.



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## exo

so API master kit it will be...
Now I need to hunt for hardware, with so many choices available, I can't decide on it, maybe u guys with experience can give me a better insight on these. will be setting up a 2ft tank mainly consisting of carpeting plants and maybe hairgrass, livestock will be the cardinal and neon tetras and maybe some shrimps later on.

Substrate: can I mix soil from 2 diff brands to save on cost? 

Canister filter: Ehiem, fluva, atman, shiruba, up aqua.. which of these would be a wiser choice in the long run? 

I did note tht the continental brands has lower power consumption., apart from tht what else should I be looking at? any recommendations?

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## DreamerX5521

Technically for short answer is yes for mixing soil with different brands. But many will suggest to go with amazonia soil for an easier life to begin with for beginner, especially aqua planting has a steep learning curve and there are many other things need to be experienced and learnt frm it. Once you gain the knowledge, you can try many other soils or even diy them with top soil and clays. 
As for the canister, the famous brand will be eheim, due to it is cost effective and you can almost find every single spare part locally (if not the world).


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## exo

anyone can share if eheim experience 250 (2424) is worth buying?

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## kermit13sg

> so API master kit it will be...
> Now I need to hunt for hardware, with so many choices available, I can't decide on it, maybe u guys with experience can give me a better insight on these. will be setting up a 2ft tank mainly consisting of carpeting plants and maybe hairgrass, livestock will be the cardinal and neon tetras and maybe some shrimps later on.
> 
> Substrate: can I mix soil from 2 diff brands to save on cost? 
> 
> Canister filter: Ehiem, fluva, atman, shiruba, up aqua.. which of these would be a wiser choice in the long run? 
> 
> I did note tht the continental brands has lower power consumption., apart from tht what else should I be looking at? any recommendations?


My 2 cents on this, do not be penny wise pounds foolish. I have gone through what you are about to go through now. At the moment when you are about to consolidate your setup, it may seem pricey to get all the 'good' stuff like ADA soil, Eheim filter, etc etc. But if you compromise on quality, not only you might end up changing equipment, which is easy but to change your tank soil and such will be a real pain. If you are into this for long and deep, then invest that little more. Like i say, my 2 cents, different folks different strokes.

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## exo

> My 2 cents on this, do not be penny wise pounds foolish. I have gone through what you are about to go through now. At the moment when you are about to consolidate your setup, it may seem pricey to get all the 'good' stuff like ADA soil, Eheim filter, etc etc. But if you compromise on quality, not only you might end up changing equipment, which is easy but to change your tank soil and such will be a real pain. If you are into this for long and deep, then invest that little more. Like i say, my 2 cents, different folks different strokes.


i know what u mean, thts why my sights for canister filter have been shifting up the price list to german made...lol...

my choice of soil will be the popular ADA amazonia so was thinking of mixing 2 brands of soil to lower cost as I may need more then 9kg of soil..anymore 2cents to spare?

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## DreamerX5521

if you are not in hurry, i suggest you can get 1 pack of 9L soil first and it may be sufficient for you to create iwagumi style. alternatively, you can use stone/rocks and place them underneath the soil so that you can 'stack' up the soil and save some of it. Then if really not enough soil, you can get another pack of soil as the last resort of solution.

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## exo

which of these will be a bettwr choice eheim experience 250 (2424) or classic 250 (2113)
also wondering if the classic has no media basket.. means we have to use "tea bag" to hold it into seperate section?

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## WingCher

I have been using a 2nd hand 2213 which was manufactured in year 2011 and it is still running in my tank. I did not use any mesh bag and I have no issue with separating the media. My bottom layer is 1 litre of PowerHouse ceramic rings, then blue coarse sponge filter, followed by 1.5 litre of seachem matrix and lastly the white fine sponge filter. You may not want to use a bag with fine holes for your bottom layer as it might affect the efficiency as the ceramic rings are there to trap debris from the inflow.

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## exo

hmmm... then I guess the classics are jus as good even without media baskets... but classics dun come with filter medias right? so if ibadd on the cost to the canister... wontbit come up to abt the same?

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## Urban Aquaria

For the Eheim Classic models, you will also need to get a set of double taps to install on the inflow and outflow hoses, that will allow you to adjust the flow rate and also detach them easily for maintenance. They are very useful items, but can add quite abit to the overall cost. So you have to factor those in too. In some cases, the overall cost could add up to the same or more than the Pro series models.

The Pro Experience series models all come with inbuilt taps so you don't need to buy those extra items. They also come with media baskets which makes everything easier to assemble and maintain.

Both model series usually come packaged with all the necessary stock bio-media, so you don't need to buy them separately.

Do note that the Experience 250 has much higher flow rate at 700 l/ph compared to the Classic 2213 at 440 l/ph. Usually for planted tanks you would want to go for higher flow rates to generate better circulation around the tank. Recommended flow rate is around 8x-10x the overall tank water volume.

Plants have no legs or hands so they depend on water flow to bring the essential Co2 and nutrient supplies to them. Higher flow and circulation helps to encourage better plant growth.

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## exo

oh I thought it comes with the double tap. was watching unboxing of 2213 on youtube and all of them has double taps. .. if it doesn't. .. then I guess the 2424/2034 is a better buy then... 

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## exo

Anyone can help ID these rocks? safe for use in tank?

and this

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## Zep

1st 3 pictures look like black lava rocks. They are inert. So it's safe for use. Not too sure about the last 3 though.

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## exo

@Zep thanks for IDing... glad to know the black ones are inert...now to srub off the stubborn mud at some corners. ..
any other sifu can ID these buggers? 

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## exo

so... I have decided on my filter and bought a eheim classic 350 (2215) with default media and an additional pair of 12/16 double taps. would like to ask u guys;
1) do I need to purchase other additional filter media? it already ce with blue, white and black sponge, bio rings and ceramic balls.
2) are there suitable transparent hoses to match glasswares instead of using the green ones provided ?

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## Urban Aquaria

> so... I have decided on my filter and bought a eheim classic 350 (2215) with default media and an additional pair of 12/16 double taps. would like to ask u guys;
> 1) do I need to purchase other additional filter media? it already ce with blue, white and black sponge, bio rings and ceramic balls.
> 2) are there suitable transparent hoses to match glasswares instead of using the green ones provided ?


You can just use the stock eheim bio-media and sponges that come packaged with the filter, those will be sufficient. Though if you have the extra budget and want to get better types of bio-media, just do some research online and shop around for other brands of media which can help improve filtration efficiency.

For transparent filter hoses, you can look at getting those from ADA or Chihiros brand, check at LFS that specialize in aquascaping equipment like Fishy Business, Aquatic Avenue, SunPets etc.

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## exo

Thanks @ Urban Aquaria again for the info

I guess ill stick to whatever is given for the filter media. will replace when its due for change then
Was also wondering if hoses used on out filters can be replaced by common hoses frond in hardware stores?

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## Urban Aquaria

I guess you could try using those common garden hoses sold at hardware stores, just have to find the ones that can fit the canister filters and pipes securely. Make sure the hoses are specified to be usable for supplying potable/drinking water.

Some people try not to use unknown garden hoses though, because of possible issues with chemicals and plasticizers used in those hoses. The leached chemicals might be toxic to some livestock. I guess thats more of a concern to those who are keeping sensitive fishes and shrimps.

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## exo

noted. with thanks

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## exo

Does anyone here who use a
External Co2 reactor attach a double tap at the outflow of unit?
Initially bought 2 sets of taps. After getting down to lay the hoses, felt the a 3rd tap should be there. What you guys think?

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## kermit13sg

I am using the same CO2 reactor and no, it is directly connected to the inflow or outflow, the only place I have taps are just out of the filter, both in and out lines.

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## exo

Hi Kermit, what happens when you need to "service" the reactor? Ever found yourself in such situation?

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## kermit13sg

not yet...as I see it, there is really nothing much to service the reactor...it's not nuclear, i hope.

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## kermit13sg

Anyway, when you shut off all the taps from the filter...the rest can be disconnected without problem; you just lose a bit of residual water in the lines, thats all.

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## jackychun

Hi exo,

Good to see your cabinet setup.  I think double taps is good for servicing purpose since some equipment can be isolated without much messy. I have not used it in my system since I know about it a bit late.  

For the CO2 reactor, I think it would be installed as close to the canister filter as possible so that CO2 can be mixed well in the outflow. 


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## kermit13sg

to me, more joints means more possibility for leak...but that's just me thoughts, you weigh the pros and cons

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## fireblade

Hi,

Actually to save cost and risk of having another tap, you can have the tap after the CO2 reactor... 
means when you off the tap, you can remove the reactor or filter without a problem.

where did you get the rocks from ?Maybe you should do some test before adding them to your tank.. vinegar test , water parameter test etc just to be on the safe side. 
Do the test first before adding to your tank just to minimise the risk of rescape when things start to go well.

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## exo

> Hi exo,
> 
> Good to see your cabinet setup.  I think double taps is good for servicing purpose since some equipment can be isolated without much messy. I have not used it in my system since I know about it a bit late.  
> 
> For the CO2 reactor, I think it would be installed as close to the canister filter as possible so that CO2 can be mixed well in the outflow.


Yeah, last night i installed the 2 taps i have on hand directly before and after in/out flow at canister, as i progressed further upwards towards the tank.. i realized that i could actually use a double tap at the reactor's outflow thus, asking for opinions here. Its been a slow and steady progress for me, it could have been a one-shot-do-it-all thing but having kids around while you try to do setup is not ideal..so will have to progressively do it up alittle a night after they are gone to bed.






> Hi,
> 
> Actually to save cost and risk of having another tap, you can have the tap after the CO2 reactor... 
> means when you off the tap, you can remove the reactor or filter without a problem.
> 
> where did you get the rocks from ?Maybe you should do some test before adding them to your tank.. vinegar test , water parameter test etc just to be on the safe side. 
> Do the test first before adding to your tank just to minimise the risk of rescape when things start to go well.


I did think of tht, but tht would mean i have to bring the reactor along when i wanna wash the canister right?

Got the rocks from Jalan Lekar, these rocks are commonly seen in LFS but cost much more, buy from LFS without sun and rain and mosquito, no risk of rocks falling on your feet. Went there with my eldest son(4years) both of us end up getting sun, rain and mosquito bites. (bought abt 40kg of rocks for $36)
After washing of mud from the grey rocks i did a PH test (tested my own water PH level, and tested the water tht the rock was soaked it) - No diff after 5days. I guess it should be safe since LFS are selling them.





> to me, more joints means more possibility for leak...but that's just me thoughts, you weigh the pros and cons


Yeah i understand what you mean, more parts more chances of failure. now the cons and pro seem to be same weight.. FML.. lol  :Exasperated:

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## fireblade

so when you wash your canister, wash your reactor as well..  :Smile:  else just let the water run out and disconnect the reactor from the canister .

I've been to the rock distributor once and went home with a bag of black lava rocks..  :Smile:  I did not go and choose with the uncle.. 




> I did think of tht, but tht would mean i have to bring the reactor along when i wanna wash the canister right?
> 
> Got the rocks from Jalan Lekar, these rocks are commonly seen in LFS but cost much more, buy from LFS without sun and rain and mosquito, no risk of rocks falling on your feet. Went there with my eldest son(4years) both of us end up getting sun, rain and mosquito bites. (bought abt 40kg of rocks for $36)
> After washing of mud from the grey rocks i did a PH test (tested my own water PH level, and tested the water tht the rock was soaked it) - No diff after 5days. I guess it should be safe since LFS are selling them.

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## exo

Lol.. No need uncle lah. Ask the worker where are the rocks and go hunt..now thinking of smashing the black lava rocks smaller pcs for filler below substrate instead of buying another pack.

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## fireblade

hehe thats a good idea... maybe do it with a chisel?

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## exo

The lava rocks seems to be "soft" feels like it could be smashed apart using a ordinary hammer. Will try after deciding on which rocks to use

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## happydanio123

You should run "stimulation tests" on these rocks by placing them into a bucket of fresh aquarium water and then compare the parameters of the water before and after soaking the rocks in the water for about 3-4 days (Don't want to be fined for breeding mosquitoes). If the parameters like pH, Ammonia, Nitrite or Nitrate change, then these rocks are not safe as they are reactive. However since you have so many rocks, if the parameters change you won't know which one caused it.

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## jackychun

I understand the feeling of working on fish tank and your child is around. I love seeing my kid interested in aquascapeing. I just let her play with the soil substrate the whole day. Hehe. I only can do it freely when she went to sleep. 


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## exo

I let my eldest help me. No.2 did not borther much even when he saw some action going on. No.3... No way...she is a destroyer.

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## exo

I just completed the hardware and house laying setup. Now 1 more crucial pc left.. Lighting...40cm height... Can't find any thing that I like accept for the Chihiros A601. Green element evo looks are too bulky for me not to mention the price... Headache....

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## happydanio123

Hi there! You can do a bucket test by placing the rocks in aquarium water for a few days and testing the parameters before and after before comparing them. If the parameters change, then the rocks are reactive and don't use them.

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## Gregg

With the air bubbles I am sure I see in the rock it looks like an igneous rock, volcanic in origin, to me. If it is heavy, it would be lava rock, if light, cinder. That goes for the top 2 images especially. If it is, it is super safe. I use native cinder, common where I live, to attach my Anubias sp. and java fern to. I may be mistaken. <a href="http://s1049.photobucket.com/user/lv2crp/media/009_zpsnib1az9y.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/s392/lv2crp/009_zpsnib1az9y.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 009_zpsnib1az9y.jpg"/></a>
One of mine with an Anubias tied to it.

Gregg

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## Gregg

That looks like an igneous rock to me. Lava and cinder in my area common. If so it is completely safe unless it has road salt, highway junk, etc., on it. This is an anubias tied to one (if it is).http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/...psnib1az9y.jpg

Gregg

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## exo

Thank you all for your inputs and knowledge..since I tested the rocks(greyish) to have no pH change to water it was soak in, I decided to go with it.

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## exo

Just a update with pics to keep track of tank progress
Attachment 52652

Day 0 - everything completed @0130hrs 27 march 2016 all tank system hardware working well with no leaks.

uploadfromtaptalk1459063930822.jpg

Day 1 - cloudy water from initial start up has subside. Noted Co2 reactor has no more air pocket. Fine bubbles can be seen exciting outflow pipe. Tank water parameter to be tested later.

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## exo

On a side note: Planting HC is harder then I thought.... Hair grass mini was easier though

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## jackychun

Congratulations, exo! Finally the day has come! Enjoy the progress daily! 

Everything looks good! 


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## exo

Haha.. Thanks to u too... Your blog your post and with UA advise along with all the other sifus here was able to make it... Jus not too satisfied with the HCs I planted... Hope they will take root and flourish

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## Realcaster

Looking good  :Smile: ... Should zoom in a bit more  :Grin:

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## exo

Wife saying that I dun look at her anymore... So faster grab a pic and go

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## kermit13sg

put wife inside tank, best of both worlds.

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## exo

> put wife inside tank, best of both worlds.


Lol... Good one.

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## exo

I was observing my HCs yesterday and I saw this white wispy looking thing. Can anyone tell me what this is. For fear of algae. I had removed it muploadfromtaptalk1459132389622.jpganually.

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## exo

> Looking good ... Should zoom in a bit more


uploadfromtaptalk1459132437291.jpguploadfromtaptalk1459132449820.jpguploadfromtaptalk1459132487703.jpguploadfromtaptalk1459132505658.jpg

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## Urban Aquaria

> I was observing my HCs yesterday and I saw this white wispy looking thing. Can anyone tell me what this is. For fear of algae. I had removed it manually. uploadfromtaptalk1459132389622.jpg


Yeah, those are a form of filamentous algae or diatoms, you can physically remove them. When your tank is cycled, the introduction of algae eaters like shrimps will help to clear it up too.

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## exo

Thank you UA for the confirmation. Unfortunately I'll have to remove it manually, can't use livestocks as they would probably mess up the HCs that has yet to take root.anyway tank isn't cycled so it's a no go. I did do a anti snail on it but not anti algae quarantine. The price for being impatient.

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## exo

@Urban Aquaria is it too late to use the anti algae in my tank now? I'm thinking to dose it one time to kill them all

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## Urban Aquaria

> @Urban Aquaria is it too late to use the anti algae in my tank now? I'm thinking to dose it one time to kill them all


Sure, you can dose anti-algae treatment during this period too. Just follow the bottle recommended dosages.

After you complete the treatment, do a series of large water changes and perhaps also add a pack of good quality activated carbon into the filter to remove the chemicals. Some livestock may be sensitive to accumulated levels of the chemicals so its better to clear it out beforehand.

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## exo

Then again... Would your original advise(finish tank cycle) and using livestock to clear the algae be better? Just weighing my options here as I do not want to wait till it's to late.. I'm only in day 2 and I see this...

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## exo

Day 2 - 1st water parameters taken. Looks normal to me. Comments?

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## jackychun

> Day 2 - 1st water parameters taken. Looks normal to me. Comments?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk


I think that is normal since Ammonia is higher concentration at the beginning. Did you use any bacteria support?

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## exo

Yes. Bacterlife. 

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## jackychun

I used BacterLife and at the beginning my Nitrite also very high. Now it is zero. But Ammonia is still high. All we need is patient again. Haha.


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## Urban Aquaria

> Then again... Would your original advise(finish tank cycle) and using livestock to clear the algae be better? Just weighing my options here as I do not want to wait till it's to late.. I'm only in day 2 and I see this...


Yeah, thats the usual practice, those algae you see commonly appear in new tanks during the cycling period, but they are also one of the easier algae types to clear because shrimps will consume them quickly... so you could also just let the tank cycle and then add shrimps in to manage it. That works too.

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## exo

Noted with thanks.

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## Realcaster

In my 2 ft low profile tank with HC, during the first 2 weeks, I was over dosing my fertilizer, pumping my Co2 and extreme high lights to get the HC to root down. Algae is bound to set in, so I have was dosing Algae exit. True enough, I was clear of Algae.

After the HC is rooted and carpeting, 3 days before I put in shrimps, I stopped the Algae exit dosing and let the shrimp takeover. In my opnion, your priority is to get the HC rooted and carpet, you need highlight and Fertilzer, without any life stocks you can do that. For me dosing Algae Exit have being effective in keeping algae out. Infact, I found Algae exit to be relatively mild, just 2 days ago, I found brown algae and slight green water, even with shrimps and fishes in it, I dose algae exit and my live stock is ok and green water is gone.

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## exo

> I used BacterLife and at the beginning my Nitrite also very high. Now it is zero. But Ammonia is still high. All we need is patient again. Haha.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm bad at being patient for things like this..lol.. 
Btw, I pm-ed you via tapatalk on this forum regarding the timers, did u see it? Anyway is resolved.

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## jackychun

I didn't see your message. I guess you have the same type of timer as mine? Setting that up just follow the instructions given and it will be fine. 


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## exo

I guess as much. Yeah I followed the instructions and was blured when i saw on off auto... Didn't know which mode to set it at, but figured it out already.

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## exo

U applied active carbon to your tank after you stopped the anti algae?

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## jackychun

> I guess as much. Yeah I followed the instructions and was blured when i saw on off auto... Didn't know which mode to set it at, but figured it out already.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk


Me too, didn't really know what is that at first but that button is very useful. We can use that to turn on/off the light/CO2 at anytime when it is in use/not in use for the timer program. 

Btw, I did not use AlgExit and activated carbon filter for my tank. I think you can plant some fast growing plants to absorb the nutrients and it will overtake it from algae, too. You can remove that plants later if you don't like. Can also download the app "Tropica" for the guidance on the first 90days for reference.  :Smile:

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## exo

oh no.. Just got back from work and saw my grass turning brown...what is going on? Help!

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## Urban Aquaria

Since the hairgrass are still newly planted, its the transition effect... its normal to see some melting in the older/damaged grass blades. Just remove the brown bits as part of clean up.

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## Realcaster

I am curious, was your HC pearling on the very first day you started plant? And it continue to pearl everyday during lights on period? What is your water depth and CO2 bps?

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## Realcaster

> Since the hairgrass are still newly planted, its the transition effect... its normal to see some melting in the older/damaged grass blades. Just remove the brown bits as part of clean up.


UA, I am kinda surprise, my Japan sp hairgrass and normal hairgrass never went true transition stage, HC, MC and other plants do go through it, but does Hairgrass have transition period?

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## Urban Aquaria

> UA, I am kinda surprise, my Japan sp hairgrass and normal hairgrass never went true transition stage, HC, MC and other plants do go through it, but does Hairgrass have transition period?


Sometimes they do, it just depends on the health and condition of the hairgrass (and also whether they are submersed or emersed versions)... some batches adapt faster than others. Usually its the parts that got damaged during planting that tend to melt.

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## exo

@realcaster depth of tank is 40 cm. Probably 35cm after substrate and void at top. Have not seen if my HC pearl during photo period cause I'm not home during that 6 hrs. Com just increase to 4bps today it was 2bps previously.

@Urban Aquaria hopefully it's my fat fingers and unhealthy blasts of grass that's the cause. I'm dosing ferts as per recommendation on package. And light at 6 hrs


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## fireblade

exo, why don't you adjust your timer to the time that you are at home? for mine, my lights are on from 6pm to 12 midnight.. for that I can see my tank as and when I am at home and no need to switch on the room light..  :Smile:

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## exo

> exo, why don't you adjust your timer to the time that you are at home? for mine, my lights are on from 6pm to 12 midnight.. for that I can see my tank as and when I am at home and no need to switch on the room light..


Because I want to use the ambient light to simulate sunrise and sunset. led will simulate the brightest parts of day from 1030 - 1630(will extend hours in time to come) usually when I'm home I'll on the tank lights at lowest possible setting(dimmable) if needed. Now tank still cycling plants still growing nothing much to see also. Ill switch the timing to something like yours at a later stage  

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## exo

Hairgrass in my tank are turning yellow and it seems to be getting worst. Most of them are loosing the green and turning yellow. Cuba on the other hand seems to be fine
I noticed green algae forming on my rocks too.


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## jackychun

Hi exo,

I saw your tank has only MC and hairgrass (Eleocharis sp mini?). According to Tropica advice, at the beginning period, it would be better if you plant some fast growing plants so that excessive nutrient can be absorb by them. MC and Hairgrass are foreground plants that might grow slowly and cannot use all the nutrient provided at the beginning and algae might use them instead.

Did you get hairgrass from Tropica too?


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## exo

Yeah its Eleocharis so mini from tropics. The HC Cuba are those normal ones commonly seen in LFS sold in transparent packing. Like what you said I think I might have fertilizer overdose, so I did a 50% water change yesterday night and dose excel only. Hopefully the plants can make it

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## exo

On a side note the cuba are creeping roots already. Noticed the the roots had held on to the patch of substrate that it is on. Some other roots seem to be floating and feeding from water column

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## exo

Finally I see some glimmer of hope. HC Cuba r pearling!uploadfromtaptalk1459421694051.jpg
But the HGs seem to be deteriorating further... It doesn't stand up anymore..

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## Realcaster

Congrates, things are looking good  :Roll Eyes:

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## jackychun

Hi exo, great to see the plants pearling! 

You might want to buy another tub of hairgrass and try to plant again.

Last time I just split the hairgrass by hands and use the tweezers to plant it in the soil. Just be gentle with the roots, I believe it would be fine. 

Cheers!




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## exo

I've been observing for the last 2 days. Hairgrass seems to be spawning new runners. Think they should be fine for now. How ever I'll probably be considering getting new HC Cuba from tropica. 

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## exo

Can someone confirm my Co2 is running out soon? I noticed it's less then 5 bar now. If so how much longer do I have? Running at 8bps currently

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## Urban Aquaria

For 2 gauge regulators, once the left gauge (which shows total pressure) starts to gradully drop below 900 PSI, the remaining Co2 will be in gas form (not liquid form anymore) so usually left only around 10-20% volume. 

How much longer it can last will also depend on your Co2 cylinder volume and the number of hours you inject the Co2... since your 8bps injection rate is high, it would probably empty quite soon, so its a good idea to arrange to get the cylinder refilled within the next few days or week.

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## exo

Thanks UA, if I'm not wrong you reside in the West. How do you have yours refilled? 1 to 1 with lfs or immd top ups? Coz I live in jurong and I'm considering bioplast at bendemeer or chemgas at tuas. I dun wanna do 1 to 1 with lfs.

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## Urban Aquaria

> Thanks UA, if I'm not wrong you reside in the West. How do you have yours refilled? 1 to 1 with lfs or immd top ups? Coz I live in jurong and I'm considering bioplast at bendemeer or chemgas at tuas. I dun wanna do 1 to 1 with lfs.


Yeah, i get my Co2 cylinders refilled at Bioplast. I prefer on-the-spot refills rather than exchange too... not keen on swapping my clean cylinders with old scratched up cylinders.  :Grin:

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## exo

> Yeah, i get my Co2 cylinders refilled at Bioplast. I prefer on-the-spot refills rather than exchange too... not keen on swapping my clean cylinders with old scratched up cylinders.


Right on! That's my concern too... Call is OCD... But no way I'll take other tank then my own. So bioplast still does it...was worried that something might have changed as info I could find was dated.

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## Realcaster

All my tanks are refilled at bioplast too. The uncle is nice, he also check for leaks. If you are worried, you can bring your regulator there too, he can help to check and make sure there are no leaks too  :Smile:

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## exo

Glad to hear many supporters of bioplast here.... Now I know where to go for sure

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## kermit13sg

Thumbs up for Bioplast!

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## exo

uploadfromtaptalk1460038485138.jpguploadfromtaptalk1460038507934.jpguploadfromtaptalk1460038529716.jpguploadfromtaptalk1460038579972.jpguploadfromtaptalk1460038590536.jpg

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## exo

uploadfromtaptalk1460038682298.jpguploadfromtaptalk1460038694950.jpg

1st photo is the 1st test done on water at day 3 last pic shows parameters taken less then 15mins ago.

Ph has been down to 6.0
Ammonia looks like 0 ppm
Nitrate is to keying and maintaining for 2 nights at 5.0ppm
Nitrate looks to be at 30ppm range

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## jackychun

Looks like a good cycling progress is on going. Keep changing water every 2 days bro. 


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## exo

correct me if im wrong...my tanks's ammonia is gone and nitrite is up along with rising nitrate.. 
So now i have to wait for the nitrite to go down further and nitrate to rise further?
and i should not see any more ammonia spike right?

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## jackychun

> correct me if im wrong...my tanks's ammonia is gone and nitrite is up along with rising nitrate.. 
> So now i have to wait for the nitrite to go down further and nitrate to rise further?
> and i should not see any more ammonia spike right?


In fact, as per my understanding, Ammonia still there, but beneficial bacterial that convert Ammonia to Nitrite has developed well and do good job to transfer most of Ammonia (NH3) to Nitrite (NO2). 
On the other hand, beneficial that convert Nitrite (NO2) to Nitrate (NO3) is now developing and not yet has ability to transfer all Nitrite (NO2) to Nitrate (NO3). It might take some more time.

For now, you need to change water every 2-3 days to remove excessive Nitrate (NO3) from the water. 

Hope everything will be going well!  :Smile:

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## exo

Ok water change tomolo

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## exo

Have done 2 water changes since my last post. Last water change was yesterday. Before water change nitrite was measured at 5.0ppm and 0.25 after. Tonight I did a full test and this is what I've got. uploadfromtaptalk1460387129874.jpg
Can anyone verify if my cycle is in it's correct path? Cause it just looks weird to me..

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## Urban Aquaria

Your tank parameters will naturally be fluctuating up and down during the cycling stage, every tank setup is different so it doesn't necessarily follow a fixed progression or path (ie. like how some people don't even see any nitrite readings throughout their tank's cycling process). Hence you don't need to be worried about the exact movements of those parameters during this period.

What you are basically looking out for in those tests is to spot when ammonia and nitrite eventually maintain at zero levels consistently for a few days, and only nitrates show readings... then its an indication that the cycle is established.

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## exo

Thanks @Urban Aquaria. So I should continue water change every 2 days still? 

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## Urban Aquaria

> Thanks @Urban Aquaria. So I should continue water change every 2 days still?


Since there is no livestock in the tank and if algae is minimal, its not so necessary to do that many water changes at this stage. Just leave it to finish the cycle and once its done, then do a large water change before introducing in livestock.

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## exo

Noted

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## exo

Readings taken tonight
uploadfromtaptalk1460478449995.jpg
All parameters at 0 ppm

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## exo

uploadfromtaptalk1460650514666.jpguploadfromtaptalk1460650532634.jpg
Anyone able to help me ID these plants?

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## fireblade

the plant you have on the left is the flower of Cyperus...
a long antenna will grow and then after that I don't know what will happen already .. but it is a huge plant, saw lots of them at the pond in botanic garden.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyperus_haspan

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## exo

Thanks @fireblade for the ID.

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## exo

A little update on my tank. All water parameter showed the tank was cycled for 2 nights. Apart from my incompetence to carpet the HC all else was doing fine. Mini Hairgrass came back to life, growing new runners etc...so I decided to stay stocking the tank. uploadfromtaptalk1460688739851.jpguploadfromtaptalk1460688862111.jpguploadfromtaptalk1460688884688.jpg
Currently stocked with Yamatos C.tetras and If I. Comments on my tetra coloration?

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## Realcaster

The Cardinal tetra coloration looks good. Where did you get them

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## exo

@realcaster - from C328 florist
Bro I sent you a msg on tapatalk, didn't see it?

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## Realcaster

i am not on Tapatalk and dont know how to use it  :Embarassed:

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## exo

Oh ok , my bad..

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## fireblade

looks like your plants are setting in well... the long grass in the middle really distract the view, maybe move all of them to the left side?



> A little update on my tank. All water parameter showed the tank was cycled for 2 nights. Apart from my incompetence to carpet the HC all else was doing fine. Mini Hairgrass came back to life, growing new runners etc...so I decided to stay stocking the tank. uploadfromtaptalk1460688739851.jpguploadfromtaptalk1460688862111.jpguploadfromtaptalk1460688884688.jpg
> Currently stocked with Yamatos C.tetras and If I. Comments on my tetra coloration?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

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## exo

Yeah after sometime looked about weird to me also... Well shift it some where else.. Anyway wanna ask you guys. Is it ok to add a layer of reef sand at the front middle? I'm gonna scrap plans for HC in the said area and make a beach for shrimps. Possible?

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## Realcaster

> @realcaster - from C328 florist
> Bro I sent you a msg on tapatalk, didn't see it?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk


just went down to Y618 during lunch time. Saw that they are selling wild caught Cardinal Tetra. The coloration is better than those Seaview farm bred. However, there are still difference from what GC have. Somehow I find those Cardinal from GC have wider body and color intensity is still better. Could it be a different strain?... Hmmm

Anyone with experience on Cardinal Tetra can comment?

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## Urban Aquaria

I keep a mix of farm bred and wild caught cardinal tetras bought from various LFS over the years, and from my experience, their initial coloration mainly depends alot on the LFS retail tank conditions and lighting.

Those kept in barebottom tanks with bright lights tend to look washed out, while those kept in dark soil based tanks with dim lights tend to look nicer. The overall condition of the fishes also depends on whether the LFS took care and fed them well over a period of time vs just newly added into the tank and still in stressed condition.

Do note that female cardinal tetras tend to be alot larger and plumper, while male cardinal tetras tend to be smaller and slimmer. So if you see mainly small and slim ones in an LFS tank, then chances are most of the plump females have already been scooped up by other buyers.

Anyways, i find that after a few days in the same tank with good conditions and food, both tank bred and wild caught cardinal tetras usually end up showing the same solid bright red and blue coloration, can't tell the difference anymore. 

So based on my experience, seems it doesn't really make a big difference where their source is from, its the eventual tank conditions they are kept in which affect their long term coloration.

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## Realcaster

Thank you UA, for your insight. So it seems like it very much depends on the skill of the keeper  :Smile:

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## exo

Is adding a layer of reef sand(middle front area only) possible at this point in time? I'm not too concern abt it getting mixed up with the soil but rather will it have any impact on the plants livestock and water.

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## Realcaster

Just wash the sand properly before you pour in and do it slowly. GC have many tanks that just have a small layer of sand In the fore ground to add texture to the tank layout

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## exo

Thanks bro... Any idea why to get reef sand or similar textured sand/ gravel prefer West side. Haven't seen it at C328 though...

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## exo

Some live stock updates
uploadfromtaptalk1460910562486.jpg
Lazing otos in pain view.... Gonna fire then soon if they still dun clean the walls..uploadfromtaptalk1460910644320.jpg

Fire red shrimps grazing
uploadfromtaptalk1460910740097.jpg
Cardinal tetras still currently not schooling well yet probably establishing hierarchy....

Yamatos are hardworking and doing well
Rili shrimps all hiding.. No where to be seen once added to tank..

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## fireblade

if you want to add sand, try this method...
I have not try it though







> Is adding a layer of reef sand(middle front area only) possible at this point in time? I'm not too concern abt it getting mixed up with the soil but rather will it have any impact on the plants livestock and water.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

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## exo

Thanks @fireblade. That looks like a very good idea. All the fine particles from the sand which clouds the water are trapped within the bottle..

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## exo

I just bought some plants which are tied to mesh.. do I need to remove the plants from mesh before planting or can I cut the mesh with plants on it and plant it in soil? I dunno what's the name of plant but it's not moss or ferns... it has straight thin stalks with leafs growing at each interval.. has roots...

@Urban Aquaria @Realcaster @Jackchung @anyone

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## Realcaster

It very much depends on what plant is it. If it is a stem plant you can plant it directly into the substrate. If it's a plant with rhizome you might want to leave it on the mesh or transplant it to lava rocks or driftwood. And the rhizome must be above substrate.

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## jackychun

Do you have any photo bro? It would be better to ID it with photo. 


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## exo

> Do you have any photo bro? It would be better to ID it with photo. 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


uploadfromtaptalk1461229957286.jpguploadfromtaptalk1461229978565.jpguploadfromtaptalk1461229994044.jpg
This is the one. . Any idea? I see fishing lines going round the entire mesh.

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## jackychun

It looks like stems plants for me. Then you can carefully detach it from the mesh and plant accordingly. But can wait for other sifus recommendation better. Haha. 


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## fireblade

don't cut the mesh.. once cut everything will fall apart.

not sure if it is Bacopa do give it a thorough wash before putting in your tank.
my guess is you can put the whole mesh in your tank, then let it grow taller then trim and plant them after that.

you can also remove from the mesh and plant individually, but that defeat the purpose of getting the plants with mesh.

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## exo

Thanks Jacky and fireblade..
Yes I quarantine plants before I put them in the tank. Minimally anti snail treatment is done 

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## Urban Aquaria

Yeah, it depends on how you want to use those plants... if you have plans to arrange them in a certain way as background plants, then just untie the stems (remember to do quarantine and pre-treatment on them first) and then plant the individual stems like you normally would with stem plants bought in pots.

You could also just place the mesh with the plants in your tank, though it would look abit artificial with the mesh exposed, and even if buried under the soil the shape of the clump will be rectangular looking, and after some time when the plants grow out and you need to trim the healthy tops and uproot the rotting bottoms, then it can become a problem with all of them attached to a single mesh. So there are some considerations there.

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## Realcaster

Yes, looks like Rotala green or some other stem plant. They are better planted directly into the substrate. Don't have to untied, just cut off the top portion and replant them. Normally when I buy a pot of stem plant, I just cut above the pot and throw the pot away. :Laughing:

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## exo

Thanks all for the input... plant is in snail qurauntine now

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## exo

Jus to check, do you guys use a check valve between bubble counter and inlet to reactor?uploadfromtaptalk1461385340375.jpg

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## Urban Aquaria

For my Co2 systems, i always put a check valve in between the reactor and bubble counter, this is mainly so that the dirty water from the aquarium doesn't back flow (when the Co2 solenoid is off) and enter the bubble counter, mixing with the clean distilled water inside it. It helps to prevent algae growing inside the bubble counter.

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## Realcaster

The bubble counter you have already have a check valve built in. You don't need another one. Adding another check valve doesn't make sense too because if there are back flow of water, the water from your bubble counter will leak in first  :Smile: 

UA is right about the tank water getting into the bubble counter, for me, I am already using tank water in the bubble counter  :Razz:  so far no algae problem.

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## jackychun

I also didn't use the check valve after bubble counter and before reactor cause I didn't know what would it do during my setup time. So I thought the built-in check valve in the bubble counter is good enough.  Now I am lazy to install it since everything setup. So far no algae inside that too. 


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## exo

I jus damaged 2 reactor... Damm. It...broke at the co2 inlet...

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## Realcaster

Yes, it sucks, previously, I broke one of mine too. If you think you want to sell the 2 propeller inside, please let me know.

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## Realcaster

This is how I salvage mine. 

image.jpg

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## exo

My screw thread broke clean... noting to hold on to

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## jackychun

One of the reasons I do not wanna take out to put check valve is it is too fragile and easy to be broken. 

Realcaster-DYI King!


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## Urban Aquaria

Don't worry, your tank setups are still new... soon will have algae and mulm slowly accumulate inside all the connected parts, just like the pipes and hoses.  :Grin: 

Its a minor issue though, doesn't really affect the bubble counter operation, just another extra item to take apart and clean during filter maintenance.

As for avoiding stress breakage on the reactor input port, just install a push-in connector along the Co2 line (similar to the white one that Realcaster uses in his photo). Those connectors will make it easy to disconnect and reconnect the Co2 line without risk of breaking the input port.

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## jackychun

Yup! Good idea to have that connector along the CO2 line. Where do you buy that, Realcaster? I will cut and install that instead of pulling the hose out of CO2 reactor in the coming cleaning time. Honestly, I wish I can just leave the filter alone without cleaning, just afraid things will be up side down after cleaning. 


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## Realcaster

The idea of the connector is from UA. Very good advise, I have one for all my co2 outlets. After that no more casualty  :Grin: .

I got that connector from Y618, $1 each, cheap and filmsy looking but it actually works without leaking even when I connect it to those high pressure atomizer. :Smile:

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## exo

Gona get the then... hope C328 has them

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## exo

> Yes, it sucks, previously, I broke one of mine too. If you think you want to sell the 2 propeller inside, please let me know.


Bro.. when u want the propeller? Gona clean up everything and use the bottom half as my pincers/tools holder. 

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## exo

Went back to the shop and got a replacement with no question asked.. apparently the shop didn't know that it would break so easily... told the boss should feed back to the distributor.... jus finished reconnecting back everything from emergency state shag...

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## exo

Not knowing what I bought sometime back.. jus found out that it's name is Rotala wallichii, nice maroon hue at the tips.. intrestingly the leaves will close up at night and open for light during the day

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## jackychun

That is a fast growing plants, I guess. Looks like a very healthy plants. I like the purple maroon hue at the tips!!  :Smile:

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## exo

My tank has been consistently showing Nitrate at 10ppm to 20ppm even after WC (25%)is that normal?
Readings were taken just before and immediately after WC.

Algae is constantly growing on rocks and walls but kept in check by clean up crew (no cloured or hair algae). Is there something I must or must not do?



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## Realcaster

I recently added a small UV to my 2ft low profile tank. Very effective. And the most significant change is when I add phosphate .

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## jackychun

> My tank has been consistently showing Nitrate at 10ppm to 20ppm even after WC (25%)is that normal?
> Readings were taken just before and immediately after WC.
> 
> Algae is constantly growing on rocks and walls but kept in check by clean up crew (no cloured or hair algae). Is there something I must or must not do?
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk


I think Nitrate Level is around 10-20ppm is normal. It is the same as my tank. That is good for the plants to take and we do not have to dose N anyway. 

For the algae, if your cleaning crew can handle it then just let it be. They need to have work to do right?

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## exo

Thanks for the info. Glad to hear is normal as I was getting worried that I'm doing some thing wrong which cause the persistent nitrate lvl even after WC 

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## jackychun

> Thanks for the info. Glad to hear is normal as I was getting worried that I'm doing some thing wrong which cause the persistent nitrate lvl even after WC 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk


Ya bro. As long as you can see the fishes and shrimps are happy inside the tank, no sight of stress, I think that would be alright.

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## Urban Aquaria

Note that 25% water change only removes 25% of anything. So if you initially measure nitrates at 20ppm, after 25% water change it'll just drop to 15ppm... still within the 10-20ppm range, hence the subsequent test results will still be orangy, thats why there isn't much noticeable change in color.

If you want to see a more significant drop in nitrate level after a water change, then have to do much larger water change amounts, like 50% or 75%.  :Very Happy:

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## exo

Thanks UA. Was just thinking to keep it as close to 0ppm as much as possible... not gona do huge water change. If the tank is alright.. I'm alright..
Now thinking how to rescape to a sand bank at front without draining and removing livestock...

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## Urban Aquaria

Well, 0ppm nitrates is good for fish-only or shrimp-only tanks... but for planted tanks you would usually want to maintain 10-20ppm of nitrates as a constant source of nutrients, otherwise if it bottoms out your plants will start becoming stunted and deteriorate due to nitrogen deficiency, then you'll have to trim all the dead leaves, dose more ferts and then wait for the plants to recover again.

To create a sand bank, just switch off the filter, slowly remove the plants in front, then slot a plastic sheet as barrier into the soil (it will stay there to create a retaining wall separating the soil and sand). Use a long hose to slowly siphon out the soil in front, then refill the front area with a thin layer of sand. If you do the process slowly, it should not disrupt the tank environment too much.

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## exo

Thanks UA... wat is there that you do not know. ..lol

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## exo

@Urban Aquaria 
Wouldn't the retaining wall collapse once the soil is removed at the front?


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## Urban Aquaria

> @Urban Aquaria 
> Wouldn't the retaining wall collapse once the soil is removed at the front?


Yeah... thats the tricky bit. So far i've only done it in a tank with shallow soil depth so the plastic barrier was able to hold up until i added in the sand, but if your soil depth is high, maybe have to try putting in some temporary rocks to line it as extra support?

Perhaps those in the forum with civil engineering or landscaping expertise can chip in to give some pro advice.  :Very Happy:

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## Realcaster

I made barrier/walls from stainless steel mesh. You can buy stainless steel mesh of the various grit size at kelantan lane and very cheaply. Just buy 1 feet and it is 1.2 meter wide. Cut, bent or form to the shape you want and have it inserted into the substrate. Then you can start removing the substrate you don't want and the wall will not collapse. Subsequently pour in the sand. You need to buy a pair of stainless steel cutter that is less than $5 to cut the stainless steel mesh. I will whatsapp you the details.

its not good for me to post the address here, because nobody will buy stainless steel mesh from LFS anymore  :Razz:

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## exo

Something I just observed while tank watching.. plant in photosynthesis with constant stream of o2 bubbles produced from the leaf
https://youtu.be/k3KY9FADFjo


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## aquaticlover

> Something I just observed while tank watching.. plant in photosynthesis with constant stream of o2 bubbles produced from the leaf
> https://youtu.be/k3KY9FADFjo
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk


this was due to a cut or break on the leaf or stem.

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## exo

Really? OK. Learnt something new today... so it's like a broken pipe.. 

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## jackychun

> Something I just observed while tank watching.. plant in photosynthesis with constant stream of o2 bubbles produced from the leaf
> https://youtu.be/k3KY9FADFjo
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk


Your tank looks good and healthy bro! That is good feeling seeing "pearling" from plants. And I saw Rummynose, too!

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## jackychun

> Really? OK. Learnt something new today... so it's like a broken pipe.. 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk


I saw it sometimes at my tank, too. Difficult to define where was the bubbles come from. But it is nice too watch.

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## fatKillies

Nice tank!

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## exo

> Your tank looks good and healthy bro! That is good feeling seeing "pearling" from plants. And I saw Rummynose, too!


After some trial and tribulations costing half my livestock to be wiped out overnight. I think I finally got it right.

The episode of a broken co2 reactor costed me some 10 coloured shrimps, 11 Yamato, 3 cardinals and 5 platinum rummies.

I suspect the catastrophic event happened after a new CO2 reactor was replaced, needle valve on solenoid was left unchecked, resulting in too high concentration of CO2 in the day which was carried forward into the night. With that I suspect the livestock died in their sleep... curiosuly they were all found dead in a single spot.

All water parameters were tested fine. So it was definitely not a qns of water quality.
In any case, since that day till now, there have been no casualties except 2 rummies that was already weak when bought.. died after 2 days in the tank.. no sign of it being sick from LFS to transport to acclimation drip till 1st 48hrs in tank.

Apart from the above bitching.
All plants are growing really well. new shoots, runners and leaves are seen everyday. Algae are kept in check by Team Yamato, glass are done by Team Oto L183. 

 




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## exo

> Nice tank!


Thanks! For a better view...
uploadfromtaptalk1462198877904.jpguploadfromtaptalk1462198892052.jpguploadfromtaptalk1462198914539.jpg

Taken less then 5 min ago

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## jackychun

> After some trial and tribulations costing half my livestock to be wiped out overnight. I think I finally got it right.
> 
> The episode of a broken co2 reactor costed me some 10 coloured shrimps, 11 Yamato, 3 cardinals and 5 platinum rummies.
> 
> I suspect the catastrophic event happened after a new CO2 reactor was replaced, needle valve on solenoid was left unchecked, resulting in too high concentration of CO2 in the day which was carried forward into the night. With that I suspect the livestock died in their sleep... curiosuly they were all found dead in a single spot.
> 
> All water parameters were tested fine. So it was definitely not a qns of water quality.
> In any case, since that day till now, there have been no casualties except 2 rummies that was already weak when bought.. died after 2 days in the tank.. no sign of it being sick from LFS to transport to acclimation drip till 1st 48hrs in tank.
> 
> ...


Oh no. So sad to hear that. But good that things are in order now.

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## exo

And so I have yet another issue with my set up.... uploadfromtaptalk1462412622921.jpg

Back flow from reactor will not clear. Have already tried the following:
Increasing output of CO2 to try flushing the water back - failed
Removing tube on counter side, using a tooth pick to check if the valve would release - yes will release and water will drip out, but once assembled.. the flow of co2 is still stuck.
I'm seducing the either I have a faulty valve or my co2 pressure not enough?

Check valve is of ANS brand.

I know I should try replacing the check valve to isolate the problem but that is the last thing I want to do. The last time I had this issue... I broke 2 reactors and now this happens again... 

Just want to know if any of u here had this problem before and how was it solved once and for all...

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## fireblade

looks at the arrow your connection is correct.
the worry here is maybe the sticker is pasted wrongly, thus the no flow?
have you tried reverse the connection and see if it works?




> And so I have yet another issue with my set up.... uploadfromtaptalk1462412622921.jpg
> 
> Back flow from reactor will not clear. Have already tried the following:
> Increasing output of CO2 to try flushing the water back - failed
> Removing tube on counter side, using a tooth pick to check if the valve would release - yes will release and water will drip out, but once assembled.. the flow of co2 is still stuck.
> I'm seducing the either I have a faulty valve or my co2 pressure not enough?
> 
> Check valve is of ANS brand.
> 
> ...

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## exo

This particular pc of valve has been used since day 1 so the sticker is definitely correct as previously the back flush of water will be pushed back by co2 when the solenoid is on... I'll go try another pc of valve and update

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## exo

Maybe before I do so... I'll try to drain some water from the reactor to release the water pressure and see if it works...

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## Urban Aquaria

Also check all the tube connections from the bubble counter to the check valve (ie. use soapy water test method), if there is Co2 gas leaking from any of the connections, the gas pressure wouldn't build up high enough to overcome the check valve.

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## exo

Yeah jus did that on all connection.. no bubbles...

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## exo

Update: found the problem, a leaky top cover(bubble counter).

On 1st try did not see the soap water bubbling as the leak was facing away from my view. 

Rectification: used PTFE tape on thread grove.

Tested the co2 this morning and it has resumed back to normal

Thanks for the input.

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## tetrakid

> After some trial and tribulations costing half my livestock to be wiped out overnight. I think I finally got it right.
> 
> The episode of a broken co2 reactor costed me some 10 coloured shrimps, 11 Yamato, 3 cardinals and 5 platinum rummies.
> 
> I suspect the catastrophic event happened after a new CO2 reactor was replaced, needle valve on solenoid was left unchecked, resulting in too high concentration of CO2 in the day which was carried forward into the night. With that I suspect the livestock died in their sleep... curiosuly they were all found dead in a single spot...
> ...
> Apart from the above bitching.
> All plants are growing really well. new shoots, runners and leaves are seen everyday. Algae are kept in check by Team Yamato, glass are done by Team Oto L183...


Aqua gardening and fish-keeping are actually two separate hobbies by themselves, in that each requires conflicting needs as the other. A tank full of plants requires plenty of CO2 to flourish, whereas a tank of fish will die when CO2 is predominantly present. What fish and the filter bacteria need is plenty of oxygen. 

Thus, one can easily see that one cannot have one's cake and eat it. That is why aqua gardeners only have a minimal of and only small fish in ther plant tanks. On the other hand, a tank of fish requires abundant oxygen to thrive well. For this reason, plants must be minimised. Also, any CO2 supplementation with reactors is detrimental to fish health. Hobbyists often overlook this important fact.

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