# Other Aquarium Forums > Equipment and Accessories > DIY Projects >  The Making of my DIY Chiller.

## EvolutionZ

heres some explaination to go with some photos!
firstly, i'll post my bar fridge specs. you can use a Freezer. but i would recommand a bar fridge for any tank small den 3ft. a freezer would be a better chioce cause there will be much more space for the tubes to be in.

heres how the inside of the fridge looks like

basically.. the making of the DIY chiller will be. placing 1 tub of water in the bar fridge. with as much hose you can coil inside. for me. i used 10m of eheim replica hose. didnt get the eheim hose as its quite expensive to get 10m. so i got the fake version. 
Drilling is required. for hose connection from your aquarium to your filter. meanwhile. it will pass by the long hose in the cold tub of water. that will cool your tank down.
Drilling in process!

do watch out for coils on the fridge. i tested and run the bar fridge first so that i know where is the coil. when the fridge is running. the side and top of the fridge will get hot.. so drill 2 holes where the coils are not there.
2 holes drilled!

okay. now you should get ready the hose and the tub. like what i said, i used 10m of 16mm hose. filter im using is media fully packed eheim 2213(440l/hr). i noticed my filter flow rate reduced by 1/4 - 1/3.. that dosn't really matters to me.. so for a 10m hose. minimium are a 440l/hr or best get a 700l/hr and above filter for better results.

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## wafer123

great.
have you completed the DIY chiller?
let us have more information so that we can DIY also.

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## EvolutionZ

after drilling. its time to silicon the filtting to the holes.. so that it can hold the hose properly.
for me i DIY-ed the fitting myself. i found 1 hard tube in my storeroom. and also pushed 2 short hose inside so that it works like a stopper. den silicon.

a close up of the fitting
it looks the same from the other side

okay.. finally a day has pass and my silicon should have dried. i connected the hose and placed the tub in.. with 10m of hose in the tub

heres how the hose is connected.

after that. went on to connect my filter to it.. thats when i noticed my filter flow rate is reduced.. everything is now connected and runing.. but i still haven on my fridge yet. waiting for tomorrow morning so that i can observe my temperature closely.. just to play safe for my CRS tank..

Thats the end for now. i will post my how many C is my tank after fridge is running.
oh ya anyway. do note that before turning on the fridge. turn off your filter first den you start your fridge. cause your fridge takes shorter time to chill the water in the tub with the hose in.. rather then to chiller the tub of water in the fridge and the whole lot of water in your tank. after the water in the fridge is around mid 10C its time to on your filter again.... 
cheers!

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## EvolutionZ

please do not use PVC hose because you are going to rig the hose up such that the water from your tank passes through it continually. Over time, the hose will contaminate the water in your tank.

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## wafer123

how much u pay for the fridge?

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## EvolutionZ

$0. my uncle gave it to me.. brand new should be around $200.. 2nd hand $80 can find liao..
anyway.. total cost for my project is only about $30.

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## wafer123

$30 can diy a chiller!
I want to diy one also, let us know the result after you have commission. Thanks.

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## EvolutionZ

sure.. the fridge will start running tomorrow

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## jowy_ham

Bro, some suggestions to you :

1. You can put some ice cubes or ice water in the tub to speed up the process of cooling the fridge down.
2. The hose coiled in the tub should be change to a metal type (copper/titanium) so that max heat transfer can be achieve from tank water that is flowing thru it, to the tub of ice/cold water.

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## EvolutionZ

i forget to add that. the reason why i put hose in the tub is because.. water is needed to fill up the tub.. like what jowy ham bro said.. pai seh i forget this important point  :Sad:

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## blackBRUSHalgae

after the water going through the big coil of hose in the fridge and next to the filter canister with the media, and finally up into the tank, your flowrate would probably be at least - 50&#37; of the rated 400L/H, which is rated with no media or hosing.

But do try it out first and see how the temp goes. If I'm right, you probably will be over chilling your tank.

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## EvolutionZ

about the temp... my father this morning went on to start the chiller.. pour water in the tub.. and set thermostat at 2. and guess what... my temp now is 24C with my 2ft fan still on..:eek: 
now i turn off my fan.. set thermostat 1 and put lots of ice cubes iinside the water.. :Very Happy:  im quite happy with the results.. but i still need to observe for a period of time :Very Happy:  

hi BBA, im aiming for 22C in my tank. if it goes down to 22C im gonna shorten the legth of the coil... i might wanna shorten now... seeing my flowrate.. anyway.. my flowrate only reduce by rougly 25&#37;..

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## carlfsk

Hi Evolutionz, can you also help to calculate the electricity cost of running this bar fridge / DIY chiller on a monthly basis?

Thanks.

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## carlfsk

> Bro, some suggestions to you :
> 
> 1. You can put some ice cubes or ice water in the tub to speed up the process of cooling the fridge down.
> 2. The hose coiled in the tub should be change to a metal type (copper/titanium) so that max heat transfer can be achieve from tank water that is flowing thru it, to the tub of ice/cold water.


Hi jowy_ham, where can we find a copper / titanium coil for this purposes?

Do you think it will be a better idea to let the water flow into a reservoir(kept in the bar fridge), chill it within the reservoir, before flowing back to the tank? I know that for Arctica chiller, there is a reservoir within whereby the coil is inside. The tank water will circulate in this reservoir, chilled down by the coil, before returning into the tank. Can this principal works in this bar fridge DIY chiller?

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## EvolutionZ

> Hi Evolutionz, can you also help to calculate the electricity cost of running this bar fridge / DIY chiller on a monthly basis?
> 
> Thanks.


its not easy to calculate.. have to known when it kicks in.. and also when kicks in.. how long it run till it stops.. but i guess monthly bill wont exceed $10 - $20.

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## wafer123

for me I will calculate the max.
by using motor input 95 w and running 24/7
monthly bill = (95 x 24 x 30) WH
convert to KWH and then multiple by power grid unit rate.

Pls highlight if I am wrong as i want to learn also.Thanks.

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## carlfsk

Mine:

Electricity bills = (power consumption of equipment / 1000) * total no. of running hours of equipment * unit rate of electricity costing

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## edmchan

http://www.guarriello.net/chiller.htm 

In Case anyone is interested to see more pics. Not mine though, found it on the net.

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## cairocks

> Hi jowy_ham, where can we find a copper / titanium coil for this purposes?
> 
> Do you think it will be a better idea to let the water flow into a reservoir(kept in the bar fridge), chill it within the reservoir, before flowing back to the tank? I know that for Arctica chiller, there is a reservoir within whereby the coil is inside. The tank water will circulate in this reservoir, chilled down by the coil, before returning into the tank. Can this principal works in this bar fridge DIY chiller?


I think car aircon service centers may have those coils but think it is better to get a new one as old ones may have coolent residue in it and I don't think it is easy to clean out. Another alternative would be to Sim Lim Square to get those coils that computer modders use to water cool their computer. But both choices are not cheap and also I am not sure if the material that made those coils, think mostly copper or aluminum, could cause problem for the fishes in the long run.

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## carlfsk

> I think car aircon service centers may have those coils but think it is better to get a new one as old ones may have coolent residue in it and I don't think it is easy to clean out. Another alternative would be to Sim Lim Square to get those coils that computer modders use to water cool their computer. But both choices are not cheap and also I am not sure if the material that made those coils, think mostly copper or aluminum, could cause problem for the fishes in the long run.


Any comments on my thoughts:

Do you think it will be a better idea to let the water flow into a reservoir(kept in the bar fridge), chill it within the reservoir, before flowing back to the tank? I know that for Arctica chiller, there is a reservoir within whereby the coil is inside. The tank water will circulate in this reservoir, chilled down by the coil, before returning into the tank. Can this principal works in this bar fridge DIY chiller?

If this will work, then we can forget about the coil thingy. Theoretically, it seems to work.

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## EvolutionZ

i have bad news. my temp now is 27C. even though my thermostat is at 5. i am now trying full power..when i open the fridge.. the fridge is not even cold. guess that fridge is too old liao... no cold air inside the fridge at all i can feel..
think i will call this a failure if my temp never go down 23 - 24C even when my thermostat is at full power....
previously it was 23C because of the cold morning.. now is hot.. it went up 27C..

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## PeterGwee

EvolutionZ, try replacing the long coils of tubings with a radiator of some sort which will be a better heat exchanger. 

Eg.

Pic Courtesy of VR-Zone 

Do note the potential risk of copper......

Regards,
Peter Gwee

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## EvolutionZ

i wont risk this type of things in my tank.. cant afford to lose everything if theres copper leak.
the tub of water in the fridge is also 27C same as my tank's temperature
anyway.. base on my father.. he insisted that i should just leave the pipe inside.. without the tub of water.. so i let him do it..
turn the thermostat back to 3 instead of 7 at full power..
i'll see how it goes.

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## ranmasatome

check the gas... may be low..thats why got cooling deficiency.

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## EvolutionZ

how do i check the gas? anyway.. my father turned the thermostat to 7.. full power.. and i feel only little bit of coldness in the tank..

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## KeIgO86

I don't think fridges are meant to be pushed as hard as chillers. Our typical fridges just cools our food inside it till a suitable temperature and then switches off. Insulation ensures atmospheric heat doesn't get to the cold food inside. Running a fridge like a chiller is really almost the same as running the fridge with its door open.

Even if it does work, pushing it that hard will shorten its service life.  :Smile:

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## ranmasatome

You can actually bring the unti to bioplast and ask them to check.

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## blackBRUSHalgae

> I don't think fridges are meant to be pushed as hard as chillers. Our typical fridges just cools our food inside it till a suitable temperature and then switches off. Insulation ensures atmospheric heat doesn't get to the cold food inside. Running a fridge like a chiller is really almost the same as running the fridge with its door open.
> 
> Even if it does work, pushing it that hard will shorten its service life.


There are actually many examples online that already proved that the bar frigde works as a full time chiller  :Smile:

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## EvolutionZ

yea. you guys are right.. maybe if it works.. can put a timer.. like every 3 hours.. let it rest for half an hour..

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## blackghost

can probably bring it to shop that service air-con

top the coolant gas (if this is the correct term) and your chiller will run more efficiently..all refrigeration unit including the home fridge to do this servicing once in awhile.

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## sookf

Great effort EvolutionZ!

My diy chiller, similar to yours, is cooling down my 2ft tank to 23C with thermostat at < 1 (Defrost setting). I believe yours should be able to do so too.

I think your fridge might be out of gas, do send it for a check or get someone to service it.

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## EvolutionZ

wah.. thermostat 1 can chill to 23C.
anyway.. do you guys think warping aluminium foil around the tubing that are outside the fridge helps?
i warped all the tubes outside the fridge.. canister filter tube. tube going in and out of fridge.. all wraped.. will it help to prevent heat lose?
now my thermostat is at 4. water inside the tub is at 23 - 24C. while my tank's water is 25 - 26C.

anyone know if i need to dismendle everything if i ask the service man to come and check the gas?

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## sookf

Have you tested the fridge before you started your diy project? Was it working?

I think wrapping the hose outside the fridge do help but not much especially if your hose are short. I have not done that yet. You should try to use air-con insulation tubing instead of aluminum foil if you want to try. 

Do you see a layer of icy frost forming in the freezer compartment after running it for a few hours? If you don't, I think the fridge really needs a servicing. It is better to at least empty the tub of water in the fridge in case the service man accidentally move the fridge too much and spill it inside the fridge.

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## EvolutionZ

yes, before i start diy-ing. its working. and yes, there is ice forming on the ice making compartment. anyone know rougly how much if i ask the service man to come and top up gas?

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## sookf

If ice formed, it may not be the gas issue. I think the big tub of water and the length of the hose may be too much for the bar fridge to cool. Try putting some ice cubes in the tub and leave the fridge door close and not open it for as long as you can. It takes quite a long time to cool the tank initially. 

As for the charges for toping up gas, I think I read before something like in the range of $20-$40. Anyway, you can call and ask them. If too expansive, you might want to consider getting another 2nd hand fridge.  :Smile: 

Wish you luck!

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## EvolutionZ

> If ice formed, it may not be the gas issue. I think the big tub of water and the length of the hose may be too much for the bar fridge to cool. Try putting some ice cubes in the tub and leave the fridge door close and not open it for as long as you can. It takes quite a long time to cool the tank initially. 
> 
> As for the charges for toping up gas, I think I read before something like in the range of $20-$40. Anyway, you can call and ask them. If too expansive, you might want to consider getting another 2nd hand fridge. 
> 
> Wish you luck!


maybe as time pass by. the frdige will get colder and colder? when i open up and see what temp the water is.. i can feel little coldness in the air only.. 
will it help if i top up the colent gas?
as in after top up of gas.. i set thermostat 1 and it will be able to chill my tank to 23 - 24C?

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## sookf

My personal experience tells me that the temperature you can achieve depends on the fridge. I can get mine to go slightly lower but the compressor will start running non stop. So is like balancing the settings so that you get good temperature for your tank, don't stress the compressor too much and the electrical bill. 

If my shrimps shows that they are doing much better with a chiller, I will be modifying it to improve its efficiency. If not, I will drop the diy project.

So far, the survival rate of my first 2 pregnant CRS was not good even with the 23-24C temperature. Maybe I have something else missing... :Sad:

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## EvolutionZ

bro. what brand of fridge are you using? mine is cornell.. some unkown brand.. how many M of tube do you coil inside?

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## wafer123

i saw a LG one in "Best Den." is about $202 and another one $203 ( think is japanese brand) and there is one less than $200

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## sookf

I am using Samsung. LG is very common, saw many 2nd hand ones when I bought mine. I think they should be the same in terms of performance. Not point getting a new one for diy or experiment.

I am running 4*2m of fine tubings (air line tubing size) in the fridge for the start. I am planning to increase to 6*2m later on if my shrimps are doing well as 4*2m is slowing down the flow rate too much.

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## EvolutionZ

ohh.... i will be getting another 2nd hand samsung bar fridge also.. thanks..

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## larlee

can someone advice where to find 2nd bar fridge?

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## larlee

could it be the tubing is too thick for it to cool in time?

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## sookf

> can someone advice where to find 2nd bar fridge?


You can try ebay or yahoo Singapore. Some neighborhood electrical shops also sells 2nd hand goods... but I think they normally sell at a higher price than you can get from seller direct via the internet.

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## larlee

Does the DIY chiller with this mini fridge produce as much heat as a chiller? I went to check out a chiller, it is very hot behind....i will be cook not the shrimp.....

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## EvolutionZ

for this bar fridge. no hot air was blown out. only both side and top part of the fridge feels hot

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## ranmasatome

i'm considering making one with titanium coils..or aluminium coils...something that conducts heat better...but definitely not copper coils..haha..

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## eddy planer

Titanium coils is going to cost the price of a brand new Resun 450CL or maybe less by 10%.

What concerns me....

All metal materials had gone up by at least 280% for the past 2 years, i once purchase copper coil for $30 but now $114! So titanium coil is 3x more than copper . :Shocked: 

Actually i find DIY chiller is very interesting but will cost more than a brand new Resun 450CL with 1 year warranty. Just plug and go the 450CL chiller work wonder in your CRS tank without so much worry.

If you are fridge engineer or techinican ... you will know and able salvage 2nd hand chiller from scrapeyard, and dismantle the titanium coil, compressor and even thermostats to transform good and cheap chiller but there is no guarantee that will work. Few friends whom i know are specialist in this fields always tell me buy a proper chiller as those who arent trained to design or understand the basic cooling system will burn more pocket holes.

But there is someone has successfully done it ... maybe he can help and guide you thru. Be ready to fork out more your experiment funds. If not just use your experiment funds to buy brand new Resun 250 or 450CL for $280 -$350 respectively ...plug and forget and you see your 2ft -3ft tank will cool in 24 deg C in 10 mins.

hope this will help you.

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