# Other Aquarium Forums > Equipment and Accessories >  Eheim Canister Filter Comparison

## doubleace

Hi Guys

All of you know that Eheim got many model of canister.
Which is better or which do you prefer most? Why?

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## doubleace

Any tank size... Thats why i never indicate the model number.

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## Shadow

I preferred classic because it is simple. My rule of thumb is the simple it is the more reliable.  :Smile:

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## blue33

I preferred classic also, this model has being going on for reallllllly long, no other model can beat this yet.  :Smile:  The only thing people found problem on is lacking priming but there's quick way to do it, and why the design still lack of priming after so many years is because the lesser thing it has the lesser problem it going to face and lesser $ you going to pay and maintenace.  :Smile:

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## doubleace

> I preferred classic also, this model has being going on for reallllllly long, no other model can beat this yet.  The only thing people found problem on is lacking priming but there's quick way to do it, and why the design still lack of priming after so many years is because the lesser thing it has the lesser problem it going to face and lesser $ you going to pay and maintenace.


blue33,
can say that classic is cheaper compare to the rest of the model?

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## blue33

Yes if you compare the same flowrate.  :Smile:  Cheaper alot. Even the spare parts.

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## Shadow

really? I also thought classic is the cheapest model  :Opps:  I can get new 2213 for $80-$90, not sure how much ecco is for the same flowrate

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## doubleace

But how do you compare a pro2 with classic?
Example for a 3ft tank i will use pro2 2028 then compare with classic which model? 2217 or 2260?

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## blue33

Compare using the flowrate(100l/hr difference is ok). If your tank is big, you still need 2 set of filter at each corner to get optimum filter.  :Smile:

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## Laconic

Classic as well for me. Cheap and extremely reliable.

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## doubleace

alright thanks blue33.

seem like most of you choose Classic.

Anymore inputs? Shouldn't be so few using eheim in this forum. More inputs are welcome... :Grin:

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## CK Yeo

Classic: Simple. But no quick release build-in.
Ecco: Common complain is that handle breaks
Pro: I haven't heard much complain on this either.
Pro II: Leak. Always change O-ring
Pro III: Not that widely used yet?

Moral of the story is go for Classic and Pro.

ck

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## doubleace

Howcome everytime i ask lfs uncle which is better in filtration compare classic and pro, they will say pro is better.

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## Shadow

because they have more profit margin for pro  :Laughing:

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## doubleace

Thats why I need some review from bro here then i can decide which to get for my 3ft.  :Grin:

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## johannes

eheim pro 2224, 2226 and 2228

2222 is too small...

reason is:

1, i like the design  :Laughing: 
2, all the pro series have built in double tap valve and tray  :Smug: 
3, pressure side is 12/16  :Smile: 
4, cheaper than pro 2 (everything is the same to me other than priming function)  :Razz: 

johannes

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## johannes

> Thats why I need some review from bro here then i can decide which to get for my 3ft.


classic and pro is the best imho, these 2 series are the only ones i use, currently i am using 4 classic and 5 pro.

anyway these two have the nicest design as well... but in the poll i stated pro as i find that the built in valve is very useful.

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## illumnae

My personal preference is the Pro2. I've used classics and Pro2s, and I find the Pro2 alot more convenient to maintain. Have never tried the Pro though, so I can't make a comparison for that

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## ehlim

I am using the 2028 for my 4ft for the last 2 years. Most happy with performance except it costed more than $20 to replace the broken ceramic-like spindle. Bought the set for $280 but it seems it cost nearly $400 now at LFS.

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## aquarius

> Classic: Simple. But no quick release build-in.
> Ecco: Common complain is that handle breaks
> Pro: I haven't heard much complain on this either.
> *Pro II: Leak. Always change O-ring*
> Pro III: Not that widely used yet?
> 
> Moral of the story is go for Classic and Pro.
> 
> ck


Anybody have any idea why this is so since the shape of the Pro series is the same as the Pro II? I've a Pro 2228 and didn't have much issues with the O-ring.

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## Savant

I am starting to shift towards classic simply because of the cost savings... I wonder if the hassle with maintainence can be sorted out by adding quick release on/off connectors?

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## aquarius

When choosing an Ehiem, do take note of the following when comparing the different models :

1. Wattage for the same flowrate - if i'm not wrong models like Pro 2228 and Pro II 2028 though their flowrates are the same but their wattage is different. The 2028's energy consumption is lower.
2. Amount of media it can hold for the same flowrate - classic 2217 and Pro II 2028 if i'm not wrong have the same flowrate but the Pro II can hold more media and also the energy consumption is lower.
3. Whether they come with bio-media a not. The classic 2217 comes with only the blue colour sponge media which is more for mechanical filteration than biological.

Correct me if i'm wrong, but i noticed that the Pro II and ecco series consumes less electricity as compared to other models with the same flowrate. Better to go for those more energy efficient ones if you're going to have a few filters since they'll be running 24/7.

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## aquarius

> I am starting to shift towards classic simply because of the cost savings... I wonder if the hassle with maintainence can be sorted out by adding quick release on/off connectors?


Yes and in fact you should but they're quite costly.  :Evil:  Not only that they don't come with bio-media so by the time add-up don't know whether worth it a not.

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## Captain Telecredible

> Yes and in fact you should but they're quite costly.  Not only that they don't come with bio-media so by the time add-up don't know whether worth it a not.


Yes, I agree with you that Eheim Classic Series filters does not come with the filter media. Thus might need to consider twice before buying. We can also reuse our old filter media so that we are able to save some money.  :Wink:  

Cheers!

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## doubleace

From the Eheim chart table, I found out the comparation of 2028 & 2228 is about the same.

* Technical data* 2228 
* Aq. size up to approx I* 600 
* Pump output approx l/h* 1050 
* Del. head approx Hmax* *m* 2.0 
* Power consumption W* 20 
* Heater power W* -  
* Canister volume I* 11 
* Filter volume approx l* 7.3 
* Dimensions HxWxD mm* 455x210x210

* Technical data* 2028 
* Aq. size up to approx I* 600 
* Pump output approx l/h* 1050 
* Del. head approx Hmax* *m* 2.0 
* Power consumption W* 20 
* Heater power W* - 
* Canister volume I* 11 
* Filter volume approx l* 7.3 
* Dimensions HxWxD mm* 455x210x210

Where to see the energy consumption?

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## Shadow

Power consumption W 20

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## johannes

> From the Eheim chart table, I found out the comparation of 2028 & 2228 is about the same.
> 
> * Technical data* 2228 
> * Aq. size up to approx I* 600 
> * Pump output approx l/h* 1050 
> * Del. head approx Hmax* *m* 2.0 
> * Power consumption W* 20 
> * Heater power W* - 
> * Canister volume I* 11 
> ...


basically everything else is the same except for 2028, as i mentioned earlier, has

priming function
flow rate indicator
16/22 hose size for both in and out

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## doubleace

yup.. thats the different between this two and also the price.. :Grin:

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## Shadow

it like watching horse race between classic and pro2  :Laughing:

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## illumnae

pity eheim has no classic to fill the gap between the 2217 and the 2260. I think a classic to "compete" with the Pro3 or Pro3e series would hit the sweet spot. I'm finding my 2028 slightly underpowered (hence 2217 will be underpowered too), 2260 overpowered and the pro3/e series too expensive!

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## StanChung

For a 3ft tank, a 2217 or a 2028 PII would be good choices.
A classic is good, the media to me is secondary as some of us want to use our own media unless they can package it cheaply.

Don't know whether you guys know about the new Ecco Pro series. Announced at KL Aquafair, Nov 2008. 
Looks like they increased the flow rate plus a host of other issues.

The new Pro 3e was also announced simultaneously. Can be programmed by your computer. Super cool.

It's not in the shops yet I think.

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## AnA

Actually, I did a measurement for 2028 and the operating wattage is only 9watts. Amazing for such low power consumption.

Click here for the test I did a while ago.

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## Captain Telecredible

Seems like Eheim Professional II 2028 is pretty reliable even-though of the constant problems faced by couple of aquarist which consist of the changing of the O-ring. 9 watts! Its actually running on really low electricity !

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## StanChung

I have two.  :Grin:  Still working fine except for the one gasket change for one of them. Apparently you can use some vaseline to prolong it's lifespan if it begins to leak. I've learnt not to use the primer due to a theory I have-forcing pressure on the primer IMO may have contributed to the gasket failure. The primer is so tough I sometimes use my foot to step on it. User error. Instead, I use the screw on caps on the inflow[free with promotional set] and pour water into it to get it going when I accidentally release the water in the hose. I like the design of the ball valve lock on the hoses because, I don't have to reprime it after maintenance.

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## Shadow

are you talking about vaseline hand lotion that sold at watson or gardian? http://www.vaseline.com/

I've been looking for something like grease for all the join and end up buying eheim grease. The band think is it come in small plastic sachet, thus one time use and no way to keep.

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## StanChung

Hi Robert, should be the same. I remember reading about using Vaseline to protect/protect the gasket it in the manual that comes with the Eheim Ecco Pro filter. I however have misplaced the manual so I can't confirm this.  :Opps:

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## gentle

i was at seaview and saw about 10 different brands of canister filters - non of them worth considering other than eheim?

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## doubleace

gentle,

beside eheim if you think is too expensive. You can check up Atman or Fluval. These 2 are also quite good. :Wink:

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## JadeIceGreen

I am using 2 2028 pro II for my father-in-law's 5 feet tank. So far so good. In fact, one of the 2028 is about 7 years old and it is working as well as the other brand new one.

The thing I like best about the pro II over the classic range is the increased media capacity and the media baskets which makes for easy filter cleaning. The best thing going for the classic range is 2211, which is perfect for nano tanks.

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## doubleace

Alot of bro/sis contributed.. thats great!!! Come on those that have eheim at home share your though on eheim canister models. So that newbie have an idea of what they can choose. :Wink:

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## illumnae

I'm amazed that Eheim ProII 2028 only takes 9w to run. I'm glad I picked this filter to use for my 422

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## doubleace

> I'm amazed that Eheim ProII 2028 only takes 9w to run. I'm glad I picked this filter to use for my 422


9W? though is 20W? Did i see wrongly? :Grin:

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## JadeIceGreen

> 9W? though is 20W? Did i see wrongly?


20w is correct. heh.
http://www.eheimasiapacific.com/prod...lter_pro2.html

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## illumnae

See posts 33 and 34 above in this thread. It apparently runs lower than the rated 20w

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## AnA

Yes, you did not see wrongly. It is 9Watts for ProII 2028 during normal operation. Actually, I just did another measurement to confirm it again. This time, it reads 10 watts. The first measurement was done a few months ago. Maybe, 9Watts reading is after I had cleaned up the filter. Anyway, it should be closed to 9W. Cheers.

There is something which I would like to highlight. Sometime, we could not totally trust what is stated on the box. My brother purchase an Italy's brand power pump for his pond. It stated 100watts on the box but when did a measurement, it was actually 200 watts. 

Once, I even doubted that the tools which I used to measure the wattage may not be very accurate. Thus, I did multiple tests on other items to confirm it and the final result is that the tools is very accurate indeed. Thus, I trusted it.




> 9W? though is 20W? Did i see wrongly?

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## Shadow

does you measurement equipment able to tell you the power factor?

Average "real" power (W) = Apparent power (VA) * Power Factor

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## AnA

Yes, it comes with Power Factor...

I did some readings again. It intermittently showing 9w or 10w with the following power factor.








> does you measurement equipment able to tell you the power factor?
> 
> Average "real" power (W) = Apparent power (VA) * Power Factor

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## doubleace

wow... really that accurate? Where you got this tester? What is the brand?

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## neon

Hi,

To share my experience with eheim for my 6x2x2 tank, I am using 2260 and subsequently changed the pump to 1262, so I guess it can be called 2262 now.

I like this model so much , because of :

a) made of sturdy plastic (slightly elastic like those big rubbermaid dustbin). Unlike any other eheim canister series plastic material which are much harder and easily crack if drop. Try dropping the cover from few feet above ground if you dare. 

b) simple design. Water flows in below and pump out from the top. Basically it has water-in connector (below) for 22mm hose. One dedicated water discharge valve below . The top basically is a cover mounted with an eheim pump. There are few inter-changeable pumps which can be fitted nicely on this cover (1250,1260,1262). It can grow with your requirement (increase flow rate by replacing more powerful pump) , unlike other model.

c) Big volume to house a huge load of media. I can load > 10kg of biohome, 2 layers of bioballs, 3 layers of sponge, a bag of coral chips, and 7-9 pieces of biohouse (dog poo shape).

d) No priming problem. As my cabinet fitted with PVC pipes and ball valves, there will always be some quantity of water remained in the pipes. Once unlock the ball valves and restart my canister , water will always flow.

e) Easier cleaning for media/sponge. Due to the design, I can wash all my media inside the canister. Simply put a tub and place all media into the tub. By controlling the ball valves to control water flow in and rise up, wash the media one by one and discharge dirty water from below (discharge valve). Repeat the same steps for all media. For weekly water change, I can easily wash the 1st layer of sponge without opening up the canister. Water will gush into the canister and discharge out from below, at same time washing out same of the debris from the 1st layer sponge (below) .

f) can be used for outdoor. As the pump is the universal eheim pump which can be used for dry (emerse) or wet (submerse), the whole canister can practically submerse inside water, unlike other model.

Just my 2 cents view of my experience .

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## StanChung

> I am using 2 2028 pro II for my father-in-law's 5 feet tank. So far so good. In fact, one of the 2028 is about 7 years old and it is working as well as the other brand new one.
> 
> The thing I like best about the pro II over the classic range is the increased media capacity and the media baskets which makes for easy filter cleaning. The best thing going for the classic range is 2211, which is perfect for nano tanks.


I second that.  :Smile: 

I'm using 2028 and a 'test' Ecco Pro 2036 for my 5ft. It's doing well.  :Well done:

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## aquarius

> Hi,
> 
> To share my experience with eheim for my 6x2x2 tank, I am using 2260 and subsequently changed the pump to 1262, so I guess it can be called 2262 now.
> 
> I like this model so much , because of :
> 
> a) made of sturdy plastic (slightly elastic like those big rubbermaid dustbin). Unlike any other eheim canister series plastic material which are much harder and easily crack if drop. Try dropping the cover from few feet above ground if you dare. 
> 
> b) simple design. Water flows in below and pump out from the top. Basically it has water-in connector (below) for 22mm hose. One dedicated water discharge valve below . The top basically is a cover mounted with an eheim pump. There are few inter-changeable pumps which can be fitted nicely on this cover (1250,1260,1262). It can grow with your requirement (increase flow rate by replacing more powerful pump) , unlike other model.
> ...


IMO your review of the 2260 is worth more than 2 cents.  :Grin:  Thanks to you i now have a better undrstanding of this filter. I like the 221x series but my only problem with this series is it can't hold as much bio-media as compared to the 202x series.

My vote would have to be the 2228/2226 series cos it's not as complicated as the 202x series which means less replacement for parts and can also hold the same amount of bio-media. Pity they no longer have this series any more.

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## StanChung

I like this feature 


> e) Easier cleaning for media/sponge. Due to the design, I can wash all my media inside the canister. Simply put a tub and place all media into the tub. By controlling the ball valves to control water flow in and rise up, wash the media one by one and discharge dirty water from below (discharge valve). Repeat the same steps for all media. For weekly water change, I can easily wash the 1st layer of sponge without opening up the canister. Water will gush into the canister and discharge out from below, at same time washing out same of the debris from the 1st layer sponge (below) .

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## wasabi8888

Hi Neon

Not sure whether there is 2262 now... is there something like that for smaller tanks? is the the classic series? how do you change the white sponge without opening the cannister?




> Hi,
> 
> To share my experience with eheim for my 6x2x2 tank, I am using 2260 and subsequently changed the pump to 1262, so I guess it can be called 2262 now.
> 
> I like this model so much , because of :
> 
> a) made of sturdy plastic (slightly elastic like those big rubbermaid dustbin). Unlike any other eheim canister series plastic material which are much harder and easily crack if drop. Try dropping the cover from few feet above ground if you dare. 
> 
> b) simple design. Water flows in below and pump out from the top. Basically it has water-in connector (below) for 22mm hose. One dedicated water discharge valve below . The top basically is a cover mounted with an eheim pump. There are few inter-changeable pumps which can be fitted nicely on this cover (1250,1260,1262). It can grow with your requirement (increase flow rate by replacing more powerful pump) , unlike other model.
> ...

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## AnA

I got it from eBay as it was not so easily available locally. Not sure the brand as it is not stated. But, for now, Sim Lim Tower should have something similar but it is not cheap. I find it cheaper to get from ebay.

Do a search on the bay using "Energy Monitor Plug".




> wow... really that accurate? Where you got this tester? What is the brand?

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## neon

> Hi Neon
> 
> Not sure whether there is 2262 now... is there something like that for smaller tanks? is the the classic series? how do you change the white sponge without opening the cannister?


2262 is simply a canister with 1262 pump (3400L/h flowrate). I didn't say changing the white sponge without opening the canister, what I wrote was washing the sponge surface debris as the 1st layer is the sponge and it is located below. Ensure the top water-out ball-valve is shut and the canister discharge ball-valve open, allowing the water-in to gush into the canister with strong water pressure from the 6x2x2 tank on top, the strong flowrate will be created with "washing" effect. 

As my cabinet tank is huge 6x2x2, I purposely designed and placed at the living room and facing the wall of the kitchen toilet. 2 holes were drilled through (2 PVC pipes) this wall and allow water in and out from/to the toilet. Also, the cabinet fitted with PVC pipes designed by me to allow normal filteration in/out the tank to the canister, as well as water discharge/refill to/from toilet , all control with ball valves which I can comfortably do all the cleaning/discharge/refill routines in one single place - the cabinet.

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## newtank

I do not own a Eheim but my next one is going to be one. I defintely like the classic design,as far as water flow is concern, i am just surprised that most cannisters are not made this way, this is probably the only way to ensure no bypass of the media. 

I do not know who copy who, but for all ADA fans, if Mr Amano made his filters' water flow the same way as Eheim, it could not be too wrong. :Laughing:

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## Shadow

I do not own ADA filter (can't affort it  :Razz: ) but from the drowing is look like that. water in from the bottom coming out from the top.

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## JadeIceGreen

Haha, my dream has always been to own an ADA filter.. but they are just too expensive! 

Their smallest model, ES-600 cost S$785 while their largest model, ES-2400EX2 cost S$2872.60. And these are local Japanese prices, factor in the shipping and it will be more expensive.

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## StanChung

I almost bought one. It's rated 100-200V so I think you need a transformer for 230-240V.

Oops, please get back topic or we'll end up dreaming some more and frustrated. LOL.

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## newtank

> I do not own ADA filter (can't affort it ) but from the drowing is look like that. water in from the bottom coming out from the top.


 
Even the lily pipe and eheim's putlet pipe for Ecco series share the same idea.

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## Shadow

what is eheim putlet pipe look a like for ecco?

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## o2bubble

Anyone used a pro3 2080 before for a 4ft tank? How does this compare to 2 x 2028 in terms of actual flow and filtration. I mean do you think there is better or less water current in the tank to circulate properly to reduce dead spots?

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## JadeIceGreen

> Even the lily pipe and eheim's putlet pipe for Ecco series share the same idea.


What is this eheim putlet pipe? I've never heard it before!

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## xiandan

have a classic 2215. but feel like changing it to the ecco series. more environmental friendly? any expert bros out there got any suggestions?  :Huh?:

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## Viper007

> have a classic 2215. but feel like changing it to the ecco series. more environmental friendly? any expert bros out there got any suggestions?


Hi bro, me no expert... but I think it depends on the size of your tank. I have been using Eheim Pro series for years and felt that they are the best. I have actually wanted to change the filter and spend some time reading reviews around the different forums and conclude that Pro are still the best bet in terms of flow rate, easy of maintance and taking out and etc. If my tank was bigger then 2ft I would go for a pro3e.  :Smile:

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## medicineman

Old 2017and still running.

This classic eheim works well over the long haul. Just dont abuse and keep away from sunlight. Sometimes needs spare part.

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## lzardking

Dear all, 

I am a ehiem fanatics and currently running a 2250, 2260, 2080, 2 x 2028s and a 2015 for my tanks. I have concluded that the 2260 and the 2250 is my all time favourite given their large capacity for media. My least favourite will be the pro3 as there is insfficient mechanical filtration. 

Cheers!
Ken

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## neon

> Dear all, 
> 
> I am a ehiem fanatics and currently running a 2250, 2260, 2080, 2 x 2028s and a 2015 for my tanks. I have concluded that the 2260 and the 2250 is my all time favourite given their large capacity for media. My least favourite will be the pro3 as there is insfficient mechanical filtration. 
> 
> Cheers!
> Ken


Welcome to the club. I got 2260 and replaced with 1262 pump, now I think it should be called 2262.

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## newtank

> What is this eheim putlet pipe? I've never heard it before!


it does not look like a lily pipe, but the idea of positioning the out let at the surface of the water is similar to that of a lily pipe. Having said that, I actually saw a plastic lily pipe look-a like in NA, but did not ask if it was from Eheim.

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## o2bubble

i saw that also at na. Its black in color together come black pipe. Not eheim one. But eheim does has one, check their web site  :Smile:

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## lzardking

> Welcome to the club. I got 2260 and replaced with 1262 pump, now I think it should be called 2262.


My 2250 and 2260 have been with me for ages and the 1050 and the 1060 pumps are still doing really fine! I m really impressed by the durability of the product! Furthermore, my 2015 is still going strong! Anyone still using the 201X series here?

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## inque

*have* a leaking Pro 2 Eheim 2026 will change the Big O Ring tommorrow night 

The Priming Feature is completely usless  :Boo: 
press Slowy but the priming mechanism is so weak , 
can't even suck the water up. End up i *have* to use 
a power head to prime the thing.

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## Viper007

> *have* a leaking Pro 2 Eheim 2026 will change the Big O Ring tommorrow night 
> 
> The Priming Feature is completely usless 
> press Slowy but the priming mechanism is so weak , 
> can't even suck the water up. End up i *have* to use 
> a power head to prime the thing.


Actually you do not need to us a pump to prime your filter. Just need to fill the in/out socket to the brime can liao. I have never needed to do any priming at all in the first place just used it once for testing purpose. :Smile: 

I think you need to spend some time understanding how your filter works and the air trap/ escape thingy...  :Smile: 

Problems like yours is not a filter issue, is just you who do not know how to use the filter that's all.  :Smile: 

Btw another piece of advise is to use petroleum jel on it so the wear and tear process is slow down and your filter last longer. :Smile:

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## inque

for me , mine own 2026 use for 7yrs till now never apply gel before. And its never leak .....

Just not to confuse you all i have 2 Eheim 2026. One bought in 2002 and the other leakin one is a gift from a friend reccently.

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## aquarius

> for me , mine own 2026 use for 7yrs till now never apply gel before. And its never leak .....
> 
> Just not to confuse you all i have 2 Eheim 2026. One bought in 2002 and the other leakin one is a gift from a friend reccently.


All new ehiem filters' O-rings are coated with lubricant thats probably why your filter until now got no problem. The lubricant moisturizes the rubber 
o-rings preventing it from prematurely "drying out" and causing the rubber to have fine cracks.

For my new 2228 the o-ring lasted about 8yrs before i had to change it. After i bought a new one, i put some ehiem lubricant on it but unfortunately it didn't last as long as before liao. Maybe the quality is not as good as before. There's a tread quite some time back discussing abt ehiem's quality issues.

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## detritus

> *have* a leaking Pro 2 Eheim 2026 will change the Big O Ring tommorrow night 
> 
> The Priming Feature is completely usless 
> press Slowy but the priming mechanism is so weak , 
> can't even suck the water up. End up i *have* to use 
> a power head to prime the thing.


i don't agree. i am running a 2026 and i find the priming feature very useful for first installation or if you accidentally release all the water in the in-flow pipe hose.

the idea is that u must press all the way down and let it slowly suck the water. if the water doesn't reach cos you have a long hose, just press again and it'll do its work.

i still remember the first time i installed my 2213... spent hours struggling with priming cos i didn't have a powerhead handy. 

its a fantastic filter: quiet, efficient, powerful but my initial WC / filter cleaning experience could only be described as  :Exasperated:  

finally invested in 2 way taps to make sure that the water doesn't drain away during WC. much easier after getting the hang of it.

the 2026 has built in removable taps that assures that the in-flow hose never drains out during cleaning... good "fail safe" design. 

the self-priming feature is not perfect, but its really good for first start and "good to have" scenarios. i greatly appreciate the Pro 2's self priming feature  :Well done:  ...

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## gentle

> the self-priming feature is not perfect, but its really good for first start and "good to have" scenarios. i greatly appreciate the Pro 2's self priming feature  ...


i got a used 2026, and have no problem with priming...and it is totally silent when in use...

however, when i pressed the priming device down, there is a loud "knocking" sound (like the "propeller" hitting against something) - the knocking sound disappears when the device go back up...

is it normal?

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## detritus

> i got a used 2026, and have no problem with priming...and it is totally silent when in use...
> 
> however, when i pressed the priming device down, there is a loud "knocking" sound (like the "propeller" hitting against something) - the knocking sound disappears when the device go back up...
> 
> is it normal?


yup. its normal. 

the 2026 self priming feature is essentially a very stiff spring-powered pump - simple but effective.

u press down, the spring depresses. the "knocking sound" is the spring slowly restoring itself to its original shape  :Smile:

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## Jervis

I like the Ecco the most due to its low power consumption...

Lower power consumption = less heat generated to heat up tank water.

The 5W consumption is absolutely unbeatable!

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## Captain Telecredible

yes i like ecco too. But Ecco is definately insufficent power to run a 4ft tank or bigger. 
I have the primming ''knocking'' sound whenever i prime my filter. Thus i think it is normal. But i think that Eheim filters primming wise, its very hard to prime. i sometimes got to even try and use my whole body weight trying to prime it.

----------


## BFG

Use the Eheim Installation Set 1 if you have priming problem for any canister filter. I install it for all canister filter that I own. Say goodbye to the priming problem for good.

----------


## wynx

> I am using the 2028 for my 4ft for the last 2 years. Most happy with performance except it costed more than $20 to replace the broken ceramic-like spindle. Bought the set for $280 but it seems it cost nearly $400 now at LFS.


The same thing happened to me. That's called the impeller shaft. It cost me 21 bucks to replace. Mine snapped into 2, don't ask me why.

----------


## detritus

> The same thing happened to me. That's called the impeller shaft. It cost me 21 bucks to replace. Mine snapped into 2, don't ask me why.


its actually quite impressive if u think about it... 2 years, impeller shaft broke, but pump motor still working fine and filter continues to work after replacing impeller shaft...  :Well done: 

thats more than can be said for many other brands of filters 

not just canisters, but HOF and OHF, most times, the pump just dies even though everything is seemingly still intact.

----------


## hc rotala

> I preferred classic because it is simple. My rule of thumb is the simple it is the more reliable.





> I preferred classic also, this model has being going on for reallllllly long, no other model can beat this yet.  The only thing people found problem on is lacking priming but there's quick way to do it, and why the design still lack of priming after so many years is because the lesser thing it has the lesser problem it going to face and lesser $ you going to pay and maintenace.


Yes, agreed totally.
Yes, Classic can.

----------


## ts2009

Eheim 2028 cost how much ??

----------


## Ian Lim

I just bought a Classic 2213, so far have owned Pro 2227, 2026, 2028 and Classic 2215 and I must say I am going back to the Classic model some how I feel that the Classic mnodels are very robust even thou it does not have all the nice features e.g. auto priming, for the newer model. My next unit will most probably be a Classic 2217.

----------


## Ian Lim

> its actually quite impressive if u think about it... 2 years, impeller shaft broke, but pump motor still working fine and filter continues to work after replacing impeller shaft... 
> 
> thats more than can be said for many other brands of filters 
> 
> not just canisters, but HOF and OHF, most times, the pump just dies even though everything is seemingly still intact.


Yes, agreed with it, Eheim pump motor really rocks. I have a Pro 2227 that was bought 11 years ago and it is still running although water output is not as strong as before because the impeller was not change at all, I am sure that if I will to replace it with a new impeller it will still able to keep pumping for the next 3-4 years.

----------


## StanChung

Classic will continue to be popular. Eheim should update it with a more efficient motor to consume less electricity like the new Ecco pros.

----------


## leclair

i have 2260, 2026, 2028,2213,2217 all 2nd hand . and still work great . only thing is that i have to get cabinet tanks in future to "hide"them..

----------


## argonmt

i am using eheim 2228. However i've noticed the information given in the Eheim asia webpage (1050L/h 20w) is different from the label (750L/h 25w) on my filter. Does anyone notice it?

----------


## StanChung

I think 2028 is 20W and 2228 is 25W.

----------


## Captain Telecredible

> i have 2260, 2026, 2028,2213,2217 all 2nd hand . and still work great . only thing is that i have to get cabinet tanks in future to "hide"them..


Hmm.. I am currently using 2 Eheim Professional 2028 for my current 4ft tank. I am generally please with its performance. But if you intend to have a cabinet tank, Do not try to place your canister right a the back cause you will have difficulty in primming the filter sometimes I tried to go all the way inside the prime it and sometimes its really tough to prime that i got to use my legs and press it down. But sadly, unable to change the deisng :Knockout: 
Eheim filters are generally more well-known in the aquatic industry thus the money wise its on the higher side. Alternative choices like Hydor and Fluval are also good competitiors of Eheim. So do your homework and choose the most wise filter for your tank. :Smile: 

Cheers,
Kenneth

----------


## Nic73

Check out Ehiem filters here--> http://www.eheimasiapacific.com/prod...er_wetdry.html

----------


## J Chu99

i have been using the 2026 (might have been a 2028 - will recheck tonight!)for my 4ft tank with chiller and it never gave me any problem...since 1998! i do wash out the filter elements with tank water (to save bacteria) abt every 2-3 yrs when i got bored with tank structure and change it.. the 2026 is very convenient to unplug from water flow. JC

----------


## Shiv

Been using 2 x 2080s for more than 2 yrs. Previously opened to check frequently for any development of sludge......now I have not opened it for more than a year. Flow is perfectly fine so dont want to disturb the bacteria colony.

----------


## AquaZinYaw

Just bought eheim 2026 pro2 and paid $380 from KK tampines. Reach home and check email. Petmart offer me promotional price with $280.  :Exasperated:  

Next time will try to buy dry goods from internet. Deliver home as well.  :Evil: 

You guys think 2026 alone can handle 3ft planted tank? I think turn over rate too low?

----------


## StanChung

Should be alright. Just think the media is mite insufficient.

----------


## alex888

anyone has any comments on ecco pro models? was thinking of getting the 2032 model but i would like to hear from the rest of you guys out there  :Grin: . Anyone also knows whats the price region for that model?

----------


## adolfoi

I have 2042, 2010 (My 1st eheim), 2006, 2252, 2228, 2017, 1262 (just got!)

I think I most impressed with:

1. 2042 (hang on) as part of the casing has chipped off at the water flow out area, however the motor is still running strong. Has been working for my 3 ft for 4 good yrs!
2. 2252, best internal filter I ever had :Smug: , easy to wash and maintance, strong motor.
3. 2228 for 8 good years, it has working for my 5ft. I only change the O ring once at the 5th yrs and it never give me any pro.

----------


## simplydiscus

simply classic  :Cool:

----------


## herns

> anyone has any comments on ecco pro models? was thinking of getting the 2032 model but i would like to hear from the rest of you guys out there . Anyone also knows whats the price region for that model?


I had 2232 for about 2 mos now and last week I had a maintenance. It took me about 5 mins to do the job. Its an awesome canister.

----------


## seanskye

I have the classic and proII and just bought a pro (2222). Personally I prefer the Pro.

----------


## troyz

hi guys, as for me i still prefer the classic series then the pro series..
i have both series...for the classic, only 1 o-ring i have to worry about..
just last year my pro 2 2026 leak after 3 years..i have to change the o-ring and the inlet and outlet valves...that cost me around $55 excluding the labour charges which they waived :Shocked:

----------


## Foxtrotperv

I'm currently using an Eheim 2213 with Do!Aqua lily pipe outflow on my 5g tank. Must say I really love the great job. No more murky water.  :Grin:

----------


## seborf

Using eheim 2217 at the moment, have not found any problems with it but would 2028 be value for money as compared to 2217?

----------


## vynzs

Can i know where is eheim assemble? China? I know is from Germany.. But many LFS tell me that now all from china..? 

Correct me if im wrong...

----------


## Jimmy

> Can i know where is eheim assemble? China? I know is from Germany.. But many LFS tell me that now all from china..? 
> 
> Correct me if im wrong...


 I won't be surprised if it is assembled in China but the brand is orginated from Germany. It still beat those brands purely from China in term of quality. Of coz there are still some that can be used but same brand sometimes depend on your luck, one may got a lower quality one while the other will not have problem. It depends on how much one can spend on such equipment.

----------


## diabolique88

Hi, I'm new here. After reading the posts in this thread, I wanna get the Eheim Pro II 2028 or Eheim Classic 2217 as I'm getting a new and bigger home for my 4 terrapins. The new tub that I am getting for them contains at least 250 litres of water.

May I ask if Eheim 2028 come with a spray bar?

----------


## sunnydaze

> Can i know where is eheim assemble? China? I know is from Germany.. But many LFS tell me that now all from china..? 
> 
> Correct me if im wrong...


I suspect so. The "Made In Germany" wordings are no where to be found.

----------


## foocp

> Can i know where is eheim assemble? China? I know is from Germany.. But many LFS tell me that now all from china..? 
> 
> Correct me if im wrong...


For classic series, main parts are from Germany and assembly is done at China.

Not sure about other series though.

----------


## KWL

event if it is made china, as long as the quality control properly in place, it should be ok. I belive almost all equipment, television, laptop, printer, monitor, you name it, are made in China.

----------


## herns

> For classic series, main parts are from Germany and assembly is done at China.
> 
> Not sure about other series though.


If your lucky to get old stocks, they are made in Germany. I have Ecco 2232 I bought a year ago and it was made in Germany.

Products that are designed in America and in some parts of Europe like Germany, Sweden etc are okay. But products that are designed and made in China are very, very poor quality  :Boo: .

----------


## kaka23

> I have the classic and proII and just bought a pro (2222). Personally I prefer the Pro.


Hi..any particular reason you prefer PRO series?

----------


## madnugget

currently owned 2026x2 and 2226, but i think i would prefer the classic series.. the pro series no doubt is smaller and have more inbuilt functions (quick disconnect etc) but looking at the filters i have i always have to worry about the o-ring.. certain parts not aligned properly etc.. =)

----------


## aquarius

Since the poll started till now, i'm actually suprised that there are slightly more people who prefer the classic to the Pro or Pro 2 series. Looks like people prefer models that are simple and less likely to give problems. 

Frankly i prefer the Pro series to the Classic and Pro 2 cos the Pro series can hold more media compared to the Classic and the Pro series has less parts as compared to the Pro 2 which means lesser parts will spoil and leading to lesser expensive parts to change. It's a pity they discontinued the Pro series.  :Sad:  Btw i wonder why doesn't eheim make their box shaped cannister filters to allow the inlet/outlet valve to swivel? There are so many brands out there that has this feature which i find very good.

----------


## madnugget

while fixing my cannister today i realise the info on the eheimasia website was different. old model higher power? i see 2226 and 2026 both were 20W, but i do see a temperature increase when i was using 2226 and i check the cannister it labeled 25W..

----------


## wongkk

Using pro till now seems everything fine.

----------


## Mr.XP

Hi guys trying to boost my 3.5x2x2ft tank's filtering capacity. Remains undecided between pro 2 2028 and classic 2217. Would like to know some information which could help decide.
1) 2217's power consumption, is it as efficient as 2028?
2) Where's a good place to get them, NA or seaview?
3) Which of them could stock up more medium?

----------


## Matt.Lee

Can ask if 2073 can use with 3x1.5x1.5 tank? Will it be undersize?

----------


## wongkk

Using classic..... 2260

----------


## limz_777

just wondering do you guys bagged up the medias(for easy maintenance ) in your classics ?

----------


## doofie22

i'm using eheim pro and planning to get another one for another tank  :Very Happy:

----------


## sungod666

I am running a 900L tank and i have both Pro3 and Classic 2260. For a anything less than 4ft, a Pro 3 will do nice. the design is good and save you a lot of effort when it comes to maintenance. As for cost, dont be mistaken, although the classic sell for less, it doesnt comes with media. The Pro 3 comes with media. so if you add up the cost, it is not much difference. 

Of course one great thing about the classic is the ability to change pump head easily or upgrade to the 1262 with a higher flow rate. the default is 2400L/hr, the 1262 is 3400L/hr while the pro 3 is 1700l/hr. No need to overkill if you are 4 ft or less, the pro 3 will do just nice. yah the classic take some effort in installing, you need screwdriver and they use 2 type of hose, 16/22 and 25/34. if the default length in box is not enough, you will need to buy. 16/22 is $5.5 per meter while the 25/34 is a massive $12.5 per meter.

The pro just use one type of hose, 16/22 and it has a flow indicator to show you the strength of flow in your pump. if you find the flow too powerful for your planted tank, you could adjust the flow rate. classic got no such options. one more thing about the pro is, it got wheels! so convenient to move around. the classic you must drag and possibly scratch the fancy marble on your floor. 

so buy the pro3 for your 3 ft and add 2 kilos of biohomme plus. the best media in the market! even better than Eheim substrat pro. 5 kilo goes for $160.

----------


## sungod666

Both my pro 3 and classic have big wordings on the box "MADE IN GERMANY". wonder if there is any misrep but the feel and build sure is top class.

----------


## KITTY

Hey everyone, I'm using dolphin c1000n changed one o ring before n thinking to change filters, any good reco on ehiem on 2 ft planted tank? I need valve control cox used to using dolphin filters. Cheers

----------


## StanChung

Eheim Classic 2215- powerful enough if and when you want to add a chiller in the chain.

----------


## KITTY

i thinking to get either 2213 or 2222 for my 2ft planted. which one is a better choice?

----------


## KITTY

I finally got my 2211! Small n petite , bottle looks like Choya bottle :Smile:

----------


## Jianyuan

Wont 2211 be a bit underfiltered for a 2 feeter.

----------


## KITTY

the specification indicates its suitable for 50l-120l water  :Smile:  actually wanted to get 2213, but the specs indicated 80l onwards and my tank capcity is only 60l.

----------


## KITTY

is there a need to get a subfilter?

----------


## premierdrums

Do any of u guys use the ecco or ecco pro? I heard its really energy saving, given the watt per output?

----------


## cchernth

I had a eco 2032 but upgraded to a pro 3, model 350 two weeks ago. very efficient for my 2 feet tank as it also pump my hailea 130 chiller. 3 layer of filter provide very good filtration, am very satiify with the clean water as it suit my crs need. Very easy to start up unlike the older version model 2028, although also self priming, had to pump hard to get it started. which i has used before back in 2002 for my planted 3 feet tank.

The price for this model is competitive at petmart and nanyang. Other 3 places i checked, the price were very high.

----------


## edsa

Has anyone tried the Eheim prefilter canisters? would like to know if the flow rate reduction is notable if any.

----------


## aquarius

Looks like since 2008 when the poll was done till now 2012, we have a fairly good idea that most people choose to use the Classic series of Ehiem filters. For me, simple is better cos it means lesser parts spoiling and lesser need to change/replace parts. For me the Classic fits this criteria but when you compare it to the Pro series with the same capacity, the Pro series is better because the Pro is able to hold a larger volume of Bio Medias. The Pro 2 series on the other hand has too many parts which makes it more prone to spoilage as compared to the Pro series and the capacity for both is the same. Some more the price for the Pro 2 is much more expensive than the Pro series. Its a pity they no longer carry the Pro series.

----------


## StanChung

Pro 2 is alright- only changed the gasket[outer one] once-in the ten years I've used it. Replaced the grommets twice[rubber ring in between the media tray]. I never use the priming button as it spoils the gasket IMO[both]. The 4 locks are a bit dodgy but ok, I can live with it as long as it doesn't leak. The hose lock function before you take the filter to clean is the best mechanism to retain the siphon so you don't need to suck water without fiddling with double taps & confusing which goes where for 2215, 2213.
I actually prefer the 2028 PII over the 2217. 

Not loving my 2075- leaking on and off especially after cleaning it. The mechanism for retaining the siphon is no longer there. Replaced with a lever to control flow. How am i supposed to remove the hoses hooked to lily pipes, inline CO2 diffusers etc without wetting the floor dear Eheim engineers? The impeller chamber is not self cleaning is it?  :Evil: 


Have never used the Pro except Ecco Pro 2036. This is a gem IMO for 2 ft tanks if you need to push water through a chiller or just load up with fast clogging ADA Bio Rio since it's flow is considerable more powerful than it's predecessor-the notorious Ecco. I've used one since late 2008 till now and not a single issue unlike it's predecessor. Had really lousy impeller fins that cracked within a month- I had two 2236 and changed 4 impellers in less than two years, handles that pop out, leaky joints- overall it was a POC.[piece of %@$%]

----------


## xconnect.

I think I am the only guy that uses 2224 XD

----------


## ralliart12

> I think I am the only guy that uses 2224 XD


May I check with you if both the _default_ inlet & outlet pipes that comes stock with the 2224, is green in colour? I'm thinking of getting the grey-black _Eheim Installation Sets_ but unsure if I need to buy both sets...

----------


## xconnect.

Ya both green

----------


## rubbersandal

I'm thinking about using a 2260 but aware the humming sound from the pump, does anyone have a solution. Have tried rubber pad beneath the pump but it dosent work. Dont feel like wrapping it with a towel or detach pump from canister thanks.

----------


## whooshgabby

classic is perfect. second for me is pro2. just my base on my experience.  :Smile:

----------


## ralliart12

What's an appropriate filter for a 1.5feet tank?

----------


## daybreaks

is a classic 2215 more than sufficient for a 60cm by 30cm by 36cm tank?

----------


## xconnect.

> is a classic 2215 more than sufficient for a 60cm by 30cm by 36cm tank?


Yep enough for a two feeter

----------


## daybreaks

> Yep enough for a two feeter


thanks for the fast reply.Was thinking of either the smallest ecco pro series or the classic one.
seems like classic is better due to lesser parts and a more versatile pump.

----------


## StanChung

Just nice I think-even after you chain a chiller to it.

----------


## polyho

Hi all. If my tank size is 120cmx30cmx30cm which Eheim model should I get? Plan to have fern and US Fissidens as background and foreground respectively. 

Thanks

----------


## StanChung

A 2217 would be adequate.

----------


## Alaney

What tank size would be good for eheim 2211? Just got a second hand 1 for free. Pls advise. TY.  :Smile:

----------


## mincedmeat

> What tank size would be good for eheim 2211? Just got a second hand 1 for free. Pls advise. TY.


I think anywhere between 1 - 2 feet should be within the working capacity of the filter, and anything more than that would be pushing the boundaries. Most 1 - 2 feet tanks should fall within the range of 50-150l for the 2211 filter to work.

----------


## stormhawk

mincedmeat's estimation is correct. Take into consideration whether you intend to run a chiller or not. If not, then the 2211 will suffice for the tank sizes recommended by minced. If you do intend to run a CO2 diffuser with chiller etc, you will need a larger filter.

----------


## Alaney

Ok got it! Thanks for the advise! Will follow it through.  :Smile:

----------


## rascal

hi i hope bro out there can help me with this.

i just bought a eheim 2260 and my set up will be something like this.

tank>> dummy filter or pre filter(filled with wool and pad)>> eheim 2260>> chiller >> back to tank
*NOTE: ONLY eheim 2260 will be running the whole system.

In the box i have 25/34mm hose that is for the inlet of the eheim 2260.
Can eheim 2260 used a smaller hose size as i will connect it to my dummy filter? (i could not find another filter that has an outlet/inlet using 25/34mm hose)
and how can i do it??

i hope bro out there can help me with this :Smile: 
Thanks

----------


## xconnect.

> hi i hope bro out there can help me with this.
> 
> i just bought a eheim 2260 and my set up will be something like this.
> 
> tank>> dummy filter or pre filter(filled with wool and pad)>> eheim 2260>> chiller >> back to tank
> *NOTE: ONLY eheim 2260 will be running the whole system.
> 
> In the box i have 25/34mm hose that is for the inlet of the eheim 2260.
> Can eheim 2260 used a smaller hose size as i will connect it to my dummy filter? (i could not find another filter that has an outlet/inlet using 25/34mm hose)
> ...


http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum...cal-Collection

----------


## xconnect.

This should help you a bit the parts however not so sure where get you can contribute to this post instead as it is more active

----------


## monstar

What's the difference between 2217 and the 2026? Which would you guys go for? Cost wise what's it like?

----------


## polyho

> What's the difference between 2217 and the 2026? Which would you guys go for? Cost wise what's it like?


I would like to know too. Any comments from the expert? 

Is it better to get 2217 or pro series. I prefer easy maintenance and problem free.

----------


## Jianyuan

2217 is the classic series, which is pretty simple with less fanciful gadgets like the priming button.
2026 is the pro 2 series, with the add on of the priming function and the maintainence function.

Many people prefer the classic version as lesser parts means lesser parts to replace, and less easier to break down faster.

----------


## darter

Im getting a ADA 60p which is 60x30x30 soon. Will be running a chiller along it too. Which classic series would be more suitable? Where can i get the best price for it?

----------


## darrentyl

Do you intend to have pre-filter?

I will suggest 2215 with pre-filter and chiller. Maybe you can consider lily pipe since your tank will be braceless?

Nice tank by the way.




> Im getting a ADA 60p which is 60x30x30 soon. Will be running a chiller along it too. Which classic series would be more suitable? Where can i get the best price for it?

----------


## darter

Will be running a prefilter if the flow is still good for the chiller.

Intent to run as follow:

Prefilter - filter - chiller (HS-28A) - Tank

Alreadied ordered ANS i-flo set as ADA lily pipes too expensive.

----------


## felix_fx2

> Im getting a ADA 60p which is 60x30x30 soon. Will be running a chiller along it too. Which classic series would be more suitable? Where can i get the best price for it?


How much are you looking at spending? after saying i believe we can pm you better.
IMO, Classic's design makes the canister reliable as less movable parts. 

on/off taps replace with double taps and you will be very happy

----------


## darter

Im not very sure of the indicative market price now. Looking for the best deals or rather, a price guide to prevent myself from getting chopped by the shops.

----------


## felix_fx2

Time to window shop at lfs.  :Smile: 
If the price is too steep buy a used one.

----------


## ralliart12

Hi fellows, may I know what's a _reliable_ way to prime the Eheim 2211 without buying any additional Eheim accessories? & does the position of the canister (relative to the tank) affects its priming? I have had hard times trying to prime my 2211...

----------


## xconnect.

> Hi fellows, may I know what's a _reliable_ way to prime the Eheim 2211 without buying any additional Eheim accessories? & does the position of the canister (relative to the tank) affects its priming? I have had hard times trying to prime my 2211...


Really cannot help try to fill the filter first with water Is the best you can do.you need buy taps for classics for it to start

----------


## xconnect.

> Hi fellows, may I know what's a _reliable_ way to prime the Eheim 2211 without buying any additional Eheim accessories? & does the position of the canister (relative to the tank) affects its priming? I have had hard times trying to prime my 2211...


Really cannot help try to fill the filter first with water Is the best you can do.you need buy taps for classics for it to start

----------


## ralliart12

> ...try to fill the filter first with water Is the best you can do...


already did top up as much water into the main canister as possible. I guess the challenge is filling up the 2 tubings with water (completely) without using some additional "seal".

----------


## felix_fx2

> Really cannot help try to fill the filter first with water Is the best you can do.you need buy taps for classics for it to start


So is becomes a must to buy taps/double taps ?




> already did top up as much water into the main canister as possible. I guess the challenge is filling up the 2 tubings with water (completely) without using some additional "seal".


If canister is already filled with water, try tilting the 2211 itself when powering on the canister.
Canister work on the basis of siphoning, once the siphon starts it will work.

You can try another method, empty canister and suck from the outflow until the water starts to fill the canister.
try to experiment this method with a pail. i test run my 2213 (2nd handed from a bro) this method before i used it with double taps on my 2 feet.

----------


## ralliart12

> ...I remember reading about using Vaseline to protect/protect the gasket...


Do you mean coat the (dull red) rubber O-ring with a layer of Vaseline? Wouldn't the vaseline leak into the filter media column?




> ...The best thing going for the classic range is 2211, which is perfect for nano tanks.


 I will say if there's anything that can be desired from the 221_1_, I will like a flow control.




> ...the 2026 has built in removable taps that assures that the in-flow hose never drains out during cleaning... good "fail safe" design...


Any photos of these _"built-in" removable taps_? Does the 2224 have such a feature as well?




> just wondering do you guys bagged up the medias(for easy maintenance ) in your classics ?


Have read somewhere that if media bags are to be used, they have to be positioned properly so that water does not flow around the external side of the bag:

source: Flow rate and Beneficial Bacteria




> ...Its a pity they no longer carry the Pro series.


Is the 222_4_ one of the "_Pro_ series"? I thought it (the 222_4_ model) is still readily available?

New questions regarding the 2211

Qn1: found this piece as part of the accessories that arrived with my 2224. Could not figure out where it should go & what purpose it serves?:



Qn2: Does the 221_1_ comes with _only one_ piece of the red rubber O-ring?

----------


## StanChung

Is for you to curve the hose into your tank, especially if you have more than one bend leading in to the tank.
This device prevents the stiff hose from 'folding' and cutting off flow. I think most useful if you're using a spraybar.

----------


## xconnect.

They changed the name of the 2224 it is now called ehiem pro 250.if you still want.seaview still got old stocks of the 2224.acually nano tanks you can consider the eheim aqua compact bacause firstly it can self prime unlike the 2211 and can adjust flow rate and the capacity is 1.3 liters of media which is ok. For my 2224 I love it very quiet,still self prime and the only part I changed was the o rings which cost 6$ only.

----------


## ralliart12

> Is for you to curve the hose into your tank, especially if you have more than one bend leading in to the tank.
> This device prevents the stiff hose from 'folding' and cutting off flow. I think most useful if you're using a spraybar.


Oh I see; probably I couldn't see where it is depicted to being used, in the monochrome user manual. But in that case, shouldn't they provide a couple more of such pieces?




> They changed the name of the 2224 it is now called ehiem pro 250...


Oh yah, I remembered seeing this "model name" printed on the box of my 2224. Incidentally, I _still_ see the number, "2224" printed on the box as well.




> ...if you still want.seaview still got old stocks of the 2224...


I already bought mine more than half a year ago; & I still have not use it.




> ...acually nano tanks you can consider the eheim aqua compact bacause firstly it can self prime unlike the 2211 and can adjust flow rate and the capacity is 1.3 liters of media which is ok...


But one thing I can't fathom for the Eheim Aqua Compact series is that, since they "designed" it for use in nano tanks, why do they still designed it in a way that a big chunk of space is taken up by their outlet?




> ...the capacity is 1.3 liters of media which is ok...


For 2211 (& Eheim filters in general), where does one see the media capacity being listed?




> ...For my 2224 I love it very quiet,still self prime and the only part I changed was the o rings which cost 6$ only.


The 2224 is self-primed? As in, I do not need to do anything_ else at all except_ to top up the canister with as much water as possible, & it will eventually get "kicking"?

----------


## xconnect.

http://www.eheim.asia/prod_eheim.html

----------


## xconnect.

As for the 2224 for my filter I just filled it with water and put the quick disconnect back the filter if I wash the filter media.it will just continue without trouble.got one time I change the pipes i just fill the pipes with water slowly from a filled bottle with tank water.then switch on the filter then BAM it is running agian.i really love my 2224

----------


## xconnect.

As for the aquacompact I think it is more worth than classic like 2211 because agian you save $ on buying double taps for easy priming. And can control flow rate.however price will be slight more expensive than the 2211 but not a significant amount still worth it

----------


## aquarius

From the website, it looks like they have changed the series eg. Classic 221x to 150, 250 etc to reflect the vol of water in the tank. Very sad that the Pro 222x series is discontinued. It's a very good and simple filter unlike the Pro 2s.  :Sad:

----------


## mincedmeat

To help everyone with the Eheim products, I managed to find a product catalogue: 

http://www.eheim.asia/_download/TRAD...GUE%202008.pdf

Hope this is useful!

----------


## stormhawk

2224 does not self prime. It is necessary to fill the canister with canister manually. Fill the output tube with some water before reattaching it to the canister via the connection head. Once the pump is turned on the siphon from the tank will start. Need to tilt it a little or the trapped air can cause issues later on. The detachable connection head (with the intake and output tubes) that goes into the pump housing works as a "double tap" of sorts. The Pro series aka 222x were great filters. I still have my 2222 and I liked it a lot.

----------


## ralliart12

Anybody knows how much BioHome Plus is required to completely fill up a 2224?

----------


## xconnect.

I fill half with about one box so you will need about two boxes of 1litre to fill it. Any excess you can always sell or keep for future use

----------


## ralliart12

Besides BioHome Plus, what other class-leading bio-media are there?

----------


## xconnect.

Ultimate ceramic ring i will buy if I strike four d is bacteria house brand sold at Gc  :Smile:

----------


## ralliart12

> Ultimate ceramic ring i will buy if I strike four d is bacteria house brand sold at Gc


What about the Mr. Aqua Ceramic Rings? Read somewhere on another forum that in terms of amount of bacteria that it can house per unit size, it's almost as close to BioHome Plus as possible?

----------


## xconnect.

Well for me i will always have the mentality that is if this item is expensive is has got to be good so yeah  :Smile:

----------


## rubbersandal

Mr Aqua ceramic rings and seachem matrix follow by eheim substrat pro.

----------


## mincedmeat

I have a mixture of Seachem matrix and Eheim substrate pro in my filter. I bought a small box of Mr Aqua which is used in my other filters. Works well so far.

----------


## ralliart12

> Mr Aqua ceramic rings...


Are there many types of Mr. Aqua ceramic rings? Or only one "model'?

----------


## VSGenesis

OT a bit. Eheim Pro 3 350. What is the 4 digit number model for this? 2073?

----------


## Punggoltan

From what I see there are small and medium size cr for mr aqua




> Are there many types of Mr. Aqua ceramic rings? Or only one "model'?

----------


## felix_fx2

> OT a bit. Eheim Pro 3 350. What is the 4 digit number model for this? 2073?


 product type: 2071 2073 2075
product name: professionel 3 250 350 600
http://www.eheim.de/eheim/inhalte/in...ail_32319_ehen

----------


## ralliart12

> From what I see there are small and medium size cr for mr aqua


When do we use the different sizes? For BioHome+ it's easy: only one size. But for media brands with different size, I know not how to choose.

----------


## alvinchan80

> When do we use the different sizes? For BioHome+ it's easy: only one size. But for media brands with different size, I know not how to choose.


There are 2 sizes for Biohome Plus... (maybe 3 sizes)...

----------


## ralliart12

> There are 2 sizes for Biohome Plus... (maybe 3 sizes)...


I must have missed it (them) in the LFS then.

----------


## ralliart12

Just to double-check: the intake pipe (hard plastic) of the 2224 is the same size as that of the 2211 right? If I'm not wrong, they are exactly the same part no. (7272210) right? I'm looking for steel mesh filter guards for 2 of my filters so wish to double check the size.

----------


## xconnect.

Wa so detailed like this need go Qian hU see the parts list to comfirm your This enquiry XD

----------


## mincedmeat

Isn't there a size to this? 12/16 or something? Or I might be on the wrong frequency  :Confused:

----------


## ralliart12

> Isn't there a size to this? 12/16 or something? Or I might be on the wrong frequency


Yah, there's also this measurement, but I'm not too sure about the exact measurements of the (intake) pipes used by either model, so just double-checking here.

----------


## mincedmeat

Try their catalog for help here: http://www.eheim.asia/_download/TRAD...GUE%202008.pdf

----------


## framejumb0

I'm also an Eheim fan and currently using 3 filters as my signature says.  :Smile: 
I like the solid build quality and silent reliable operation and availability of ample spare parts. 
Even though many people prefer 'classic' range, they use high wattage and doesn't come with taps. 
Over the time, Eheim improved the design of Classics with Pro, Pro 2 and Pro3. Looking at them I can see they tried to give pre-filtering capability to filter in a better way thus making it easy to clean prefilter. Also high quality media like 'bio mech pro' and 'mech pro' comes only with high end Pro x series models and buying them separately is very costly. And they reduced the power consumption greatly but supports high flow rates. Even they made priming easy. Even though people doesn't use this feature it is quite handy in a tightly packed aquarium.
Media wise 'substrat pro' is great with 450sq.m of area and sphere shape to help good flow through. Among others 'biohome' and 'Seachem Matrix' is top of the class media and I have using them too.

----------


## Shadow

When you are talking about power, you need to look closely on the whole spec. You should notice that with lower power, you lose Hmax. By right should also considered the filter volume because that also affect the power needed. There is no free lunch, the energy must go somewhere.

Classic: 
2215: 620l/h, 1.8m, 15W
2217: 1000l/h, 2.3m, 20W

Ecco pro:
200: 600l/h, 1.4m, 5W
Pro: 950l/h, 2m, 20W
1050l/h, 2m, 20W

Pro2:
2026: 950l/h, 2m, 20W
2028: 1050l/h, 2m, 20W

Pro3:
250: 950l/h, 1.5m, 12W
350: 1050l/h, 1.8m, 16W

----------


## xconnect.

I love my 2224 700L/h 8w which is v good

----------


## Navanod

Actually, the strongest Eheim canister is the Pro3e, in terms of max flow and head pressure, with an increased power usage, although I find the higher power still very efficient for the kind of flow and head pressure we get

2078: 1850l/h, 2.6m, 10-35W
2076: 1700l/h, 2.4m, 10-35W

Flowrate and head pressure can be decreased from the above stated max, with a corresponding reduction in power, down to 10W. Unlike the other models, where flow reduction is achieved through a physical valve (and thus, no energy saving or reduction in heat dump), the Pro3e actually slows the impeller speed down (can hear the noise signature change when changing speed).

----------


## tetrakid

For the price of one 8W canister, one could possibly easily get 2 big HOFs with added cost-saving benefits. For canisters, the best buys are usually the bigger and pricier ones. 

Even the best and biggest canister models are now made capable of speed-reduction to save power, decrease flow, etc. 



> I love my 2224 700L/h 8w which is v good

----------


## VSGenesis

Using Pro 3. Love the trays as compared to the classics. One for the sponges, then two for substrat pro and last the mech. 

Was wondering if i should stick to two substrat tray or change one to other media like matrix? I've planted so i dont think placing carbon will be a good idea. 

With weekly bacter from waterlife, i was able to achieve the water parameters i wanted within 3 weeks. Nonetheless to be on the save side i waited till 4th before adding any fauna.

The canister is extremely quiet. My fan is louder.

----------


## framejumb0

> Was wondering if i should stick to two substrat tray or change one to other media like matrix? I've planted so i dont think placing carbon will be a good idea. 
> .


Matrix is really a good media with pots for both Nitrifiers and Denitrifiers. Matrix really contribute to reduce NitrAtes after 2-3 week matured. Planted tank may thrive with NitrAtes i guess. So it will help to maintain NitrAtes at lower levels. But high NitrAte levels can't reduce by Matrix. For that you need "Seachem Denitrate" media with less than 200lph with a separate setup.

----------


## ralliart12

Anybody knows the price of a 222_2_ & whether it comes with media?

----------


## xconnect.

Erm 2222 not in production already Only 2224 which cost 128$ if my memory don fail me

----------


## ralliart12

> Erm 2222 not in production already Only 2224 which cost 128$ if my memory don fail me


So within the Pro series, 222_4_ becomes the _new smallest_ model?

----------


## xconnect.

They changed the name if I remember it is pro 250 however there is still old stocks that still put as 2224

----------


## mincedmeat

I believe it's just the naming convention of the filter, probably got to do with the branding of the company. Don't be too hard up on it.

----------


## ralliart12

> Erm 2222 not in production already Only 2224 which cost 128$ if my memory don fail me


I actually went to C328 to check & they have the 2222 (may be their old stock?) at a slightly higher price than that $128-figure. In the end I paid +$30 for another 2224 (I have one unused one), since it's well, "only" +$30.

Anyway fellows, I have got some new questions:

Qn1a: is it al right to use the adjustable "valves" built-into the pump head of the 2224 as a permanent means to throttle down the flow-rate of the filter, i.e. to "tune" the outlet and/or inlet valve to "half-open" permanently? Will that spoilt the pump?

Qn1b: if that's al right, which should I close half-way? The inlet valve, or the outlet valve?

Qn2: is it al right to have the entire canister permanently _placed above the water-level of the tank_?

----------


## mincedmeat

Good question there! I would like to find that out also. In any case, I would assume that it would be better to throttle down both inlet and outlet rates at the same level.

----------


## xconnect.

Erm can leave like that I don't do that though. But some people say will increase the filters power consumption.
Question two is Erm I don't really recommend because firstly you may cause the filter to work harder OR you maybe having a very hard time to start the filter to run.But I never try before so yeah

----------


## ralliart12

> Good question there! I would like to find that out also. In any case, I would assume that it would be better to throttle down both inlet and outlet rates at the same level.


Found my answer:

----------


## mincedmeat

Sure, but it doesn't state if we can reduce both at the same time?

----------


## aquarius

> Anyway fellows, I have got some new questions:
> 
> Qn1a: is it al right to use the adjustable "valves" built-into the pump head of the 2224 as a permanent means to throttle down the flow-rate of the filter, i.e. to "tune" the outlet and/or inlet valve to "half-open" permanently? Will that spoilt the pump?
> 
> Qn1b: if that's al right, which should I close half-way? The inlet valve, or the outlet valve?
> 
> You can reduce the flowrate of the filter permanently without any problems but you can only do so by restricting the flow from the outlet valve ONLY.
> 
> Qn2: is it al right to have the entire canister permanently _placed above the water-level of the tank_?


If you were to place your filter at the same level as your tank but at a distance of about 2ft away from the tank using a filter that have both the inlet and outlet valves situated at the top of the pump head area like in the Eheim Pro series, you will definately have airlock problems at the impellor or pump head area. No matter how much you shake and meddle with it also no use, even after you've primed it properly. The only way to minimise the problem is to reduce the flowrate at the outflow valve but the problem is still there though not as bad. I'm not sure whether you will have this problem a not if you were to place the filter just beside the tank cos i've not tried it before. 

But if the base of the filter is slightly lower than the tank base eg. Tank is placed on the bottom of a 2 tier stand and the filter beside the tank and on the floor, than you won't have airlock problems if you've primed it properly.

BTW i was wondering whether has anybody tried placing their Eheim Classic at the same level as their tanks and not experience airlock problem cos theorectically it shouldn't have any problems since the inlet is at the base of the filter. Can anybody comment on it?

----------


## ralliart12

> If you were to place your filter at the same level as your tank but at a distance of about 2ft away from the tank using a filter that have both the inlet and outlet valves situated at the top of the pump head area like in the Eheim Pro series, you will definately have airlock problems at the impellor or pump head area. No matter how much you shake and meddle with it also no use, even after you've primed it properly...


Oh? *Why* is this so?




> ...But if the base of the filter is slightly lower than the tank base eg. Tank is placed on the bottom of a 2 tier stand and the filter beside the tank and on the floor, than you won't have airlock problems if you've primed it properly...[/COLOR]


That is _exactly_ how I'm deploying it for my (second) tank now! So far so good, though the flowrate is severely reduced via my lily pipe.




> ...BTW i was wondering whether has anybody tried placing their Eheim Classic at the same level as their tanks and not experience airlock problem cos theorectically it shouldn't have any problems since the inlet is at the base of the filter. Can anybody comment on it?


Have a 2211 placed slightly (base of tank is around 20cm higher than base of filter) lower than my 1.5-footer tank & the filter is _making too much noise_; suspect is air-locked.

----------


## aquarius

It could be that the distance/length of the tubing makes the flow of water even more difiicult especially around the pump head area. I'm not sure whether you'll have the same problem if you put the filter just beside the tank and at the same level cos i've never tried it before.

One thing i noticed is that my other filter that is situated just beside and at a lower level than the tank.... when i didn't prime it properly before i first start my filter and later go and shake it lightly hoping to help the filter get rid of the air, it ended up the inlet side stopped sucking in the water.  :Evil:  In my opinion such setups can be quite tricky in preventing airlock problems.

----------


## ralliart12

Anybody knows the *direction of water flow* through a 2224? The reason I asked, is because I'm a bit perplexed by the default arrangement of media types as advised by the Eheim 2224 manual, which is (_from top to bottom of the canister_):

Fine filter pad (white wool)
Biological media (Eheim SubstratePro)
Blue filter pad (coarse)
EhfiMech

I would have thought the mechanical filtration should occur before the biological, which means I would expect something like this (_from top to bottom of the canister_):

Biological media (Eheim SubstratePro)
EhfiMech
Fine filter pad (white wool)
Blue filter pad (coarse)

& that is *assuming* "dirty" water from the tank flows from the bottom to the top (of the canister). Anybody can enlighten me on these?

----------


## felix_fx2

Most folks use the corse pad to catch large debris from clogging up the other media.

The fine one for the finer ones of course.

You can decide which you feel is a better method of placement.

----------


## Navanod

Hi bro, the idea behind Eheim's arrangement is such that the water goes through a very coarse then coarse filter to remove large and medium particles. Then through the bio-media for the bacteria (and to also trap the small particles) and finally through a very fine wool filter to "polish" the water so nothing goes back into the tank.

To have the fine wool any earlier would cause it to choke too quickly I suppose.

----------


## Navanod

Oh, by the way, I did try putting a fine pad before the biomedia before but the biomedia still ended up with dirt and sludge as the bacteria themselves forms biofilm and this brown sludge.
Totally pointless at the end

----------


## ralliart12

> ...You can decide which you feel is a better method of placement.


I am just curious as to whether there's any logic that Eheim stated to use their different media types in this specific arrangement.




> Hi bro, the idea behind Eheim's arrangement is such that the water goes through a very coarse then coarse filter to remove large and medium particles. Then through the bio-media for the bacteria (and to also trap the small particles) and finally through a very fine wool filter to "polish" the water so nothing goes back into the tank...


For the part in blue, even so, the EhfiMech should be on top of (after) the blue filter pad (coarse), & not below (before) it? This is assuming water comes from the bottom of the canister & flows out through the top?

For the part in green, I suppose I can accept this reasoning, i.e. last stage of polishing. 




> ...To have the fine wool any earlier would cause it to choke too quickly I suppose.





> Oh, by the way, I did try putting a fine pad before the biomedia before but the biomedia still ended up with dirt and sludge as the bacteria themselves forms biofilm and this brown sludge.
> Totally pointless at the end


Actually that is what I'm thinking of doing, i.e. placing _extremely fine_ filter pad (more like cloth, actually) _before_ any of the other types of media, but I'm afraid it may choke too easily.




> For my 2224 I jus follow what the box shows only the media is bio home plus and I double layer the white wool as shrimp poopoo too fine blue filter pad sure cannot stop


I am thinking of doing something like this (from top to bottom of the canister):

extremely fine filter pad (actually I'm using those Magic-clean DRY wipes from DAISO)
Biohome+
Biohome+
extremely fine filter pad

& totally not using the 2 layers of issued filter wool at all.

----------


## xconnect.

For my 2224 I jus follow what the box shows only the media is bio home plus and I double layer the white wool as shrimp poopoo too fine blue filter pad sure cannot stop

----------


## ralliart12

Question #1: Is there anyway to prevent the brown brown stuff from growing _inside_ the filter _pipes_?

Question #2a: Can we fit all parts where the filter (rubber) hoses join other equipment, with double-taps, just so that we can easily remove any section of the filtration system without water leaking out?

Question #2b: If the answer to the above question is "yes", I've got another question; any reputable double-taps? Or must get back Eheim-branded ones (if they got sell such items)?

----------


## xconnect.

1. I think the brown stuff is inevitable so ya... Unless the pipe is in darkness then can reduce the brown stuff.
2.you can do that but that will cause you wallet to be unhappy  :Smile: 
3.eheim double taps are very good and one will not risk using alternatives.because If the alternative double tap fails there will be catastrophic results.

----------


## Navanod

One has to weigh the benefits vs the time here bro.

A very fine material will choke in a few days. And in the long run may damage the pump. If you are going to have to open up the canister every week for this, it may make more sense to just rinse the media basket in tank water (from waterchange) every week instead.
Another way is to put a very dense fine sponge at the inlet hose inside the tank and wash that very often instead.

Actually, the blue sponge is finer than the eheim mech media, so the placement is correct in a sense. Haha.

The brown stuff in the hose is bacteria film. Light or no light, it'll grow and it's part of the bacteria filteration.

For double taps, make sure it does not restrict flow too much as some types are not meant for high flow.
You may also want to look at Eheim installation kits. I find it easier to just disconnect the hose from the rainbar/inlet basket and drain them during canister servicing as it prevents airlock and priming issues after that. The installation kits makes it rather easy and cost about $50 total for inlet and outlet (sold separately).
Not sure how much the quick disconnect will cost

----------


## ralliart12

> One has to weigh the benefits vs the time here bro.
> 
> A very fine material will choke in a few days. And in the long run may damage the pump...


Not that concerned about the time used for filter maintenance, but yes, more concerned if a choked filter pad (if I'm using the Magic clean cloth it can really choke, I believe; because I'm using it in a simple filter in another tank & it really can filter out particles that I cannot see & turn brown over time) will caused the canister to implode or something.




> ...If you are going to have to open up the canister every week for this, it may make more sense to just rinse the media basket in tank water (from waterchange) every week instead...


I'm looking at this filter maintenance, i.e. rinsing the media in isolated tank water every month, i.e. & only to rinse one tray at any one time. So I expect to rinse the media, just not every week.




> ...Another way is to put a very dense fine sponge at the inlet hose inside the tank and wash that very often instead...


for the inlet point, I'm using those fine-meshed _metal wire guard_ instead of the sponge guard. Though in concept, should perform the deed as well, i.e. block out large particles from entering the canister at all.




> ...Actually, the blue sponge is finer than the eheim mech media, so the placement is correct in a sense. Haha...


That's assuming the unfiltered water really flows from the bottom to the top of the canister, which I'm unsure. Anyway, as for the fin-er default white filter pad, which is for "polishing" the water, why should it be the last media in the assumed flow direction?




> ...The brown stuff in the hose is bacteria film. Light or no light, it'll grow and it's part of the bacteria filtration...


I actually read somewhere in this forums, that someone suggested keeping a snail in the hose area (& restricting it there) to use the snail to eat away this brown film!




> ...For double taps, make sure it does not restrict flow too much as some types are not meant for high flow...


I'm still considering it (them), because I'm thinking whether I will be removing portions of the setup for cleaning/replacement in the future, & I am unsure if I can remove them modularly without creating a huge mess, even when I turn off the electricity...




> ...You may also want to look at Eheim installation kits. I find it easier to just disconnect the hose from the rainbar/inlet basket and drain them during canister servicing as it prevents airlock and priming issues after that. The installation kits makes it rather easy and cost about $50 total for inlet and outlet (sold separately).
> Not sure how much the quick disconnect will cost


Actually, I already have a pair of them installation kits #1 & #2, waiting to be deployed on my tank. I do not remember them costing so much (in total). But anyway, the issue may arise when I need to detach other portions of the filtration "piping" that is not at the points where the hoses join the inlet & outlet extremities (in the tank).

----------


## ralliart12

I've got a new question: will anything in the whole filtration system be damaged (be it long run/short run) if I shorten the hoses as much as they can be shortened? Main purpose is to prevent too much "slack" from twirling around the tank area.

----------


## xconnect.

Short is better . More flowrate

----------


## Shadow

should be OK. Actually I did exactly that.

----------


## ralliart12

Any way, found the answer to my previous question, i.e. direction of water flow _in a 2224_:



The water enters via the "IN" opening & flows _directly all the way to the bottom_ of the canister _first_, before being "pulled"/pumped up to the "OUT" opening, & hence being forced through the media baskets _from the bottom to the top_ of the canister respectively.

But! I have got a new question: _for the 2224_ canister filter, _is it al right, i.e. safe, for me to fill the huge, wasted, empty space at the very bottom of the canister with some more media, i.e. be it a few layers of filter wool or some loose ceramic rings, just for the purpose of more (mechanical) filtration? Since that huge space is not occupied by any thing?_ See attached photo:

----------


## huizhong

i did put some media in the empty space before. it was ok and working

----------


## ralliart12

> i did put some media in the empty space before. it was ok and working


May I know specifically what (type) of media you place in that empty space & did you fill up that empty space entirely or...?

----------


## huizhong

i just drop a few ceremic rings into that space. just 1 layer cr height

----------


## ralliart12

Actually I'm curious if there's any detrimental/dangerous issue to fill up that empty space, as I've come across a few sites that said the empty space if there to "collect" any relatively large particles & prevent them large particles from reaching the media stages/trays at all. But if that's the only reason for the empty space, wouldn't some coarse mechanical media there be even better?

----------


## xconnect.

For my 2224 I don't dare put anything there because I scared I compromise the flow rate of the filter .

----------


## ralliart12

I was thinking of placing some coarse media there, but _the risk still exists_, i.e. *if* I cannot force the water flow _to go through the majority of the pile_ of coarse media there evenly before being pushed _upwards_ back through the media trays...

Currently, this is what I'm intending to go for (from top to bottom of canister):

Media tray _1 top_ - Magicclean cloth pad (just 1 piece only; placed it at the very top so that I can replace it regularly too)
Media tray _1 main_ - Biohome Plus
Media tray _2_ - Biohome Plus (_entirely_)
Empty space (at bottom of filter) _left_ - the default Eheim provided mechanical filter media
Empty space (at bottom of filter) _top right_ - the default white finer filter wool
Empty space (at bottom of filter) _top left_ - the default blue coarse filter wool




> ...the default arrangement of media types as advised by the Eheim 2224 manual, which is (_from top to bottom of the canister_):
> 
> Fine filter pad (white wool)
> Biological media (Eheim SubstratePro)
> Blue filter pad (coarse)
> EhfiMech
> ...


Btw, ceramic rings are intended mainly to be biological filter media right_?_ How come Eheim's supposedly (most coarse, according to its recommended tier placement in the 2224 manual) mechanical filter media, the EhfiMech, are actually ceramic rings?

----------


## Rexxer

Hi all. I am thinking of starting a 2ft tank for better water stability. Can I know which model you guys recommend? And any nice 2ftx 1ft to recommend? TIA

----------


## Navanod

My own idea is that it's a space for any creatures unfortunate enough to get sucked into the canister.
I always find shrimps (adult ones!) in that space in my canisters. They were sucked in as shrimplets and grew up there.
I've tried placing some CR very sparsely there and it didn't affect flow. It's meant more for future shrimplets to hide in than as filter though. Haha

----------


## huizhong

> My own idea is that it's a space for any creatures unfortunate enough to get sucked into the canister.
> I always find shrimps (adult ones!) in that space in my canisters. They were sucked in as shrimplets and grew up there.
> I've tried placing some CR very sparsely there and it didn't affect flow. It's meant more for future shrimplets to hide in than as filter though. Haha


good idea. haha. but i dont think i am that hardworking to always check the canisters. mine has been running for 4-6 months and never maintain before. haha

----------


## ralliart12

> My own idea is that it's a space for any creatures unfortunate enough to get sucked into the canister.
> I always find shrimps (adult ones!) in that space in my canisters. They were sucked in as shrimplets and grew up there.
> I've tried placing some CR very sparsely there and it didn't affect flow. It's meant more for future shrimplets to hide in than as filter though. Haha





> good idea. haha. but i dont think i am that hardworking to always check the canisters. mine has been running for 4-6 months and never maintain before. haha


Yesterday (while doing maintenance on one of my 2224s) I tried _moving_ the 2 pieces of default cotton wool to that bottom empty space & have the 2 media trays filled _solely_ with Biohome+, & added a single piece of MagicClean fine filter cloth to the top of the "last" media tray. Flow rate doesn't seem to diminish much, if at all...

----------


## Navanod

Its still too early to tell bro. Give it a week or 2

----------


## ralliart12

> Its still too early to tell bro. Give it a week or 2


Understood.

----------


## matdiu

> Hi Guys
> 
> All of you know that Eheim got many model of canister.
> Which is better or which do you prefer most? Why?



Definitely Eheim 2213, classical, easy to operate and makes water crystal clear in my 2 ft tank!

----------


## G&A Associates

Hi all,
May I know, will 02 sets of 2213 sufficient for *3FT by 1.5FT by 1.5FT?

----------


## Antonchann

> Actually I'm curious if there's any detrimental/dangerous issue to fill up that empty space, as I've come across a few sites that said the empty space if there to "collect" any relatively large particles & prevent them large particles from reaching the media stages/trays at all. But if that's the only reason for the empty space, wouldn't some coarse mechanical media there be even better?


I use Eheim Lav for that empty space. Very Good..does not affect flowrate at all.
Very cheap too.. $11 for a litre. I think its one of those under-rated mechanical media out there.

----------


## ralliart12

Hi fellows, may I know if it is possible to claim warranty for an Eheim canister filter if it starts leaking simply from me filling up the canister fully with water (& _not even_ powered on)? I observed _no_ visible cracks on the canister body.

----------


## xconnect.

maybe you overfill it.or maybe your oring spoiled.can i ask what is your canister model?

----------


## felix_fx2

Still covered?
Leak from body must have crack. Shine torch light ?

----------


## ralliart12

> maybe you overfill it...


With media? But I ran this "stress test" with an empty canister & just tried to get the motor running.

The reason I'm running this test is because the canister _leaked during operation_ last weekend. Hence, I am testing it.




> ...maybe your oring spoiled...


Which O-ring (s)?




> ...can i ask what is your canister model?


2224.




> Still covered?...


Do you mean if the top cover (thick gray section) is still on? Actually, I do not get what you mean?




> Leak from body must have crack. Shine torch light ?


I _strongly_ do not think there is any crack in the body (the translucent green portion), but I'll do another test later, i.e. just fill up the green canister with water & observe if any traces of water drips out.

----------


## ralliart12

1 additional question fellows:

Are there opaque (black preferably) versions of Eheim hoses? I'm getting sick of algae/crud/whatever nonsense growing on the inner wall of my normal translucent green hoses.

----------


## ralliart12

> ...Leak from body must have crack. Shine torch light ?


I ran another leak test:




As observed from the video:
I fill the empty (no media, no tray no nothing) canister _partially_ with water, replaced the top grey cover & start topping up the remaining space with water via the inlet & outlet holes of the top cover. Almost immediately (_1min11sec-mark & 1min33sec-mark_ of the video) , water started leaking from the spots where the 4 hinges are (clamping the cover shut). I don't think this is supposed to happen. Besides, that how I usually top-up the filter with as much water as possible to make priming easier. I can't imagine what will happen with the canister actually powered on & running, & filled with media & such.

Erm, so, now what fellows? Claim my warranty or buy spare parts? What's damaged any way?

----------


## xconnect.

I SEE UR MISTAKE ALREADY u pour the water TO THE HOLES ONLY U LIKE this sure leak because inside the ehiem designers good they dont want you breed mossies when there the space near the hole so that is actually a safety feature NOT ur canister leaking. you try redo but you do dripping method to the hole and fill make sure no water escape to the empty space.BECAUSE i ALSO OWN A 2224 and i found out. i almost want to knock my head to the wall

----------


## ralliart12

> ...TO THE HOLES ONLY U LIKE...


Can you elaborate on this? I really do not understand.

----------


## xconnect.

Ok I help explain watsapp me 96701405.

----------


## ralliart12

> Ok I help explain watsapp me 96701405.


Sorry, just saw your message this morning. I fell asleep last night after my previous post.




> I SEE UR MISTAKE ALREADY u pour the water TO THE HOLES ONLY U LIKE this sure leak because inside the ehiem designers good they dont want you breed mossies when there the space near the hole so that is actually a safety feature NOT ur canister leaking. you try redo but you do dripping method to the hole and fill make sure no water escape to the empty space.BECAUSE i ALSO OWN A 2224 and i found out. i almost want to knock my head to the wall


Oh I finally get what you mean. Let me rephrase what you said:




> I see your mistake already: you should pour the water through the holes *only*. If you do it like this, i.e. just _blatantly_ pouring the water _into the general cavity around where the 2 holes are_, surely it will leak because inside the top grey compartment, the Ehiem designers are good in that they do not want you to breed mosquitoes where water can accumulate in the space near the 2 holes. So that actually is a safety feature; NOT your canister leaking. You can try re-doing the test again, but this time round, fill the canister _strictly via the holes only_...


Is that what you were trying to say?

----------


## xconnect.

Yeah I use dripping method when the filter is going to be filled so I can minimize leakage.

----------


## felix_fx2

I need a hammer.

You prime wrong way/pour too fast.
The inlet outlet which was removed, has a o ring there. (xconnect, confirm that for me please. Thanks )

Most canisters below the cover of that top section which house the powerhead/impeller section has some space. IMHO you were like pouring it right down.

----------


## Shadow

yup, wrong way of priming.

Why don't you install the piping but don't connect to the filter, Fill the inlet until full but left the outlet empty. Put the inlet on the tank and out let on the bucket. Connect it to the filter. It should start siphoning, wait until you see water coming out from the outlet, put your outlet in the tank.

----------


## xconnect.

The best is put water with your quick disconnect intact and fill water by the pipe when you see both sides going to be full you put in your tank sure works.

----------


## felix_fx2

The 1st time I used my current 2213, the canister body was not filled with cr.
I simply sucked till the water started to siphon. Then let gravity fill the canister up. 

I was using double taps, so easy too. Just off the valve when it start to flow out and attached it back.

----------


## StanChung

Sucking is the best way. haha Just make sure there's no water in the canister or hose.  :Grin:

----------


## dc88

One way I did to check leak (and also priming the canister) :

(1) Canister without water, connect inlet tube to tank. Connect outlet to a short length of tube with the Ehiem coupling valve.
(2) Use a bellow hand pump (those made for pumping balloon or swimming float, yellow color, with a red and a blue connector, use the end that is sucking air, probably the red end) connect this to the outlet tube valve and prime the canister.


(3) water should start flowing into the canister. Remove the hand pump.
(4) you should able to feel the air coming out from the canister outlet valve (put your thumb over it).
(5) Use your thumb to block the outlet valve, you should feel air pressure building up inside the canister. If there is any leak at the canister you can hear hissing sound when you block the outlet (as air is escaping from the leak area); or if you don't feel the air pressure even with water flowing in then the leak is very serious.
(6) if there is no leak, continue fill till water about to come out from the out let valve, turn the valve off. Connect to tank, open all the valves and turn on the switch.

First suspect of the leak usually is the gasket ring either not seating proper (re-seat it), or is already aged (lost its elasticity, time to change a new ring)

----------


## ZackZhou

> One way I did to check leak (and also priming the canister) :
> 
> (1) Canister without water, connect inlet tube to tank. Connect outlet to a short length of tube with the Ehiem coupling valve.
> (2) Use a bellow hand pump (those made for pumping balloon or swimming float, yellow color, with a red and a blue connector, use the end that is sucking air, probably the red end) connect this to the outlet tube valve and prime the canister.
> 
> 
> (3) water should start flowing into the canister. Remove the hand pump.
> (4) you should able to feel the air coming out from the canister outlet valve (put your thumb over it).
> (5) Use your thumb to block the outlet valve, you should feel air pressure building up inside the canister. If there is any leak at the canister you can hear hissing sound when you block the outlet (as air is escaping from the leak area); or if you don't feel the air pressure even with water flowing in then the leak is very serious.
> ...


Good way of checking for leaks in a cannister. However, I don't think spoiled/aged gasket ring will cause a leak in the canister. Once I even took off one of the gasket ring from one tray from a 2026 and it still runs perfectly. Haha

----------


## felix_fx2

Where can still find the balloon blower.
Very old school, is there a like button haha.

----------


## ralliart12

@xconnect, Robert & felix:

Yup, I was indeed pouring water too aggressively into the _general_ area around the inlet/outlet holes of the top cover. When I conducted my _2nd_ (leak) test the night before, I tried topping up the canister _very gingerly_ via the inlet hole *only* (until the canister is almost full); & connected the inlet & outlet rubber hoses to fill up any remaining capacity via the inlet _hose_ *only*, I was able to have the filter up & running with no issue (water leaking) for a long time.

So it appears the folly is on my part, i.e. remembering *wrongly* that I can top up the canister completely via pouring water blatantly into that general cavity around the inlet/outlet holes.

@dc88:

Thanks for the thorough leak test walk-through.

Btw, I saw a type of translucent black hose at Green Chapter earlier today but they couldn't sell it to me because they are not really sure about the price. Anybody has any clue where else I may find translucent (or opaque, even better) hoses which are compatible with Eheim filters?

----------


## ZackZhou

> @xconnect, Robert &amp; felix:
> 
> Yup, I was indeed pouring water too aggressively into the _general_ area around the inlet/outlet holes of the top cover. When I conducted my _2nd_ (leak) test the night before, I tried topping up the canister _very gingerly_ via the inlet hole *only* (until the canister is almost full); &amp; connected the inlet &amp; outlet rubber hoses to fill up any remaining capacity via the inlet _hose_ *only*, I was able to have the filter up &amp; running with no issue (water leaking) for a long time.
> 
> So it appears the folly is on my part, i.e. remembering *wrongly* that I can top up the canister completely via pouring water blatantly into that general cavity around the inlet/outlet holes.
> 
> @dc88:
> 
> Thanks for the thorough leak test walk-through.
> ...


Get the Ada piping from roger (fishybusiness) if you have enough vitamin M.  :Smile:

----------


## G&A Associates

Hi ralliart12,
Your inbox is full..trying to send the relevant information for your references

----------


## ZackZhou

> Hi ralliart12,
> Your inbox is full..trying to send the relevant information for your references


Hey G&amp;A, 
You have sent me pms regarding ans tank. However, I tried replying you but the reply can't seem to get pass thou. 
Just a short reply here, the word 'yiding' was print at the left side of the front glass. However, I think the current batch doesn't have anymore. 

Sorry TS for being irrelevant about the post.

----------


## G&A Associates

> Hey G&amp;A, 
> You have sent me pms regarding ans tank. However, I tried replying you but the reply can't seem to get pass thou. 
> Just a short reply here, the word 'yiding' was print at the left side of the front glass. However, I think the current batch doesn't have anymore. 
> 
> Sorry TS for being irrelevant about the post.


Thanks..
Your are absolutely right, Nanyang selling one ANS tank without any relevant logo..
Sorry for the side track..

----------


## ralliart12

> Hi ralliart12,
> Your inbox is full..trying to send the relevant information for your references


Oops sorry; cleared my inbox.

----------


## ralliart12

> Hi ralliart12,
> Your inbox is full..trying to send the relevant information for your references


Hi, may I check with you _if_ this is the _translucent black_ filter hose you were trying to poing out to me in our PM-conversation?:



Or is the version you bought, _even darker_?

----------


## G&A Associates

> Hi, may I check with you _if_ this is the _translucent black_ filter hose you were trying to poing out to me in our PM-conversation?:
> 
> 
> 
> Or is the version you bought, _even darker_?


Yes I bought both 12mm and 16mm..

----------


## Cyberkinetic

Hi everyone,

I know I shouldnt be thinking about it so soon but Ive a 10gallon tank currently(setup 1.5months ago) and Im exploring the possibility of changing the current HOB(Fluval C3) to a Eheim canister filter.  :Confused: 

From the info that Ive read on AQ and other forums, apparently, a Classic 2213 will be more than sufficient for me. However I am also quite frustrated about constant upgrading and changing of equipment which costs quite a bit. I am secretly planning to upgrade my tank to a bigger one, probably 2-3 feet probably by end of the year or early next year. As such, in my search for a Eheim filter which is able to support a bigger tank, the Classic 2215 also comes into the picture as well as the Pro 2224. 

The advantages of the Classic as mentioned by most people seemed to be on the minimalist approach(less parts, less areas for failure). However I realise that if I were to get the Classic, the double-taps seemed to be a necessity as well. That adds to the cost on top of the bio media which is needed.

The Pro 2224 caught my attention firstly was the price which isnt really too much more than the 2215(if factoring in 2x double taps, since the 2224 comes with integrated ones already). Also the power of 8w versus 2215s 15w seemed to be a welcomed feature. Cant really get confirmation yet on whether the Pro 2224 comes with bio media or not(if so, then its a no brainer), I was checking out the price on GC and Fresh n Marine. Something mentioned about media included although it seemed to be only the sponges and not the CR or balls etc. 

***Of course, I am assuming that the double taps allows me to control the flow of the output in order not to concuss my fishes with the full power of the filter. Which I assume is possible from what I've been reading so far on the web.***

One concern I have is about the surface agitation for the Eheim filters using the rain bar. Does it mean that in order to get maximum gas exchange, I have to setup the rain bar above the water level and aim the water jets into the water creating bubbles? That would create a lot of noise isnt it? Currently the HOB which I have setup, the water slides silently into the tank as I top up the tank water to be in line with the edge of the filter where the water is coming out. Actually I quite like the C3 as I can see the circulation is going to almost all parts of the tank(as I observe how tiny bits of fish food is travelling in the water). Just wondering if I aim the output from the ehiem out of the water, would it be able to achieve the same circulation? Then again, if I put the whole outlet underneath the water level, that wouldnt have the gas exchange and Im not sure if my fishes will make it during the night time. 

Any kind advice or comments from anyone? Many thanks in advance.

----------


## xconnect.

For my 2224 i put its outlet to my extended ehiem installation kit which span the whole two feet shrimp tank. For me I use it as just a biological filtering equipment so I point the rain bar outwards abit for some water flow.for me filter outlet for oxygen not effective I use bubble stone for my shrimps and I locate the stone where I find stagnant water in my tank for water flow and efficient oxygen distributing.What I find about the classics is that "nothing can go wrong "as the water flows from the bottom to top or the other way round I forget.however for 2224 if the rubber oring is loose it may cause the water to "mix" and this factor may compromise the biological filtering effiency.

----------


## Cyberkinetic

Just got myself a 2224 last night. Can't resist the temptation. Will set it up this weekend.  :Smile:  

Does anyone know which fish shop has the most eheim accessories in Singapore ? Looking for the prefilter which attaches to the inlet pipe. Thanks.

----------


## xconnect.

No doubt us Qian hu Singapore. If not seaview also can.

----------


## ralliart12

> Yes I bought both 12mm and 16mm..


But don't you find it not "black/opaque" enough? I figure the coloring is equally as "intense" as the default green ones, which leads me to suspect, algae (& grime) will still grow on the inner surface after some time.

I wonder if I can find a version that is just translucent enough to see if anything is choking water flow (or trapped livestock) but otherwise almost opaque  :Roll Eyes: 




> ...Cant really get confirmation yet on whether the Pro 2224 comes with bio media or not(if so, then its a no brainer), I was checking out the price on GC and Fresh n Marine. Something mentioned about media included although it seemed to be only the sponges and not the CR or balls etc...


Yes, it does come with 2 types of media (I posted a photo of the 2 types of "stock" media) here: link.




> ...***Of course, I am assuming that the double taps allows me to control the flow of the output in order not to concuss my fishes with the full power of the filter. Which I assume is possible from what I've been reading so far on the web.***...


Do note: if you wish to control the flowrate using the integrated double-taps, according to 2224's instruction manual, you should only use one of the taps to restrict: link.




> ...One concern I have is about the surface agitation for the Eheim filters using the rain bar. Does it mean that in order to get maximum gas exchange, I have to setup the rain bar above the water level and aim the water jets into the water creating bubbles? That would create a lot of noise isnt it?...


Actually, if you are talking about maximising your gas exchange, you can also have your rainbar all the way at the bottom of the tank, with its array of holes pointing upwards, i.e. streaming water from the bottom towards the water surface at the top. But I don't think many people do this for asthetic purposes.

That is actually how I process my tap water, i.e. I have a wavemaker that is attached onto the bottom of the pail & pointing directly upwards.

& yes, if your outlet is outside the water body & jetting the water streams downwards, not only will you have to contend with the noise, but the splashes will be around your tank area also.




> ...Just wondering if I aim the output from the ehiem out of the water, would it be able to achieve the same circulation?...


Do not forget, when setting up tank flow patterns, your inlet, i.e. the point where the water is "pulled", plays a part _also_.




> ...Then again, if I put the whole outlet underneath the water level, that wouldnt have the gas exchange and Im not sure if my fishes will make it during the night time...


As long as there is *some* surface agitation, I _believe_ you need not worry about this. I'm also eager to hear comments from planted tank owners with _extremely dense_ planted setups that contains fishes.




> ...to my extended ehiem installation kit...


Off-topic a bit: do you use this kit to do your priming after filter maintenance?




> ...however for 2224 if the rubber oring is loose it may cause the water to "mix" and this factor may compromise the biological filtering effiency.


At which spot will the mixing of water occur?




> ...however for 2224 if the rubber oring is loose it may cause the water to "mix" and this factor may compromise the biological filtering effiency.


Typically how long does the pair of O-ring last? How do we judge if it is too loose until unserviceable?




> ...Looking for the prefilter which attaches to the inlet pipe. Thanks.


You looking for this specifically?:

----------


## Cyberkinetic

Hi ralliart12,

thanks for the reply. 

The set I got has the Eheim Mech and Substratpro media. The prefilter I am looking at is this:
eheim-4004320-vorfilter-3_z4.jpg
I suppose I can find and diy a foam filter around the inlet pipe, but just wondering if this is available, it will save me some effort/time on doing that. Looks nicer too I think.  :Smile: 

I can't figure out what do you mean by the rainbar at the bottom of the tank pointing up. You mean put it near the bottom of the tank like an air tube and then aiming the water jets straight up? Meaning instead of an air tube which forms a curtain of air bubbles, I now have a wall of water jets shooting up ? I am assuming the water jets do not break the water surface right? Else it becomes a fountain show.  :Grin:  Does this helps with gas exchange?

----------


## xconnect.

My eheim is installation kit number two I combine two sets and made a long grey rain bar very nice but expensive abit 
Oring usually one to two years. to test is to see if it is To hard and hard to put back to the basket.it is the basket part that the water will mix. For my priming my 2224 just start no need effort.just need to fill the canister with water.

----------


## xconnect.

@ cyberkinectics bro that will be expensive prefilter I got a DIY version of it if you are interested I can DIY foc for you as I got spare. Watsapp me at 96701405

----------


## polyho

What is the difference between pro 3 and pro 3e? Which one is better for a 5 ft tank?

----------


## xconnect.

Pro three e you can control water flow with a few touch of button and you can see a filter maintenance meter. Pro three is just a bigger canister filter. Also price quite big difference.

----------


## ralliart12

> Hi ralliart12,
> 
> thanks for the reply. 
> 
> The set I got has the Eheim Mech and Substratpro media...


Yup, we got the _same_ set (I have 2 units of 2224, bought far apart; looks like they have not changed the stock media being offered).





> ...The prefilter I am looking at is this:
> eheim-4004320-vorfilter-3_z4.jpg
> I suppose I can find and diy a foam filter around the inlet pipe, but just wondering if this is available, it will save me some effort/time on doing that. Looks nicer too I think. ...


Woah, that is a big pre-filter. & it will take up a lot of space inside your current tank, I suppose. If you intend to have a big pre-filter, why not have it external of the tank?

Foam & stainless steel filter guards are readily available (GC does sell both versions; stainless steel versions can be found at JZX & C328 too), & I believe these filter guards will be way cheaper than the pre-filter above. Of course, you can also cut a flat piece of foam & secure it around your filter inlet too.




> I can't figure out what do you mean by the rainbar at the bottom of the tank pointing up. You mean put it near the bottom of the tank like an air tube and then aiming the water jets straight up? Meaning instead of an air tube which forms a curtain of air bubbles, I now have a wall of water jets shooting up ? I am assuming the water jets do not break the water surface right? Else it becomes a fountain show.  Does this helps with gas exchange?


Actually to be specific, when I mentioned this, I was talking within the context of maximising gas exchange for the tank water body.

Anyway, yup, you captured roughly what I mean; the only nuance is that the rain bar should not be jetting directly up but rather, its array of holes should be angled approximately diagonally across the length of the tank. This will bring the water at the bottom of the tank rapidly to the water surface for gas exchange.

If you are deploying your 2224 (with media) in a standard 2-footer & not letting the holes face directly up, I doubt the water jets will break the surface.

But I doubt many people do this, because it looks "funny"; hence I only brought it up as maximising air exchange (_specifically_) was brought up.




> My eheim is installation kit number two I combine two sets and made a long grey rain bar very nice but expensive abit...


Sounds lovely, I have a few boxes of Eheim Installation Kits _#1_ & _#2_ lying around. I may get the opportunity to play with them yet.




> ...Oring usually one to two years. to test is to see if it is To hard and hard to put back to the basket...


Oh, I didn't realise you were talking about the _larger ones_ attached to the media basket! I thought you were talking about the _small red_ ones nearer to the integrated double-taps-component! But the _larger black_ ones are also called O-rings?




> ...it is the basket part that the water will mix...


I still don't get it: what's wrong/bad with letting the incoming water flow mix with the existing water body in the canister?




> ...For my priming my 2224 just start no need effort.just need to fill the canister with water.


I see; I brought it up as I saw in the 2224 instruction manual that it (installation kits) can be used to perform priming.

----------


## Cyberkinetic

Hi bro ralliart12,

thanks for answering in such detailed format!

I pretty much decided not to go for the Eheim original internal pre-filter. Will just diy by plugging a round foam piece at the opening of the inlet pipe as I did with my Fluval C3. Bought extras then. 

As for the placement of the rainbar, I think I'll just place it near the water surface(but underneath the surface). I saw some similar green rainbar-like pipings at C328, thinking to buy one and do trial of drilling additional holes to spread the water output(pointing in different angles and directions) such that the water circulates more evenly to all parts of my tank. Not so keen to practice drilling on the original pipe. haha... since I'm not even sure I can drill properly. haha

----------


## aquarius

Actually you can use those Soldering Iron "pen" to make holes instead of drilling.

----------


## Cyberkinetic

Bro Aquarius,

that's a good idea.. haha.. provided I can get one.. or maybe just heat up a nail and do that. haha.. 

Either way, think i will play with a oem tube first. haha

Cheers.

----------


## polyho

May I ask from experience which one has a better flow rate? Eheim 2217 or Eheim 2075?

----------


## aquarius

Cyberkinetic ~ You can buy them at hardware or DIY shops.

----------


## Cyberkinetic

Noted. What I meant was I didn't have one and to buy a soldering iron just to poke a couple of holes, not very cost effective. 

But thanks anyway.  :Smile:  




> Cyberkinetic ~ You can buy them at hardware or DIY shops.

----------


## ralliart12

> ...I pretty much decided not to go for the Eheim original internal pre-filter. Will just diy by plugging a round foam piece at the opening of the inlet pipe as I did with my Fluval C3. Bought extras then...


If I were to DIY this, I will make the layer of foam as thin as possible, i.e. enough to _prevent_ the chunky bits of debris from entering my filter, but not too much to reduce flow rate by a lot.




> ...As for the placement of the rainbar, I think I'll just place it near the water surface(but underneath the surface). I saw some similar green rainbar-like pipings at C328, thinking to buy one and do trial of drilling additional holes to spread the water output(pointing in different angles and directions) such that the water circulates more evenly to all parts of my tank. Not so keen to practice drilling on the original pipe. haha... since I'm not even sure I can drill properly. haha


I intend to deploy an Eheim Installation Kit 2 for my outflow. I believe (but can't confirm) that the rainbar portion of Kit 2 is actually 3 separate pieces connected together. Which means the array of holes can actually be aimed at different angles by twisting each piece at the joints. This is in fact, how I intend to create different-angled streams of outflow in my eventual setup.

----------


## Cyberkinetic

Think I have more time to research as my plan to transit this weekend will be delayed. Fishes are sick(not sure fungus or other types of growth). Anyway have started a separate thread on that.  :Sad: 

I think it makes more sense to deploy the new filter only after I get them well again(although my success factor so far is a big fat zero). 

Just when I thought things were beginning to stabilize.  :Exasperated: 




> If I were to DIY this, I will make the layer of foam as thin as possible, i.e. enough to _prevent_ the chunky bits of debris from entering my filter, but not too much to reduce flow rate by a lot.
> 
> I intend to deploy an Eheim Installation Kit 2 for my outflow. I believe (but can't confirm) that the rainbar portion of Kit 2 is actually 3 separate pieces connected together. Which means the array of holes can actually be aimed at different angles by twisting each piece at the joints. This is in fact, how I intend to create different-angled streams of outflow in my eventual setup.

----------


## felix_fx2

Take them out and put in quarantine tank. Fix there  :Smile: 

I saw some plants not doing well. Staurogyne?

----------


## Cyberkinetic

I tried and failed to net the corys yesterday. Just spent another hour and FINALLY got them! Messed up some plants in the process..  :Mad:  

Yeah, staurogyne.. Literally dying left right center now.. Took them all out as well..I suspect the decaying leaves and stalks are polluting my water .. Think will do partial water change again tomorrow.water still slightly murky. 

I was checking out a APA brand prefilter at Seaview earlier. Trying to find out if it fits my 2224, but apparently it only fits if the tubing from 2224 is connected without the double taps. End up didn't buy as the guy I spoke to wasn't that helpful. trying to ask if there's any converters of sort.

----------


## xconnect.

What kind of converter you mean ? From bigger to smaller or same size. In Both ways got you just need to look hard. In c328 or Polyart

----------


## Rexxer

Can I check with you guys on restarting the 2213? I started my tank 3weeks back but came back from overseas trip and got whole tank of hair algae. So I suck out all water and clean the tank(the 2213 is off n left untouch). The tank is left blackout for 2 days. Today I reflooded the tank and on the filter. But there's air bubbles coming from inside the canister. My friend told me to keep shaking the canister to remove the air bubbles. But I realize that no matter how much I shake, there will still be air bubbles coming out. 
1) is it ok for air bubbles to keep coming out when I shake the canister?
2) how do I know that theres no air lock inside the canister?
3) how do I know if everything is running ok?

TIA bros

----------


## Cyberkinetic

The quick release from the APA prefilter is 16mm, although I can use the APA prefilter without the quick release by connecting directly to the prefilter, but that will make maintenance a chore I suppose. There's a lever on the quick release which I think operates like those double taps on the eheims. So I thought of getting those converters which connects a 16mm on one end and 12mm on the other. So the setup will be:
1) Eheim inlet pipe -> 12mm tubing -> converter -> 16mm tubing -> quick release -> input of prefilter.
2) Prefilter outlet -> quick release -> 16mm -> converter -> 12mm tubing -> Eheim outlet pipe

I suppose they will have it in C328 or Polyart... so guess it will be next week after work for another visit there.  :Smile: 





> What kind of converter you mean ? From bigger to smaller or same size. In Both ways got you just need to look hard. In c328 or Polyart

----------


## Catmarinesg

Hi I am thinking of getting Eheim canister either 2036 or 2236 for my 2.5 ft tank. It maybe slightly overkill but if I do upgrade I can still use the filter.
Please advise what is the difference between the Ecco n Ecco pro apart from the pre filter in 2036. I thinking Ecco would be better as it has more media volume over the Ecco pro

Thaknks for your comments

----------


## Techno

I'm trying to get this old Eheim Pro II 2028 to work. Dumb thing keeps leaking. It's not the primer O-ring, because I've already replaced that. Will try the gasket sealing o-ring next...

Let's say I want a new filter for a 4x2x2, but only half filled. It's for a turtle tank. Should I get a Classic 2217 or Pro3 2073?

----------


## xconnect.

techno bro where do you live maybe i can fix your 2028 or help you indentify as i just revived a 40$ 5 year old unused 2026 with $6.50 cents ^^.saved tons
i student so i these few days got free time ^^

----------


## xconnect.

text me or watsapp at 96701405

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## Catmarinesg

Hi Bro Cyberkinetis,
I too am looking for the Eheim Pre Filter but no success so far. However, I did find the attached at Seaview.

Attachment 31713

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## Techno

> techno bro where do you live maybe i can fix your 2028 or help you indentify as i just revived a 40$ 5 year old unused 2026 with $6.50 cents ^^.saved tons
> i student so i these few days got free time ^^


Hi,

thanks for the offer. I replaced the sealing gasket and it has stopped leaking. The thing is so tight, its hard to put the top back on. 

Now new problem: when all's connected with Installation Set 1 and shepherd's crook, can't get the flow moving. When I bring the canister with only hoses to the bathroom, i can get the flow going _sometimes_ by sucking on the outlet...argh.

The priming button's kind of useless and I'm not using it.

----------


## Techno

Just curious, anyone tried dyeing their eheim hoses? I'm looking at those small bottles at Home-Fix DIY.

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## felix_fx2

Dye? Or using alternate choices for pipe?
Lfs sells those fauna friendly ones, hardware shop ones might not be, if used long term chemicals may leach into the water.

But then again, you mention small bottle. So the above becomes totally not inline with what your saying.

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## xconnect.

My priming button amazingly still works so I used it once then the filter started. The feeling is just priceless man when I revived this 5 year old filter
For my setup I use the original inlet with a DIY sponge protector to prevent shrimplets being sucked in. Outlet is a combined eheim installation 2 kits long rain bar

----------


## xconnect.

> Just curious, anyone tried dyeing their eheim hoses? I'm looking at those small bottles at Home-Fix DIY.


I'm super curious what do you mean by dye? You want customise the colour of the pipe?

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## felix_fx2

> I'm super curious what do you mean by dye? You want customise the colour of the pipe?


If just color only, PVC or SS pipes best.  :Smile:

----------


## Techno

Sorry, I meant clothing dye from HomeFix DIY. The last time I used those dyes was back in Secondary School art class?? Not sure if they're strong enough for the Eheim hoses  :Laughing: 

And I may have stumbled upon the method to prime the ProII 2028 already. Need a few more attempts to see if the method's good enough.

----------


## Cyberkinetic

Finally found time to setup my 2224 today!  :Smile:  
Spent more time considering how/what to put in the two holders than the actual connections of piping and tubings! 
Eventually found that the top compartment after putting the 1L SubstratPro that comes with the filter, still got some space and fitted the 250 ml of Matrix in my existing HOB filter. 
The priming was easier than expected... I just suck on the output hose until water appears from the hose then I shut both the input and output levers. Connect the hose to the rain bar, turn on the power, that's it! LOL
I had towels underneath the filter and all around the tank to standby in case of spillage but none happened thankfully.
Totally silent, even putting my hands on the filter, no vibration and no sound! 
The output on full blast was a little strong for my 10 gallon tank so I adjusted the output lever to 50%, works perfectly!
Surprised how easy it was to setup, although the manual wasn't of much help. Anyway, happy happy happy!  :Smile:

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## felix_fx2

Ehiem is good.
More silent then my atman (which is already low noise.)

Comparison between cf1200 and 2213.

If you have any fear always can add those square base container as optional container.
Good when cleaning filter, you can't wet the floor.

----------


## Cyberkinetic

Yeah, I am actually placing it inside a Toyogo box right now.  :Grin:  Just in case anything were to happen. 

I think the only issue I had is on the placement of the rainbar... As I tried to keep the water level high, about 1cm from the top of the tank, and I kept the rainbar positioned in such a way where the water output is just skimming the surface, by the end of the day when I am hope, with water evaporation, the holes will be above the water level and sometimes if it's high enough, I get some water spray on the floor in front of the tank due to the agitation created by the water output. Not a big issue, just have to tweak the placement of the rainbar and adjustment of the output pressure(which is running at <50% currently). 

Other than that still super pleased with the purchase. The wifey is certainly happy as she commented to her friend the other day that i don't spend as much time fiddling with the tank(previously on HOB filter and I was washing the filter pads etc). Anything that makes the wifey happy and keep her attention away from the tank is a GOOD thing...  :Laughing:

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## mighty_reds_73

Always been a fan of Eheim filters - had used 2028 and 2080 models without any problems for the last 3-4 years.

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## astro

http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum...highlight=2213

Ehiem fans, pls help me on the above thread pls. Thank you

----------


## Sharkfin

Hi guys,


I'm starting a heavily planted tank, measuring 3ft by 1.5ft by 1.5ft. 

1) What would be the best Eheim filter to use. 

2) Do the media comes along when i buy the filter. If not, any preferred set ups?

3) Is the filter noisy?

4) What do we have to look out to ensure its compatible to future purchases of chillers? As in which hp would be suitable to the filter?


Appreciate advice.

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## xconnect.

1)I would recommend 2217 or eXperience 350 eheim filter.
2)Chiller I'm not sure .
3)Eheim filters have " have pin drop silence" so you won't need to worry.
4)the pipe outlet of chillier and filter is the same to prevent any inconvenience.

----------


## ralliart12

Hi fellows. I have some questions regarding Eheim filters:

Question 1: how come some Eheim external filters have an additional _filter circulation_ specification in addition to pump output while most other models do not have this specification, i.e. the Pro II 2028?

Question 2a: Is the "_auto valve release_" in the Pro II series the same thing as the "_integrated shut-off taps_" in the Pro series?

Question 2b: how much is a model 2026 approximately, locally? Option to purchase without media, exist?

Question 2c: *Besides* the "one-action priming aid" & the "maintenance indicator", can anybody explain to me *why* folks will buy the Pro II series over the Pro series? I observed that the 2 highest-end models of the Pro series can match the only 2 models in the Pro II series in terms of flow rate & filter volume (_in fact, match exactly: 4.9 & 7.3 litres of filter volume; 950 & 1050 l/h_)?

Question 3a: What's so special about the _wet/dry_ filters of Eheim?

Question 3b: Why can they only use their own substrate pro media (_stated explicitly on their model website; Eheim doesn't state this explicitly for their other models_)?

Question 3c: Are they like extremely expensive?

----------


## xconnect.

Question 1 this is only available for 2260,2078 3e 2076 3e. Because you can adjust the rotation of the impeller.by changing the magnetism Of the motor. Not by restricting the flow of filter.
Question 2a Yes it is the same thing
Question 2b as pro two series is a very old model it may not be available anymore. BUT I saw seaview got. But with media.Price I can't remember.
Question 2c from what you describe that is the only difference however some people including me with pro two has encountered more problems compared to pro series. Mainly leaking problems.
Hence me owning a 2026 and a 2224 old version.i will recommend you to get eheim eXperience filter aka eheim pro new version.
Question 3a the filter will like drain the water in the canister then fill the canister with water agian automatically this is recommended for saltwater setup.
Question 3b they say use their own substrate is because thier substrate pro can help keep the natural bb inside.While the filter cycle is happening.
Question 3c much more expensive.but not sure how much.

----------


## ralliart12

> Question 1 this is only available for 2260,2078 3e 2076 3e. Because you can adjust the rotation of the impeller.by changing the magnetism Of the motor. Not by restricting the flow of filter...


Even so, shouldn't the net result be an impact against the pump output of the filter, i.e. overall "flow-rate"? Expressing 2 figures like this seems confusing.

Question 4: In other words, for the Pro II 2028, I should read it as "flow rate reducible to 750l/h"?




> Question 2b as pro two series is a very old model it may not be available anymore. BUT I saw seaview got. But with media.Price I can't remember...


Oh, I didn't realize the 2026 & 2028 are very old models.

Question 5: Is there any new series replacing the Pro II series?




> ...however some people including me with pro two has encountered more problems compared to pro series. Mainly leaking problems.
> Hence me owning a 2026 and a 2224 old version.i will recommend you to get eheim eXperience filter aka eheim pro new version...


The new "eXperience" series resembles the current Pro series, i.e. especially the eXperience 250 (which is almost like a Pro 2224). Thing is, I'm looking for something around 900l/h & the eXperience 250 is a tad too low (700l/h as per the 2224) while the eXperience 350 is a tad too high (1050l/h). The "old" Pro II 2026 is just nice at 950l/h.

Question 6: Is the leaking inherent to the physical design of the Pro II series? What's so difference between the canister of the Pro II versus the Pro series?

Question 7: Maybe I should get a eXperience 350 & stuff it so full of media that its 1050l/h flow rate is slowed down drastically?

----------


## xconnect.

Question 4 sort of...
Question 5 no just have to find old stocks if you can.
Question 6 it is not the designs but the amount of parts involve in keeping the filter water tight. 
Question 7 yeah you should go for that.

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## xconnect.

To add on and the pro 2 having many parts involved in keeping the filter water tight it is hard to troubleshooting the cause.

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## ralliart12

> ...Question 6 it is not the designs but the amount of parts involve in keeping the filter water tight...





> To add on and the pro 2 having many parts involved in keeping the filter water tight it is hard to troubleshooting the cause.


Question 8:
@xconnect, in other words, based on your past experience, I take it you will really recommend _against_ getting any model from the Pro _II_ series?

Question 9a:
In fact, will you say you will rather me either jump 1 series down to get the 2228 (from the Pro series; 1050l/h), or jump 1 series up to get the 2073 (from the Pro III series; 1050l/h)? Because I called up C328 yesterday & the shopkeeper has no idea what the _eXperience_ (_350_) model is, even after I told him that the eXperience is supposed to replace the Pro (222X) series.

Question 9b:
I suppose the eXperience series is either super new (launched not more than a month?) or maybe they are still named the 222X series amongst the shops? Do you know where (locally) I can get the eXperience series you recommended?

Question 10:
Or is the Pro _III_ subjected to the same downside, e.g. too many parts to troubleshoot for leakage, as the Pro _II_ series?




> ...Question 3c much more expensive.but not sure how much.


Hey, I realize the "Eheim Wet and Dry 2227" is going for $340 on Blue Planet SG's site! It's not as (that ridiculously) expensive as I thought? & that 2227 has a 1050l/h flow rate! Anything against using wet/dry filters for planted tanks*?* I read that Tom Barr always use wet/dry filters for his client's tanks (unsure if those clients are always doing planted tanks, though)...

----------


## xconnect.

The experience is still a very new term you tell uncle or lady boss you want 2228. They should understand.
Pro three is as reliable as the pro series because usually when A pro two leaks it is because of that big prime button. It is a big piece of rubber therefore after a few years the rubber will crack and eventually it will leak.and fixing it is 30$. Which is an amount that cannot be ignored.Pro three wise the prim is small so It will last.However the price is a premium too.if you really want the most lasting eheim classic best. I heard of classics of age 19 years old which is older than me.

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## ralliart12

> The experience is still a very new term you tell uncle or lady boss you want 2228. They should understand...


you mean the "new" eXperience series is _nothing more than a "re-naming"_ of the old 222X series? There's nothing different in terms of the physical equipment (from the old 222X series)?




> The experience is still a very new term you tell uncle or lady boss you want 2228. They should understand.
> Pro three is as reliable as the pro series because usually when A pro two leaks it is because of that big prime button. It is a big piece of rubber therefore after a few years the rubber will crack and eventually it will leak.and fixing it is 30$. Which is an amount that cannot be ignored.Pro three wise the prim is small so It will last.However the price is a premium too...


So between 222_8_ & a 20_73_ (both can do 1050l/h), which will you go for/recommend?

Btw, anybody know the approximate price of these 2 models above?

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## Navanod

Hi Ralliart,

Sorry to jump in and look clueless. 
May I clarify how you determined that 900L/H was the flowrate you need for the canister?
Have you estimated your head pressure loss and factored that in?
Are you using the canister to run your chiller as well?

You may wish to take note of the delivery head, HMax, of these canisters as well during comparison.
The 2228 has a HMax of 2.0m while the 2073 stands at 1.8m. This means that the 2228 can handle pressure loss slightly better and hence, have a higher real-life flowrates than the 2073.
However, it also has a much larger media volume, which depending on what you put in and how dirty it gets, may or may not impact the 2228 to the point where it's slight HMax advantage is lost.

IMHO, A good rule of thumb I used would be to estimate a 1/3 loss of flowrate from the media alone so you certainly will not be seeing 900L/H from either of these filters once fully loaded. 

This is certainly not accurate enough for comparing canisters though, so I had decided pretty early in my hobby to go for the model with the highest HMax, followed by the highest flowrate, the Pro3e 2078  :Evil: 
The only canister that can beat it, is the largest of the old classic model (1500XL, or used to be 2260), which technically, is just an Eheim 1260 Universal Pump mounted to a bucket.  :Knockout:

----------


## ralliart12

> Hi Ralliart,
> 
> Sorry to jump in and look clueless...


Please do not stand on ceremony.




> ...May I clarify how you determined that 900L/H was the flowrate you need for the canister?...


I bought a 2224 for my upcoming planted tank. 2224 is clocked at 700l/h on an empty canister. By right, assuming a 50% loss of flow rate from a "normally-filled" canister, the flow rate will be dropped to 3++ l/h.

However, as I read more & more forum posts, i.e. both local & overseas forums, it appears that one can do no harm & indeed more good with high flow rate for planted tanks.

Besides, if I connect more funky stuff to my setup beyond a single chiller, I have more "buffer" flow rate to play with.

Lastly, if I do upgrade a tank, having a more powerful filter, isn't half bad either.

Hence, I decided I need a better filter, i.e. stronger flow rate & if it has a bigger canister volume, even better. & since my (unused) 2224 is clocked at 700l/h, I believe the most common upgrade will clock in at the 950l/h & 1050l/h specifications. I was a bit hesitant to even factor in 1050l/h models, but I suddenly recall I like to pack a crap-load of media into my filters.




> ...Are you using the canister to run your chiller as well?...


Yes.




> ...Have you estimated your head pressure loss and factored that in?...You may wish to take note of the delivery head, HMax, of these canisters as well during comparison...


I have no idea what those terms, i.e. head pressure loss & HMax, are.




> ...The 2228 has a HMax of 2.0m while the 2073 stands at 1.8m. _This means that the 2228 can handle pressure loss slightly better_ and hence, have a higher real-life flowrates than the 2073...


If you don't mind, can you explain why is that so?




> ...However, it also has a much larger media volume, which depending on what you put in and how dirty it gets, may or may not impact the 2228 to the point where it's slight HMax advantage is lost...


Well, I would regard that as a plus-point! Even if the amount of media & amount of clogging removes its slight HMax advantage, isn't it good that the 2228 has that advantage to _begin with_?




> ...IMHO, A good rule of thumb I used would be to estimate a 1/3 loss of flowrate from the media alone so you certainly will not be seeing 900L/H from either of these filters once fully loaded...


Exactly. Actually when I purchase equipment, I always tell myself the specifications were measured in an "optimum" environment & real-life may not be optimal.




> ...This is certainly not accurate enough for comparing canisters though, so I had decided pretty early in my hobby to go for the model with the highest HMax, followed by the highest flowrate, the Pro3e 2078 
> The only canister that can beat it, is the largest of the old classic model (1500XL, or used to be 2260), which technically, is just an Eheim 1260 Universal Pump mounted to a bucket.


I would, but then I'm not made of cash (besides, I need to get another LED fixture soon). So Navanod, in my scenario, it seems you have convinced me to get the 2228 instead of the 2073? Any idea the approximate price of the 2228?

UPDATE: I was just told by C328 auntie that the 2228 is discontinued? & replaced by 2028, and after 15 years (unsure if I heard her correctly here), even the 2028 is replaced by 2075?!

_But, now that this updated information is presented to me, should I get the 2073 instead? I'm not sure if I know how to "tune down" the 1250l/h rate of the 2075 (the 2073 is rated at 1050l/h)..._

----------


## Navanod

> Please do not stand on ceremony.
> 
> I bought a 2224 for my upcoming planted tank. 2224 is clocked at 700l/h on an empty canister. By right, assuming a 50% loss of flow rate from a "normally-filled" canister, the flow rate will be dropped to 3++ l/h.
> 
> However, as I read more & more forum posts, i.e. both local & overseas forums, it appears that one can do no harm & indeed more good with high flow rate for planted tanks.
> 
> Besides, if I connect more funky stuff to my setup beyond a single chiller, I have more "buffer" flow rate to play with.
> 
> Lastly, if I do upgrade a tank, having a more powerful filter, isn't half bad either.
> ...


Indeed. Buy once, cry once.
Eheim tends to have a better "filled up" flowrate than ye olde China brand canisters although a 50% is still a good conservative estimate, especially if you liked packing in the media, putting prefilters and sponge at the inlet and not having to clean the thing every 2 months.




> Yes.


Chillers are the worst flow killer. I'm not sure if its related to brand design, or simply HP rating (where they'll pack more cooling coils into the thing, which kills more flow) but even the so called best brand Arctica chiller (1/4hp) easily killed most of the flow from an Eheim compact 5000+, which has a 3.0m HMax and 5000L/H flowrate. The other half of the flow was lost to the height of the tank (powerheads do not benefit from the syphon of the returning water into the sump, unlike canisters, so they have to overcome all the gravity to pump up to the tank) and I ended up having to throw in another powerhead (1260) just to cater to the chiller.
Canisters, although able to ignore much of the height/gravity issue, generally do not perform well against a chiller either. Be prepared to lose anywhere from 1.5m to 2.0m of head pressure from its HMax.




> I have no idea what those terms, i.e. head pressure loss & HMax, are. If you don't mind, can you explain why is that so?


Lets see if I can explain this.
Hmax (Max head pressure of the pump) is the height at which, if we were to attach a vertical hose that runs straight up into the sky, with no other resistance, no hose wall friction and no media, that the pump can pump water up to. i.e, simply gravity+weight of water vs the force of the pump.
This value, has an inverse relationship with max flowrate. At 0m (i.e no resistance) you get max flowrate. You'll only see this flowrate if you simply let the pump spray water straight out like a fountain.
As more resistance gets added, such as media, length of hose, rainbar, sponge prefilters etc, which somehow must be converted to a head loss value (which is how much height it would be in the gravity + water vs pump power equation, don't ask me how), the flowrate decreased in a linear fashion.
In other words, it follows a formula:

Actual flow = Maxflow/Hmax x (Hmax-Head loss)

A highflow pump with a low HMax would see its flowrate fall rapidly when presented with resistance, while a moderate flowrate pump with a high Hmax will have a more gentle slope in the flowrate decline.
An analogy would be that the flowrate is like the top speed of a car, while the Hmax is the horsepower (or torque). A sports car may go at crazy speed but cannot pull much weight without slowing down significantly. A truck cannot go very fast but can pull alot of weight with minimal loss of speed.




> Well, I would regard that as a plus-point! Even if the amount of media & amount of clogging removes its slight HMax advantage, isn't it good that the 2228 has that advantage to _begin with_?


Well yes! At a slight cost of 4W more electricity consumption and 4W more heat dump into the water! haha!




> Exactly. Actually when I purchase equipment, I always tell myself the specifications were measured in an "optimum" environment & real-life may not be optimal.


Which means that your 900L/H is not the eventual flowrate you want, but rather the max flowrate that you believe will give you enough buffer. That's good.




> I would, but then I'm not made of cash (besides, I need to get another LED fixture soon). So Navanod, in my scenario, it seems you have convinced me to get the 2228 instead of the 2073? Any idea the approximate price of the 2228?
> 
> UPDATE: I was just told by C328 auntie that the 2228 is discontinued? & replaced by 2028, and after 15 years (unsure if I heard her correctly here), even the 2028 is replaced by 2075?!
> 
> _But, now that this updated information is presented to me, should I get the 2073 instead? I'm not sure if I know how to "tune down" the 1250l/h rate of the 2075 (the 2073 is rated at 1050l/h)..._


Pound for pound and dollar for dollar, the 2228 is certainly the one I would recommend. It's a proven workhorse and I'm still keeping my first 2226 canister for rainy days.
The Pro3 does come with certain features that cannot be directly taken into account in this flowrate vs cost equation. For one, it comes with a built in prefilter top tray that makes cleaning much less troublesome. Water will hit this tray first and goes through a sponge before flowing all the way down to the bottom (via a bypass pipe, as per normal in most canisters), before coming back up and passing through all the layers of media and the final fine wool filter at the top. In this way, simply removing this pre-filter tray for washing will expose the fine wool for changing at the same time which in most cases will remove almost 80% of the crap that's choking the canister.
The 2228 (and Pro 2s) does not have this and if you choose to stick a piece of prefilter sponge in that empty space at the bottom of the canister, it'll be a pain to access. If you do not care for prefilters (or have an external one), then it'll not matter to you.

The bypass pipe is also a standalone part at one corner of the canister body, rather than a linked series of holes on each of the filter trays. This eliminates the need to keep changing the big rubber seals on each media trays (for some reason, these get hard and misshapen in less than a year, even when thoroughly greased) and lessens the chances of water leaking and bypassing the trays on the way down. Less alignment issues too.

Other than that, there's the obvious priming/air purging lever on the Pro 3 which may or may not matter to you.

As for the C328 auntie's claims, I suggest you give a call to other shops to verify (Qian Hu will be the authority on this, since they distribute the brand). I'm quite sure I still see 2228's being sold at certain places. Since Eheim is not discontinuing the line (just renaming), spare parts should still be available in the near future.

----------


## ralliart12

> Indeed. Buy once, cry once.
> Eheim tends to have a better "filled up" flowrate than ye olde China brand canisters although a 50% is still a good conservative estimate, especially if you liked packing in the media, putting prefilters and sponge at the inlet and not having to clean the thing every 2 months...


That's what I've heard. I wonder if it is due to the _good seal_ they are able to sustain on their canister?




> ...Chillers are the worst flow killer. I'm not sure if its related to brand design, or simply HP rating (where they'll pack more cooling coils into the thing, which kills more flow) but even the so called best brand Arctica chiller (1/4hp) easily killed most of the flow from an Eheim compact 5000+, which has a 3.0m HMax and 5000L/H flowrate...


Actually I will think that the chiller is just a big "empty" sealed container for water to flow through right? By right they should cause no "obstruction" to the flowing water, no? The electronics inside the chiller do not touch the water, right?




> ...The other half of the flow was lost to the height of the tank (powerheads do not benefit from the syphon of the returning water into the sump, unlike canisters, so they have to overcome all the gravity to pump up to the tank) and I ended up having to throw in another powerhead (1260) just to cater to the chiller.
> Canisters, although able to ignore much of the height/gravity issue, generally do not perform well against a chiller either. Be prepared to lose anywhere from 1.5m to 2.0m of head pressure from its HMax...


How come canister filters are able to avoid this gravity issue even when they are most commonly placed significantly below the tank? Essentially, isn't there a powerhead inside the canister filter top?




> ...A highflow pump with a low HMax would see its flowrate fall rapidly when presented with resistance, while a moderate flowrate pump with a high Hmax will have a more gentle slope in the flowrate decline.
> An analogy would be that the flowrate is like the top speed of a car, while the Hmax is the horsepower (or torque). A sports car may go at crazy speed but cannot pull much weight without slowing down significantly. A truck cannot go very fast but can pull alot of weight with minimal loss of speed...


Actually this is still very counter-intuitive to me, i.e. I would expect high flow rate = high HMax. I know the analogy in terms of automobiles, i.e. torque versus speed, is factual, but I find that counter-intuitive too. I just never question it.




> ...In this way, simply removing this pre-filter tray for washing will expose the fine wool for changing at the same time which in most cases will remove almost 80% of the crap that's choking the canister...


Actually, an off-topic question: don't people re-use the wool to retain as much beneficial bacteria as possible?




> ...The bypass pipe is also a standalone part at one corner of the canister body, rather than a linked series of holes on each of the filter trays. This eliminates the need to keep changing the big rubber seals on each media trays (for some reason, these get hard and misshapen in less than a year, even when thoroughly greased) and lessens the chances of water leaking and bypassing the trays on the way down. Less alignment issues too...


Yes, I saw this & was pleasantly surprised. Another nice thing about the Pro3-series is that I believe it comes with installation set #1 & #2 out of the box (I think).




> ...Other than that, there's the obvious priming/air purging lever on the Pro 3 which may or may not matter to you...


Is the priming lever the one making the funny "spring-decompressing" sound many users reported?

What does the air-purging lever do?




> ...As for the C328 auntie's claims, I suggest you give a call to other shops to verify (Qian Hu will be the authority on this, since they distribute the brand). I'm quite sure I still see 2228's being sold at certain places. Since Eheim is not discontinuing the line (just renaming), spare parts should still be available in the near future.


Called PetMart & they confirmed the 2228 is discontinued & replaced by the 2075. Called QianHu & they confirmed the 2228 is discontinued too. Guess I have to have a 2075 or 2073 then...so a bit worried about the flow rate of the 2075; I intend to deploy it in a planted 2-foot tank without turning it into a 2-foot washing machine. _Can the 2075 flow rate be tuned down permanently without serious wear to the pump_?

----------


## Navanod

> Actually I will think that the chiller is just a big "empty" sealed container for water to flow through right? By right they should cause no "obstruction" to the flowing water, no? The electronics inside the chiller do not touch the water, right?


Actually, the cooling tank in a chiller is not very big, about the size of a tissue box at best and half packed with cooling coils. The loss of flow is mainly due to 2 factors:

1. The 2 90 degrees elbow in and out of the chiller. 90 degrees turns are very bad for flow, which is why smooth turns/coils or 2 45 degrees elbows are preferred in many designs. Why the Eheim installation kits makes 2 90 degrees turns in it's design is beyond me (but I still like using them, hehe).
2. The sudden expansion (and pressure loss) of entering the larger cooling chamber and the turbulence caused by water having to U-turn upward as well as hitting the cooling coils on the way down and then up.




> How come canister filters are able to avoid this gravity issue even when they are most commonly placed significantly below the tank? Essentially, isn't there a powerhead inside the canister filter top?


The gravity is compensated by the returning water from the tank. The canister, being a closed and pressurized system (as opposed to an opened sump), benefits from the potential energy of the water that is coming back down from the tank, which in turn helps to push water back up. The pump in the canister just has to push water, not pull. Its the same force that lets us siphon water and dirt from the tank during waterchange (without using a pump) and the main reason why we need to purge the air from our canisters to make them work properly.




> Actually this is still very counter-intuitive to me, i.e. I would expect high flow rate = high HMax. I know the analogy in terms of automobiles, i.e. torque versus speed, is factual, but I find that counter-intuitive too. I just never question it.


Sorry. Perhaps my explanation was not very good. High Hmax does help to maintain a high flowrate. However, highflow does not equal high HMax and can exist independently. Flowrate can be increased by having a larger hose diameter and larger impeller blades, without actually increasing Hmax. Increasing HMax on the other hand, may involve the impeller blades being more angled, a better pump chamber design to create acceleration through vortex as well as spinning the impeller at a higher speed. I'm no engineer though, so I cannot explain beyond this  :Laughing: 




> Actually, an off-topic question: don't people re-use the wool to retain as much beneficial bacteria as possible?


The fine filter wool is quite unusable and impossible to wash. It'll actually compress, shrink and flatten with time and the amount of dirt trapped will turn it totally dark brown. You can certainly try to wash it, but it'll no longer keep its shape and upon replacing into the canister, will no longer cover the entire media tray.
Most people leave the job of housing bacteria to the actual bio-media and just toss the wool. Sponges on the other hand, can be washed but is not as effective at trapping fine dirt.




> Yes, I saw this & was pleasantly surprised. Another nice thing about the Pro3-series is that I believe it comes with installation set #1 & #2 out of the box (I think).


Really?? Mine came with the regular greenish rainbar...




> Is the priming lever the one making the funny "spring-decompressing" sound many users reported?
> 
> What does the air-purging lever do?


Its just one lever and it helps with priming and purging air. There is a springy sound yes but that's to be expected since there's a spring? You'll probably have to try it yourself to know how it works.




> Called PetMart & they confirmed the 2228 is discontinued & replaced by the 2075. Called QianHu & they confirmed the 2228 is discontinued too. Guess I have to have a 2075 or 2073 then...so a bit worried about the flow rate of the 2075; I intend to deploy it in a planted 2-foot tank without turning it into a 2-foot washing machine. _Can the 2075 flow rate be tuned down permanently without serious wear to the pump_?


Yikes, I'll have to look when I next visit Seaview. I would expect some stocks to remain unless QH recalled all the remaining Pros?

To reduce the flowrate on the Pro 3, you can partially close the lever that is directly in front of the inlet/outlet hose barbs. Its the one that toggles left and right, can't miss it.
To avoid a washing machine without reducing flowrate, use a longer rainbar (Installation kit helps, just add more rainbar pieces. You can even add 90 degrees elbows and zigzag to slow the water down even more) and aim all the flow at the back glass underwater.

----------


## ralliart12

Any owner of the Pro 3 series knows if this area (_bordered in red_) underneath the top-cover of the _2073_ is supposed to look "_snapped off_"?:

----------


## Cyberkinetic

Hi folks,

need a little help regarding my 2224. I was doing the usual water change routine where I will turn off the filter before doing the water change and powering it up again. 

Got a shock when the filter started giving a loud rattling noise where it was running silent for the past 1 month. I turned it off and on a couple of times before the noise was very much reduced. However there is still a little vibration/noise when I go very close to the filter. Previously when I put my ear to the filter, I can't even detect a thing. 

Just wondering if it's time to clean the filter? I thought it can go for between 3-6 months before requiring a clean up? Of course subject to the tank condition. But it's just been a month since I got it running. 

I opened up the filter and the fine white filter pad does look quite dirty and is a light brownish color. But was not sure if I should do a thorough cleaning from the coarse black filter to the mechanical rings etc... or should I spread it out(ie. wash one compartment each time only)? Or for that matter, what is the sequence, mechanical rings first or fine filter first? 

Also I noticed the sound/vibration goes softer when I turn on the output to the maximum(all these while I've been running on half only) which supports my suspicion that there is too much gunk in the filter which is restricting the flow and making the noises. 

Can anyone provide any advice or suggestions? Many thanks.

----------


## xconnect.

My 2224 makes these sounds when it's sponge inlet prefilter is cloaked up .means water flow not fast enough and there are bubbles that is stuck inside due to the weak flowrate and cannot be expelled through the outlet.

----------


## Cyberkinetic

Thanks bro xconnect, will try to clean that up tomorrow..

----------


## ralliart12

> ...and there are bubbles that is stuck inside due to the weak flowrate and cannot be expelled through the outlet.


@xconnect: suppose _the point_ of CO2 injection is arranged to be _before_ the canister filter, in your experience, do it result in too much air (in this case, carbon dioxide) trapped in the canister filter too frequently (causing heavy wear-&-tear to the impeller)?

----------


## xconnect.

Erm not that is because my inlet quite near my sponge filter so sometime the bubbles will get sucked in. Co2 the bubbles very fine so should won't get affected.

----------


## Navanod

> @xconnect: suppose _the point_ of CO2 injection is arranged to be _before_ the canister filter, in your experience, do it result in too much air (in this case, carbon dioxide) trapped in the canister filter too frequently (causing heavy wear-&-tear to the impeller)?


If you're using an inline CO2 diffuser, than yes, it'll result in CO2 trapped in the canister that may cause large "burps" occasionally. Better to have it after

----------


## ralliart12

> If you're using an inline CO2 diffuser, than yes, it'll result in CO2 trapped in the canister that may cause large "burps" occasionally. Better to have it after


Noted; any comments with regards to the "broken" 2073 part?

----------


## Navanod

I do not recalled any such "pins" on my 2078 and I can see no function in having such a pin in that location. I went through the Eheim drawings for Pro 3 but did not see anything there either.
Since it sits into the top tray, you may be able to infer something from looking to see if there's any holes on the tray side? The tear drop shaped area is for water returning from the media trays and I suspect, related to how the priming lever works. It's simply a sealed empty area with a one-way valve/flap.
My guess is that what you've pointed out is just an artifact leftover from the plastic molding process.

I'll open up my 2078 and check tonight.

----------


## Cyberkinetic

I took out the diy prefilter foam as well as the inlet piece to clean earlier and while the prefilter seemed ok, not that badly choked, it's the inlet preece with the slits that gave me a shock! There's a piece of gunk, the height of almost an inch that was inside and it reduces the water flow to less than 25%.. So I quickly took care of that and gave the prefilter a good wash before fixing it back into the tank. 
But it didn't solve the issue, still the rattling noise and it's really loud now. No choice, I decided to clean the internal of the filter and replace the fine filter wool. It wasn't that bad really, light brown but not choked with gunk like what I've seen on my hob filter wool previously, but anyway, changed it to a new piece. Did a quick rinse of the two trays by just jiggling it in a tub of tank water, it wasn't too bad either. I decided to reuse the coarse filter foam after giving it a good rinse.it's surprisingly clean as well. 
Fitted everything back quickly and powered up the filter. The loud rattling sound was gone, but still if you go very close to the filter, you will be able to hear a slight, soft noise from the filter. I tried tilting the filter about but ths sound still stays.. Not sure what else I can do. 
Oh, I did take out the impeller to clean as well. Also checked the tubings and there's no obstruction (it's just one month old).
anyone can help? Thanks...




> Thanks bro xconnect, will try to clean that up tomorrow..

----------


## ralliart12

Hi fellows, I have a question: how does a chiller, which has. I suppose, _rigid_ inlet/outlet diameter, get connected to canister filters of _various_ hose diameters? Does it mean for filters using certain hose diameter, I _may_ have to get step-up/step-down adapters in order to connect it to my chiller?

----------


## Navanod

The inlet/outlet hose barbs are not rigid and can be unscrewed and changed. Most chillers come with 2 or 3 inlet/outlet sizes that can be fitted onto the chiller. Common sizes would fit 12/16, 16/22 and 19/27. 19/27 is more common for larger chillers and Arctica.
Step up and step downs cannot be avoided at times. I even used my chiller as a step down before (by using 19/27 as inlet and 16/22 as outlet, so I can fit it to Eheim installation kit), although it really hurt the flow rates.

It is only a problem when buying 2nd hand chillers, because most people would've lost their other inlets/outlets except the ones currently in use. I only had to buy a pair to replace the ones on a Resun. Costed me about $25.

----------


## astro

The price of eheim is out of my reach...

----------


## xconnect.

> The price of eheim is out of my reach...


You can always go to the buy sell market place and buy 2nd hand eheim filter. As eheim filter can last very long

----------


## Cyberkinetic

Phew... My 2224 just went back to "silent" mode finally...

Don't understand why also..before I did my routine water change tonight, the sound although very faint is still there. Then after I switched it off to do my water change, and power it up again, the sound is gone.

Tried.on/off a couple more times and it was good still.. *shrug*

----------


## granzord

i using the pro II 2026... solved my leaking when changed o-rings....i find it quite good but recently find my water flow output getting weaker and weaker... what is the cause? please help? 

last time C328 uncle say my hose angle maybe stuck with air bubbles..so went to cut the angle of the input hose...solve for a while but problem seems to come back again.

will test it with a pail of water with the head to see if the shooting power is still that great tommorrow.

others with the same problem as me please do kindly advise thanks. forget to say it connect to hailei 300A chiller.

----------


## Shadow

when the last time you clean your filter?

----------


## ralliart12

Hi fellows; I have some questions with regards to the instructions for the 2073 model:



Qn1. What is this "_Easy Clean_" function about? Is it like the "back-wash" function of the classic series?



Qn2: What does the "_bleeding_" refers to?

Qn3: How come the manual warns not to fill the filter canister before priming? I have the impression that a _fully-filled_ canister is more easy to prime? Or is there some reason _not_ to fill _until the pre-filter tray_ (meaning the bottom 3 trays _can still be_ filled with water & media) if you are using the suction aid to prime?

----------


## Navanod

Q1: I referenced this page
http://www.eheim.com/en_GB/products/...s/professionel
It says:
*Individually removable filter baskets for filling to suit individual requirements; models 250/350/600 with cleaning grill ‘Easy Clean’* 

Basically, the bottom of the trays is a grill that makes cleaning easy because it can be flushed out by running water over the media. Nothing really new actually. Not the same as backflushing on the Classic. I did try to backflush the Pro3e canister before by running the water in reverse passively through gravity and it does seemed to work as I get some dirt coming out and the cleaning indicator went back up.

Q2: "Bleeding" refers to ridding the canister and the hose lines of any small pockets of air.

Q3: "Priming" refers to filling the canister with water BEFORE powering up the pump/impeller. Impellers cannot move air or exert suction, so an un-primed canister will not "suck" water down from the tank. It'll also burn out the impeller. So by priming, we try to fill the entire canister with water all the way from the inlet pipe to at least part of the outlet pipe.
A fully filled canister is therefore already primed and erm, not easier to prime.
In the older models and other cheapo canisters, priming is done manually, by sticking the inlet pipe into the tank, and sucking on the outlet pipe by mouth. Like sucking on a giant straw, water will move into the inlet and once past a certain point, gravity takes over and the canister will fill.

In Pro 2 and Pro 3, there is a "priming button" or as the instruction calls it, the "suction aid". This creates the initial suction to draw water into the inlet so we do not have to mess around with the outlet pipe and drink tank water by accident.
It's not just the prefilter that must not be filled for this to work, the entire canister should be empty. When water gets sucked down the inlet pipe, the air needs a place to escape in order to bleed the canister. The only way out for the air is via the outlet pipe. Having any water at all in the canister will create an airlock that blocks the exit path of the air and prevent more water from entering the canister.
It is possible for the suction aid (by pressing it like mad) and the canister impeller itself to bleed small amount of air but not large pockets. The canister will simply just stall.
If you wish to fill up the canister before hand, it must be totally filled up with water, including the entire inlet pipe from tank to canister. In practice, it is actually very difficult to do, unless you use the installation kit, which has a cap at the elbow that can be removed for filling. Even then, I find that I'll still somehow have air pockets in the canister that will then merge and choke at the outlet pipe.
Give it a try yourself and you'll see what I mean. Its quite difficult to explain fully in words.

----------


## felix_fx2

This thread soon will change into the ehiem helpdesk soon.

Guys, keep thread from going out of topic. It will be easier for people when they actually search for topics and try self help.

Thanks.

----------


## ralliart12

> This thread soon will change into the ehiem helpdesk soon.
> 
> Guys, keep thread from going out of topic. It will be easier for people when they actually search for topics and try self help.
> 
> Thanks.


@felix, understood, i.e. you have a valid point.

----------


## aquarius

Maybe someone should start a new thread called Ehiem Helpdesk? So that all the Ehiem related queries/questions can be consolidated into one thread for easy reference and reading.

----------


## tikopek

I think 2026 & 2028 works well for me~ serving me for many years and motor still running strong~  :Smile:

----------


## alikao

I have been using my 2217 on a 40 breeder for 2 years and a 2215 for over a year. I can't say enough about these Eheim classics. They are a work horse that keeps running. Quality of the canister is very impressive. Importantly, the classic is super quiet.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

I am thinking of getting Eheim Ecco Pro 300 for my new 36 by 18 by 18 tank...How is the power consumption like? Is it overpowered or underpowered?

I used the Classic 2213 filter before for my previous 2 feet tank and it is really good and reliable. I may get the Classic 350 2215 model if I get bad reviews about the Eheim Ecco Pro 300.

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> I am thinking of getting Eheim Ecco Pro 300 for my new 36 by 18 by 18 tank...How is the power consumption like? Is it overpowered or underpowered?
> 
> I used the Classic 2213 filter before for my previous 2 feet tank and it is really good and reliable. I may get the Classic 350 2215 model if I get bad reviews about the Eheim Ecco Pro 300.


Just re-posting my reply from another thread... more relevant here for reference.  :Smile: 

I'm using the Eheim Ecco Pro 300 for my 2ft planted tank and i find that it's just right for that tank volume of around 64 liters. It runs at 750 l/ph flow rate but uses only 8 watts, therefore quite energy efficient.

For your planted 3ft tank and intended bio-load, that filter model would probably be too small for it... you should look at larger filters with higher flow rates instead, try to go for 8-10x tank volume turnover as a guideline. A higher flow rate is needed in planted tanks to create sufficient circulation to get nutrients and Co2 to all the plants, especially when plant growth becomes dense.

So for a 90cm x 45cm x 45cm tank, which is around 180+ liters, you should be looking at much larger filters that run at 1,800+ l/ph (or maybe install 2 filters that run at 900-1,000+ l/ph each, could help cover dead spots more efficiently in the tank too).

----------


## RenesisTurbo

Ok thanks. I had been out for 5 years and my previous tank was a 2 feet by 1 feet tank. Was thinking for going for 3 feet by 1 feet tank.So which Eheim external filter do u recommend? Going to order the tank when I move into my new BTO in 3 months. Will stick to Eheim filters though...

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> Ok thanks. I had been out for 5 years and my previous tank was a 2 feet by 1 feet tank. Was thinking for going for 3 feet by 1 feet tank.So which Eheim external filter do u recommend? Going to order the tank when I move into my new BTO in 3 months. Will stick to Eheim filters though...


If you have the budget... maybe go for an Eheim Pro 3e 450, has 1,700 l/ph and all the fancy electronic monitoring systems.

Otherwise, maybe can consider 2 x Eheim Classic 2217 (2 x 1,000 l/ph) or perhaps 2 x Eheim Classic 2215 (2 x 620 l/ph), those would be simple and easy to use.

Btw, if you are going for a 3ft by 1ft tank, then that would be much lower volume then a "standard" 3ft x 1.5ft x 1.5ft tank, so you can go with less flow rate to match the smaller tank volume. Maybe just one Eheim Classic 2217 might be sufficient already.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

I have decided on a 36 by 18 by 18 tank.....Think will get the Eheim Pro 3 350 external filter.BTW, what is the capacity of a fish tank that is 36 by 18 by 18?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> I have decided on a 36 by 18 by 18 tank.....Think will get the Eheim Pro 3 350 external filter.BTW, what is the capacity of a fish tank that is 36 by 18 by 18?


36"x 18" x 18" = 90cm x 45cm x 45cm = 182,250 cm3/ 1,000 = 182+ liters.

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## RenesisTurbo

> 36"x 18" x 18" = 90cm x 45cm x 45cm = 182,250 cm3/ 1,000 = 182+ liters.


So based on my tank size, is the Eheim Pro 3 350 external filter suitable for me?

Or which Eheim models should I look at?

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## Mookie

Where can I get eheim 2213 the cheapest? Anyone knows?

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## tcg170980

petmart/c328 is most competitive for brand new. else forum buy/sell.

sometimes it is not about the cheapest price. it about the friendship that is forged and services rendered. if you frequent a shop more often, the shop owner will also gives good deals.

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## popimac

Hi bros, 
Wanted to ask if getting an external canister filter for my 36cm x 21cm x 26cm be abit overkill? If it's not, could someone recommend me an eheim model for such tank? Mine is planted shrimp tank. 

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

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## tcg170980

> Ok thanks. I had been out for 5 years and my previous tank was a 2 feet by 1 feet tank. Was thinking for going for 3 feet by 1 feet tank.So which Eheim external filter do u recommend? Going to order the tank when I move into my new BTO in 3 months. Will stick to Eheim filters though...


I use a 2075 on a 3x1x1 and find it overpowered.

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## RenesisTurbo

Try the fish shop near Tiong Bahru market.....

BTW,I can only afford the Eheim Ecco Pro 300 or Professionel 3 350.What size of tank is suitable for it? Was thinking for a tank of 2.5 feet by 1.5 by 1.5 or 3 feet by 1.5 by 1.5.Been to several fish shops but I am unable to match the size of the tank with any of the 2 models named above. I found a package set around 550 in the LFS near my in laws.....It comes with a cabinet and a tank with a size of 3 by 1.5 by 1.5 with the light, hood and a PRC made filter.So I just need to find out if the Eheim Ecco Pro 300 or Professionel 3 350 is suitable for the tank cos I don't want to use the PRC filter.

Been getting a headache over this issue since the missus gave me the green light to have a tank in my new BTO.

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> So based on my tank size, is the Eheim Pro 3 350 external filter suitable for me?
> 
> Or which Eheim models should I look at?


Well, the Pro 3 350 has a flow rate of 1,050 l/ph... abit low for a 3ft x 1.5ft x 1.5ft planted tank, but it could still work. It just depends on your planting layout and density.

For example, if you have a wide open iwagumi style layout with very low carpet plants and few hardscape blocking the circulation, then it should be okay, but if its those densely planted layouts with thick hedges of tall plants, then most of the flow may get blocked and you end up with lots of dead spots.

Maybe you could consider the larger higher flow models in the various ranges (if budget allows), just check the Eheim website to view the different model selections. 

My viewpoint about filtration is its better to over-filtrate rather than to under-filtrate... and it much easier to adjust and reduce the flow of a high flow filter, rather than get a lower flow filter and get stuck with not enough flow rate, then have to install additional wave maker or change to another filter (especially after the filter is running for a few months and the flow rate decreases over time).

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## Urban Aquaria

> I use a 2075 on a 3x1x1 and find it overpowered.


Yeah, i agree... a 3ft x 1ft x 1ft tank is only 81 liters, so it could still do well with a less powerful filter.

Its less than half the volume of a standard 3ft x 1.5ft x 1.5ft tank, which is 182+ liters (the extra height and depth makes a big difference in flow and circulation).  :Smile:

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> Well, the Pro 3 350 has a flow rate of 1,050 l/ph... abit low for a 3ft planted tank, but it could still work. It just depends on your planting layout and density.
> 
> For example, if you have a wide open iwagumi style layout with very low carpet plants and few hardscape blocking the circulation, then it should be okay, but if its those densely planted layouts with thick hedges of tall plants, then most of the flow may get blocked and you end up with lots of dead spots.
> 
> Maybe you could consider the larger higher flow models in the various ranges (if budget allows), just check the Eheim website to view the different model selections. 
> 
> My viewpoint about filtration is its better to over-filtrate rather than to under-filtrate... and it much easier to adjust and reduce the flow of a high flow filter, rather than get a lower flow filter and get stuck with not enough flow rate, then have to install additional wave maker or change to another filter (especially after the filter is running for a few months and the flow rate decreases over time).


I also share your belief that it is better to be overpowered than underpowered, bro...I did not plan for my tank to be heavily planted after some consideration. My idea is to just put the live stock with driftwood set in the center and the back left and right hand sides of my 3 feet tank.

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> Try the fish shop near Tiong Bahru market.....
> 
> BTW,I can only afford the Eheim Ecco Pro 300 or Professionel 3 350.What size of tank is suitable for it? Was thinking for a tank of 2.5 feet by 1.5 by 1.5 or 3 feet by 1.5 by 1.5.Been to several fish shops but I am unable to match the size of the tank with any of the 2 models named above. I found a package set around 550 in the LFS near my in laws.....It comes with a cabinet and a tank with a size of 3 by 1.5 by 1.5 with the light, hood and a PRC made filter.So I just need to find out if the Eheim Ecco Pro 300 or Professionel 3 350 is suitable for the tank cos I don't want to use the PRC filter.
> 
> Been getting a headache over this issue since the missus gave me the green light to have a tank in my new BTO.


You can still go for a standard 3ft x 1.5ft x 1.5ft tank (since you already plan for the space to fit it, might as well get the maximum size tank you can)... maybe look at the larger Classic series filters? 

Perhaps you can get a 2217 first, then if not enough circulation or filtration, just add on another 2213 or 2215 to increase the overall filtration and direct more circulation to different areas of the tank.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

Is there a filter in the Professionel 3 or Ecco range that is equivalent to the 2217 in terms of performance?

----------


## tcg170980

Do note the different size inlet/outlet in a 2217.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

My heart is leaning more towards the Pro 3 350.Just that I just plan to have driftwood in the tank with my 15 platies, 5 Boseman Rainbows, 15-18 lemon tetras and 4 corydoras.

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> Is there a filter in the Professionel 3 or Ecco range that is equivalent to the 2217 in terms of performance?


Ecco Pro range tops out at 750 l/ph... you'll have to look at the other filter series to get higher flow rates. Can check the Pro, Pro 2 and Pro 3 series, all have models with equivalent flow rates.

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> Ok,is the 2217 is more better than the Ecco or Pro 3 series?


Well, for the equivalent flow rate and filtration volume compared to the other series models, the Classic 2217 generally works out cheaper... main difference is it doesn't come with all the fancy extra features.  :Smile:

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> Ecco Pro range tops out at 750 l/ph... you'll have to look at the other filter series to get higher flow rates. Can check the Pro, Pro 2 and Pro 3 series, all have models with equivalent flow rates.


How are the flow rates of the Pro 3 350 and 600 like? Are they overpowered for the tank size than I planned to get?

----------


## RenesisTurbo

My heart is leaning more towards the Pro 3 350.Just that I just plan to have driftwood in the tank with my 15 platies, 5 Boseman Rainbows, 15-18 lemon tetras and 4 corydoras. Does that change the equation regarding the model of the filter and bio load? I am also looking to breed some platy fries as well, haha.....

If my bio load works well with the Pro 3 350 or 2217,will consider either both. Sorry for double post.

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> How are the flow rates of the Pro 3 350 and 600 like? Are they overpowered for the tank size than I planned to get?


The 350 is listed as around 1,050 l/ph and the 600 is around 1,250 l/ph, not a huge difference in terms of flow rate... though the 600 has 9+ liter filter volume vs 7+ liter in the 350. Both will be usable in your tank,just adjust the flow rate accordingly.





> My heart is leaning more towards the Pro 3 350.Just that I just plan to have driftwood in the tank with my 15 platies, 5 Boseman Rainbows, 15-18 lemon tetras and 4 corydoras. Does that change the equation regarding the model of the filter and bio load? I am also looking to breed some platy fries as well, haha.....
> 
> If my bio load works well with the Pro 3 350 or 2217,will consider either both. Sorry for double post.


The lemon tetras stay relatively small so not much bio-load there, corydoras also not too much bio-load too, unless you get the really large species. 

Platies can grow to 6-7cm size, so a large growing group may bump up the bio-load a fair bit over time.

The boseman rainbows are nice fishes but grow to 10+ cm size, and they are large bodied fishes... so that's probably where a good portion of your bio-load will come from.

Stocking ratio wise it looks okay if you keep up with regular maintenance (since its not going to be so heavily planted), but a larger filter will definitely help keep the tank more stable.  :Smile:

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> The 350 is listed as around 1,050 l/ph and the 600 is around 1,250 l/ph, not a huge difference in terms of flow rate... though the 600 has 9+ liter filter volume vs 7+ liter in the 350. Both will be usable in your tank,just adjust the flow rate accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lemon tetras and platies stay relatively small so not much bio-load there, corydoras also not too much bio-load too, unless you get the really large species.
> 
> The boseman rainbows are nice fishes but grow to 10+ cm size, and they are large bodied fishes... so that's probably where most of your bio-load will come from.
> 
> Stocking ratio wise it looks okay if you keep up with regular maintenance (since its not going to be so heavily planted), but a larger filter will definitely help keep the tank more stable.


You know.....I used to have the 2213 for my previous tank. I don't really like to jump into the unknown to use things that I never used before like the Pro 3 filters. I am quite familiar with the workings of the Classic filters. So the 2217 is okay for my bioload and my tank size right?

----------


## RenesisTurbo

So if I were to change to the 2217 for my bioload and tank size, will it do?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

It can work, though it largely depends on how you maintain the tank too. Anyways, if its not enough... then you can just add another filter to beef up the filtration.  :Smile:

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> It can work, though it largely depends on how you maintain the tank too. Anyways, if its not enough... then you can just add another filter to beef up the filtration.


Thanks bro.....Checked out C328 just now earlier in the evening. Think I will get the Pro 3 600 or the 2217 from there along with my 3 by 1.5 by 1.5 fish tank with the cabinet which costs $580. The Clementi Florist shop is indeed cheaper than GC or Seaview for these 2 items.

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## Mookie

Anything I should add as filter media for my new 2213? Thanks

----------


## tcg170980

the price is indeed cheap for a tank and cabinet. I remember I bought 2217 at around 200 including media.

didn't you buy the 2213 option which include media as I remember it do not differ much in price?

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## RenesisTurbo

> the price is indeed cheap for a tank and cabinet. I remember I bought 2217 at around 200 including media.
> 
> didn't you buy the 2213 option which include media as I remember it do not differ much in price?


I went to C328 to check prices. I will be getting my tank before the World Cup. Decided on a Pro 3 600 or 2217 cos my tank is around 180 liters. Think 2213 is quite underpowered for my future tank. I believe the Pro 3 600 or 2217 will overpower the new tank I am gonna buy.

I got the 2213 for around 120 bucks back in 2008 from the LFS near Tiong Bahru Market. The shop owner gave me free filter media for the 2213 cos I was his regular customer.

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## tcg170980

2213 with media is now cheaper than the price you quoted.

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## RenesisTurbo

> 2213 with media is now cheaper than the price you quoted.


Ok, will get the 2217 for $265 or Pro 3 600 for $380 instead before discounts. Is the Pro 3 600 easy to operate?I am more leaning on the Pro 3 600 because of it's modernised features.The 2217 is a bigger version of 2213 so I am quite familiar with it and it's maintainance.

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> Ok, will get the 2217 for $265 or Pro 3 600 for $380 instead before discounts. Is the Pro 3 600 easy to operate?I am more leaning on the Pro 3 600 because of it's modernised features.The 2217 is a bigger version of 2213 so I am quite familiar with it and it's maintainance.


Pro 3 600 if you have the budget (has higher flow rate and larger filter volume + some nice extra features)... if not, then the 2217 will still do well, no frills package but very reliable and simple to use.  :Smile:

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> Pro 3 600 if you have the budget (has higher flow rate and larger filter volume + some nice extra features)... if not, then the 2217 will still do well, no frills package but very reliable and easy to use.


Ok,bro.....thanks for the helpful advice these few days.

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> Ok,bro.....thanks for the helpful advice these few days.


Glad to be of some help.  :Smile:

----------


## tirimisu

Any gd internal filter to recommend.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> Any gd internal filter to recommend.


For my previous 2 by 1.5 feet tank, I used Eheim Pick Up 200.....

----------


## RenesisTurbo

I was at Seaview earlier on today. Checked out the prices of the Pro 3 600 and 2217...

What I am confused is that when I checked the Pro 3 600 and the internal parts that came with it based by the illustrations on the box,I was quite surprised to see that there is no impeller in this model and when I checked out the 2217, it had all the parts inside including the impeller. 

How does the Pro 3 600 work out it's output of water? I am more familiar with the 2217 cos I previously owned a 2213.

BTW, I saw the 3 feet tank and the cabinet that I liked at Seaview. It is going for the combined price of $400. I will have to wait for May to come though when I move into my new flat. All that is hanging now is making the decision on getting the 2217 or Pro 3 600.

----------


## Urban Aquaria

Are you referring to the box illustration like this?



The impeller and motor are inside the cover housing on top... i guess they don't bother to specifically show it on the box illustrations because there are too many other things to display.

On the other-hand, the 2217 is so basic and simple that they probably have to show the impeller or else it looks abit empty.  :Grin:

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> Are you referring to the box illustration like this?
> 
> 
> 
> The impeller and motor are inside the cover housing on top... i guess they don't bother to specifically show it on the box illustrations because there are too many other things to display.
> 
> On the other-hand, the 2217 is so basic and simple that they probably have to show the impeller or else it looks abit empty.


Yes, that's the one! But is the Pro 3 600 easy to take out and clean like the 2217?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> Yes, that's the one! But is the Pro 3 600 easy to take out and clean like the 2217?


I've not used the Pro 3 model before, but i have used the Pro and Pro 2 models which have similar designs, they do have a few more parts to clean, but overall still quite easy.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> I've not used the Pro 3 model before, but i have used the Pro and Pro 2 models which have similar designs, they do have a few more parts to clean, but overall still quite easy.


Ok, will post pics of my set up and new filter once it is up. Thanks a lot. Will think seriously whether to get Pro 3 600 or 2217. Most likely going for the Pro 3 600 cos of it's modernised features. Just that I got to learn how to strip it down and put it together again when I clean it.

----------


## tcg170980

pro3 price is almost double that of 2217. so definitely some incentive for the upgrade.

but the different in price can be used to upgrade other equipments such as light which is also important.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> pro3 price is almost double that of 2217. so definitely some incentive for the upgrade.
> 
> but the different in price can be used to upgrade other equipments such as light which is also important.


Thanks for the financial advice, bro.....Appreciate it very much.

----------


## nicholasliao

Remember to get the double tap valves if you're getting the eheim 2217. It saves you alot of time and effort when its time for your canister maintenance.

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk

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## RenesisTurbo

> Remember to get the double tap valves if you're getting the eheim 2217. It saves you alot of time and effort when its time for your canister maintenance.
> 
> Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk


May I know what are the double tap valves and their functions? Never heard of it before ,haha.....

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> May I know what are the double tap valves and their functions? Never heard of it before ,haha.....


Double taps are made of two valves connected with a threaded fitting, you basically connect it inline on each hose. When you want to maintain the filter, just shut off all the taps and you can disconnect the hoses without water draining out everywhere. The valves can also be used to restrict flow too, very useful to regulate the flow from the outflow.

This is what it looks like:




Image from Google Images.

The Eheim Classic series filters don't come with double taps (unless specially packaged in), they usually have to be bought and installed separately. 

The Ecco Pro, Pro, Pro 2 and Pro 3 series filters all already come with inbuilt double tap systems, so no need to add them.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> Double taps are made of two valves connected with a threaded fitting, you basically connect it inline on each hose. When you want to maintain the filter, just shut off all the taps and you can disconnect the hoses without water draining out everywhere. The valves can also be used to restrict flow too, very useful to regulate the flow from the outflow.
> 
> This is what it looks like:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Image from Google Images.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the information, bro...

----------


## rakurime

Hi guys,,

Need recommendation for my new tank, which yet to setup.


I'm getting a front curve tank, 30cm x 19cm x 26cm.
(take it as 10-12 litres of water in total)

Which is more suitable ? Eheim Classic 150 aka 2211 or aquacompact 40
(Both about the same price)

I'm digging the 2 tubes setup (classic) than the partial filter submerse into tank (aquacompact)

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## Urban Aquaria

The Eheim 2211 would be better for your setup... you get more filter media capacity, can use glass lily pipes with it and can position it hidden away from view under your tank.

----------


## DucklingOnQuack

Voters need to be restricted to only users whom have used all 3 models, for effective poll.

Otherwise everyone simply votes for the model they are familiar with. Regardless of the hate towards the Ecco, it is my favorite. The handle only breaks on people when they try to swing it prior to disconnecting the taps. It is compact, comes with multiple media trays (provided you get above the 2232), simple to clean & simple to prime.

----------


## tumbz

I use a 2213 for my 17 gal and a 2217 for 48 gal. I love rhwm

----------


## rak3nn

any recommendation for a 20 gallons setup? not overkill...

----------


## MCE

See YouTube on Aquael Minikani.

No need to power off, not a drop of water to disconnect the canister for maintenance. 


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## Urban Aquaria

> See YouTube on Aquael Minikani.
> 
> No need to power off, not a drop of water to disconnect the canister for maintenance. 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thats an interesting design... only thing is its pump is situated in the tank (not in the canister).  :Smile:

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## MCE

Not really, you can have 3 options on where to place the small pump as systems is designed. 
I put the pump outside the tank, where space is available. Love the European design and is inexpensive (~S$120). 3tray or 4 tray, including medias. 



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## lantian69

Bro, where did u see this model selling in SG? Can share?

----------


## MCE

I am also looking out for my 3rd unit. Was told that their new disti for Singapore was to have stock end of last month. Look out from their website...or inquire from there.


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## MCE

Attachment 43121


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## MCE

http://aquael.com.pl/images/DOWNLOAD...Instrukcja.pdf


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## Urban Aquaria

> Not really, you can have 3 options on where to place the small pump as systems is designed. 
> I put the pump outside the tank, where space is available. Love the European design and is inexpensive (~S$120). 3tray or 4 tray, including medias.


Thats very useful... the option to place the pump anywhere does give it alot of flexibility.

Btw, do they have versions with flow rate higher than 350 l/ph?

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## lantian69

Thanks for the info. Very helpful indeed. Any other good recommendations for similar canister?

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## MCE

Hi UA, they offer 3 -4 range of ext filters products which all designed and made in Europe. The Midikani range has pump rate of 800 lit/H which gives effective filtering rate of 650 lit/H. 
( pump can be replaced for larger flow rate but their pumps are very quiet, water proof and very efficient.)

The Unimax range is very interesting - 2 sets of in/out flow pipes for placement flow area for large tank to eliminate dead spots. 2 pumps integrated in the canister. Option to self install an UV light when required.
Take a look in their URL
http://aquael.com.pl/en/products/akw...osty-i-wydajny

Aquael is a quality brand, very keen to know the spore distributor and their pricing. 


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## Urban Aquaria

> Hi UA, they offer 3 -4 range of ext filters products which all designed and made in Europe. The Midikani range has pump rate of 800 lit/H which gives effective filtering rate of 650 lit/H. 
> ( pump can be replaced for larger flow rate but their pumps are very quiet, water proof and very efficient.)
> 
> The Unimax range is very interesting - 2 sets of in/out flow pipes for placement flow area for large tank to eliminate dead spots. 2 pumps integrated in the canister. Option to self install an UV light when required.
> Take a look in their URL
> http://aquael.com.pl/en/products/akw...osty-i-wydajny
> 
> Aquael is a quality brand, very keen to know the spore distributor and their pricing.


Thanks for the info, very smart designs in those various models... i'll definitely check them out.  :Well done:

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## jamonbutter

Would a 2217 or a pro3 600 suit a 90g tank? Observed that most voted for classic though.

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## Urban Aquaria

> Would a 2217 or a pro3 600 suit a 90g tank? Observed that most voted for classic though.


Both models would be suitable for a 90 gallon tank, though if you are running a planted tank, you may need more flow rate (or a 2nd filter) to create sufficient circulation around the tank and reduce dead spots.

The classic models have been around for a much longer time and also cost less, hence more people have used them before.

The Pro3 models are newer and cost more, but they come with lots of additional features like inbuilt safety taps, self-priming, lower power consumption etc. So if you have the budget and like the features then that would be a good choice too.

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## ronanggl

Wow. The Unimax 500 looks amazing. Wonder how much is it. If it's affordable surely will use it for my home tank in the near future.

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## blu3her0

> Attachment 43121
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks for sharing this with us. You'd previously mentioned this product to me too, but too bad my friend was back from HK before he could check it out...looks like I'll have to wait for Singapore's distributor to start stocking this before I can make further decisions!

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## MCE

Buy it locally for sure since there is a 2 yr warranty, add a bit if GST. Hopefully there are promo available.


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## MCE

> Wow. The Unimax 500 looks amazing. Wonder how much is it. If it's affordable surely will use it for my home tank in the near future.


I was very tempted to buy this beautiful tank which is up for sale. 

Attachment 43153
This 3 feet tank ideally can use Aquael Unimax external filter with dual sets of in/out flow, eliminate the bulky power flow maker in the tank. 


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## lantian69

Yup, saw that post as well... nice...

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## ronanggl

> I was very tempted to buy this beautiful tank which is up for sale. 
> 
> Attachment 43153
> This 3 feet tank ideally can use Aquael Unimax external filter with dual sets of in/out flow, eliminate the bulky power flow maker in the tank. 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Let's hope we have Singapore distributor stocking on it soon.  :Smile:

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## RenesisTurbo

I am going to order my 3 feet custom made tank soon.The specs of the tank is L90cm x W30 x H18 inches.Which Eheim filter is suitable for the life support system? Looking at Eheim Classic 350, Eheim Ecco Pro 300 or Eheim Professionel 350.Anyone can advise me on this?

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## mUAr_cHEe

It really depends on what you want.

From my understanding, the Classic Series has no room for filter medium. Cheapest.
The Ecco Pro Series has room for filter medium and is round in foot print. Not So Cheap.
The Pro Series has room for filter medium and is squarish in foot print. Dearest.

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## MCE

If yr selection criterion is brand instead of filtering capacity/ functionality/footprint etc. then buyer the dearest. The biggest capacity the better for yr tank. Watch out for dead spots though, the stagnation of water in those areas may need supplementary blower/pump. The unsightly green colour pipes of eherm give rise to opportunities for aftermarket products. 


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## Urban Aquaria

> I am going to order my 3 feet custom made tank soon.The specs of the tank is L90cm x W30 x H18 inches.Which Eheim filter is suitable for the life support system? Looking at Eheim Classic 350, Eheim Ecco Pro 300 or Eheim Professionel 350.Anyone can advise me on this?


Your tank dimensions (L90cm x D30cm x H45cm) work out to around 121+ liters? If so, then the 3 canister filters you mentioned can be used to provide filtration to the tank... but if you are planning to do up a densely planted tank, then the more flow rate the better to create better circulation for the Co2 and nutrient delivery.

The Classic 350 (620 l/ph with 4L filter media volume) and Ecco Pro 300 (750 l/ph with 3.1L filter media volume) will both do an adequate job, though you'll need to buy double-taps separately for the classic model, so have to factor in that additional cost.

The Eheim Pro 350 (1,050 l/ph with 5L filter media volume) would be the most ideal, though it costs more.

Note that if you are going to link additional equipment like inline Co2 diffusers or chillers to the canister filter, they will reduce the effective flow rate further, so a higher flow rate canister filter model would be a better choice.

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## RenesisTurbo

My tank planned setup as follows. It is just going to have a few plastic plants and 2-3 pieces of driftwood with a brown sandy base

Livestock is as follows...

-15 platies(5 males and 10 females for breeding purposes)
-15 pieces of lemon tetras
-3 Boseman's Rainbowfishes.
-4 corydoras

I will like my tank's life support system something more modern or auto-prime so will most likely go for Ecco Pro 300.But will go down to Wu Hu Aquarium tomorrow for price quotation from Ben. But is the Ecco Pro 300 too weak for my set up or should I go for Professionel 350 instead? I used to use Classic 2213 when I last had my 2 feet tank 4 years ago.

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## Urban Aquaria

Okay, since the tank is mainly for keeping fishes and only has plastic plants, then delivery of Co2 and nutrients around the tank aren't points of concern... so your main focus would be on mechanical and biological filtration.

In your case, get the canister filter with as large a filter media volume as possible, the more bio-media it has the more stable the water parameters can be kept between tank maintenance and water changes.

The Ecco Pro 300 will do fine... but the Pro 350 would be better mainly due to it's larger filtration volume. I guess it just depends on your budget and preference.

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## ronanggl

Which model will be good for a 2ft shrimp tank?


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## AQMS

My prefered choice would be 2224 or 2222.

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## ronanggl

How many feet can 2224 goes up to?


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## AQMS

Eheim 2222 - up to 150l. Pump output approx 500l/h
Eheim 2224 - up to 250l. Pump output approx 700l/h

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## Urban Aquaria

> How many feet can 2224 goes up to?


The Eheim 2224 would be suitable for a 2ft tank (whether planted or shrimps or both), it has alot of filter volume and good flow rate (700 l/ph). If you find that the flow is too strong, it can be easily adjusted with the inbuilt taps.

It could also be used for up to 3ft sized tanks that have lower bio-loads too.

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## ronanggl

Have intention of upgrading to 3ft in future. So which model should I be looking at that can adjust flow for 2ft yet usable for 3ft?


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## Urban Aquaria

> Have intention of upgrading to 3ft in future. So which model should I be looking at that can adjust flow for 2ft yet usable for 3ft?


You could look at those canister filter models that run up to 1,000 l/ph, just need to adjust the flow lower if necessary to accommodate its use in a 2ft tank. You could also consider even higher flow rate canister filters, but the flow rate might end up too high that it becomes difficult to adjust it low enough.

An alternative to using just one over-sized filter, is to just get a canister filter with moderate flow rate to match your 2ft tank, then when you eventually get a 3ft tank, get a 2nd canister filter, so you'll have 2 filters working on one tank. With the ability to position 2 filter outlets at separate sections of the tank, that dual configuration can actually help in creating more efficient water circulation with less dead spots.

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## ronanggl

So can I say by getting a 2224 should be rather safe for a 3ft shrimp tank?


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## Urban Aquaria

> So can I say by getting a 2224 should be rather safe for a 3ft shrimp tank?


For a 3ft tank with just shrimps and low-demand plants (which can be considered as relatively low bio-load), a Eheim 2224 would be quite sufficient.

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## ronanggl

Think I may go for a 2028 instead.


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## RenesisTurbo

Is the Eheim Pickup 2012 good enough for a tank that is 90cm x 30cm x 45cm? Thinking of a alternative if I cannot get Pro Ecco 300.....

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## lantian69

Alternately, can also consider Atman DF1000, brand new $88 from N.A. Cheap & good if you are not brand sensitive ^_^

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## RenesisTurbo

I just saw the Eheim Pickup 200 on a website from England and I thought I might ask to see how it compares to Pro Ecco 300.

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## Urban Aquaria

> I just saw the Eheim Pickup 200 on a website from England and I thought I might ask to see how it compares to Pro Ecco 300.


Both are different filter systems, the Pickup is an internal filter while the Ecco Pro is an external canister filter.

Although the Pickup 200 can be used in a tank, it takes up space inside the tank (along with heat transfer from the submerged motor) and its filter volume is very small, like only 470ml of filter media... on the other hand, a Ecco Pro 300 sits outside the tank and its filter volume is much larger, it can hold 3+ liters of filter media, and you can position its intake and output pipes separately to create more efficient circulation.

So if possible, get an external canister filter, it would provide better filtration for the tank.

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## RenesisTurbo

Ok, Ecco Pro 300 it shall be then for it's 8 watt energy consumption...Going to order 300, tank and cabinet from Seaview this Sat...

One last comparison....Classic 350 vs Ecco Pro 300?

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## Urban Aquaria

> Ok, Ecco Pro 300 it shall be then for it's 8 watt energy consumption...Going to order 300, tank and cabinet from Seaview this Sat...
> 
> One last comparison....Classic 350 vs Ecco Pro 300?


I did that exact same comparison when i was choosing between the eheim canister filters too.  :Grin: 

Here were some comparison figures that i can remember:

Model = Ecco Pro 300 vs Classic 350
Flow Rate = 750 l/ph vs 650 l/ph
Filter Media Volume = 3.1L vs 4L
Power Consumption = 8W vs 15W
Priming = Handle Prime vs Manual Prime
Inbuilt Double Taps = Yes vs No (have to buy double taps separately)
Retail Price = S$220+ vs S$170+

In summary, the Ecco Pro 300 has higher flow rate, uses less power and comes with priming system and inbuilt taps, but its has less filter media volume and costs more compared to the Classic 350 (though you also have to factor in buying the double taps separately)... so i guess it just depends on which features you prefer.  :Smile:

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## RenesisTurbo

> I did that exact same comparison when i was choosing between the eheim canister filters too. 
> 
> Here were some comparison figures that i can remember:
> 
> Model = Ecco Pro 300 vs Classic 350
> Flow Rate = 750 l/ph vs 650 l/ph
> Filter Media Volume = 3.1L vs 4L
> Power Consumption = 8W vs 15W
> Priming = Handle Prime vs Manual Prime
> ...


Thanks...Will do up my aquarium asap and post the photos online.

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## milk_vanilla

In planted tank, the main filter media is the plants itself  :Wink: , whereby the filter is ultimately for flow distribution.

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## mUAr_cHEe

> In planted tank, the main filter media is the plants itself , whereby the filter is ultimately for flow distribution.


I beg to differ. I think the canister filter provides the mechanical filtration which the plants cannot provide. It is also where the bacteria mainly is and this provides the biological filtration.

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## RenesisTurbo

Seaview just delivered the fish tank and other stuff that I ordered from them on Sunday along my Pro Ecco 300.Sand and driftwood had been washed last night and going to work on Ecco Pro 300 when I get home tonight. 

I understand for 300, there are 3 compartments comprising of the filter media and the black roundish stuff.So I just have to wash up the black, blue and white sponges along with the filter media and can prime from there after installing the taps and inlet, outlet pipes? How do I do the occasional maintenance? What do I have to wash?

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## RenesisTurbo

Sorry for double post...Can we use normal ceramic rings, small charcoal carbon bags and blue, white sponges from the LFS instead of using the ones from Eheim for Ecco Pro 300?

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## Urban Aquaria

> Seaview just delivered the fish tank and other stuff that I ordered from them on Sunday along my Pro Ecco 300.Sand and driftwood had been washed last night and going to work on Ecco Pro 300 when I get home tonight. 
> 
> I understand for 300, there are 3 compartments comprising of the filter media and the black roundish stuff.So I just have to wash up the black, blue and white sponges along with the filter media and can prime from there after installing the taps and inlet, outlet pipes? How do I do the occasional maintenance? What do I have to wash?


The black sponge pad is activated carbon, that is only recommended to be used for 2 weeks (thereafter it loses its efficiency), then removed. Most planted tank owners don't use it as it can absorb some of the fertilizers and nutrients that would otherwise be required by the plants to grow.

When you do filter maintenance (best at the same time as water change, keep the old tank water in a bucket), just disconnect everything, open the casing, rinse the blue pre-filter sponge and bio-media compartments in the bucket of old tank water to dislodge debris and dirt. 

The white sponge should be rinsed in the old tank water too, but if you see it already turn dark brown or black, then its time to change to a new white sponge (this is the only item in the filter that needs to be replaced regularly). 

If necessary, open the impeller housing and use a brush to scrub the various individual parts clean of accumulated dirt, then put back together.

Use a long flexible pipe brush to pull though and scrub the hoses and pipes.

Assemble back everything, prime it, and resume filter operation.  :Smile:

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## RenesisTurbo

Is it easy to open up the impeller housing? I had not opened my filter yet.....So I can just buy any white sponge from the LFS, cut into shape and put inside instead of using original Eheim asessories? Can I use ceramic rings or black carbon charcoal small bags instead of original Eheim media?

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## Urban Aquaria

> Is it easy to open up the impeller housing? I had not opened my filter yet.....


Its quite easy, just pinch the side catches on the impeller housing and pull it open... the steps are detailed in the eheim filter manual. 

It'll be good to practice opening it and taking out the parts and then re-assembling it back to get familiar with how it works.





> So I can just buy any white sponge from the LFS, cut into shape and put inside instead of using original Eheim asessories? Can I use ceramic rings or black carbon charcoal small bags instead of original Eheim media?


Yes, you could use different aftermarket bio-media, chemical-media and sponges in the canister filter too... can mix and match to your requirements. 

Just have to make sure that the aftermarket sponges fit the canister filter properly (ie. not restrict flow or allow water to bypass them).

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## RenesisTurbo

> Yes, you could use different aftermarket bio-media, chemical-media and sponges in the canister filter too... can mix and match to your requirements. 
> 
> Just have to make sure that the aftermarket sponges fit the canister filter properly (ie. not restrict flow or allow water to bypass them).


Sounds exciting.....For setting up my tank after i fill up with water tonight, do I really need to use the back sponge pad?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> Sounds exciting.....For setting up my tank after i fill up with water tonight, do I really need to use the back sponge pad?


No harm using it... but if you are running a planted tank with active soil substrate and fertilization, then it may absorb some of the good nutrients that are meant for the plants, so it could be abit counter-productive.  :Smile:

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> No harm using it... but if you are running a planted tank with active soil substrate and fertilization, then it may absorb some of the good nutrients that are meant for the plants, so it could be abit counter-productive.


Ok, one last thing is I am using beneficial bacteria from Ocean Free and is 5 days enough for me to recycle my tank? I spotted some nice sailfin mollies and platies at Seaview and hoping to get them this Sunday.

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## Urban Aquaria

> Ok, one last thing is I am using beneficial bacteria from Ocean Free and is 5 days enough for me to recycle my tank? I spotted some nice sailfin mollies and platies at Seaview and hoping to get them this Sunday.


Usually those bacteria solutions create a temporary cycle to help handle the bio-load of fishes added to brand new tanks... the tank itself still needs time to grow and maintain a stable long-term natural beneficial bacteria population (which may be different from the bottled bacteria). That usually takes a few weeks to establish, so you'll still need to monitor the water parameters to ensure the conditions are kept stable during this time.

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## RenesisTurbo

Just want to ask....I fixed up my Ecco Pro 300 2 days ago and I was not sure about how to place the J shaped outlet bar.Can I submerge the bar in the water or hang it on the width of my tank by using the suction clip?Is there a spray bar for Ecco Pro 300?

Anyone has any pictures on the placement of the inlet and outlet bars?

----------


## freezze

Just hang it on the side of the tank and use the suction clip to hold it in place.

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## RenesisTurbo

Just hang it by the side and use only 1 suction clip right? How to go about cleaning the part where the impeller is?

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## Urban Aquaria

> Just want to ask....I fixed up my Ecco Pro 300 2 days ago and I was not sure about how to place the J shaped outlet bar.Can I submerge the bar in the water or hang it on the width of my tank by using the suction clip?Is there a spray bar for Ecco Pro 300?


Yes, the J-shaped outflow pipe mouth is submerged into the water... can also be halfway or slightly above the water level (if you prefer more surface agitation). The suction cup for the outflow pipe is positioned outside the tank to hold it in place.

You can buy spray bars for the filter too, most LFS usually stock various spray bar designs and lengths which are compatible with it.

Btw... since you are using a canister filter, consider switching to glass or acrylic lily pipes, looks way better.  :Grin: 





> Anyone has any pictures on the placement of the inlet and outlet bars?


Typically, the outflow and intake pipes are placed next to each other on one side of the tank, that creates as circular flow pattern which covers most of the tank area.. here is a diagram (just imagine the original green pipes instead of the lily pipes):


Source: http://www.ukaps.org/index.php?page=...h-planted-tank

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## RenesisTurbo

> Yes, the J-shaped outflow pipe mouth is submerged into the water... can also be halfway or slightly above the water level (if you prefer more surface agitation). The suction cup for the outflow pipe is positioned outside the tank to hold it in place.
> 
> You can buy spray bars for the filter too, most LFS usually stock various spray bar designs and lengths which are compatible with it.
> 
> Btw... since you are using a canister filter, consider switching to glass or acrylic lily pipes, looks way better. 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


So it is one suction cup holding the outlet bar on the outside of the tank and another one holding it from the interior of the tank right?Or both suction cups holding the outlet bar from the exterior of the tank?

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## Urban Aquaria

> So it is one suction cup holding the outlet bar on the outside of the tank and another one holding it from the interior of the tank right?Or both suction cups holding the outlet bar from the exterior of the tank?


The J-shaped outlet pipe only need one suction cup put outside of the tank to hold it (can use 2 if you want it to be more secure)... there are no suction cups to be placed inside the tank for the outlet pipe.

Here is an example (the suction cups are all outside, much neater):



Photo from google images.

But if you use spray bars, then the suction cups have to be inside the tank to hold it horizontally in place.

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## RenesisTurbo

Ok thanks bro.....How do you clean the impeller housing?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> Ok thanks bro.....How do you clean the impeller housing?


Just remove the impeller housing cover, pull out the impeller, then use a brush to scrub clean all the parts.

----------


## aquarius

Just take note not to lose the black rubber that is holding the white shaft at the filter head area when you're rinsing out the dirt.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

Just want to ask....I had my Ecco Pro 300 for 2 months and I removed the thin black sponge and white sponge. Replaced with a piece of aftermarket thick white sponge.Also put 2 packs of Seachem Renew but my water outflow seems to be getting weaker than it was when I first bought it.When I first started up the 300 after I bought it,the water outflow was quite strong.

Did monthly cleaning of the impeller housing,hoses and the filter media but the outflow was so weak that I had to add an air pump in order to provide aeration for my livestock which consists of small fishes like platies,corys,tetras and Bossman's rainbows.How to go about solving this problem?

Or should I change to the Pro 3 series like Pro 350 and 600?My tank's capacity is 121 liters.

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> Just want to ask....I had my Ecco Pro 300 for 2 months and I removed the thin black sponge and white sponge. Replaced with a piece of aftermarket thick white sponge.Also put 2 packs of Seachem Renew but my water outflow seems to be getting weaker than it was when I first bought it.When I first started up the 300 after I bought it,the water outflow was quite strong.
> 
> Did monthly cleaning of the impeller housing,hoses and the filter media but the outflow was so weak that I had to add an air pump in order to provide aeration for my livestock which consists of small fishes like platies,corys,tetras and Bossman's rainbows.How to go about solving this problem?
> 
> Or should I change to the Pro 3 series like Pro 350 and 600?My tank's capacity is 121 liters.


Is the aftermarket thick white sponge more dense than the original fine filter wool pad? The added thickness and density will usually contribute to slowdowns in flow rate, as the water encounters more resistance flowing through it.

The 2 packs of Seachem Renew may also be blocking flow, as they are in small granule form, they may get too tightly packed and restrict flow.

Perhaps try reducing the thickness of the aftermarket white sponge and remove some media to give the renew granules more space to "tumble" and allow water through, hopefully that can help restore the original flow rate.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

Yes,the aftermarket white sponge is twice or thrice as thick as the original Eheim one.But will the reduced outflow of my Ecco Pro 300 affect the health of my livestock?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> Yes,the aftermarket white sponge is twice or thrice as thick as the original Eheim one.But will the reduced outflow of my Ecco Pro 300 affect the health of my livestock?


Maybe can just use a pair of scissors and cut it horizontally to half the thickness, that might help. Also check that the white sponge is not over-clogged with trapped particles, that also affects the flow rate.

Reduced outflow just means lower turnover rate, so the tank's water isn't filtered as often... i guess if your bio-load is moderate and the reduction of flow is not too much, it should be okay. Though its still best to adjust the composition of filter media to optimize the flow rate for maximum filtration efficiency.

----------


## Mystikboy

I think it is important to find out the root cause of the slowed flow rate because the filter might be put through too much stress, which may damage it.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

Just asking.....What's the general view of the Pro 3 Limited Edition? Anyone using that for your filter here?

----------


## RenesisTurbo

I just got the Limited Edition of Pro 3 600...Besides cleaning the impeller housing, rinsing the hoses, inlet and outlet pipes,filter media with the tank water, the filter media trays and the canister itself, are there any more parts to wash during monthly maintenance? Do I need strip down the powerhead as well?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> I just got the Limited Edition of Pro 3 600...Besides cleaning the impeller housing, rinsing the hoses, inlet and outlet pipes,filter media with the tank water, the filter media trays and the canister itself, are there any more parts to wash during monthly maintenance? Do I need strip down the powerhead as well?


Its not necessary to dismantle the motor itself for cleaning (its not exposed to water anyways),... just cleaning all the other parts you mentioned is sufficient, and more than enough work to do.  :Grin:

----------


## RenesisTurbo

Okay....You seem to know a lot about Eheim filters haha.I asked around Y618 and C328 about the leaking problems regarding the Pro 3 Limited Edition and the bosses told me that so far there seems to be not much complaints on that area or any defects.Both the florist and Y618 shops seems to have satisfied customers who bought the 2075 models.

----------


## AQMS

Where is the leak? Do you manage to track it?

----------


## milk_vanilla

It won't be called as limited edition, if keep leaking 


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## RenesisTurbo

Mine did not have any leaks......I was reading up the problems of Pro 3 faced by users in Europe. Just curious so asking here.Maybe should standby a unit of my old Ecco Pro 300 for any emergency cases.

----------


## mUAr_cHEe

> The white sponge should be rinsed in the old tank water too, but if you see it already turn dark brown or black, then its time to change to a new white sponge (this is the only item in the filter that needs to be replaced regularly).


Idol, how often do you replace your white sponge?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> Idol, how often do you replace your white sponge?


Depends on how quickly they accumulate dirt and debris... but on average for my filter units, i usually change the white filter wool around once every 3 months.

I buy those white filter wool sheets in packs and just cut them to shape to fit in my filters, much more economical.  :Smile:

----------


## RenesisTurbo

May I know if there are shut off taps selling for Eheim Pro 3 Limited Edition 600 outside in LFS? Thinking of getting 2 pieces.....Anyone knows the cost for it?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> May I know if there are shut off taps selling for Eheim Pro 3 Limited Edition 600 outside in LFS? Thinking of getting 2 pieces.....Anyone knows the cost for it?


If you are referring to double taps, you can get them from most of the popular LFS like C328 or Seaview (or can also check at Qian Hu since they are the distributor).

The original 16/22 eheim versions usually cost around $50-$60 each... you could also get the cheaper china-brand versions (the ones with red color lock nuts) for maybe half the price, not sure about their actual reliability though, but i guess they should work too.

----------


## kreuzberg

Hi, 

I am currently starting a 4ftx1.5x1.5 tank and will use together with a chiller and canister. Could you please recommend the oat suitable model from Eheim? I will run a low-mid tech type of planted tank with mainly crypts, corydoras and schooling fish. 

I looked at Eheim Pro3 2075 vs 2017 , as the Pro3 has a little more power. Would that be sufficient?

Thanks in advance

----------


## Phillipians

Personally, I would like to see myself using 2 filters if it is a 4 ft tank. Helps the circulation. I prefer that to one canister. But it is just a preference. I do no actually own a 4 ft tank yet heh.

If I do own one, I would get two sets of 2217 filters. One powering a chiller. Or you could get a 2075 with an additional 2217 for extra circulation.

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> Hi, 
> 
> I am currently starting a 4ftx1.5x1.5 tank and will use together with a chiller and canister. Could you please recommend the oat suitable model from Eheim? I will run a low-mid tech type of planted tank with mainly crypts, corydoras and schooling fish. 
> 
> I looked at Eheim Pro3 2075 vs 2017 , as the Pro3 has a little more power. Would that be sufficient?
> 
> Thanks in advance


If you are using the filter with a chiller, you'll need to check the chiller's recommended flow rate (if its too fast the water may not get chilled as efficiently). 

Since your tank is large, it may be a better idea to use 2 filters... perhaps a higher flow rate filter as the main filter, and a slower flow rate filter to use with the chiller. Like what Phillipians mentioned, using 2 filters can also help improve circulation in the tank and reduce dead spots.

----------


## kreuzberg

thanks 

i thought the eheim pro3 allows water flow adjustments. 

I would like to avoid using too many pipes, so I believe the eheim pro3 will be just fine. I do not need current in the tank for sure. this will all depend on the fish in the end. 

Best Regards

----------


## Phillipians

While you do not need currents, more filters allow for better circulation and as UA said, it prevents dead spots which is vital for algae prevention and also better overall growth of plants. That said, of course an eheim pro 3 is more than sufficient to handle a 4ft. Its more of a preference

----------


## Phillipians

Oh and forgot to add, having 2 filters you would of course use one at each end to prevent overcrowding of pipes in one corner.

----------


## kreuzberg

I understand - let's see how I end up. I actually do not have the chiller yet, so it would obviously depend on the specs. 

Will keep you posted. Thanks again for the advice and agree on the better circulation.

----------


## mercur1al

> If you are using the filter with a chiller, you'll need to check the chiller's recommended flow rate (if its too fast the water may not get chilled as efficiently). 
> 
> Since your tank is large, it may be a better idea to use 2 filters... perhaps a higher flow rate filter as the main filter, and a slower flow rate filter to use with the chiller. Like what Phillipians mentioned, using 2 filters can also help improve circulation in the tank and reduce dead spots.


Hi UA,

Read that you only use the filter wool and Seachem matrix. The place i am buying my 2215 from gave me 2 options, one with the original Eheim media and one without. Difference in cost is roughly $40 or so.

What would you recommend? Any idea on how much media i require as well, if i use all the original pads except the carbon one? Specs seem to suggest 4L, taking into account the filter pads, would 3L of media suffice?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> Hi UA,
> 
> Read that you only use the filter wool and Seachem matrix. The place i am buying my 2215 from gave me 2 options, one with the original Eheim media and one without. Difference in cost is roughly $40 or so.
> 
> What would you recommend? Any idea on how much media i require as well, if i use all the original pads except the carbon one? Specs seem to suggest 4L, taking into account the filter pads, would 3L of media suffice?


For my canister filters, the flow layout is = coarse sponge -> seachem matrix -> fine white filter wool. I also add in a pack of purigen after the last filter wool layer in those tanks with higher bio-loads or tannins.

I guess in your case, it depends on whether you prefer to use your own bio-media or use the eheim ones... cost-wise, 1 liter of seachem matrix is around S$18, so 3 liters of it would work out to S$54, which means you'll need to spend abit more overall if you choose that route (after discounting the difference in price between the 2 eheim packages).

If i remember correctly, the eheim 2215 media that comes packaged with the full set comprises of a portion mechanical media (those ring shaped things) and a portion of bio media (substrat pro)... so it's whether you want to use those or get the non-media package and then just fill the canister with more bio-media of your own choice.

----------


## mercur1al

> For my canister filters, the flow layout is = coarse sponge -> seachem matrix -> fine white filter wool. I also add in a pack of purigen after the last filter wool layer in those tanks with higher bio-loads or tannins.
> 
> I guess in your case, it depends on whether you prefer to use your own bio-media or use the eheim ones... cost-wise, 1 liter of seachem matrix is around S$18, so 3 liters of it would work out to S$54, which means you'll need to spend abit more overall if you choose that route (after discounting the difference in price between the 2 eheim packages).
> 
> If i remember correctly, the eheim 2215 media that comes packaged with the full set comprises of a portion mechanical media (those ring shaped things) and a portion of bio media (substrat pro)... so it's whether you want to use those or get the non-media package and then just fill the canister with more bio-media of your own choice.


Yup the 2215 comes packaged with those 2 items you mentioned.

I actually wanted the Ecco pro, but I already have double taps so thought it will be a waste or have to end up selling it. 

The matrix appeals to me as its touted as long lasting without need to replace. Just wondering aloud if I need 2 or 3 liters.

I assume your course filter is the blue one, and leads up to the white wool filter?


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## Urban Aquaria

> The matrix appeals to me as its touted as long lasting without need to replace. Just wondering aloud if I need 2 or 3 liters.


Yeah, you get alot of effective bio surface area with Matrix too, i guess you could just buy 2 liters of it first and try... its better to keep the media compartments less packed for improved circulation. If you find that its okay to fit more into the filter, then can buy another liter to top it up.




> I assume your course filter is the blue one, and leads up to the white wool filter?


Yes, the coarse filter sponge is the blue one with larger pore spaces, its mainly to trap larger debris. Thats the sponge which will need to be rinsed regularly to dislodge trapped debris during filter maintenance.

----------


## mercur1al

> Yeah, you get alot of effective bio surface area with Matrix too, i guess you could just buy 2 liters of it first and try... its better to keep the media compartments less packed for improved circulation. If you find that its okay to fit more into the filter, then can buy another liter to top it up.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, the coarse filter sponge is the blue one with larger pore spaces, its mainly to trap larger debris. Thats the sponge which will need to be rinsed regularly to dislodge trapped debris during filter maintenance.



Just got the 2215 non media version.

Realized it's more worth it imo if you don't intend to use the bundled media.

Was expecting just one piece of blue sponge, one white and a carbon pad, but instead there are 5 blue sponges.

They are not worth much since it's fairly cheap to buy a big pack of wool and cut, but for lazy people like me who have OCD (diy cut pad needs to be as round and as identical to original pads), it makes maintaining the filter easier.

Though now I am undecided about how many coarse filter pads to use. 


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## Urban Aquaria

5 blue coarse sponges? Thats a very generous amount. Most people just use one piece, so i guess you can keep the rest as spares.  :Smile:

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## AQMS

> They are not worth much since it's fairly cheap to buy a big pack of wool and cut, but for lazy people like me who have OCD (diy cut pad needs to be as round and as identical to original pads), it makes maintaining the filter easier.
> 
> Though now I am undecided about how many coarse filter pads to use. 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What i do is, i buy the big pack white wool and cut it slightly bigger than the tray.I will fold the side to make it a tight fit in the canister tray.
I didn't use the blue sponge, all are whites.

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## mercur1al

> What i do is, i buy the big pack white wool and cut it slightly bigger than the tray.I will fold the side to make it a tight fit in the canister tray.
> I didn't use the blue sponge, all are whites.


Thanks for the tip! That's what I will look to do in future.

Just realized the white sponge I have been using all along is in fact pretty coarse as compared to the original eheim white sponge. Guess they are similar to the blue ones, just different coloured.

Have to hunt for finer white sponge eventually I guess.


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## Urban Aquaria

Yeah, the coarse sponge used for first stage mechanical filtration is usually those made out of tough nylon material and you can see through it easily... while fine filter wool is like a dense "wool" fibrous texture.

Most people usually buy those rectangular sheets of 3rd-party brand fine white filter wool and DIY cut them to shape (i always pre-cut a stack of them for standby too), because its usually changed at every filter maintenance. Once it turns brown and clogged with dirt its impossible to effectively wash away the tiny trapped particles for re-use anyways.

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## AQMS

I never recycle them even though it says reusable.

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## stream

IMG_2609.JPG

I just curious; for the inflow pipe(to the filter canister), does it matter if the short end is in the tank or the long end?

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## Shadow

Does not really matter as long as fit your need. For example, sometime there are rocks or plants under it, thus you put the short end in the tank.

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## Urban Aquaria

Yeah, you can position the eheim plastic intake pipe via either end... though it is usually better to have the intake closer to the bottom of the tank to draw in more of the larger debris and sediments washed across the substrate by the flow.

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## Bieffe

Guys want to seek some advice.
I'm running a 2213 for my 2ft tank with a chiller.
it seems a tad weak but water is pretty much gushing out.
My tank is less than half planted with co2. Small fishes of tetra gourami danion and rummy nose.
Do I need a bigger canister? Classic 350 or economic 300?
Best can used back all my double taps and 12/16 hose and lolly pipes.

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## sheng

2215 is using the same double taps for 12/16 hose

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## Bieffe

You reckon 2215 good enough?
My output 1 end at the direct opposite end...my long tall grass don't move. Does that means not enough flow? Total fishes 40 to 50.

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## Bieffe

2215 equivalent will be Eco 300 and pro 300?
But was told classic most reliable. ...how bro?

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## Urban Aquaria

If the chiller is reducing overall flow and you find that more flow is required, then upgrading to an Eheim 2215 (350) would be good... it has a 620 l/ph flow rate and larger filter media volume, so it'll help improve the overall circulation and filtration.

The Ecco Pro 300 has an even higher flow rate at 750 l/ph and comes with inbuilt taps with an easy priming system, and its more energy efficient (only uses 8 watts), but it costs more, so it just depends on your budget.

The Classic series is considered more reliable mainly because its design is very simple (without any extra features), so there are potentially less things that could break or go faulty. I guess it depends on how careful you are at handling and maintaining the filters.  :Smile:

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## Bieffe

Thanks UA. So u reckon these models enough?
Cos I feel is not enough now with my 2213 as leaves at the opposite side doesn't move. is that a good gauge?

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## Urban Aquaria

> Thanks UA. So u reckon these models enough?
> Cos I feel is not enough now with my 2213 as leaves at the opposite side doesn't move. is that a good gauge?


Either eheim model would be suitable... both will improve the circulation. I use an Ecco Pro 300 connected to Co2 reactor for my 2ft planted tank and the overall flow was just right, didn't need to adjust the taps.

Whether there is enough flow and circulation in the tank would also depend on your hardscape and plant layout, and also the position of the outflow pipe. Adjusting those factors can help improve circulation too.

Ideally most of the plants in the direction of the flow should just be swaying slightly (not too much though, just a little), but even if they don't seem to be moving, as long as you can see suspended particles floating past the plants, it can also indicate there is already sufficient flow in those areas.

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## Bieffe

The power saving of ecco pro 300 vs 2215 is 8w vs 15w and the ecco has higher flow rate. However I have some concerns. 
The ecco pro canister is very small...even smaller than my 2213! So little media. The classic series can have lots of media...that's a big big plus right?
Just worried if getting the 2215 the flow similar to 2213....then I will feel so genna plug.

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## Bieffe

Got another idea..what if I add a skimmer at the 'dead' corner...just drop 2 dots of coloured medi to see flow...is moving towards the corner....then very slowly back. My inlet and outlet are side by side.

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## Urban Aquaria

> The power saving of ecco pro 300 vs 2215 is 8w vs 15w and the ecco has higher flow rate. However I have some concerns. 
> The ecco pro canister is very small...even smaller than my 2213! So little media. The classic series can have lots of media...that's a big big plus right?
> Just worried if getting the 2215 the flow similar to 2213....then I will feel so genna plug.


Yeah, the Ecco Pro 300 filter media volume is similar to the 2213, while the 2215 is larger with more filter media volume (less features, more space)... so it'll just depend on whether you prefer higher flow rate + less power consumption or you prefer higher filter media volume.




> Got another idea..what if I add a skimmer at the 'dead' corner...just drop 2 dots of coloured medi to see flow...is moving towards the corner....then very slowly back. My inlet and outlet are side by side.


Installing a surface skimmer and facing it at dead spots or lower flow areas can help, it's quite a common way to solve circulation issues and also get the benefits of removing surface oil film too.

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## skytan

Hijack abit since I saw the surface skimmer bought up.

Saw a few setups when a surface skimmer is used the inlet is opposite of the lily pipe. Instead of the same side why is that so?

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## Bieffe

I think that's to facilitate flow. Lily pipe out towards skimmer...skimmer draws water in and output 90 degrees from lily. Thus water will move about.

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## mercur1al

Quick check with you guys running Eheim 2215 with purigen.

Where do you place the purigen pack? Usually, it goes on top of everything, right above the white fine pad. However, the 2215 come with lattice screens, and has a fat "leg" right in the centre. 



I am using the 100ml purigen pack with the original seachem bag provided. When placed last and above the white filter pad, the "fat leg" presses into the purigen bag. Concerned if prolonged usage will cause the bag to burst. How do you guys place your purigen?

Image from Google images.

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## Urban Aquaria

Purigen packs should ideally be placed at the last layer after the white filter wool, so your placement is correct.

You should reduce the rest of the filter media so that it can create sufficient space for the purigen pack. The purigen pack should not be squashed.

For best performance, the granules in the pack should be able to move around freely... otherwise if its compacted, the water will flow around it and there will be less contact with the granules (and hence less effectiveness).

You can check the efficiency by looking at the pack after a few weeks of usage, all the granules should be a uniform brown color. If you see some parts brown but other parts lighter color or still beige, then it means water is not flowing freely though the whole pack.

In your case, for the filter grate, you could just trim off the plastic "fat leg" and sand it smooth, so that it doesn't press onto the purigen pack.

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## mercur1al

> Purigen packs should ideally be placed at the last layer after the white filter wool, so your placement is correct.
> 
> You should reduce the rest of the filter media so that it can create sufficient space for the purigen pack. The purigen pack should not be squashed.
> 
> For best performance, the granules in the pack should be able to move around freely... otherwise if its compacted, the water will flow around it and there will be less contact with the granules (and hence less effectiveness).
> 
> You can check the efficiency by looking at the pack after a few weeks of usage, all the granules should be a uniform brown color. If you see some parts brown but other parts lighter color or still beige, then it means water is not flowing freely though the whole pack.
> 
> In your case, for the filter grate, you could just trim off the plastic "fat leg" and sand it smooth, so that it doesn't press onto the purigen pack.



Yup for my previous canister, i followed your suggestion of placing Purigen above the white filter wool and it worked well.

Currently still wondering if i should remove some media, or cut off the "fat leg". Can't find anything on google or related forums about anyone who has cut off the leg. From the way i look at it, even if i were to reduce media, the lattice screen leg will still press onto the purigen pack, hence cutting off the leg would make more sense. Just slightly concerned that the "leg" might actually be an important part of the lattice screen.  :Laughing:

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> Just slightly concerned that the "leg" might actually be an important part of the lattice screen.


From the looks of it, the middle plastic leg piece might just be meant to push into any sponges next to it, perhaps to prevent excessive movement? If so, then its not really essential because that wouldn't be required in your filter layout anyways.

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## Bieffe

Guys how abt the experience range? Any comments?

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## Urban Aquaria

> Guys how abt the experience range? Any comments?


I'm currently still using a 2224 model (now called the eXperience 250)... it works well and has a large filter media volume, along with inbuilt taps. Its quite energy efficient too, running at just 8 watts for a 700 l/ph flow rate system.

----------


## Bieffe

> I'm currently still using a 2224 model (now called the eXperience 250)... it works well and has a large filter media volume, along with inbuilt taps. Its quite energy efficient too, running at just 8 watts for a 700 l/ph flow rate system.


Thanks UA. I got myself experience 250 (2424) instead of the 2215....cos I don't like the lower bottom input.
In the process I broke my glass inlet!
Just 1 knock when I pull the pipes...it broke. While cleaning my 2213 I broke the shaft!
Flow rate much improved compared to my old 2213.
The 2424 I use my old Eheim Mech ceramic followed by coarse blue sponge then Azoo with sub strate pro...then fine white sponge.

----------


## AQMS

> I'm currently still using a 2224 model (now called the eXperience 250)... it works well and has a large filter media volume, along with inbuilt taps. Its quite energy efficient too, running at just 8 watts for a 700 l/ph flow rate system.


Do you still have the box? Where it is made from? Just curious..

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> Do you still have the box? Where it is made from? Just curious..


I don't have the box anymore but i did remember seeing a "made in germany" printed on the side of the box, though the unit i'm using is around 4-5 years old... not sure about the newer models though.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

I am looking for a Eheim hanging or internal filter for my livebearing breeding tank.The tank currently holds around 25-30 liters of water.....

I do have the Eheim Liberty 75 or Pickup 45 in mind.Which one is more suitable?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> I am looking for a Eheim hanging or internal filter for my livebearing breeding tank.The tank currently holds around 25-30 liters of water.....
> 
> I do have the Eheim Liberty 75 or Pickup 45 in mind.Which one is more suitable?


The Liberty 75 would be better, hang-on filters are installed externally so they don't take up valuable space inside the tank and their externally mounted motors wouldn't transfer as much heat into the water too.

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## RenesisTurbo

> The Liberty 75 would be better, hang-on filters are installed externally so they don't take up valuable space inside the tank and their externally mounted motors wouldn't transfer as much heat into the water too.


Liberty 75 roughly how much and is it widely available everywhere? My friend lent me a Pickup 45 and I noticed that my platy fries kept getting sucked and a few even died without making it to adulthood.

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## Urban Aquaria

> Liberty 75 roughly how much and is it widely available everywhere? My friend lent me a Pickup 45 and I noticed that my platy fries kept getting sucked and a few even died without making it to adulthood.


The Eheim Liberty model range are one of the more expensive hang-on filters around (for their size), if i remember correctly the Liberty 75 models should be retailing for around S$30-$40... it costs 3-4 times more than equivalent sized hang-on filters from other brands, though the Eheim build quality and reliably is usually better. You can check at popular LFS like C328 or Seaview to find Eheim hang-on filters.

If you are using power filters for a fry grow-out tank, you'll need to install fine pore sponge guards on the intakes and also further reduce the filter's flow rate much lower, so that the fry don't get sucked in or injured.

The better alternative for fry tanks is to use sponge filters instead, they generate much less flow and still offer very good biological filtration.

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## RenesisTurbo

Hi, UA.....Can you show me a pic of the sponge filter? Think will like to get it asap.

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## Urban Aquaria

> Hi, UA.....Can you show me a pic of the sponge filter? Think will like to get it asap.


Here are some examples:



Photo from Google Images.

You will also need to buy an air pump, silicone air line tubing, flow control valve and check valve to setup the sponge filter system.

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## RenesisTurbo

Thanks, UA.

----------


## cumzilla

hi, interested to get 2215, just happen to follow the posts in the last 2 pages and kept reading the white layer is the last layer, but the layouts at its product page shows otherwise or issit just for reference only?

https://www.eheim.com/en_GB/products...rs/classic-350#

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> hi, interested to get 2215, just happen to follow the posts in the last 2 pages and kept reading the white layer is the last layer, but the layouts at its product page shows otherwise or issit just for reference only?
> 
> https://www.eheim.com/en_GB/products...rs/classic-350#


The layouts show the white filter wool as the last layer (before the black carbon pad)... it's correct as the internal filter flow direction is from the intake at the bottom up to the output at the top.

Note that the black carbon pad is included in the filter package for initial use only during the first 2 weeks of setup (it has limited lifespan to adsorb impurities), after that it is removed and thrown away. So only the white filter wool is a permanent last layer in the filter.

----------


## cumzilla

> The layouts show the white filter wool as the last layer (before the black carbon pad)... it's correct as the internal filter flow direction is from the intake at the bottom up to the output at the top.
> 
> Note that the black carbon pad is included in the filter package for initial use only during the first 2 weeks of setup (it has limited lifespan to adsorb impurities), after that it is removed and thrown away. So only the white filter wool is a permanent last layer in the filter.


Ic, thanks for the info. as i thought the last layer is at bottom of the canister

----------


## cumzilla

> Hi UA,
> 
> Read that you only use the filter wool and Seachem matrix. The place i am buying my 2215 from gave me 2 options, one with the original Eheim media and one without. Difference in cost is roughly $40 or so.
> 
> What would you recommend? Any idea on how much media i require as well, if i use all the original pads except the carbon one? Specs seem to suggest 4L, taking into account the filter pads, would 3L of media suffice?


hi, now i am also undecided to get the one with media or the one without. I know nuts about media so dont know which media to get if i get the one without. Please give some advice, thanks. Mine is a 2ft tank with ten 1.5"-2.5" ranchus.

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> hi, now i am also undecided to get the one with media or the one without. I know nuts about media so dont know which media to get if i get the one without. Please give some advice, thanks. Mine is a 2ft tank with ten 1.5"-2.5" ranchus.


If you prefer a particular of bio-media or already have seasoned bio-media from another tank, then it would be good to buy the no-media filter package, the savings can be put towards separately buying other items that you want.

But if you are not sure, then just get the filter package that includes everything, the included eheim media are okay to use too.

----------


## cumzilla

> If you prefer a particular of bio-media or already have seasoned bio-media from another tank, then it would be good to buy the no-media filter package, the savings can be put towards separately buying other items that you want.
> 
> But if you are not sure, then just get the filter package that includes everything, the included eheim media are okay to use too.


dont have any media before, 1st time getting canister. Can i add another layer of other media, such as seachem matrix or purigen, in addition to the eheim media given? Or can i mix with the eheim media, if i have coral chips, do i put another layer of that or mix, sorry if my questions sound stupid  :Huh?:

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> dont have any media before, 1st time getting canister. Can i add another layer of other media, such as seachem matrix or purigen, in addition to the eheim media given? Or can i mix with the eheim media, if i have coral chips, do i put another layer of that or mix, sorry if my questions sound stupid


Sounds like its better if you buy the full filter packages with media included.

Usually once you fill up the filter with the included media, it should be full already, so not much space left to put more media.

You could still take some media out to create space and replace with other media though, its up to you to customize it... can just try different combinations and see which work best for your setup.

----------


## cumzilla

> Sounds like its better if you buy the full filter packages with media included.
> 
> Usually once you fill up the filter with the included media, it should be full already, so not much space left to put more media.
> 
> You could still take some media out to create space and replace with other media though, its up to you to customize it... can just try different combinations and see which work best for your setup.


thanks for the advice, very much appreciated  :Smile:

----------


## freezze

wanted to decommission my existing fluval canister filter 404 due to frequent breaking of the impeller cover, which Eheim filter should i get for a 3ft tank. 
2071 or 2073?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> wanted to decommission my existing fluval canister filter 404 due to frequent breaking of the impeller cover, which Eheim filter should i get for a 3ft tank. 
> 2071 or 2073?


If your budget permits, always go for the larger filter model with higher flow rate... you will have more options and if necessary, can always adjust the flow lower with the inbuilt taps.  :Very Happy:

----------


## tureblue82

actually squeezing a pk of purigen in is ok.

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> actually squeezing a pk of purigen in is ok.


Yeah, a 100ml pack of Purigen can usually still fit in a filled up canister filter... just have to make sure the area the Purigen pack is placed in is spacious enough for the granules to move around freely (not compacted together), mainly so that water can pass through all the granules in the middle of the pack and achieve maximum adsorption effect, rather than just flowing past the outer layers.  :Smile:

----------


## skytan

Is there an instructional video/material out there to teach how to open up the 2036 to wash the impeller?

The manual that comes with the canister don't have much info. 

My previous canister was a 2113 which was very simple.

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> Is there an instructional video/material out there to teach how to open up the 2036 to wash the impeller?
> 
> The manual that comes with the canister don't have much info. 
> 
> My previous canister was a 2113 which was very simple.


For the 2036 (aka Ecco Pro 300), simply open the top, flip it over, pinch the plastic cover side clips and remove it, then you can can access the impeller and all the other small parts for cleaning.

Btw, the instructions with step-by-step photos on how to remove the impeller cover is shown in the manual booklet that comes with the filter, try to search for it.

An example of the manual (see the last 3 photos in the manual instructions):



Photo from Google Images.

----------


## cumzilla

Got myself a 2215 with media today, haven really set it up or read the manual, can advise if i want to put in coral chips, at which layer should i put them? also any other precautions to take note when running the filter for the 1st time? TIA.

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> Got myself a 2215 with media today, haven really set it up or read the manual, can advise if i want to put in coral chips, at which layer should i put them? also any other precautions to take note when running the filter for the 1st time? TIA.


Coral chips can be put into the middle layer, usually you would layer the media in terms of its size.... inflow > larger media > smaller media > outflow. 

For the classic series filters, just follow the instructions to setup and prime it (don't swallow the tank water!  :Grin: ). If you initially hear bubbling or gurgling noises from the impeller area, tip the canister filter body left and right to help shake out the trapped air bubbles, it should eventually settle down to run quietly from there on.

----------


## cumzilla

my 2215 is leaking at the intake, just beneath the elbow, issit to do with the o-ring? google for solution, some suggest to change to a bigger o-ring, then use teflon tape on the thread before screwing it back, will it help?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> my 2215 is leaking at the intake, just beneath the elbow, issit to do with the o-ring? google for solution, some suggest to change to a bigger o-ring, then use teflon tape on the thread before screwing it back, will it help?


Usually you just need to hand tighten the elbow joint for it to be water tight. If it still leaks then i guess installing a larger o-ring and wrapping teflon tape could help, have to try and see.

----------


## Shadow

how old is the filter? your o-ring could be degraded due to age.

----------


## cumzilla

its new, anyway no more leak as at this moment after wrapping 3 rounds telfon tape and unscrewing and screwing back again

----------


## cumzilla

it is true that we try not to control the flow rate with the tap installed, even if the flow is too strong, as it may affect the system in the long run? this is what i had read, as the double tap is just for convenience sake during maintenance and not to control the flow..

----------


## Jimmy

You can install the control valve / tap but got to be at outlet piping, not the inlet piping.

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> it is true that we try not to control the flow rate with the tap installed, even if the flow is too strong, as it may affect the system in the long run? this is what i had read, as the double tap is just for convenience sake during maintenance and not to control the flow..


Its generally okay to control the flow rate using the outflow tap, thats how flow is adjusted as recommended by filter manufacturers... it the same as like how our bathroom or kitchen taps work. Even sponges and bio-media clogging up also reduce flow in the same way too. From my experience, i have larger filters adjusted to around 50% flow and they are still running fine for years.

Of course, its probably not so good to have to have to adjust the outflow tap so much until its almost closed (ie. 90% closed), that would probably put a fair bit more load and pressure on the motor and impeller system. In that case, better to use other methods to diffuse and reduce the flow instead.

----------


## cumzilla

> Its generally okay to control the flow rate using the outflow tap, thats how flow is adjusted as recommended by filter manufacturers... it the same as like how our bathroom or kitchen taps work. Even sponges and bio-media clogging up also reduce flow in the same way too. From my experience, i have larger filters adjusted to around 50% flow and they are still running fine for years.
> 
> Of course, its probably not so good to have to have to adjust the outflow tap so much until its almost closed (ie. 90% closed), that would probably put a fair bit more load and pressure on the motor and impeller system. In that case, better to use other methods to diffuse and reduce the flow instead.


thanks for the info.  :Well done:

----------


## desmondsim

Hi bros.. i am new in aquarium keeping.. i would like to ask . Any bros here use ehiem ecco 300? Any feed back on this canister?

----------


## aza

> Hi bros.. i am new in aquarium keeping.. i would like to ask . Any bros here use ehiem ecco 300? Any feed back on this canister?


Me. I have another 2217 too. Still prefer the classic version; the ecco pro's handle feels like breaking every time I do cleaning. Why not go with 2215? It has almost similar filter rate with Ecco Pro 300.

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> Hi bros.. i am new in aquarium keeping.. i would like to ask . Any bros here use ehiem ecco 300? Any feed back on this canister?


Its a good filter, i've been using them for my planted 2ft tanks over the past few years ... its inbuilt swivel taps and easy-priming features are useful, while the flow rate of 750 l/ph is ample for circulation (especially when inline equipment like Co2 reactors or chillers are added) and it uses only 8 watts so quite energy efficient.

----------


## desmondsim

Thanks bros.. for your information..by the way .. do you all know where can i buy this canister at a cheaper price?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> Thanks bros.. for your information..by the way .. do you all know where can i buy this canister at a cheaper price?


I guess thats what everyone wants to know too.  :Grin: 

Maybe you can check at Seaview, they have 15% discount on aquarium equipment so you might be able to find a good deal there (not sure if the discounts apply to certain eheim filter models though, you'll just have to check).

----------


## Jimmy

Last I compared 2 years ago, C328 price is cheaper than Seaview after discount price plus C328 can use credit card, earn points or get a bit of cashback etc. However things may have changed, can just call them up to check. Another option is call NA too.

----------


## desmondsim

Ok. Thanks bros.. will check and update here again..

----------


## desmondsim

Going to sea view tomorrow

----------


## cumzilla

> Last I compared 2 years ago, C328 price is cheaper than Seaview after discount price plus C328 can use credit card, earn points or get a bit of cashback etc. However things may have changed, can just call them up to check. Another option is call NA too.


yes, i bot mine at C328, if the one on the shelf at seaview contain media, then it will only be abit cheaper, but if no media, then it will be a whole lot cheaper  :Grin: , unless there is 15% discount, never ask about it

----------


## desmondsim

Oh i see.. you mean this ehiem ecco 300 canister comes in two types of packing? With and without media? Ok.. will ask them for both the pricing? Thanks for the information . Bro..

----------


## Dscheng

Hehe anyone want to get 6 month ecco pro 2, 600/h flow rate. Condition as good as new. Can PM me. By the way this series is pretty solid.

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> Oh i see.. you mean this ehiem ecco 300 canister comes in two types of packing? With and without media? Ok.. will ask them for both the pricing? Thanks for the information . Bro..


So far i've only seen the Classic series models being offered in the cheaper "without media" packages... but haven't seen the Ecco Pro series come in packages without media yet.

----------


## desmondsim

Thanks bro.. will ask them see they have it..

----------


## desmondsim

Hi bros.. just came back from seaview.. the ehiem ecco 300 they are selling at $239 nett.. and they dont sell it without the media.. full package..

----------


## desmondsim

Is it cheap?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

Is that before their 15% discount? 

If not, then its rather high... i got mine at less than $200, but that was a few years ago, so not sure if there is a newer version that costs more now.

----------


## desmondsim

I asked them. They told me there is no 15% discount on ehiem product that are with yellow price tags.. items with white colour price tags .. yes.. 15% discount..

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> I asked them. They told me there is no 15% discount on ehiem product that are with yellow price tags.. items with white colour price tags .. yes.. 15% discount..


Wow, sounds like the prices have increased. I guess you just have to shop around and see if there are better deals around.

----------


## Jimmy

Inflation...  :Sad:

----------


## desmondsim

Yup. Bro.. need to go around and check the pricing..

----------


## cumzilla

or buy 2nd hand

----------


## desmondsim

I think i buy a new one better.. no need to worry about leakage or other problems ..

----------


## desmondsim

Update the pricing for ehiem ecco 300 .. c328 is selling at$239 nett

----------


## Dscheng

Almost the same as seaview. I going to get it soon. Hehe, who want my Ecco Pro 200?

----------


## Jimmy

> Almost the same as seaview. I going to get it soon. Hehe, who want my Ecco Pro 200?


Upgrading? 2ft tank?

----------


## Dscheng

Mine is 2ft tank. I connect to Co2 reactor and chiller, however slow down my flowrate. Looking at higher flowrate model lo.

----------


## desmondsim

Yup.. same price as seaview .. i think ecco 300 is powerful enough..

----------


## Dscheng

Hmm.. last weekend, i do a 100% cleaning on my canister. After fixing the canister, can feel it is so much stronger. Maybe previously i never clean it well.

----------


## tetrakid

> Yup. Bro.. need to go around and check the pricing..


The difference will be minimal or insignificant. 
Could be because this popular brand's margin is rather low so prices are highly competitive.
Just buy it from any reputable dealer, eg Seaview, C328, etc will do.

----------


## desmondsim

Thanks bro for the advise..

----------


## desmondsim

Is it true that ehiem ecco handle easy to break? I do some research on this product and i find that some people comment on the handle..

----------


## Dscheng

Some people they don't know that if the double tap is shut off, the handle cannot be close. If you forcefully close it maybe the side bracket or handle will break.

----------


## desmondsim

Oh i see.. it cause by the force of water.. thanks..

----------


## Dscheng

Ya..other that that.. i think ECCO pro design and functionality is solid.

----------


## desmondsim

Thanks for the information bro..

----------


## Urban Aquaria

It seems alot of those who broke their ecco pro handles were using the older models (the older ecco versions, not newer ecco pro versions)... i own one of the older ecco models and its handle design has noticeably less supports, so someone who is rough could break it. The newer ecco pro versions have a much more durable reinforced handle design.

I've also seen people filp the handle the opposite way too (even though its obviously wrong due to the resistance), yet they still continue forcing it and end up breaking it. Thats just user error.

And yes, when the taps are closed, forcefully opening and lifting the cover will create a momentary suction vacuum effect within the filter chamber, which can stress the handle and break it too.

As long as the operating instructions are followed properly, the filter will last a very long time without breakage.

----------


## desmondsim

Ok.. i think this will help alot of newbie like me.. thanks.

----------


## raindropzz

I will not recommend Eheim Ecco. The handle breaks easily. Waste of $. And in sg, it's hard to find the spare parts for the handle etc. I know coz mine (Ecco 200) broke during maintenance. This seemed to be a common complain about this model.

----------


## Mystikboy

To the contrary, I found the Ecco a pleasure. I think that if one is careful with the handle, it is a beautifully designed filter that can last the aquarist many years. Alas I sold mine away ):

----------


## Dscheng

I also sold away my ecco pro 200. Agree with the fragile handle. If got a bit more budget go for pro 300 series. Powerful and easy to use. But it is 16/22mm but can easily by using the nut lug convertor.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

I am thinking of getting a second tank which is 120x45x45 in a few months.I am thinking of using 2 units of the Ecco Pro 300 to power up the 2nd tank but is the outflow enough for the tank?I am keeping platies,corys and glowlights for the 4 feet tank.

I am giving my current tank(90x45x45)to the missus for her 5 pieces of Ryukins and using the Limited Edition Pro3 600.Is it an overkill for this tank?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> I am thinking of getting a second tank which is 120x45x45 in a few months.I am thinking of using 2 units of the Ecco Pro 300 to power up the 2nd tank but is the outflow enough for the tank?I am keeping platies,corys and glowlights for the 4 feet tank.
> 
> I am giving my current tank(90x45x45)to the missus for her 5 pieces of Ryukins and using the Limited Edition Pro3 600.Is it an overkill for this tank?


2 x Ecco Pro 300 could be suitable for a 4ft tank, just position their outflows at both sides of the tank (one front, one back) so that there is a circular flow pattern and the filters cover each others dead-spots. Actually even just one Pro3 600 would do the job too.

The 3ft tank would be okay with a Pro3 600 too, just adjust the flow rate lower if its too much for the goldfishes... or can also just use the Ecco Pro 300 instead.

----------


## desmondsim

Bro. Can we use the tap of the filter to control the flow rate?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> Bro. Can we use the tap of the filter to control the flow rate?


Yes, the tap on the outflow hose is used to adjust and reduce the flow rate.

Do note that you should only adjust the outflow tap, not the inflow tap.

----------


## desmondsim

Ok.. any comment on this ehiem 2073 canister?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> Ok.. any comment on this ehiem 2073 canister?


If you have the budget, its a good quality canister filter for a 3ft or larger tank.

----------


## desmondsim

I m using it for my 2ft tank with a hs66a chiller..

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> I m using it for my 2ft tank with a hs66a chiller..


It can be usable for a 2ft tank too... although it has a 1,250 l/ph flow rate, there will be some reduction in the overall flow due to the chiller, and if its still too much, just reduce the flow further using the outflow tap.

----------


## desmondsim

Thanks for the information. Bro.

----------


## madnugget

> I m using it for my 2ft tank with a hs66a chiller..


may i know what temperature you set and how long is the kick in kick out? i'm using 2217 with hs66a and my kick in kick out is 1hr/1hr =(

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> 2 x Ecco Pro 300 could be suitable for a 4ft tank, just position their outflows at both sides of the tank (one front, one back) so that there is a circular flow pattern and the filters cover each others dead-spots. Actually even just one Pro3 600 would do the job too.
> 
> The 3ft tank would be okay with a Pro3 600 too, just adjust the flow rate lower if its too much for the goldfishes... or can also just use the Ecco Pro 300 instead.



So it is ok if I just use one unit of the Ecco Pro 300 for the 3 feet tank(90 x 45 x45) with just 5-7 pieces of goldfishes?

----------


## Tmark

Any idea how much does a eheim 2213 cost now?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> So it is ok if I just use one unit of the Ecco Pro 300 for the 3 feet tank(90 x 45 x45) with just 5-7 pieces of goldfishes?


Yes, you can also just use one Ecco Pro 300 filter for the tank... but if you find that the waste load is high (depending on the sizes of the goldfish) and water conditions are not as optimal, then just have to do more water changes and manually clean/siphon up the waste more often.





> Any idea how much does a eheim 2213 cost now?


Should be around S$120-$130 nowadays (full package with eheim bio-media)... sometimes you might also find versions without any bio-media (just the canister filter unit on its own), and those might retail for as low as S$80-$90.

----------


## Tmark

> Yes, you can also just use one Ecco Pro 300 filter for the tank... but if you find that the waste load is high (depending on the sizes of the goldfish) and water conditions are not as optimal, then just have to do more water changes and manually clean/siphon up the waste more often.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be around S$120-$130 nowadays (full package with eheim bio-media)... sometimes you might also find versions without any bio-media (just the canister filter unit on its own), and those might retail for as low as S$80-$90.


Hi bro thanks for the info

----------


## Jen Lpl

Hi all

Considering upgrading my hof to canister for my 1.5ft tank.

Shortlisted the classic 2215 and experience 250 since they more or less about the same price if you consider the double taps. Which one will you recommend?

The above over kill or should I consider classic 2213 or experience 150 instead?

Thks!

----------


## Urban Aquaria

Go for the eXperience 250 model as it already comes with inbuilt taps, has higher flow rate and is much more energy efficient.

You could use either filter model on a 1.5ft tank, just adjust the outflow tap lower to reduce the flow rate accordingly.

----------


## AQMS

Out of the two mention,250 is a better choice.

----------


## Jen Lpl

Knob on top panel is to control the inlet, outlet or both?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> Knob on top panel is to control the inlet, outlet or both?


If you are referring to the lever taps on the Eheim 250, there are 2 levers, one for the outflow, one for the inflow. Only adjust the outflow lever tap to adjust the flow rate (not the inflow lever tap).

----------


## Stuart Phoon

how abt the 2075. can i use that middle lever thing to control the outflow or do i need to attach the double tap instead?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> how abt the 2075. can i use that middle lever thing to control the outflow or do i need to attach the double tap instead?


Yes, the lever on the 2075 is also designed for adjusting the flow rate.

Only the Classic series models need to buy taps separately. All the other series models (Ecco, eXperience, Pro 3, Pro 4 etc) come with inbuilt taps.

----------


## cosworth

I took out the 1260 from a 2260 and placed it in a 633 FGT to push water out to 2260 green bin intake; 1 1264 on top of the FGT draws the output from top of 2260 and outputs into a series of 3 Eheim rainbars and it flows like a mutha. Reason why I do this is for higher flow rate, and also in case any pump fails, the cannister will run nonetheless... Works like a charm. Second reason is there is no need to prime anytime haha.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

I always do my monthly cleaning/servicing on my Pro 3 600 on the 15th of every month for my 90 x 45 x 45 tank which is based in my living room but I have since ordered another 90 x 45 x 45 tank from Seaview yesterday which is meant to be placed in my study room.

Planned to give the living room fish tank to house the missus's 7 pieces of goldfishes with Ecco Pro 300 as the life support system and the newly ordered tank will be using the Pro 3 600 housing 25 platies, 6 sailfin mollies, 10 corydoras and 24 black phantom tetras with 5cm sealed off with a removable plastic cover with holes to serve as a fry enclosure.

So my questions are-

-Can I skip the monthly servicing for my Pro 600 just this once so that I can move the community fishes into the newly ordered tank after 2 weeks of recycling?I do use OF's 8000 bacteria in the course of cycling the tank.
-Can I mix the water from the old tank(50%) and tap water(50%) in the new tank and cycle the tank from there for 2 weeks with OF's 8000 bacteria added?Or can I just empty out all the water from the old tank into the new one and cycle the tank for 2 weeks from there?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

For your case, just transfer a portion of the seasoned bio-media from your Pro 600 to the new Ecco Pro 300, that will seed it with a starting beneficial bacteria population.

Transfer a portion of the old aquarium water into the new tank so that the parameters don't change too much for the existing fishes, let the Pro 600 run in the new tank for a day, test that the water parameters are okay, then transfer the existing fishes to the new tank. 

As for the older tank that is intended to house goldfishes, let the Ecco Pro 300 (which is seeded with beneficial bacteria in the form of transferred seasoned bio-media) run for a day too, test that parameters are okay, then slowly introduce in the goldfishes one by one in stages.

Dosing the bottled bacteria can help in supplementing the workload of the cycle before the actual beneficial bacteria multiply enough to handle it.

Do note that beneficial bacteria need ammonia to consume and multiply, so there should be an ammonia source (ie. from livestock or active aquasoil) to sustain them. Just leaving a tank running empty with no ammonia source will just result in beneficial bacteria dying off and having to re-cycle the tank again when livestock are subsequently added.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> For your case, just transfer a portion of the seasoned bio-media from your Pro 600 to the new Ecco Pro 300, that will seed it with a starting beneficial bacteria population.
> 
> Transfer a portion of the old aquarium water into the new tank so that the parameters don't change too much for the existing fishes, let the Pro 600 run in the new tank for a day, test that the water parameters are okay, then transfer the existing fishes to the new tank. 
> 
> As for the older tank that is intended to house goldfishes, let the Ecco Pro 300 (which is seeded with beneficial bacteria in the form of transferred seasoned bio-media) run for a day too, test that parameters are okay, then slowly introduce in the goldfishes one by one in stages.
> 
> Dosing the bottled bacteria can help in supplementing the workload of the cycle before the actual beneficial bacteria multiply enough to handle it.
> 
> Do note that beneficial bacteria need ammonia to consume and multiply, so there should be an ammonia source (ie. from livestock or active aquasoil) to sustain them. Just leaving a tank running empty with no ammonia source will just result in beneficial bacteria dying off and having to re-cycle the tank again when livestock are subsequently added.


Do I need to add a pack of Purigen and Renew in the Ecco Pro 300 as well for the goldfishes?I currently have 2 packs of Renew and 1 pack of Purigen in my Pro 3 600 as well cos it really keeps the water in my community tank super clean and clear as well.

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> Do I need to add a pack of Purigen and Renew in the Ecco Pro 300 as well for the goldfishes?I currently have 2 packs of Renew and 1 pack of Purigen in my Pro 3 600 as well cos it really keeps the water in my community tank super clean and clear as well.


If you share seasoned bio-media between your filters, they will contain established beneficial bacteria populations to grow and handle the bio-load. Its also fine to add Purigen and Renew packs to help further adsorb and reduce excess organic compounds too (especially if your tanks have few or no plants to do those jobs).

----------


## RenesisTurbo

Just to check again cos I am getting my filter right now....

I am keeping 5 to 7 pieces of goldfish and planning to just use 1 unit of the Eheim Ecco Pro 300 in my 90 x 45 x 45 tank.So is it suitable for the goldfish and tank of my size?

----------


## Stuart Phoon

I also had the same query about whether my filters will be overkill for my 60x60x60 tank. I am currently using a 2nd hand pro 3 600 and ecco pro 300. It doesnt cause a whirlpool and my plants r swaying SLIGHTLY only. I think the flow also weakened due to the lily pipes and the very long distance the water needs to get pumped through.

Oh ya and i just remembered that yesterday when i put my snails into the tank, they were swirling slowly around the tank perimeter, which means that even with two filters, it will not be overkill

----------


## RenesisTurbo

So sorry to ask this question again.....I did not get a unit of the Ecco Pro 300 on Sunday cos I wanted to make doubly sure that it is suitable for my 5-7 Ryukins or Bubble-Eyes and they are housed in my old 90 x 45 x 45 tank.

I just plan to use one unit of Ecco Pro 300 with the original filter media and 1 packet each of Seachem Renew and Purigen.So is this filter set-up enough for my goldfishes?A guy at Y618 commented that I should have used the Pro 3 600 instead of Ecco Pro 300 for the goldfishes.

----------


## Stuart Phoon

if i am you i will get pro 3 600. MUCH more space for filer media

----------


## Dscheng

My opinion is that Pro 3 600 is overkill for your 90cm tank. 1250 lph flowrate, do you really need so strong flow rate? Not to mention Pro 3 600 should be at SGD$500+ range?
I will suggest you look into Pro 3 350 instead, 1050 lph , ample space for you to hold the bio media, price range should be SGD$300+.

Ecco Pro 3 - SGD$280 , 750lph
Pro 3 350 - SGD$300+ , 1050lph
Pro 3 600 - SGD$400+, 1250lph
Classic 2217 - SGD$280+, 1050lph

Hehe, my overkill 2 canister for my 94L and 64L tank.

----------


## Stuart Phoon

pro 3 600 is 400 at seaview including media.

----------


## Dscheng

Thanks for correcting me. The price initially i had mention is taken from website Fresh N marine. Hehe just a guideline, it could be cheaper.

----------


## Urban Aquaria

Yeah, the Fresh N Marine website listed prices tend to be more inflated compared to actual prices at most LFS, so the cost of those canister filter models are actually not that high. Just have to shop around to find the better deals.  :Very Happy:

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> So sorry to ask this question again.....I did not get a unit of the Ecco Pro 300 on Sunday cos I wanted to make doubly sure that it is suitable for my 5-7 Ryukins or Bubble-Eyes and they are housed in my old 90 x 45 x 45 tank.
> 
> I just plan to use one unit of Ecco Pro 300 with the original filter media and 1 packet each of Seachem Renew and Purigen.So is this filter set-up enough for my goldfishes?A guy at Y618 commented that I should have used the Pro 3 600 instead of Ecco Pro 300 for the goldfishes.


Well, whether the filter is sufficient for your tank's bio-load will depend on many factors... like the size of the gold fishes, how much and how often you feed them, how frequent and how large your regular water changes are, how often you clean the tank and filter and the quality of bio-media you use etc. 

The more time and effort you spend maintaining the tank, the less work the filter needs to do. Conversely, the better the filter the less time and effort you need to maintain the tank. So its all about time/effort vs cost.  :Smile: 

Theoretically, the Ecco Pro 300 will be sufficient for the setup, if you stick to regular tank maintenance. But if you find that ammonia and nitrates keep spiking up, and you are already doing plenty of cleaning, water changes and controlling feeding... then it'll be an indication that you need to upgrade the bio-media or upgrade to a better filter with more filtration capacity.

Ultimately it all depends on your budget too, if money is not an issue, just get the largest canister filter you can afford, more filtration is always better then less.  :Well done:

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> Well, whether the filter is sufficient for your tank's bio-load will depend on many factors... like the size of the gold fishes, how much and how often you feed them, how frequent and how large your regular water changes are, how often you clean the tank and filter and the quality of bio-media you use etc. 
> 
> The more time and effort you spend maintaining the tank, the less work the filter needs to do. Conversely, the better the filter the less time and effort you need to maintain the tank. So its all about time/effort vs cost. 
> 
> Theoretically, the Ecco Pro 300 will be sufficient for the setup, if you stick to regular tank maintenance. But if you find that ammonia and nitrates keep spiking up, and you are already doing plenty of cleaning, water changes and controlling feeding... then it'll be an indication that you need to upgrade the bio-media or upgrade to a better filter with more filtration capacity.
> 
> Ultimately it all depends on your budget too, if money is not an issue, just get the largest canister filter you can afford, more filtration is always better then less.


Ahh,thanks.....I guess I have to do water changes twice a week for the goldfishes and feed them only once a day if I do eventually use Ecco Pro 3.Anyway the goldfishes belong to the missus and she is only the feeding IC while I am the one taking care of the technical problems plus another 3 feet community tank with a fry sideline in my study to look after.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

I am a bit curious.....How does the lily head attached to the outlet pipe of the Ecco Pro 300 help in my 90 x 45 x 45 goldfish tank?Does it make the water flow out stronger or weaken the water flow instead?

Do I have to buy the original Eheim lily head or is there an aftermarket prototype of it?Or is the wide jet pipe more suitable for the goldfish tank instead?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> I am a bit curious.....How does the lily head attached to the outlet pipe of the Ecco Pro 300 help in my 90 x 45 x 45 goldfish tank?Does it make the water flow out stronger or weaken the water flow instead?
> 
> Do I have to buy the original Eheim lily head or is there an aftermarket prototype of it?Or is the wide jet pipe more suitable for the goldfish tank instead?


Lily pipe outflows are designed to spread out the flow so that it circulates water over a wider area (how well it works depends on the shape and width of the lily pipe mouth). The flow rate will still be the same, just that the overall current will usually be abit gentler.

In addition, it helps to generate the "mini vortex" effect when positioned slightly below the water surface, which helps to reduce surface film build up.

You can get the plastic Eheim lily pipe attachment parts, it should fit the outflow pipe of your Ecco Pro 300. Do note that its mouth design is abit narrower in shape so the outflow spread is abit less, but it has an adjustable connection point so you can adjust its flow direction.

Looks like this:



Photo from Google Images.

So far i have only seen the original Eheim attachment set available at LFS, haven't seen any 3rd party versions yet.

The alternative is to DIY your own (there are some clever examples online using small plastic bottles cut to shape)... or go for the glass or acrylic lily pipes which look much nicer.  :Very Happy:

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> Lily pipe outflows are designed to spread out the flow so that it circulates water over a wider area (how well it works depends on the shape and width of the lily pipe mouth). The flow rate will still be the same, just that the overall current will usually be abit gentler.
> 
> In addition, it helps to generate the "mini vortex" effect when positioned slightly below the water surface, which helps to reduce surface film build up.
> 
> You can get the plastic Eheim lily pipe attachment parts, it should fit the outflow pipe of your Ecco Pro 300. Do note that its mouth design is abit narrower in shape so the outflow spread is abit less, but it has an adjustable connection point so you can adjust its flow direction.
> 
> Looks like this:
> 
> 
> ...


Oh i see it is also usable for Pro 3 models as well.I am thinking of changing to lily head pipes for my Ecco Pro 300 and Pro 3 600.

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> Oh i see it is also usable for Pro 3 models as well.


Yeah, that attachment set comes with adaptors (those green connector parts) which allows it to fit 12/16 or 16/22 pipes.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> Yeah, that attachment set comes with adaptors (those green connector parts) which allows it to fit 12/16 or 16/22 pipes.


So it does weaken the outflow of the Pro 3 600 right?I don't think my black phantom tetras and platies like the current strong outflow of my Pro 3 600.

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> So it does weaken the outflow of the Pro 3 600 right?I don't think my black phantom tetras and platies like the current strong outflow of my Pro 3 600.


Well, it should help to dissipate the flow... though if the overall current is still too much, just have to adjust the tap on the canister filter's outflow port to further reduce the flow rate.

You can also adjust the plastic lily pipe to point up towards the water surface to push the water upwards (you can see the diagram on the packaging), that will help to greatly reduce the current too.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

Which is better at cleaning up the water in the tank?Purigen or Renew?

If I were to just choose between Purigen or Renew to be placed in my Ecco Pro 300 and Pro 3 600,which cleans water better?How many packs of Purigen or Renew should I put into my Eheims?I am confused because when I read up on Purigen and Renew on the Seachem website,both seemed to have the same functions.

Ecco Pro 300 is used for the goldfish tank while Pro 3 600 is used for the tank which houses platies,corys,sailfin mollies,black phantom tetras and livebearer fry.

----------


## Urban Aquaria

Yeah, both have similar features, but differ mainly in which specific effect they are more specialized in.

Purigen is designed to adsorb excess organic compounds, so it helps to reduce the ammonia buildup (suitable for higher bio-load tanks), but its less effective at clearing chemicals and medication.

Renew is designed as a milder version of activated carbon, and like carbon it will adsorb everything, so its more effective at adsorbing chemicals and medications (suitable to use after tank treatments).

I guess it depends on which feature your tank requires, though its also okay to use both at the same time. Just need to allocate sufficient space in the filter so that there is ample circulation of water moving through the packs.

----------


## DreamerX5521

sorry to interrupt..

I'm new to the planted tank world. I bought my 60x30x36cm (normal 2FT) tank but have not buy a canister yet. I've sort listed either to get Ecco Pro 300 or Pro3 350. Somehow, I like Pro3 350 more due to few reasons, but one thing I'm worried about Pro3 350 is that it could be way much overkill and make the tank like a washing machine instead. So, can anyone share if Pro3 350 is good for 2FT planted tank? If not, how about the smaller Pro3 250?
By the way, I plan to use the canister with in-line diffuser/reactor and also lily pipe.

I'm sorry if it mentioned somewhere in this thread, but having to read through 30+ pages is not easy, though I've about 10 pages but not much conclusion yet...  ::smt005:

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> sorry to interrupt..
> 
> I'm new to the planted tank world. I bought my 60x30x36cm (normal 2FT) tank but have not buy a canister yet. I've sort listed either to get Ecco Pro 300 or Pro3 350. Somehow, I like Pro3 350 more due to few reasons, but one thing I'm worried about Pro3 350 is that it could be way much overkill and make the tank like a washing machine instead. So, can anyone share if Pro3 350 is good for 2FT planted tank? If not, how about the smaller Pro3 250?
> By the way, I plan to use the canister with in-line diffuser/reactor and also lily pipe.
> 
> I'm sorry if it mentioned somewhere in this thread, but having to read through 30+ pages is not easy, though I've about 10 pages but not much conclusion yet...


Its okay to use a slightly more powerful canister filter on a tank, if necessary you can easily reduce the overall flow rate by adjusting the inbuilt outflow tap on the Pro3 350 (it like controlling the water flow on a sink tap).

Using an inline diffuser or reactor will contribute to some flow reduction, and certain lily pipe designs will help to spread out the current too. In the future if you upgrade your tank size or add other equipment like a chiller system, there will be extra flow rate to work with, save the extra cost of having to upgrade the filter.

----------


## DreamerX5521

Thanks UA, you always here to give conclusive advice...  :Well done: 

What I'm worried is the initial setup where the chiller is not added with the setup yet and how the canister flow control valve can be controlled, as I read somewhere mentioned that the Pro3 will still flow out water even the valve is adjusted to minimum setting. So, I can't gauge how the flowrate can be adjusted to the desired level. Anyway, I think I'll just going with the Pro3 350 as it can fill up additional 1.5L of media and hopefully it can reduce the frequency for maintenance. This is one of the reason I'm more lean towards Pro3 model.  ::smt003:

----------


## Bengee

Hi guys, recently gotten Eheim Classic 250. Before installing double tap, it was silent. After installing, keep on hearing humming sound from my unit. I've read around and found out that it may be due to air stuck inside and have tried shaking but to no avail. Any ideas of ways to keep it silent?

----------


## Phillipians

What I do it 2 things:
1) Tilt the canister and do a little shake. Not too hard though
2) When that fails, turn the canister on and off a few times - tends to be able to push out the bubbles

When both fails, I leave it alone for a day. It is surprising, but it tends to sort itself out after a while.

----------


## skyymanz

Hi all,

Planning for a new 2-2.5ft tank for gold fish. Any recommendation on the filter to use?

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> Hi all,
> 
> Planning for a new 2-2.5ft tank for gold fish. Any recommendation on the filter to use?


I am using Ecco Pro 300 for my 3 feet tank which houses 10 small Ryukins.Water outflow weakened by half in a month.Goldfishes still ok but think will get a lily pipe from original manufacturer to create aeration.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> Hi how often did u wash ur filter? am also thinking of pro 300 but not sure if it will be overkill.


I wash it once a month.Ecco Pro 300 is not an overkill considering my tank is slightly bigger than yours.

----------


## Dscheng

It is better to overkill than under power. Imagine i am using ehiem 2028 (1050 flowrate) for my 2ft tank. Hehe.

----------


## mkt

Does anyone have any insight on the pro4 model?

Sent from my SM-G928I using Tapatalk

----------


## RenesisTurbo

Is it out in Singapore yet?I thought it is only available in Europe or the US for now.....

----------


## Goalkeeper

> Hi all,
> 
> Planning for a new 2-2.5ft tank for gold fish. Any recommendation on the filter to use?


I would strongly recommend sump type filtration system for goldfish. I tried canister before but not as good. Found filtration effect to be less idea and can't handle bio load plus need for more regular cleaning because goldfish eat and poo a lot.

----------


## Swifty

Hi All,

I have a 4 yr old RES, kept it since it was tiny. Now that it has grown much bigger and stronger, it started chewing on my pipe that connects my pump to the overhead filter. I think it's brand is dophin? Bought it for about $40+. The pipe is made of plastic bah. This becomes a big problem as I have to constantly put it back so that water will flow through the filter. However, the pipe is starting to lose its shape and probably cant be used soon.

So I'm planning to get a new filter that will not allow my terrapin to chew and possibly remove the pipe, which possibly leads down to an external filter like eheim. As I was in the army when I had my RES, I had a little allowance to spend on my RES. Now that I'm in university, I'm a little low on cash. So I'm looking for something that is of the best value but still being able to handle my terrapin high bio-load. Hehe. Couldn't really find the prices of most of the filters online for the LFS, but roughly I know its about $200 for most brands, trying to find some that are cheaper(if there is).

My tank is about 39 gallons / 148 Litres. It's a 3 feet tank. Many thanks in advance for the advise!

----------


## happydanio123

Classic will be my favourite. Why spend so much on Eheim Pro unless you need the really pro features?

----------


## RenesisTurbo

Saw the new Professionel 4 600 at Seaview yesterday and selling at $440.Noticed that it looks the same as my Pro 3 600 except for a Xtender function.

Anyone brought and tried it out already?

----------


## Frozenicex

The pricing for the professional 3 and the pro 4 should be the same as per C328. Anyone getting pro3, might as well try the new pro 4 with nicer color accessories.

----------


## TheKiwi

Hey folks. Sorry if this question has been answered to death. Appreciate any inputs though. 

I have a standard 2ft tank, running a Eheim aquaball 2208 and aquaclear 20. Looking to replace the aquaball since it takes up so much space and just has non-ideal filter media capacity. 

I'm looking for a replacement canister filter. Not looking to cheap out, but also really just want something reliable and functional. I can do without fancy functions like self-priming. Anyone has recommendation?

At this point, I'm looking at a classic 250. C328 is selling them for $140 I believe, and might just grab that since I live just 10 mins away. That's around where I'm comfortable with spending. However if anyone has thoughts on what might be a better value for money, or just functionally more suitable, I would appreciate it. Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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## Urban Aquaria

If you are not in a rush, its worth considering 2nd hand eheim canister filter units... good condition units usually pop up at much cheaper prices on the various forum marketplaces and online trading sites (ie. carousell, gumtree etc). 

You'll just have to check the condition of the filter and its parts to make sure its in working condition. Eheim filters have long lifespans and their parts are easy to buy and replace, hence 2nd hand deals are worth getting. Quite often you can get used ones at half to even 1/3 of the new price.

As for model choice, the classic 250 (2213) is good for a 2ft tank, but if you have the opportunity to get a classic 350 (2215), it'll be even better due to the higher flow rate and much larger media volume. Do remember to also get a pair of double taps for those classic models to enable easier maintenance and adjustment of flow rate. 

Also do consider the Pro series models too. In some cases, the total cost of a classic model with separately purchased double taps could sometimes end up costing close to (or even the same) as a Pro series model, which already come with inbuilt taps and more additional features. So do check and compare before making your decision.

----------


## TheKiwi

> If you are not in a rush, its worth considering 2nd hand eheim canister filter units... good condition units usually pop up at much cheaper prices on the various forum marketplaces and online trading sites (ie. carousell, gumtree etc). 
> 
> You'll just have to check the condition of the filter and its parts to make sure its in working condition. Eheim filters have long lifespans and their parts are easy to buy and replace, hence 2nd hand deals are worth getting. Quite often you can get used ones at half to even 1/3 of the new price.
> 
> As for model choice, the classic 250 (2213) is good for a 2ft tank, but if you have the opportunity to get a classic 350 (2215), it'll be even better due to the higher flow rate and much larger media volume. Do remember to also get a pair of double taps for those classic models to enable easier maintenance and adjustment of flow rate. 
> 
> Also do consider the Pro series models too. In some cases, the total cost of a classic model with separately purchased double taps could sometimes end up costing close to (or even the same) as a Pro series model, which already come with inbuilt taps and more additional features. So do check and compare before making your decision.


Thanks for the reply! Now that you've mentioned it, I do think a classic 350 might be a better option after all. I'll check out the prices at c328 this weekend. I'm assuming when you talk about the Pro series, you're referring to the pro 3?

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## Dscheng

7662C4D5-0211-4530-8E63-26AEBBBBBB6F_zps2sq7kiv5.jpg

I am using overkill canister for my 2 X 2ft (64L & 94L). Haha, agree with UA, ehiem canister spare parts can be easily found.

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## TheKiwi

> 7662C4D5-0211-4530-8E63-26AEBBBBBB6F_zps2sq7kiv5.jpg
> 
> I am using overkill canister for my 2 X 2ft (64L & 94L). Haha, agree with UA, ehiem canister spare parts can be easily found.


Haha I saw that. Too rich for my blood ah. 

I was considering getting the classic 350, I think can get for $170~ at c328. But after factoring in the 2x double taps & filter media, the price is similar to a Ecco Pro 300 that comes with built in taps and filter media. 

Would jump on the Ecco pro 300, except
- classic 350's filter media volume is 4L vs 3.1L on the Ecco pro. That's a huge 25% diff eh?

The rest of the pro series way out of my budget Liao. So I'm only considering those two

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## Dscheng

Mine pro 2 2028 is second hand. When I take over the unit, it is bad condition and leaking water. I change a few parts and it is working very well. Try to source 2nd hand, ehiem spare parts is very easy to find.

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## Emkay

> Hey folks. Sorry if this question has been answered to death. Appreciate any inputs though. 
> 
> I have a standard 2ft tank, running a Eheim aquaball 2208 and aquaclear 20. Looking to replace the aquaball since it takes up so much space and just has non-ideal filter media capacity. 
> 
> I'm looking for a replacement canister filter. Not looking to cheap out, but also really just want something reliable and functional. I can do without fancy functions like self-priming. Anyone has recommendation?
> 
> At this point, I'm looking at a classic 250. C328 is selling them for $140 I believe, and might just grab that since I live just 10 mins away. That's around where I'm comfortable with spending. However if anyone has thoughts on what might be a better value for money, or just functionally more suitable, I would appreciate it. Thanks!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I just got from them last week. List price at 128

Sent from my GEM-703L

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## TheKiwi

> I just got from them last week. List price at 128
> 
> Sent from my GEM-703L


Haha the aunty quoted me 115. But now @Urban Aquaria has got me hooked on the classic 350 hehe

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## Urban Aquaria

Yeah, usually when you get the larger Classic series models, they start to get quite close in price to some of the Pro series models, like the Ecco Pro 300 (2236) or even the Professional 250 (2224).

For those 3 models, there are differences in features and design, so it just depends on what you are looking for based on around the similar total cost:

Classic 350 (2215) = 620 l/ph, 4L media volume, 15W power consumption, no double taps, no easy priming (https://www.eheim.com/en_GB/products...rs/classic-350)
Ecco Pro 300 (2236) = 750 l/ph, 3.1L media volume, 8W power consumption, has inbuilt taps, has easy priming (https://www.eheim.com/en_GB/products...s/ecco-pro-300)
Professional 250 (2224) = 700 l/ph, 3L media volume, 8W power consumption, has inbuilt taps, no easy priming (https://www.eheim.com/en_GB/products...-experience250)

If you are looking at 2nd hand units... sometimes you might even find the higher end Pro 3 or even Pro 4 models at similar prices to the Classic or Pro models, so there is some cost benefits to check good deals on pre-owned units. But if you don't want the risk or hassle of restoring older units and just want something that is guaranteed to work from the get-go, then shop for best deals on the new models.

----------


## TheKiwi

> Yeah, usually when you get the larger Classic series models, they start to get quite close in price to some of the Pro series models, like the Ecco Pro 300 (2236) or even the Professional 250 (2224).
> 
> For those 3 models, there are differences in features and design, so it just depends on what you are looking for based on around the similar total cost:
> 
> Classic 350 (2215) = 620 l/ph, 4L media volume, 15W power consumption, no double taps, no easy priming (https://www.eheim.com/en_GB/products...rs/classic-350)
> Ecco Pro 300 (2236) = 750 l/ph, 3.1L media volume, 8W power consumption, has inbuilt taps, has easy priming (https://www.eheim.com/en_GB/products...s/ecco-pro-300)
> Professional 250 (2224) = 700 l/ph, 3L media volume, 8W power consumption, has inbuilt taps, no easy priming (https://www.eheim.com/en_GB/products...-experience250)
> 
> If you are looking at 2nd hand units... sometimes you might even find the higher end Pro 3 or even Pro 4 models at similar prices to the Classic or Pro models, so there is some cost benefits to check good deals on pre-owned units. But if you don't want the risk or hassle of restoring older units and just want something that is guaranteed to work from the get-go, then shop for best deals on the new models.


What are the good places to look for used filters in Singapore? I've recently moved back from the states, and am very unfamiliar with the local sites. Might be worth a shot

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## Urban Aquaria

> What are the good places to look for used filters in Singapore? I've recently moved back from the states, and am very unfamiliar with the local sites. Might be worth a shot


For used filters and other 2nd hand aquarium equipment, just check at the forum marketplace section... or check on websites like Gumtree.com.sg, or on apps like Carousell.

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## TheKiwi

> For used filters and other 2nd hand aquarium equipment, just check at the forum marketplace section... or check on websites like Gumtree.com.sg, or on apps like Carousell.


Hey UA, thanks to your advice, I got myself a Eheim Ecco pro 300 today 

Price from c328:
Classic 250 aka 2213: 124
Classic 350 aka 2215: 170
Ecco pro 300: 234

After factoring in the price of all the filter media I had to buy for the 350 + the 2 double taps, it actually ended up being more expensive than the Ecco pro! 

I've read a lot of reviews about the handle breaking, so hopefully I'll remember to be careful, and not be too rough with it. Happy with the purchase though!

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> Hey UA, thanks to your advice, I got myself a Eheim Ecco pro 300 today 
> 
> Price from c328:
> Classic 250 aka 2213: 124
> Classic 350 aka 2215: 170
> Ecco pro 300: 234
> 
> After factoring in the price of all the filter media I had to buy for the 350 + the 2 double taps, it actually ended up being more expensive than the Ecco pro! 
> 
> I've read a lot of reviews about the handle breaking, so hopefully I'll remember to be careful, and not be too rough with it. Happy with the purchase though!


I am using the same model for my 183 liter tank housing 11 juvenile Ryukins.

Just remember to raise the inlet pipe above the water level for 5-8 seconds to break the water momentum and the powerhead should open easily when doing monthly servicing.The handle will open smoothly as well.Also remember to unscrew the double taps,pull the 2 pipes off from the powerhead and to clean it up as well by using a flexible brush to run through them.Use a cheap toothbrush eg the Darlie cheap toothbrush which costs just $1.20 to scrub the algae or dirt off the impeller housing.

Anyone knows where to buy the long brush or DIY solutions to clean the inlet and outlet pipes of Ecco 300 and Pro 3 600 during monthly servicing?I have the flexible brush for cleaning the pipes but it only reaches to a certain limit.

How do you make sure that there is no more brown scum or algae shooting out from the outlet pipe when you fire up the Pro 3 600 or Ecco Pro 300 after servicing?

Is the Pro 3 600 the biggest filter in the Eheim range?Any other bigger filter than Pro 3 600?

----------


## TheKiwi

> I am using the same model for my 183 liter tank housing 11 juvenile Ryukins.
> 
> Just remember to raise the inlet pipe above the water level for 5-8 seconds to break the water momentum and the powerhead should open easily when doing monthly servicing.The handle will open smoothly as well.Also remember to unscrew the double taps,pull the 2 pipes off from the powerhead and to clean it up as well by using a flexible brush to run through them.
> 
> Anyone knows where to buy the long brush or DIY solutions to clean the inlet and outlet pipes of Ecco 300 and Pro 3 600 during monthly servicing?I have the flexible brush for cleaning the pipes but it only reaches to a certain limit.
> 
> Is the Pro 3 600 the biggest filter in the Eheim range?Any other bigger filter than Pro 3 600?


Haha I totally bought into the whole over filtration school of thought. Mine's only a standard 2ft tank, so approx 80L  fishes seem to be doing well with the increased flow rate though; I only had to turn it down just slightly. 

When should I raise the inlet? Before I close off the inlet and outlet taps?

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## RenesisTurbo

Should raise it above the water level for 5-8 seconds before you shut off the taps.

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## TheKiwi

> Should raise it above the water level for 5-8 seconds before you shut off the taps.


Btw. I've seen some people suggest the following: link up multiple cable ties in a row, it should be stiff enough for you to push the entire length of it from one end to the other. Then on one end, tie a small piece of sponge/floss. Grab the other end and pull through

----------


## RenesisTurbo

Your suggestion came too late as I did my monthly servicing yesterday and on last Saturday for my Pro 3 600 and Ecco Pro 300......Any harder material to link up in a chain in a bid to make the brush clean up the pipes?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> Anyone knows where to buy the long brush or DIY solutions to clean the inlet and outlet pipes of Ecco 300 and Pro 3 600 during monthly servicing?I have the flexible brush for cleaning the pipes but it only reaches to a certain limit.
> 
> How do you make sure that there is no more brown scum or algae shooting out from the outlet pipe when you fire up the Pro 3 600 or Ecco Pro 300 after servicing?


Just use a long pipe brush designed for cleaning lily pipes... like the NAG Flexible Pipe Brush, looks like this:



Photo from Google Images.

There are also many other brands like ANS, Marina etc which offer similar flexible pipe brushes too. The ANS version available at quite a few LFS is almost double the length of the NAG version.

If your hoses are too long, when you push the pipe brush through the hoses, just do it via one end then switch to the other end, in that way the brush will cover the entire length of the hose from both sides. Thats will ensure that all of the dirt and debris in the hoses and pipes are thoroughly cleaned so you will not see any residue going back into the tank.





> Is the Pro 3 600 the biggest filter in the Eheim range?Any other bigger filter than Pro 3 600?


In terms of even larger sizes, there is also the Eheim Pro 3 1200XL and Eheim Classic 1500XL, those are the "big guns".  :Grin:

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## RenesisTurbo

I do have this kind of brush but the length is a bit too short to go through the whole pipe.Does attaching a chain of cable ties do the trick?

----------


## TheKiwi

> Your suggestion came too late as I did my monthly servicing yesterday and on last Saturday for my Pro 3 600 and Ecco Pro 300......Any harder material to link up in a chain in a bid to make the brush clean up the pipes?


Hm. Not sure why you'll need a harder material. Note that this method is for you to pull on one end, not push. You'll be pulling on the end without the sponge. The trick is to have it long enough to span the entire pipe.

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## RenesisTurbo

> Hm. Not sure why you'll need a harder material. Note that this method is for you to pull on one end, not push. You'll be pulling on the end without the sponge. The trick is to have it long enough to span the entire pipe.


Ok,I will give it a try then.

How do you make sure that there is no more brown scum or algae shooting out from the outlet pipe when you fire up the Pro 3 600 or Ecco Pro 300 after servicing?

Is the Pro 3 600 the biggest filter in the Eheim range?Any other bigger filter than Pro 3 600?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> I do have this kind of brush but the length is a bit too short to go through the whole pipe.Does attaching a chain of cable ties do the trick?


Yeah, thats why i mentioned to scrub from both ends... first time via one end of the hose, a second time via the other end of the hose. Even if the brush can only ready 3/4 of the hose, by pushing the brush in via both ends, it will be able to access all areas of the entire hose.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> Yeah, thats why i mentioned to scrub from both ends... first time via one end of the hose, a second time via the other end of the hose. Even if the brush can only ready 3/4 of the hose, by pushing the brush in via both ends, it will be able to access all areas of the entire hose.


A lot of people have given me different opinions on how to place the filter media for my Ecco Pro 3 and Pro 3 600.

For Ecco Pro 300(Top to bottom)

1.Prefilter with blue sponge
2.White sponge with the square media
3.Mini balls with Purigen packet
4.Small black rolls

For Pro 3 600(Top to bottom)

1.Prefilter with blue sponge
2.White sponge with the square media
3.Mini balls with Purigen packet
4.Small black rolls
5.Small black rolls

Did I arrange my filter media correctly?

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## Urban Aquaria

The purigen pack should ideally be placed above the white filter wool layer, so that only debris free water passes though it. Purigen only adsorbs dissolved organic compounds, not meant to trap solid debris (that will clog it up quickly and reduce its efficiency).

The rest of the filtration media positions are correct.

For my own eheim filter setups, i tossed out the mechpro media (aka black plastic rolls) since they are mainly mechanical media, and just filled the space with more higher quality bio-media instead (which also do a similar job + offer better bio-filtration). Thats an alternative option that you could try out too.

----------


## TheKiwi

> The purigen pack should ideally be placed above the white filter wool layer, so that only debris free water passes though it. Purigen only adsorbs dissolved organic compounds, not meant to trap solid debris (that will clog it up quickly and reduce its efficiency).
> 
> The rest of the filtration media positions are correct.
> 
> For my own eheim filter setups, i tossed out the mechpro media (aka black plastic rolls) since they are mainly mechanical media, and just filled the space with more higher quality bio-media (which also do a similar job + offer better bio-filtration). Thats an alternative option that you could try out too.


Eh interesting. I have it differently, following the diagram provided by Eheim for my Ecco pro 300. From top to bottom:

1) coarse blue pre-filter

2a) (my own) Purigen
2b) fine white floss pad
2c) mixture of substrate pro (round balls) and seachem matrix from my old filter

3) Eheim bioMECH (flat squarish things)

4) Eheim mech Pro (black cylinders) 


Seems like you guys swap 2c and 3?

I've always been cautious about not having enough mechanical filtration before my biological filtration. I've had experiences with my sintered glass and ceramic media getting clogged by wastes. 

Then again, I have a tiny tank, so I don't need all that much biological filter media I think.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> The purigen pack should ideally be placed above the white filter wool layer, so that only debris free water passes though it. Purigen only adsorbs dissolved organic compounds, not meant to trap solid debris (that will clog it up quickly and reduce its efficiency).
> 
> The rest of the filtration media positions are correct.
> 
> For my own eheim filter setups, i tossed out the mechpro media (aka black plastic rolls) since they are mainly mechanical media, and just filled the space with more higher quality bio-media instead (which also do a similar job + offer better bio-filtration). Thats an alternative option that you could try out too.


So what Eheim media or aftermarket filter media is suitable to be put in the last 2 trays of my Pro 3 600 and last tray of the Ecco Pro 300 based on the livestock I have?Can you advise me on this?

So you mean the Purigen pack should be put on top of the white filter wool and just below the grille cover which is located below the prefilter?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> So what Eheim media or aftermarket filter media is suitable to be put in the last 2 trays of my Pro 3 600 and last tray of the Ecco Pro 300 based on the livestock I have?Can you advise me on this?


You can use any brand of bio-media, just depends on which type you prefer and match your budget.

Personally i have been using Seachem Matrix as the main bio-media in all my canister filters for the past 8+ years. So far they have consistently maintained stable cycles across dozens of tank setups.




> So you mean the Purigen pack should be put on top of the white filter wool and just below the grille cover which is located below the prefilter?


Yes, put the Purigen pack as the final layer above the white filter wool and just below the top grille cover, that will ensure that debris free water flows through the pack.

Also make sure to leave ample space for the pack to sit loosely inside the media basket, it should not be jammed or squashed tightly. This is so that the water can flow freely though all the granules in the pack. The more water that comes in contact with all the individual granules, the more efficient the adsorption effect. 

If positioned properly, during filter maintenance, you should see the entire pack turn uniformly brown over time (not just at the edges or scattered parts).

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> You can use any brand of bio-media, just depends on which type you prefer and match your budget.
> 
> Personally i have been using Seachem Matrix as the main bio-media in all my canister filters for the past 8+ years. So far they have consistently maintained stable cycles across dozens of tank setups.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, put the Purigen pack as the final layer above the white filter wool and just below the top grille cover, that will ensure that debris free water flows through the pack.
> 
> Also make sure to leave ample space for the pack to sit loosely inside the media basket, it should not be jammed or squashed tightly. This is so that the water can flow freely though all the granules in the pack. The more water that comes in contact with all the individual granules, the more efficient the adsorption effect. 
> ...


So for the last 2 bottom trays(Pro 3 600) and last bottom tray(Ecco Pro 300),I can fill it all up with Seachem Matrix with the Eheim mini brown balls on the 2nd tray and Eheim square pieces with Purigen pack on the 1st tray?

For the Ecco Pro 300,I also can put the Purigen pack on top of the white filter wool and just above the Eheim square pieces on top tray as well?

----------


## jackychun

I am using Eheim BioMech, Eheim SubstratPro and Seachem Matrix for my Eheim Ecco Pro 300. 



I plan to put in a bag of Seachem Purigen after the coming filter cleaning. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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## RenesisTurbo

> I am using Eheim BioMech, Eheim SubstratPro and Seachem Matrix for my Eheim Ecco Pro 300. 
> 
> 
> 
> I plan to put in a bag of Seachem Purigen after the coming filter cleaning. 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


How much amount of Matrix should I buy to put into the Ecco Pro 300 and Pro 3 600?How much is roughly the cost?

My tanks hold 205 liters and 185 liters of water respectively.

----------


## TheKiwi

Btw, c328 sells the 100ml Purigen in ready to use mesh bags for $14  :Smile:  you can lay 2 pads side by side in the top tray on top of the floss layer. I personally use just one. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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## jackychun

> How much amount of Matrix should I buy to put into the Ecco Pro 300 and Pro 3 600?How much is roughly the cost?
> 
> My tanks hold 205 liters and 185 liters of water respectively.


One tray can hold up to around 0.7-0.8L of Seachem Matrix. So you can just multiply according to the number of trays that you are going to use them.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> One tray can hold up to around 0.7-0.8L of Seachem Matrix. So you can just multiply according to the number of trays that you are going to use them.


2 trays for Pro 3 600 and 1 tray for Ecco Pro 300.How much is roughly the cost?

----------


## jackychun

1L about 20 bucks. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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## RenesisTurbo

> 1L about 20 bucks. 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks.....I need 3 liters of it so will look around Seaview later on.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

Found a good deal for Seachem Matrix at C328.

1 liter costs 17 bucks

4 liters costs 58 bucks

When I put the Matrix into the last few trays of my Ecco Pro 300 and Pro 3 600,is it really necessary to add Stability on the trays containing the Matrix?

Is 4 liters of Matrix enough for both my filters?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

Using bottled bacteria solutions like Seachem Stability is optional... since natural beneficial bacterial will still eventually colonize the bio-media over time. I guess if you plan to add livestock earlier, then dosing Stability could help to sustain a temporary cycle until the actual cycle is established.

4 liters of bio-media should be sufficient to fill the spare spaces in both filters. If not enough just get more, if too much just keep the extra amount for future use.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> Using bottled bacteria solutions like Seachem Stability is optional... since natural beneficial bacterial will still eventually colonize the bio-media over time. I guess if you plan to add livestock earlier, then dosing Stability could help to sustain a temporary cycle until the actual cycle is established.
> 
> 4 liters of bio-media should be sufficient to fill the spare spaces in both filters. If not enough just get more, if too much just keep the extra amount for future use.


So is Stability the same as the Super Beneficial Bacteria 8000 from Ocean Free?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> So is Stability the same as the Super Beneficial Bacteria 8000 from Ocean Free?


Well, the bacteria contents would usually be different between brands (they all utilize their own proprietary bacteria strains)... but their intended effects are usually similar, mainly to introduce fast acting types of bacteria to quickly handle bio-loads. The trade-off is those types of bacteria used tend to have short lifespans, so you have to replenish/dose them regularly.

Otherwise, even without dosing those bottle solutions, the tank will still naturally cycle on its own too. Just have to wait.  :Smile:

----------


## RenesisTurbo

Looked all evening for the 4 liter Matrix at C328 but could not find any.

Does Seaview sell Matrix cheaper than C328?

Or is there a Eheim filter media which is equivalent to the Matrix?Need something to replace the black rolls in both my Eheim filters.

----------


## jackychun

> Looked all evening for the 4 liter Matrix at C328 but could not find any.
> 
> Does Seaview sell Matrix cheaper than C328?
> 
> Or is there a Eheim filter media which is equivalent to the Matrix?Need something to replace the black rolls in both my Eheim filters.


I used only one tray of Seachem Matrix in my Ecco 300 filter and the other 2 are Eheim SubstratPro and Eheim BioMech. So far that is still very good for my 2ft tank. I guess Seachem Matrix would have more porous and wider area for beneficial bacteria to stay. However, Eheim SubstratPro is good enough, too.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

So I can toss out the black rolls in my 2 filters and replace them with Substrat Pro too?

Matrix is sure hard to find.Cant get them in Y618 and now C328 too.

----------


## jackychun

Yes, of course you can.  :Smile: 

BTW, I saw Nature Aquarium at Thomson Road sells Seachem Matrix in small bottles. You can check with them if they have bigger one. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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## RenesisTurbo

> Yes, of course you can. 
> 
> BTW, I saw Nature Aquarium at Thomson Road sells Seachem Matrix in small bottles. You can check with them if they have bigger one. 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ok,I will go down to Seaview to check tomorrow for the prices.

I am interested to use Matrix cos Seachem claimed that Matrix is much more superior to SubstratPro.

I don't mind using either both as long as it promotes or even enhances the water quality of my tanks.

----------


## jackychun

You can go to Petmart at Serangoon North to check too. They have almost everything there.  Cheers!

https://www.google.com.sg/search?q=p...#istate=kp:xpd


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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## RenesisTurbo

> You can go to Petmart at Serangoon North to check too. They have almost everything there.  Cheers!
> 
> https://www.google.com.sg/search?q=p...#istate=kp:xpd
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks Jacky.....I got my 4 liter of Matrix at Seaview today for 60 bucks after discount.

My wife is thinking of asking me to consider setting a marine or a South American style of tank with a few discus as the main stars should my 11 Ryukins uplorry someday.Will the Ecco Pro 300 be enough to be the life support system of the tank and it's residents?

----------


## jackychun

> Thanks Jacky.....I got my 4 liter of Matrix at Seaview today for 60 bucks after discount.
> 
> My wife is thinking of asking me to consider setting a marine or a South American style of tank with a few discus as the main stars should my 11 Ryukins uplorry someday.Will the Ecco Pro 300 be enough to be the life support system of the tank and it's residents?


I think it depends on the size of your tank and size & number of your fishes. You can go to http://aqadvisor.com/ to check the stock for reference.  :Smile:

----------


## BFG

Guys, you are seriously getting out of topic.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

If I were to switch to another Eheim filter for my gang of 11 Ryukins,which model is suitable for them?

----------


## tetrakid

In principle, one should get the biggest filter one can afford, with the main consideration being the amount of turbulence a particular size of tank can comfortably tolerate with a particular filter model under consideration. A bigger filter with a huge volume media capacity acts like a 'bigger engine' with sufficient 'reserve horsepower' to handle increased loads. in this regard, however, flow rate does not equate with filtering power. It is media capacity that matters. A huge capacity filter but with a less powerful motor is fine, since water toxicity does not increase drastically in a short time but gradually over days or weeks.

PS> Nothing beats a sump installation.

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> If I were to switch to another Eheim filter for my gang of 11 Ryukins,which model is suitable for them?


Maybe can consider a filter model with larger sponge and media capacity, helps trap more waste and process it more effectively, doesn't get clogged up as quickly too. Like perhaps a Classic 2217 (6L filter media volume, double that of the Ecco Pro 300). If the flow is too much, just install a tap to reduce the flow, while still being able to utilize the higher filter media volume.

Ultimately it all still depends on how much food you feed and how much waste your ryukins produce, versus the filter efficiency and how extensively you do maintenance and water changes. You will know if the filtration and/or maintenance schedule is not enough when the water becomes foul easily or the livestock get ill and die over a period of time... those are signs to improve the tank conditions.

----------


## toolkit

Hi, this is the how the Classic 250 looked when I did not change/clean the coarse foam filter pad and
filter pad for about 1 year and 4 months.  :Razz: 

20160410_122034.jpg

My tank is 2 feet, quite satisfied with its performance, quiet and keeps the water
clean. Though I wished I bought the next bigger model as I feel the flow rate is not
strong any more due to growth of my plants over the months.

----------


## tetrakid

> Hi, this is the how the Classic 250 looked when I did not change/clean the coarse foam filter pad and
> filter pad for about 1 year and 4 months. 
> 
> 20160410_122034.jpg
> 
> My tank is 2 feet, quite satisfied with its performance, quiet and keeps the water
> clean. Though I wished I bought the next bigger model as I feel the flow rate is not
> strong any more due to growth of my plants over the months.


I wouldn't have cleaned it too, as I figure the accumulated dirt itself functions as an effective media for bacteria. Thus, cleaning off the dirt will mean a reduction in media capacity overall. 

Like I said before, reduced flow rate is not a problem if the filter's bio-media capacity is adequate for the tank. On the other hand, a high flow rate or throughput is pointless if the media is not up to it.

----------


## BFG

For really long operation, having a pre filter is ideal in that the main canister filter which houses the filter media is kept undisturbed where as the pre filter canister is regularly maintained. The most longest operation I've got was 2 years and the main canister filter was caked with biological stuff or mulm. This was a 2ft cube planted tank with small fishes and shrimp. The pre filter canister was serviced when I noticed the flow rate decreased. Main canister filter was 2222 and the pre filter was 2211. Both was 2nd hand acquired, I decided to serviced the 2222 as it started leaking. If I was not wrong, the impeller for the 2222 was swapped for the 2224 ones I think.

Unfortunately this set up is long gone, I still have the 2211 but the 2222 was sold to a planted tank enthusiast who uses 4 x 2222 in his 3ft tank. 2 pair setup connected in series. He had tried connecting 4 x 2222 in series but found that the water felt funny to the touch, his observance, not mine. He then change his canister filter connection to pairs instead of all 4 in series.

My ideal setup is to use the 2217 + 2215. For small tank, just swap the 2217 impeller for a lower classic canister filter impeller like the 2215 or 2213.

----------


## BFG

Another tip is to have the classic canister filter as a spare and use it as an alternative to a vacuum cleaner. Stuff it with those cheap filter wool and attach it to a longer inlet and outlet hose, with quick release valve and the installation set for easy priming and you are set to go! The quick release valve will help to disconnect the hose separately while the installation set can be dismantled into smaller separate component for easy storage. 

For easy priming, take the inlet side of the installation set attached to a hose and a quick release valve at the end of the hose, close the valve and fill it with water. Connect this to the canister filter, place the inlet end into the tank water, below the water line and attached the valve to the canister filter. Connect the outlet hose to the canister filter, best to have another quick release valve here too and switch the tap to open position. Once all is connected, then you switch the quick release valve on the inlet side to the open position and let gravity do its job.

You can take your time to suck away detritus from your tank with this setup. You can actually use a water change period to accomplish this but sometimes, you removed too much water before you removed all the detritus from the tank. I did this for my marine tank. My thought is that, on some occasion, when the water parameter is just right, a water change might alter the water parameter, making you to have to adjust it again. 

With this setup, you can directly access the dead spot area of your tank to manually remove detritus, uneaten fish food and fish waste. After you finish with the process, throw away the clogged cheap filter wool, rinse the canister filter interior and keep it for storage until another cleaning period is called for. Or if you have friends or relative who share the same hobby, you can loan your set to help them. You can store your entire vacuum cleaner canister filter set in a small container or even an old travel luggage case with wheel for ease of convenience. Keep this in your store room or under the bed, score points with your partner or parents!

In the event if there are dispute, just take a photo of your set before loaning it out. This will clear any doubt over missing items or damage. Helps to maintain your relationship with friends or families. Good to feel needed.


Hope this helps!

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## tetrakid

Great posts from bro Mo. Bagus! Like!  :Well done:  :Angel:

----------


## RenesisTurbo

My friend is starting a tank (90cm x 45cm x45cm) with only just 8 Ryukins in the tank.

He is thinking of using the Eheim Biopower 240 internal filter.Is this suitable for the goldfishes?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> My friend is starting a tank (90cm x 45cm x45cm) with only just 8 Ryukins in the tank.
> 
> He is thinking of using the Eheim Biopower 240 internal filter.Is this suitable for the goldfishes?


Can use... just have to do more manual waste removal, tank/filter cleaning and more frequent water changes to compensate for it.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

I just went with him to C328.Seems like the model is not available...Is it a new product?

What other fish shops in SG that carry the Eheim filters besides the usual places?Thanks in advance.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

What other Eheim internal filters can he use for the goldfishes?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

I guess any other eheim model can work... how effective it is depends on how much flow and media it can utilize. Generally, less flow and less media = less effective, and vice versa.

There are also other brands of internal filters (both euro and china brands) that could do a similar job too, have to check around.

Maybe you can check at the larger LFS like Seaview, they usually have alot more filtration equipment in ready stock (compared to the smaller LFS like C32 :Cool: . You'll probably have a much higher chance to get a suitable filter from there.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

Hi...May I know how to solve the airlock problem in my Ecco Pro 300?

My outflow seems to be just trickling out water.Brought to QH and they claimed to be just an airlock problem.Water in the tank is still quite clean and clear though.

First tray contains white wool and squarish media.
Second tray contains mini balls and Purigen pack.
Third tray contains only matrix pieces.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

I think I had enough of the Ecco Pro 300 and it's problems after 3 weeks of continuous tinkering.Thinking of getting Classic 2215 from C328 later.

Is Classic 2215 suitable for my Ryukin tank?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> Hi...May I know how to solve the airlock problem in my Ecco Pro 300?
> 
> My outflow seems to be just trickling out water.Brought to QH and they claimed to be just an airlock problem. Water in the tank is still quite clean and clear though.
> 
> First tray contains white wool and squarish media.
> Second tray contains mini balls and Purigen pack.
> Third tray contains only matrix pieces.


Has it always been like that? Or did it happen only recently?

Your tray media placement could be better, ideally the bottom and middle tray should hold the larger media (ie. Seachem matrix and other Eheim bio-media)... while the top tray should have the white filter wool and purigen pack.

You wouldn't want the fine white filter wool and purigen pack in the middle or bottom tray as those will just clog up very fast with larger debris and slow down the flow. 

That could be one of the reasons why your filter is experiencing an imbalance in flow ratio, too little water getting through and air pocket forming in the impeller area, rendering it ineffective.

Try re-adjusting the media placement and replacing the fine white filter wool (it might be too clogged up), see if that helps to create better flow. Also make sure the canister is primed properly and full of water before switching on the filter. Also pump the priming handle a few more times beforehand to expel trapped air. Shake the filter when its running to release remaining trapped air too.

If you do all that and it still doesn't work, then have to check the impeller and seals. Sometimes the impeller is loose or the seals are not tight and leak in air, so it affects the filter operation. Have to replace those parts if got issues.




> I think I had enough of the Ecco Pro 300 and it's problems after 3 weeks of continuous tinkering.Thinking of getting Classic 2215 from C328 later.
> 
> Is Classic 2215 suitable for my Ryukin tank?


Eheim 2215 will be suitable for your tank too... ultimately it all still depends on your tank's bio-load and how well you maintain and clean the tank and filter regularly.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> Has it always been like that? Or did it happen only recently?
> 
> Your tray media placement could be better, ideally the bottom and middle tray should hold the larger media (ie. Seachem matrix and other Eheim bio-media)... while the top tray should have the white filter wool and purigen pack.
> 
> You wouldn't want the fine white filter wool and purigen pack in the middle or bottom tray as those will just clog up very fast with larger debris and slow down the flow. 
> 
> That could be one of the reasons why your filter is experiencing an imbalance in flow ratio, too little water getting through and air pocket forming in the impeller area, rendering it ineffective.
> 
> Try re-adjusting the media placement and replacing the fine white filter wool (it might be too clogged up), see if that helps to create better flow. Also make sure the canister is primed properly and full of water before switching on the filter. Also pump the priming handle a few more times beforehand to expel trapped air. Shake the filter when its running to release remaining trapped air too.
> ...


Hi,UA.....Thanks for the help since I subscribed to the Eheim thread.

I dare say the slow water flow happened 3 months after I used the filter.Actually I was thinking to replace the Ecco with 2215 tonight but after reading your suggestions,I decided to give the Ecco one more shot at redeeming itself.

Since I started to set up my first aquarium 10 years ago,I used Pickup 160,2213 and later Ecco Pro and Pro 3.The one that gave me the most headaches is the Ecco.How are the reviews from users like on Ecco Pro besides the usual complaints about the priming handle?

So my order of placing the filter media should be

Top tray-Mini balls with white wool and Purigen.
2nd tray-Ceramic squares
Bottom tray-Matrix.

Is it correct?

Should I close the shut off taps before I prime the filter?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> Since I started to set up my first aquarium 10 years ago,I used Pickup 160,2213 and later Ecco Pro and Pro 3.The one that gave me the most headaches is the Ecco.How are the reviews from users like on Ecco Pro besides the usual complaints about the priming handle?


Well, so far i've been using Ecco Pro filters for my various tanks for many years and haven't encountered any issues. 

As long as they are maintained regularly, they will work well for a very long time. I have an old generation 2nd hand ecco unit (more than 10 yrs old) still working efficiently on one of my tanks.

I've helped some people troubleshoot problems with their filters and 95% of the time its usually due to user error. Most of it can be solved by simply checking the usage procedures again and refering to the instruction manual if unsure.





> So my order of placing the filter media should be
> 
> Top tray-Mini balls with white wool and Purigen.
> 2nd tray-Ceramic squares
> Bottom tray-Matrix.
> 
> Is it correct?


That bio-media arrangement is okay, the objective is basically to filter the water through gradually decreasing media gap size... flow path = coarse > medium > fine.

In addition, try not to pack the filter too full, as that can restrict flow alot. Make sure that when you shake the media trays you can still hear the media rattle and move abit.





> Should I close the shut off taps before I prime the filter?


Both taps must always be fully open when you prime the filter. Same as with all filters.

If the taps are closed or only partially open, water cannot enter and exit properly, causing airlocks and possibly breaking the priming handle due to pressure resistance.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> Well, so far i've been using Ecco Pro filters for my various tanks for many years and haven't encountered any issues. 
> 
> As long as they are maintained regularly, they will work well for a very long time. I have an old generation 2nd hand ecco unit (more than 10 yrs old) still working efficiently on one of my tanks.
> 
> I've helped some people troubleshoot problems with their filters and 95% of the time its usually due to user error. Most of it can be solved by simply checking the usage procedures again and refering to the instruction manual if unsure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Hi,Bro UA...Thanks for your help.

The reason for my weak outflow after closer examination of the Ecco powerhead is that I found out the white ball which is near the ball cage is blocking the outflow of the water.Somehow during previous monthly maintenance, the white ball dropped and I stuffed it firmly into the ball cage.Shifted the ball slightly and hey presto.....The outflow was as strong as a new Ecco.

Media wise is ok.Everything is ok.You are right to say 90% of problems for the Ecco is due to user problems.

----------


## Urban Aquaria

Yeah, that white ball is meant to float loosely inside the red plastic cage holder as a sort of rudimentary back-flow protection.

Good that its solved!  :Well done:

----------


## anaconda

Anyone using a Ecco 2233 can tell me how the media is suppose to be placed from bottom up?

I got 4 types in the canister
Blue Coarse Sponge
Ceramic Rings
Biohomme
White Fine Sponge

Just want to confirm what the sequence from top to bottom or bottom to top suppose to be as recently after more then 5 years with the filter i start getting low flowrate 3-7 days after cleaning

Thank you

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> Anyone using a Ecco 2233 can tell me how the media is suppose to be placed from bottom up?
> 
> I got 4 types in the canister
> Blue Coarse Sponge
> Ceramic Rings
> Biohomme
> White Fine Sponge
> 
> Just want to confirm what the sequence from top to bottom or bottom to top suppose to be as recently after more then 5 years with the filter i start getting low flowrate 3-7 days after cleaning
> ...


If you are using the older generation model ecco 2233 (the one with white media baskets and without the new pre-filter ring, not pro version), then the media placement according to flow from bottom to top would ideally be... blue coarse sponge pad > ceramic rings > biohomme > fine white filter wool pad.

Low flow rates occurring soon after cleaning just means the media are getting clogged up again too quickly, either the filter isn't cleaned fully or the media are packed too tightly. You can try doing a more complete cleaning (including taking apart the impeller housing and parts to clean) and also try to reduce the amount of media so that there can be more freedom of flow. Rinse all the media in old tank water throughly to dislodge debris too.

Also make sure you change out the white filter wool pad when it turns brown color, simply washing it doesn't help much as most of the fine particles will still be stuck inside it, hence it will just keep getting clogged up faster and faster each time. You have to change the entire file white filter wool pad with a brand new one, that is a regular wear and tear replacement item.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

Hi,UA.....I understand that when we do monthly servicing for our Eheim filters,we need to apply vaseline on the sealing ring?

Can I use my wife's aloe vera flavoured baseline on the sealing rings of my 2236 and 2075?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> Hi,UA.....I understand that when we do monthly servicing for our Eheim filters,we need to apply vaseline on the sealing ring?
> 
> Can I use my wife's aloe vera flavoured baseline on the sealing rings of my 2236 and 2075?


So far i've only applied the Eheim brand silicone grease on my filter o-rings and seals... i guess vaseline could be used too (based on what other users post online), though it'll be best if you use the unscented/unflavored versions, in case the extra additives might affect aquarium livestock.

For my filters, i usually only apply the grease once every 6 months or so though (even though i clean my filters every 2-3 months). I guess it depends on your filter's o-ring and seal condition and how regularly you maintain your filters.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

Ok,I understand the Eheim silicone grease comes in a canister spray form?

Is it available widely locally at LFS who are authorised Eheim dealers?How much does it costs per canister?

----------


## Dscheng

Seaview selling or other LFS. It is a very small package not spray form. Like lotion type. One small package cost 4bucks+.. if i am not wrong..
Picture say thousand of words.

----------


## Urban Aquaria

Yeah, i haven't seen the spray can version of the eheim silicone grease, i also only got the small packet version.

Each time only a very tiny dot of grease is used to lube the seals and o-rings anyways, so the packet is usually enough to use for up to a dozen or so times on a filter.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> Seaview selling or other LFS. It is a very small package not spray form. Like lotion type. One small package cost 4bucks+.. if i am not wrong..
> Picture say thousand of words.


I got the above packet from Clementi Florist today...How and which part do I apply the grease?Do I put a bit on my finger and run it along the side of the powerheads?

Is one pack enough for both my filters?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> I got the above packet from Clementi Florist today...How and which part do I apply the grease?Do I put a bit on my finger and run it along the side of the powerheads?
> 
> Is one pack enough for both my filters?


Just use a tiny amount enough to provide a thin layer of grease on the main large seal ring and the small o-rings in the tap connections.

No need to put gease on mechanical parts, only on the rubber seals and o-rings.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> Just use a tiny amount enough to provide a thin layer of grease on the main large seal ring and the small o-rings in the tap connections.
> 
> No need to put grease on mechanical parts, only on the rubber seals and o-rings.


So can I put the grease on a piece of cotton bud and run it along the main large sealing ring and small o-rings in the tap connections?

----------


## RenesisTurbo

Sorry,forgot to ask if I can fit the Eheim power diffusor/installation set 2 on my Ecco Pro 300 to allow better aeration for my fishes?

Thinking of fitting the power diffusor for my Pro 3 600 too.

----------


## Dscheng

> So can I put the grease on a piece of cotton bud and run it along the main large sealing ring and small o-rings in the tap connections?


Yes, it is what i do too. Apply on the large O ring or any rubber like the double tap small O ring.

----------


## Dscheng

Recently, i broke the my ecco pro 3 handle connector part ( 7312628 ) as below diagram? 
Anyone know i should buy the whole set of the container with the handle or it came with separate parts?

----------


## RenesisTurbo

I saw parts for the Ecco when I was at QH yesterday.Maybe you will like to call and check with them?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> Sorry,forgot to ask if I can fit the Eheim power diffusor/installation set 2 on my Ecco Pro 300 to allow better aeration for my fishes?
> 
> Thinking of fitting the power diffusor for my Pro 3 600 too.


The installation kits can fit your filter, just get the parts with the correct 12/16 size ports.

The power diffusers will help to aerate and create surface agitation, good for oxygenating the tank water.

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> Recently, i broke the my ecco pro 3 handle connector part ( 7312628 ) as below diagram? 
> Anyone know i should buy the whole set of the container with the handle or it came with separate parts?


You can buy the clips separately from Qian Hu, they come in small packets of 2pcs. Just a few dollars a pack.

Other LFS like Seaview or C328 might also have spare stock of those clips, have to check with them.

----------


## Dscheng

> You can buy the clips separately from Qian Hu, they come in small packets of 2pcs. Just a few dollars a pack.
> 
> Other LFS like Seaview or C328 might also have spare stock of those clips, have to check with them.


 So i just purchase the clips will do right?
Thank you !

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> So i just purchase the clips will do right?
> Thank you !


If you see that only the plastic clip is broken, then just get the clips to replace it.

Over the years, i've bought over quite a few 2nd hand ecco pro filters with broken clips before and fixed them. Just a quick 10 seconds of replacement and its back to working order again.

----------


## TheKiwi

Hey UA, wanted to check in with you. After using my Ecco pro 300 for a couple of months, I've noticed that my flow rate drops significantly after a couple of weeks of use. Thought it had to do with a faulty impeller, or perhaps my filter media were choked up. Did all the swaps and maintenance. No diff. As it turns out, cleaning out the filter tubes restored it to full flow. 

Thing is, my tuber wasn't even really dirty or gunked up at all. Just some spots of grime here and there. The rate always slows down after about 2 weeks, and cleaning the tubes always restores it to full flow (thus potentially ruling out a faulty impeller)

I'm wondering if it has to do with the fact that the lower power impeller used in the Ecco pro is just a lot less powerful than the ones used in the classic, and is thus sensitive to changes such as grime build up in the pipes?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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## Dscheng

> If you see that only the plastic clip is broken, then just get the clips to replace it.
> 
> Over the years, i've bought over quite a few 2nd hand ecco pro filters with broken clips before and fixed them. Just a quick 10 seconds of replacement and its back to working order again.


Yeah ! It works, the seaview staff kind enough to teach me how to replace it. It is really easy.

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> Hey UA, wanted to check in with you. After using my Ecco pro 300 for a couple of months, I've noticed that my flow rate drops significantly after a couple of weeks of use. Thought it had to do with a faulty impeller, or perhaps my filter media were choked up. Did all the swaps and maintenance. No diff. As it turns out, cleaning out the filter tubes restored it to full flow. 
> 
> Thing is, my tuber wasn't even really dirty or gunked up at all. Just some spots of grime here and there. The rate always slows down after about 2 weeks, and cleaning the tubes always restores it to full flow (thus potentially ruling out a faulty impeller)
> 
> I'm wondering if it has to do with the fact that the lower power impeller used in the Ecco pro is just a lot less powerful than the ones used in the classic, and is thus sensitive to changes such as grime build up in the pipes?


Canister filter flow rates do naturally decrease over time as the media, pipes and hoses clog up... hence the need for regular cleaning and maintenance. If your Ecco Pro 300 flow rate decreases noticeably after only just a 2 weeks if usage, then look at reducing the amount of media in the trays (it might be too full, hence clogging up more quickly, even with just abit of dirt and debris) or adjust/change the placement of the media (make sure they are positioned in the order of flow = coarse > medium > fine, otherwise debris will clog the finer media too early and reduce flow more quickly).

Also make sure you replace the white filter wool pad regularly (it is a wear and tear item that must be replaced), do not just wash it and re-use, most of the dirt will still be trapped inside it and can't be washed out, therefore it will keep clogging up faster and faster as times goes by.

It possible that the design of the Ecco Pro motor and impeller might be more susceptible to restrictions in flow due to blockages (since its an energy saving design), but simple adjustments to media and positioning should be able to optimize its performance.

Just for reference, i clean my Ecco Pro 300 unit every 3 months and alot of gunk has to be cleared out too (and i change out the white filter wool pad to a fresh new one at every maintenance). While the flow does also gradually decrease slightly in-between maintenance sessions, its only perhaps 10-20% less, not that significant to be of concern though.

----------


## Dscheng

> Canister filter flow rates do naturally decrease over time as the media, pipes and hoses clog up... hence the need for regular cleaning and maintenance. If your Ecco Pro 300 flow rate decreases noticeably after only just a 2 weeks if usage, then look at reducing the amount of media in the trays (it might be too full, hence clogging up more quickly, even with just abit of dirt and debris) or adjust/change the placement of the media (make sure they are positioned in the order of flow = coarse > medium > fine, otherwise debris will clog the finer media too early and reduce flow more quickly).
> 
> Also make sure you replace the white filter wool pad regularly (it is a wear and tear item that must be replaced), do not just wash it and re-use, most of the dirt will still be trapped inside it and can't be washed out, therefore it will keep clogging up faster and faster as times goes by.
> 
> It possible that the design of the Ecco Pro motor and impeller might be more susceptible to restrictions in flow due to blockages (since its an energy saving design), but simple adjustments to media and positioning should be able to optimize its performance.
> 
> Just for reference, i clean my Ecco Pro 300 unit every 3 months and alot of gunk has to be cleared out too (and i change out the white filter wool pad to a fresh new one at every maintenance). While the flow does also gradually decrease slightly in-between maintenance sessions, its only perhaps 10-20% less, not that significant to be of concern though.


For the filter wool pad, do you buy back Eheim brand.

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## Urban Aquaria

> For the filter wool pad, do you buy back Eheim brand.


I used to... then i switched over to buying those bulk packs of white filter wool sheets instead. Just need to use a pair of scissors to cut them into the required shape. They do a similar job and are much more economical.  :Grin:

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## Dscheng

> I used to... then i switched over to buying those bulk packs of white filter wool sheets instead. Just need to use a pair of scissors to cut them into the required shape. They do a similar job and are much more economical.


yeah, Ehiem one is just too expensive. Which white filter wool are you using? Saw a lot in seaview, but don't know which one is suitable.

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> yeah, Ehiem one is just too expensive. Which white filter wool are you using? Saw a lot in seaview, but don't know which one is suitable.


So far i've been using the Mika brand white filter wool and it works well. I buy the pack which comes in one large folded sheet, can cut out alot of pads with minimum wastage.

----------


## Dscheng

> So far i've been using the Mika brand white filter wool and it works well. I buy the pack which comes in one large folded sheet, can cut out alot of pads with minimum wastage.


Yeah ! I brought it yesterday. I had 3 type of ehiem fliter, Pro 3, Pro 2 and Ecco Pro 3. Going to cut three different shapes lolz.

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## Urban Aquaria

> Yeah ! I brought it yesterday. I had 3 type of ehiem fliter, Pro 3, Pro 2 and Ecco Pro 3. Going to cut three different shapes lolz.


Cool... ecco pro white filter wool pad is the easiest to cut out, just one circle. The other pro 2 and pro 3 pads need abit of extra art and craft skill to cut out the special shapes.  :Grin:

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## RenesisTurbo

I do change my filter wool every month for my Ecco Pro and Pro 3 600 when I do monthly servicing.

I thought of using the original Eheim sponges and filter wool before but opted for those aftermarket ones from Seaview aka brands like Mika.

A bit troublesome to cut into shape but my wife does it for me though.

For my Ecco Pro 300,noticed that my flow rate started to decline after the 3rd week from the last servicing.

Tried to experiment with using the power diffusers for both of my tanks,did not work eventually cos my Glowlights and platies were almost blown out of the tank and creating a tsunami.

In the other tank,my Comets and Ryukins preferred the water from the Eheim lily pipe and did not like the power diffuser too.Eventually exchanged the power diffusers for 2 packs of Purigen.

----------


## skytan

The filter pads set for Pro3 have OEM china ones but our side never seen it for sale.

----------


## TheKiwi

Interesting. My flow rate decreases quite significantly after a week. Maybe about 30% or more?

Not an issue with the impeller though; I've swapped it with a brand new one and it's the same. Media wise, I'm using the stock media that was provided, so I don't think I've overstuffed it with media. 

More interestingly, my flow rate reverts to full rate whenever I clean my pipes. But they aren't dirty, and I don't think a significant amount of gunk can accumulate in a week


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## RenesisTurbo

For me,I use the stock media for my Ecco Pro 300 too.But I swapped out the black rolls for a tray full of Seachem Matrix.The water in my goldfish tank became cleaner as a result.

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## ACG

Dear Pros, presently my canister Jebao 104 show signs of leaking and thus I am going to get a replacement for another canister filter.
Presently my tank is 3ft with Co2 with some average plants, shrimps and tetras. 
Can the pro bros advise on which Eheim model suitable for my present tank. 

Thanks and greatly appreciated for your advise.

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## Dscheng

> Dear Pros, presently my canister Jebao 104 show signs of leaking and thus I am going to get a replacement for another canister filter.
> Presently my tank is 3ft with Co2 with some average plants, shrimps and tetras. 
> Can the pro bros advise on which Eheim model suitable for my present tank. 
> 
> Thanks and greatly appreciated for your advise.


The bigger the better. Hehe get the Ehiem pro 4 350 new model with 1050 flowrate should be sufficient for your current tank.

https://www.eheim.com/en_GB/node/6249

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## mincedmeat

Personally, it would also have to depend on your budget. Remember, when buying Eheim, you're not just buying the brand but the reliability that is associated with it. Sure, it is not perfect but many and I would dare say it is the best in the market especially in terms of price and reliability. 

On the filters that you might want to consider, the Professional 4 will set you back between $400 - $500. If you're looking for a more budget option, look for the Eheim Classic 2215 or 2217. They are more affordable but they do not have the auto-priming function so you have to manually create a suction for the filter to start working. I personally like the Ecco Pro series and for the size of your tank, you are looking at the Ecco Pro 300.

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## RenesisTurbo

> Dear Pros, presently my canister Jebao 104 show signs of leaking and thus I am going to get a replacement for another canister filter.
> Presently my tank is 3ft with Co2 with some average plants, shrimps and tetras. 
> Can the pro bros advise on which Eheim model suitable for my present tank. 
> 
> Thanks and greatly appreciated for your advise.


I am using the Ecco Pro 300 for my goldfish tank and Pro 3 600 for my community tank.Both are good despite some misunderstanding in using the Ecco a short while back.

I am not a aquascaping guru but I read from UA last time that he uses the Ecco Pro for his aquascaping tanks if I am not wrong.....I see no difference from the Pro 3 and 4 except that Pro 4 is newer and comes with the Xtender function and more expensive as well.

BTW,I am looking to fit some custom parts from Eheim on both of my Ecco Pro 300 and Pro 3 600.Tried the diffuser on the Ecco but did not really like it.My Pro 3 600 is the 50th Anniversary version but I kept everything stock but I do have a Eheim lily pipe on the outlet for the Ecco Pro.

I have my eye on the round shaped prefilter which is fixed on the inlet pipe of all Eheim canisters instead of the small round mesh.

May I ask what does the round shaped prefilter do anyway?Does anyone use other asessories on the inlet and outlet pipes on their canister filter instead of keeping everything stock?

----------


## ACG

So does Pro 3 600 good enough for a 3ft planted tank?  :Question:  :d'oh!:

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## ACG

> Personally, it would also have to depend on your budget. Remember, when buying Eheim, you're not just buying the brand but the reliability that is associated with it. Sure, it is not perfect but many and I would dare say it is the best in the market especially in terms of price and reliability. 
> 
> On the filters that you might want to consider, the Professional 4 will set you back between $400 - $500. If you're looking for a more budget option, look for the Eheim Classic 2215 or 2217. They are more affordable but they do not have the auto-priming function so you have to manually create a suction for the filter to start working. I personally like the Ecco Pro series and for the size of your tank, you are looking at the Ecco Pro 300.



Thanks. I have read on UA mention about Ecco Pro 300. I am considering on that either. Now is trying to decide on Ecco Pro 300 or Pro 3 600

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## RenesisTurbo

> Thanks. I have read on UA mention about Ecco Pro 300. I am considering on that either. Now is trying to decide on Ecco Pro 300 or Pro 3 600


I cannot exactly tell you what you should buy.I choose the Pro 3 600 for higher flowrate to support my community tank while I choose the the Ecco 300 for my goldfishes cos just cleaning the Pro 3 monthly takes me 2 hours alone.Cleaning 2 units of Pro 3 600 will drain me totally just for that day.

Ecco is more easy to prime and clean but weakness is the low flow rate.But my goldfishes are not grumbling about it.

The prices for Ecco Pro 300 and Pro 3 600 is $220 and $380 at Y618.Much cheaper than Seaview or C328.Got both of my filters from there.

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## Urban Aquaria

The Ecco Pro 300 and Pro 3 600 are very different in terms of flow rate (750 l/ph vs 1,250 l/ph) and filtration volume (3.1L vs 6.5L).

Just for reference, i use the Ecco Pro 300 for my 2ft tanks... and the Pro 3 600 for my 4ft tank. All of them run along with inline Co2 reactors.

The Ecco Pro 300 could also be used for a 3ft tank too, as long as your bio-load is moderate and you do regular maintenance, and the plants are not too dense until it blocks off circulation. But if you have more budget and prefer more filtration and flow, then go for the Pro 3 600 model.

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## ACG

Thank you very much for all the guides and advise. I have in mind of which model to go to.

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## ACG

Last question on Eheim Ecco Pro 300. Are there factors I need to ensure? Such as the parts easily break or others.

Thank you very much.

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## RenesisTurbo

> Last question on Eheim Ecco Pro 300. Are there factors I need to ensure? Such as the parts easily break or others.
> 
> Thank you very much.


Before you push the priming lever to open your Ecco Pro,close your shut off taps and detach them from the powerhead to let the air out before pushing down the priming lever.If you try pushing the priming lever down while the shut off taps are closed and still attached to the powerhead,the whole lever will break.

I do attach a Eheim lily pipe to the outlet to spread the flow of water from the outlet as well.

Lastly,welcome to the Eheim family!

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## TheKiwi

Would it be possible for anyone to take a short video, showing the outlet flow for the Ecco pro 300 at about a month after maintenance? I'm still really puzzled by how dramatically my flow rate drops just after 4 days. 


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## RenesisTurbo

> Would it be possible for anyone to take a short video, showing the outlet flow for the Ecco pro 300 at about a month after maintenance? I'm still really puzzled by how dramatically my flow rate drops just after 4 days. 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Check the positioning of the white ball located near the outlet hole on the powerhead.Shift it away slightly from the hole if necessary.Test it out again after that.

Used to have a problem like this last month.

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## TheKiwi

> Check the positioning of the white ball located near the outlet hole on the powerhead.Shift it away slightly from the hole if necessary.Test it out again after that.


Would removing it completely make a difference? I was thinking that might make a conclusion more absolute 

At this point I've ruled out impeller issues since I've bought a new one. 

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## RenesisTurbo

> Would removing it completely make a difference? I was thinking that might make a conclusion more absolute 
> 
> At this point I've ruled out impeller issues since I've bought a new one. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The white ball is meant to prevent the back flow of the filtered water into the outlet side.Best is not to remove it.

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## TheKiwi

> The white ball is meant to prevent the back flow of the filtered water into the outlet side.Best is not to remove it.


Hmm spent the last hour messing with it. No difference I guess. Shifted the ball around, even removed it entirely. Didn't make a difference haha


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## RenesisTurbo

> Hmm spent the last hour messing with it. No difference I guess. Shifted the ball around, even removed it entirely. Didn't make a difference haha
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My last guess is the possibility of airlock.

Air which is trapped in your Ecco which prevents water from circulating around the filter properly.

May I ask how did you start up your filter?

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## TheKiwi

Hm. During maintenance I pour out all the dirty water. 

After assembly: connect back intake and outtake. 

Open the intake, then outtake. I push the handle down and up once. Water starts flowing into the filter, and I let it continue until the outlet stops bubbling. Then I plug the power socket in. 

My understanding is that with airlock, the filter would make noise? Mine's hella quiet. 

the only puzzling thing is that every time I clean my intake and outtake tubes with one of those long brushes, the flow would be super fast again for about 4 days :/


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## RenesisTurbo

After washing the hoses,impeller,canister and filter media (with tank water and changing the white filter wool),I usually put the 3 trays and prefilter and fill the canister with tank water until 3 quarters full,start it up and prime it.

Maybe you could try this method?

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## RenesisTurbo

After washing the hoses,impeller,canister and filter media (with tank water and changing the white filter wool),I usually put the 3 trays and prefilter and fill the canister with tank water until 3 quarters full,start it up and prime it.

Maybe you could try this method?

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## TheKiwi

> After washing the hoses,impeller,canister and filter media (with tank water and changing the white filter wool),I usually put the 3 trays and prefilter and fill the canister with tank water until 3 quarters full,start it up and prime it.
> 
> Maybe you could try this method?


Hahahah just tried it. No difference it seems. Hrm. Thanks for the suggestions though!


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## RenesisTurbo

> Hahahah just tried it. No difference it seems. Hrm. Thanks for the suggestions though!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Maybe you could page for UA and wait for his reply.

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## ACG

Hi All, just to update that I have manage to get the Ecco Pro 300 and run smoothly too. Thanks all for all the valuable advise and guidance. 
I have another question and that is before that my canister hose is 16/22 and hence I used the ISTA Co2 reactor (L). However, Ecco Pro 300 hose is 12/16, so is it necessary to replace the Co2 reactor or I can still use that and does it affect the flow rate?

I have asked the Seaview staff and they said I can still continue use the (L) and does not affect any.

Please advise me. Thank you once again.

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## mincedmeat

Don't suppose it might be an issue though the question would be if the current hose size can fit with the reactor. If can't, head to the LFS and look for the appropriate connector

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## RenesisTurbo

Anyone knows or heard of the Eheim prefilter which is fixed to the inlet pipe of all Eheim canisters?I think it is black and round shaped with 2 pieces of sponges inside.

Does it mean I can do cleaning of the filter every 2 months instead of monthly cleaning if I fix the prefilter on my Ecco Pro?

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## ACG

> Don't suppose it might be an issue though the question would be if the current hose size can fit with the reactor. If can't, head to the LFS and look for the appropriate connector


Thanks.

Hose able fit to reactor as it comes in 12/16 with connector 16/22. What I am concern is the flowrate thou.

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## TheKiwi

> Maybe you could page for UA and wait for his reply.


Haha I've sorta given up alrdy  I just can't decide if I wanna take the risk and buy another Ecco pro 300; was wondering maybe the motor head unit is just faulty. Going back to c328 for a exchange seems like it's gonna be a hellish experience. 

Last night I even tried running the unit with all the filter baskets removed. Made no diff. So far I've ruled out airlock, excess filter media, faulty impeller, improper priming and set up. 


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## RenesisTurbo

> Haha I've sorta given up alrdy  I just can't decide if I wanna take the risk and buy another Ecco pro 300; was wondering maybe the motor head unit is just faulty. Going back to c328 for a exchange seems like it's gonna be a hellish experience. 
> 
> Last night I even tried running the unit with all the filter baskets removed. Made no diff. So far I've ruled out airlock, excess filter media, faulty impeller, improper priming and set up. 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Bring down to Qian Hu and ask what's wrong with it.You have a 3 years warranty right?

I do understand what you are going through cos I went through that just last month.Nearly gave up on the Ecco but I gave it one final chance,looked through it over and over again and it worked for me.

Or just get the Pro 3 series instead.

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## TheKiwi

> Bring down to Qian Hu and ask what's wrong with it.You have a 3 years warranty right?
> 
> Or just get the Pro 3 series instead.


Hm yeah. There was a warranty card that came in the box. However c328 didn't stamp nor sign on it, so I'm not sure how that would turn out. I do have a photo of my original receipt though. I'll do that this Saturday then!


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## RenesisTurbo

> Hm yeah. There was a warranty card that came in the box. However c328 didn't stamp nor sign on it, so I'm not sure how that would turn out. I do have a photo of my original receipt though. I'll do that this Saturday then!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ecco range is not bad but just that sometimes things do happen suddenly.Hope your machine will work again soon.

BTW,can you describe the arrangement of your filter media?

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## mincedmeat

Some things that you might want to look out for, even if its trivial or _duh!_:

- Are the hoses bent/warped in any weird shape? This would affect flow rate
- Is the intake unit in your tank blocked/obstructed?
- Do you place any other things (i.e. sponge filter, mesh guard, etc.) on the intake unit? If it gets clogged easily, there's a chance that the flow rate would be affected as well
- Did you by accident turn down the intake flow? Remember that the flow rate is also affected by this. 
- How packed are your media in the cannister? If each basket is filled to the brim and packed tightly, it doesn't take very long for it to get clogged, especially the filter wool.

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## jackychun

So far I have no problem using Eheim Ecco Pro 300 for my 2ft tank. Water do slow down after about 2 months and I know it is time to do maintenance work. When the flow is strong, you can see the "dimple" on the surface water if the outflow pipe place near the surface too. 

I cleaned out all the hoses, removed media if that was too pack, change the white sponge and lastly clean the impellers, white ball...etc. 


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## TheKiwi

Wub. Thanks everyone for chiming in. Let's see:

media used: I'm using the standard media that came with the unit, so I'm certain that I did not overpacked it. Additionally, removing the all media baskets made no difference to the flow. Edit to add: I also added a 100ml Purigen pack after the white floss pad

Arrangement, from bottom to top: black cylinder mech media, the flat squarish ceramic media, the round substrate pro, topped with the white floss pad, and then there's the blue pre-filter ring. 

Positioning and hoses: this is how mine looks like. Slight curve. Total length of hose is about 1.6m


Intake is kept standard; no pre filter. The outtake is also standard; no attachments

Intake and outtake taps are fully open



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## Urban Aquaria

> Anyone knows or heard of the Eheim prefilter which is fixed to the inlet pipe of all Eheim canisters?I think it is black and round shaped with 2 pieces of sponges inside.
> 
> Does it mean I can do cleaning of the filter every 2 months instead of monthly cleaning if I fix the prefilter on my Ecco Pro?


In theory, adding a pre-filter sponge unit can help to extend filter maintenance interval by trapping most of the larger debris. You can use the cheap shrimp sponge guards or the fancy eheim pre-filter, both work similarly.

You'll still have to remove the pre-filter unit to clean regularly though, usually on a weekly basis, otherwise it will clog up quite fast. It does take alot less time to clean a pre-filter sponge though, rather than the entire filter.

The only disadvantage with a pre-filter unit like the eheim one is some people find that it looks bulky and ugly in the tank, but if you don't mind the look, its good to install a unit.  :Smile:

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## Urban Aquaria

> Wub. Thanks everyone for chiming in. Let's see:
> 
> media used: I'm using the standard media that came with the unit, so I'm certain that I did not overpacked it. Additionally, removing the all media baskets made no difference to the flow. Edit to add: I also added a 100ml Purigen pack after the white floss pad
> 
> Arrangement, from bottom to top: black cylinder mech media, the flat squarish ceramic media, the round substrate pro, topped with the white floss pad, and then there's the blue pre-filter ring. 
> 
> Positioning and hoses: this is how mine looks like. Slight curve. Total length of hose is about 1.6m
> 
> Intake is kept standard; no pre filter. The outtake is also standard; no attachments
> ...


Sounds like a normal standard setup... i guess if your flow rate drops alot after only a short time (ie. a few days), then most likely the debris generated in the tank is quite high, hence everything just gets clogged up much faster. In such cases, you have no choice but to just clean the tank and filter more often.

Btw, when you clean your filter, did you open the impeller housing itself and clean the impeller and all the parts? Including scrubbing inside the input and output ports using a flexible brush?

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## TheKiwi

> Sounds like a normal standard setup... i guess if your flow rate drops alot after only a short time (ie. a few days), then most likely the debris generated in the tank is quite high, hence everything just gets clogged up much faster. In such cases, you have no choice but to just clean the tank and filter more often.
> 
> Btw, when you clean your filter, did you open the impeller housing itself and clean the impeller and all the parts? Including scrubbing inside the input and output ports using a flexible brush?


Yup! I pop off the cap, remove the impeller, as well as the ball-and-cage pieces. I use a little brush to reach in a scrub. 

I've also tried one time when I clean the media, change the floss pad, scrubbed the impeller housing, and there's no difference to the flow. However the moment I clean the pipes, the flow is immediately restored. 


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## Urban Aquaria

> Yup! I pop off the cap, remove the impeller, as well as the ball-and-cage pieces. I use a little brush to reach in a scrub. 
> 
> I've also tried one time when I clean the media, change the floss pad, scrubbed the impeller housing, and there's no difference to the flow. However the moment I clean the pipes, the flow is immediately restored.


Looks like its narrowed down to the pipes and hoses clogging up with mulm and algae... but usually that takes a few weeks or months to slowly accumulate, not just a few days.

For my filters, i use transparent hoses with glass and clear acrylic lily pipes, so i can see dirt gradually coat them over time. Usually it takes around 2+ months before mulm and algae accumulate noticeably and i have to clean them. I run low-moderate lighting though, so that probably helps to slow down algae growth.

I guess if you are running a higher light tank, then just have to clean the pipes and hoses more often to maintain optimal flow rate.

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## RenesisTurbo

Thanks for the advice,UA.

Just curious...Did you used to work for Eheim last time in some capacity?You seem to know a lot about Eheim's products.

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## Urban Aquaria

> Thanks for the advice,UA.
> 
> Just curious...Did you used to work for Eheim last time in some capacity?You seem to know a lot about Eheim's products.


I haven't worked in the aquarium industry... i'm just a long-time user of eheim filters and equipment. Just from personal usage experience.  :Very Happy:

----------


## jackychun

Recently, I have removed the purigen pack in my filter for the flow to increase better. With the purigen pack there, the flow decrease quite remarkable. Normally how much purigen shall we place in the filter?


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## Urban Aquaria

I use the 100ml Purigen pack for my 2ft tanks... usually lasts 3-4 months before it gets brown enough to need recharging. Depends alot on the bio-load. I guess if you use more, it'll just last longer between recharges.

I just reduce the amount of media in the top tray so that there is more space for the purigen pack and it sits loosely, got abit of extra space to move. That helps to minimize flow reduction.

----------


## TheKiwi

> Looks like its narrowed down to the pipes and hoses clogging up with mulm and algae... but usually that takes a few weeks or months to slowly accumulate, not just a few days.
> 
> For my filters, i use transparent hoses with glass and clear acrylic lily pipes, so i can see dirt gradually coat them over time. Usually it takes around 2+ months before mulm and algae accumulate noticeably and i have to clean them. I run low-moderate lighting though, so that probably helps to slow down algae growth.
> 
> I guess if you are running a higher light tank, then just have to clean the pipes and hoses more often to maintain optimal flow rate.


Yeah. I guess I was a trying to figure out if there were other issues going on, and the build up in my pipes was simply the tipping point. From what I understand it is exactly as you said: it takes weeks or even a month or so for enough stuff to accumulate and reduce the flow that substantially. My tank is really under stocked and I feed really sparingly. Oh well. I'll mess around with it a little more I guess 


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## Dscheng

Ehiem filter indeed very good. Most of the LFS carry ehiem parts too, with proper maintenance and care, it can really last you for a long time.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> Yeah. I guess I was a trying to figure out if there were other issues going on, and the build up in my pipes was simply the tipping point. From what I understand it is exactly as you said: it takes weeks or even a month or so for enough stuff to accumulate and reduce the flow that substantially. My tank is really under stocked and I feed really sparingly. Oh well. I'll mess around with it a little more I guess 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Play around with the filter more and you will know and understand more about it.It takes 3 weeks for my water flow to start declining.I use the Ecco for my goldfish tank.

They really eat and poo a lot.

----------


## ACG

Does Eheim Classic 600 suitable for a 4ft planted tank? I understand that it does need to prime as well?

----------


## ACG

Please ignore the earlier question.

Eheim Classic 350 or 600 for a 3ft standard planted tank? Which is advisable? Because I intend to get another filter.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> Please ignore the earlier question.
> 
> Eheim Classic 350 or 600 for a 3ft standard planted tank? Which is advisable? Because I intend to get another filter.


If you have the money,why not consider the Pro 3 series?

I don't really like to suck manually in order to prime the filter.Used 2213 10 years ago and had to suck the inlet in order to create the priming process.Drank some tank water in the process.

----------


## ACG

> If you have the money,why not consider the Pro 3 series?
> 
> I don't really like to suck manually in order to prime the filter.Used 2213 10 years ago and had to suck the inlet in order to create the priming process.Drank some tank water in the process.


Thanks for your suggestion.

----------


## ACG

Does Pro 3 350 good enough?

----------


## RenesisTurbo

If it was me,I will get the Pro 3 600.

That is what I got after I decided that I will use the Ecco for my Ryukins and Comets.My Pro 3 600 is used for my Mexican/Amazon River lookalike tank.

----------


## ACG

I have just bought the Pro 3 600. And there's this little bottle EHEIM watercare. For plants i guess. Is that good compare to Seachem Flourish?

----------


## RenesisTurbo

Wah,so good.....Got free gift some more.I did not even have that when I bought my Pro 3 600 2 years ago from Y618.

Is your Pro 3 the 50th Anniversary Special Edition as well?

----------


## ACG

What 50th anniversary? Hehe. I just got it yesterday from Seaview

----------


## ACG

> Wah,so good.....Got free gift some more.I did not even have that when I bought my Pro 3 600 2 years ago from Y618.
> 
> Is your Pro 3 the 50th Anniversary Special Edition as well?


Any difference on the special edition?

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> Any difference on the special edition?


$_1.jpeg

1890343_10152862736158351_8680750990290127947_o.jpg

I think the hoses and canister container are all black.Comes with Installation Parts 1 and 2.

5 years warranty instead of 3 years.Other than that,everything is the same.

----------


## ACG

> $_1.jpeg
> 
> 1890343_10152862736158351_8680750990290127947_o.jpg
> 
> I think the hoses and canister container are all black.Comes with Installation Parts 1 and 2.
> 
> 5 years warranty instead of 3 years.Other than that,everything is the same.


Mine is 3 years warranty. Does the installation parts 1 & 2 useful?

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> Mine is 3 years warranty. Does the installation parts 1 & 2 useful?


The shape of the inlet and outlet is different from the normal Pro 3.The outlet is a rain bar though.

I like to mix and match with Eheim parts but the rain bar is enough to create aeration in my community tank.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

I am looking to install the power diffuser on top of the prefilter for my Ryukins and Comets cos I noticed that they like to hover near the surface when the outflow starts to decline 3 weeks after cleaning.But I was advised by someone not to do so cos goldfishes do not like fast moving water.Right now,I have a prefilter and lily pipe installed on the inlet and outlet pipes of my Ecco Pro 300.

What are your opinions on this?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

If you want to create more surface agitation, just lift up the lily pipe halfway above the water surface, it will churn and splash the water. Does the same job. 

It'll look like this:



Photo from ADA website.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> If you want to create more surface agitation, just lift up the lily pipe halfway above the water surface, it will churn and splash the water. Does the same job. 
> 
> It'll look like this:
> 
> 
> 
> Photo from ADA website.


OK, so the goldfishes are fine with either slow or fast moving waters?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> OK, so the goldfishes are fine with either slow or fast moving waters?


Well, as with keeping swimming impaired livestock like goldfishes, you'll just have to adjust the flow and observe them. If they are swirling around the tank like as if in a washing machine, then its probably too much flow, have to reduce... though i've seen people keep high flow goldfish tanks before, the fishes just keep getting swirled round and round the tank, looks weird.  :Grin:  

If your goldfishes can swim around easily and there are areas in the tank with slower flow for them to rest, then it should be comfortable enough for them.

Btw, increasing surface agitation by using air diffusers, air stones or lifting the lily pipe higher will not increase flow anyways, since the overall flow rate is still the same.

----------


## jackychun

> I use the 100ml Purigen pack for my 2ft tanks... usually lasts 3-4 months before it gets brown enough to need recharging. Depends alot on the bio-load. I guess if you use more, it'll just last longer between recharges.
> 
> I just reduce the amount of media in the top tray so that there is more space for the purigen pack and it sits loosely, got abit of extra space to move. That helps to minimize flow reduction.


Hi UA, may I know how do you recharge the Purigen? Which kind of bleach do you use for that? I will reduce the top tray next time to put in purigen again. 


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## Vainkid

> Attachment 53616
> 
> Attachment 53617
> 
> I think the hoses and canister container are all black.Comes with Installation Parts 1 and 2.
> 
> 5 years warranty instead of 3 years.Other than that,everything is the same.


Hi May i know where can i find this? Thanks

Spend a few days to finish reading the whole thread and head down to sea view but only see the normal version.

----------


## BFG

Renesis Turbo , there is a fake plastic lily pipe head attachment sold in the lfs , green in colour . Using that , it will diffuse and slow down the water movement . My previous 3ft tank was using that , so much so that plants were covered with dust on the opposite end due not much water movement . I was using Eheim 2028/2026 back then .

----------


## ACG

> Hi UA, may I know how do you recharge the Purigen? Which kind of bleach do you use for that? I will reduce the top tray next time to put in purigen again. 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I am curious which bleach to use. I got the colour bleach.

----------


## ACG

> Hi May i know where can i find this? Thanks
> 
> Spend a few days to finish reading the whole thread and head down to sea view but only see the normal version.


I think those are limited stocks. No more selling.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> Hi May i know where can i find this? Thanks
> 
> Spend a few days to finish reading the whole thread and head down to sea view but only see the normal version.


You are lookin for the Installation Parts 1 and 2?Saw it just last night at Clementi Florist and Aquarium Shop.You might want to go quickly cos last few pieces left.

BTW,heard rumours of a bigger Ecco Pro coming out in a new version in 2017.Don't know whether it's true or not.

Too bad Mr Eheim has already uplorried.....I saw him on YouTube in a interview with a very old model of Classic canister filter from the 1960s.Very retro.

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## Urban Aquaria

> Hi UA, may I know how do you recharge the Purigen? Which kind of bleach do you use for that? I will reduce the top tray next time to put in purigen again.


I just use the regular clorox bleach (non-scented version) and follow the purigen recharging instructions.

Note that each time you recharge it the efficiency gradually decreases, so after a few recharges its best to replace it with a new pack. I usually recharge mine for around 3-4 times (depending on how fast it exhaust its capacity) before doing a new replacement.

----------


## Vainkid

> You are lookin for the Installation Parts 1 and 2?Saw it just last night at Clementi Florist and Aquarium Shop.You might want to go quickly cos last few pieces left.
> 
> BTW,heard rumours of a bigger Ecco Pro coming out in a new version in 2017.Don't know whether it's true or not.
> 
> Too bad Mr Eheim has already uplorried.....I saw him on YouTube in a interview with a very old model of Classic canister filter from the 1960s.Very retro.


Oh thank u bro. I wont be getting immediately because my bto reno should end next week therefore plenty of dust particles flying here and there. Maybe i will just wait.




> I think those are limited stocks. No more selling.


Thank you bro for the info.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> Oh thank u bro. I wont be getting immediately because my bto reno should end next week therefore plenty of dust particles flying here and there. Maybe i will just wait.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you bro for the info.


One last thing.....Y618 sells Pro 3 cheaper than Seaview or C328 if you are getting one.Price is around $380.

----------


## corepad

Hey guys, is it normal if my ehem 2213 rattle abit when I start it up. e.g I on power, the 2213 will rattle and very quickly go silent.

----------


## Mystikboy

Did you fill the canister with water? If you just cleaned the filter and left it without water, the impeller will rattle briefly before the water enters it from the inlet.

----------


## Mystikboy

Did you fill the canister with water? If you just cleaned the filter and left it without water, the impeller will rattle briefly before the water enters it from the inlet.

----------


## corepad

> Did you fill the canister with water? If you just cleaned the filter and left it without water, the impeller will rattle briefly before the water enters it from the inlet.


It rattle briefly even if it's filled with water. E.g I switch off 2213 for wc, switch it back on after that it will rattle briefly.

----------


## jackychun

> I just use the regular clorox bleach (non-scented version) and follow the purigen recharging instructions.
> 
> Note that each time you recharge it the efficiency gradually decreases, so after a few recharges its best to replace it with a new pack. I usually recharge mine for around 3-4 times (depending on how fast it exhaust its capacity) before doing a new replacement.


Thanks UA. I will try it out! 


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## Urban Aquaria

> It rattle briefly even if it's filled with water. E.g I switch off 2213 for wc, switch it back on after that it will rattle briefly.


Thats normal, its just the initial kick effect by the impeller as it bounces off the internal sleeve when started. Once it spins and becomes stable, there will be no more sound.

As long as you only hear the click sound a split second at the start and after that its silent, its okay.

----------


## corepad

> Thats normal, its just the initial kick effect by the impeller as it bounces off the internal sleeve when started. Once it spins and becomes stable, there will be no more sound.
> 
> As long as you only hear the click sound a split second at the start and after that its silent, its okay.


Ya that's how my 2213 behaved. Cause I am intending to change to a 2217, wanna make sure this ratting noise when start up is normal as I do not wanna sell a faulty equipment and listing it as working fine.

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## Vainkid

> One last thing.....Y618 sells Pro 3 cheaper than Seaview or C328 if you are getting one.Price is around $380.


Hi bro thanks for sharing i saw the pro3 600 @ seaview at $400.

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## Vainkid

Hi guys, i've two noob question.

1. Is it possible to fit one largest eheim (lets say the big gun 1200XLT) to work on two tank 3×1.5×1.5 simultaneously?

2. Saw some bigger series with temperature control of 18 degree to 30 degree. Does that work as a chiller function lets say if i set it at 25 degree and it will maintained at the set temperature?

Just curious whether the spend that kind of money instead of a canister filter + chiller. Thank in advance

----------


## BFG

> Hi guys, i've two noob question.
> 
> 1. Is it possible to fit one largest eheim (lets say the big gun 1200XLT) to work on two tank 3×1.5×1.5 simultaneously?
> 
> 2. Saw some bigger series with temperature control of 18 degree to 30 degree. Does that work as a chiller function lets say if i set it at 25 degree and it will maintained at the set temperature?
> 
> Just curious whether the spend that kind of money instead of a canister filter + chiller. Thank in advance


1. Both tank need an overflow system that will feed into a sump . From the sump , the filter output will be split into 2 display tank .

2. I think the model you saw was a heater built in , not a chiller .

----------


## Urban Aquaria

There is another interesting method to share one canister filter with 2 tanks, but that requires a water bridge setup... both tanks are positioned side-by-side on same level, water bridge link both tanks, canister filter output in the 1st tank and intake in the 2nd tank. The water bridge would need to be large enough to keep the volumes in balance though, especially with large tank volumes and high flow canister filters.

Here is an example: http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum...4-Water-Bridge

Water bridge info: http://www.bio-elite.co.za/waterbridge.htm

A diagram from google images:



Source: http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums...-tanks.231687/

The potential issues with such setups is if the water bridge somehow fails or clog up, then water volume will become unbalance and one tank will fill up until it floods. Due to the arrangement, one tank will also have lots of flow while the other tank not much flow (though that can be solved with wave-makers or powerheads).

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> 2. Saw some bigger series with temperature control of 18 degree to 30 degree. Does that work as a chiller function lets say if i set it at 25 degree and it will maintained at the set temperature?
> 
> Just curious whether the spend that kind of money instead of a canister filter + chiller. Thank in advance


If you are looking at the XLT eheim canister filters, those come with integrated heater feature (not chiller). The temperature adjustment is only for warming up the water to 18-34°C... it does not perform cooling effects.

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## Vainkid

> 1. Both tank need an overflow system that will feed into a sump . From the sump , the filter output will be split into 2 display tank .
> 
> 2. I think the model you saw was a heater built in , not a chiller .





> If you are looking at the XLT eheim canister filters, those come with integrated heater feature (not chiller). The temperature adjustment is only for warming up the water to 18-34°C... it does not perform cooling effects.





> There is another interesting method to share one canister filter with 2 tanks, but that requires a water bridge setup... both tanks are positioned side-by-side on same level, water bridge link both tanks, canister filter output in the 1st tank and intake in the 2nd tank. The water bridge would need to be large enough to keep the volumes in balance though, especially with large tank volumes and high flow canister filters.
> 
> Here is an example: http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum...4-Water-Bridge
> 
> Water bridge info: http://www.bio-elite.co.za/waterbridge.htm
> 
> A diagram from google images:
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks bro BFG & UA for sharing.

Then i feel the 1200XLT is redundant as i dont need heater function in our hot environment.

Its really creative suggestions proposed but i prefer the tank to be as spacious as possible

Today went Y618 to check out the pro3 600. Wow its really bulky compare to visualizing from sea view shelving.

Just wonder if the pro3 600 sufficient for a 3/4 ft tank? Gonna link with a chiller and sun sun prefilter recommended by both senior previously.

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> Thanks bro BFG & UA for sharing.
> 
> Then i feel the 1200XLT is redundant as i dont need heater function in our hot environment.
> 
> Its really creative suggestions proposed but i prefer the tank to be as spacious as possible
> 
> Today went Y618 to check out the pro3 600. Wow its really bulky compare to visualizing from sea view shelving.
> 
> Just wonder if the pro3 600 sufficient for a 3/4 ft tank? Gonna link with a chiller and sun sun prefilter recommended by both senior previously.


Yeah, most people locally will go for the non-heater versions... unless they really need something integrated which keeps their tank warmer like discus tanks. 

I'm currently using a Pro3 600 for a 4ft tank, its sufficient filtration for a moderate bio-load, but if you were to link it with a chiller and pre-filter then the overall flow rate will decrease quite a fair bit. In such a case, if you have a densely planted tank which requires more circulation, then you might need to install an additional wave-maker or powerhead to help cover possible deadspots.

----------


## Vainkid

> Yeah, most people locally will go for the non-heater versions... unless they really need something integrated which keeps their tank warmer like discus tanks. 
> 
> I'm currently using a Pro3 600 for a 4ft tank, its sufficient filtration for a moderate bio-load, but if you were to link it with a chiller and pre-filter then the overall flow rate will decrease quite a fair bit. In such a case, if you have a densely planted tank which requires more circulation, then you might need to install an additional wave-maker or powerhead to help cover possible deadspots.


What if i dont use chiller?

What if i get the 1200xl instead? Whats the price differences?

Thanks bro ua

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> What if i dont use chiller?
> 
> What if i get the 1200xl instead? Whats the price differences?


If no chiller, then the reduction in overall flow rate wouldn't be as much.

A 1200XL would generate alot more flow, and could sufficiently compensate for the flow reductions from pre-filter and chiller. It'll just cost more, though i'm not sure about the pricing. I guess you'll just have shop around and check at the LFS.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> Thanks bro BFG & UA for sharing.
> 
> Then i feel the 1200XLT is redundant as i dont need heater function in our hot environment.
> 
> Its really creative suggestions proposed but i prefer the tank to be as spacious as possible
> 
> Today went Y618 to check out the pro3 600. Wow its really bulky compare to visualizing from sea view shelving.
> 
> Just wonder if the pro3 600 sufficient for a 3/4 ft tank? Gonna link with a chiller and sun sun prefilter recommended by both senior previously.


Quite bulky and not easy to get it back home on the bus but quite effective for my 203 liter tank.

Water flow could be controlled and filter media could be customised as well in the 4 trays instead of using the original Eheim ones.

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## Vainkid

> If no chiller, then the reduction in overall flow rate wouldn't be as much.
> 
> A 1200XL would generate alot more flow, and could sufficiently compensate for the flow reductions from pre-filter and chiller. It'll just cost more, though i'm not sure about the pricing. I guess you'll just have shop around and check at the LFS.


Thanks bro. Will check it out.




> Quite bulky and not easy to get it back home on the bus but quite effective for my 203 liter tank.
> 
> Water flow could be controlled and filter media could be customised as well in the 4 trays instead of using the original Eheim ones.


Agree bro. Cant imagine the size of 1200xl instead if the 600. Maybe a size of the bin? :P

Read alot of positive review of eheim canisters hence decided to settle down with that. Just torn between the flowrate due to the addons. Cheers

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## RenesisTurbo

Best thing is you can strip off some original attachments and add on some parts like air diffuser and prefilter onto your Eheim units.I did so for my Ecco Pro 300.Kept my Pro 3 in stock conditions though cos the Installation parts 1 and 2 comes with a rain bar which is good enough for all my fishes.Tried fitting a power diffuser but ended up creating a tsunami in my tank and stressing all the small fishes.

My aim is to always make life better for my lifestock and looking to change or add certain parts to my units to improve their lives.

----------


## BFG

Hold on .

If you are getting a large canister filter , I would suggest a larger prefilter too ! If the prefilter is too small compared to the main canister filter , the flow might be limited when going through the prefilter and into the large canister filter . Its like drinking with a small diameter straw like the ones that came with the Yakult or Vitagen drink as compared to using a large straw , something that can fit those ball jelly thingy drinks . I hope you can understand my point , me am on night shift so quite sleepy , forgotten what the drink name is , the one with the jelly ball in it .

----------


## ACG

> Hold on .
> 
> If you are getting a large canister filter , I would suggest a larger prefilter too ! If the prefilter is too small compared to the main canister filter , the flow might be limited when going through the prefilter and into the large canister filter . Its like drinking with a small diameter straw like the ones that came with the Yakult or Vitagen drink as compared to using a large straw , something that can fit those ball jelly thingy drinks . I hope you can understand my point , me am on night shift so quite sleepy , forgotten what the drink name is , the one with the jelly ball in it .


Are you referring to bubble tea?

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> Hold on .
> 
> If you are getting a large canister filter , I would suggest a larger prefilter too ! If the prefilter is too small compared to the main canister filter , the flow might be limited when going through the prefilter and into the large canister filter . Its like drinking with a small diameter straw like the ones that came with the Yakult or Vitagen drink as compared to using a large straw , something that can fit those ball jelly thingy drinks . I hope you can understand my point , me am on night shift so quite sleepy , forgotten what the drink name is , the one with the jelly ball in it .


If I am not wrong,there is only one prefilter that is available from Eheim right?

It is round and black in color?The one that looks like a soft drink can?I have that fitted on my 2236.

----------


## Vainkid

Thanks for sharing Bro RT and BFG. Will take note and start a journal for my first tank.

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> Thanks for sharing Bro RT and BFG. Will take note and start a journal for my first tank.


You are welcome,I am also quite new to Eheim.....I only got to know about this German brand 11 years ago when I visited Qian Hu after I grew dissatisfied with using their Ocean Free hang-on filters.Since then,apart from a break from fishkeeping from 2008-2014,I used Eheim Pick-Up internal filters and 2213 Classic filter.When I was doing some research on Eheim filters,I was amazed to see so many new canister filters from Eheim like Ecco Pro and Pro 3 when I mulled over the idea of keeping fishes again in 2014 after getting my BTO.Got 2 new fish tanks with the Ecco Pro and Pro 3 soon and here I am today.....continuing the love affair with breeding and keeping fishes.

BTW,does the Pro 3 600 have the biggest flow rate among all the Eheim filters?Before I got my Pro 3 600,someone advised me to get the Fluval FX6 as their flow rate is double of the 2075.Did not get it as it was quite expensive and unwilling to venture into a brand that I did not know much of.

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> BTW,does the Pro 3 600 have the biggest flow rate among all the Eheim filters?Before I got my Pro 3 600,someone advised me to get the Fluval FX6 as their flow rate is double of the 2075.Did not get it as it was quite expensive and unwilling to venture into a brand that I did not know much of.


Well, there are eheim filter models that have even higher flow rate than the Pro3 600, for example... the Pro3 1200XL @ 1,700 l/ph and the monster-sized Classic 1500XL @ 2,4000 l/ph (aka the green dustbin).  :Grin:

----------


## RenesisTurbo

> Well, there are eheim filter models that have even higher flow rate than the Pro3 600, for example... the Pro3 1200XL @ 1,700 l/ph and the monster-sized Classic 1500XL @ 2,4000 l/ph (aka the green dustbin).


So if I were to grow an interest in aquascaping one day,is the Ecco Pro 300 or Pro 3 600 suitable for it?

Is it very common for people in Singapore to use the Pro 3 1200XL or Classic 1500XL?

----------


## Urban Aquaria

> So if I were to grow an interest in aquascaping one day,is the Ecco Pro 300 or Pro 3 600 suitable for it?
> 
> Is it very common for people in Singapore to use the Pro 3 1200XL or Classic 1500XL?


Depends on the dimensions and volume of the tank, just have to pick the right filter model to match the tank size. 

I do know of a number of chaps using those larger high-flow filters models, usually they are running the larger 4ft-6ft tank setups which require the much higher flow rates and larger media volumes (at least amongst those not already running sump tank setups).

----------


## BFG

> Are you referring to bubble tea?


Yes , thats what I've forgotten . 

Also , using a 2nd hand Classic canister filter and remove the impeller and voila , instant prefilter ! Maybe a 2215 or even a 2217 too !

----------


## ACG

> Depends on the dimensions and volume of the tank, just have to pick the right filter model to match the tank size. 
> 
> I do know of a number of chaps using those larger high-flow filters models, usually they are running the larger 4ft-6ft tank setups which require the much higher flow rates and larger media volumes (at least amongst those not already running sump tank setups).


Hi UA, is it alright if I were to use 2 canister filter instead of getting the (green dustbin)?
Example a 3ft + 2ft tank with Ecco Pro 3 and Pro 3 600.

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## Vainkid

Hi thats what im considering too. Maybe two 600s is more economic than the dustbin and save quite some space?

Anyone know the price for 1200xl and 1500xl?

Thanks

----------


## ACG

I rather to have 2 canister filters than 1 dustbin.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

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## jackychun

Hi guys, may I know roughly how long the bacteria can survive when filter stop running? There is upgrading work in my HDB now and they will have power cut about 2-3 hours. I am worried that will affect my bacteria colony later. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

----------


## mincedmeat

2-3 hours should not be an issue as long as the media remains in the cannister that is filled with tank water for that duration.

----------


## jackychun

> 2-3 hours should not be an issue as long as the media remains in the cannister that is filled with tank water for that duration.


Thanks mincedmeat. Ya, the canister filter id filled with tank water during the power cutout. I feel peace in mind now. Thanks. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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## BFG

> Hi guys, may I know roughly how long the bacteria can survive when filter stop running? There is upgrading work in my HDB now and they will have power cut about 2-3 hours. I am worried that will affect my bacteria colony later. 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ask for the contractor to supply a power line into your home , I did that before and they accomodate my request .

----------


## jackychun

> Ask for the contractor to supply a power line into your home , I did that before and they accomodate my request .


Oh. That's a good idea. Thanks BFG! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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## RenesisTurbo

I am thinking of getting a pair of shut off taps for my Pro 3 600 just like what I have on my Ecco Pro 300.

Do most users fit the shut off taps on the Pro 3 models?Is it really necessary?

The C328 aunty told me there is no need to fit the shut off taps on the Pro 3 cos can just pull the hoses out during monthly servicing.

----------


## ACG

I thought of get the taps for my CO2 Atomizer 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

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## Urban Aquaria

> I am thinking of getting a pair of shut off taps for my Pro 3 600 just like what I have on my Ecco Pro 300.
> 
> Do most users fit the shut off taps on the Pro 3 models?Is it really necessary?
> 
> The C328 aunty told me there is no need to fit the shut off taps on the Pro 3 cos can just pull the hoses out during monthly servicing.


Both the Ecco Pro 300 and Pro 3 600 already come with their own in-built shutoff taps, you don't need to buy additional taps separately.

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## RenesisTurbo

So the function for controlling the outflow in the Pro 3 also serves as a form of a shut off tap?

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## Urban Aquaria

> So the function for controlling the outflow in the Pro 3 also serves as a form of a shut off tap?


Yeah, its essentially an integrated tap system to control the flow and also to shut it off completely, then you can unlock it and remove the entire adapter unit for maintenance.

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## RenesisTurbo

Hi,May I check if we have to replace the pieces of white wool and the prefilter sponge in our Eheim units from time to time?

I replace the white ones with those ownself cut pieces of aftermarket white filter wools every month during maintenance and have been using the original prefilter ones provided by Eheim.

The prefilter sponges had not been changed though.

I understand that we use tank water to wash the filter media during maintenance but what kind of water do we use to wash the white wool or prefilter sponges?

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## Urban Aquaria

> Hi,May I check if we have to replace the pieces of white wool and the prefilter sponge in our Eheim units from time to time?
> 
> I replace the white ones with those ownself cut pieces of aftermarket white filter wools every month during maintenance and have been using the original prefilter ones provided by Eheim.
> 
> The prefilter sponges had not been changed though.
> 
> I understand that we use tank water to wash the filter media during maintenance but what kind of water do we use to wash the white wool or prefilter sponges?


The white filter wool traps fine particles very well and its impossible to clean out all the dirt trapped inside it, therefore it has to be replaced regularly otherwise it just clogs up more and more. I also change them during every filter maintenance session too.

The pre-filter sponge is easy to clean completely and can be re-used many times, so its not necessary to change it unless its breaking apart. The pre-filter sponges in my filters have been in use for 3+ years and still okay. I only change them when they start to flake bits.

As for washing the filter media and sponges, you can also use dechlorinated tap water to wash them too.

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## jackychun

Hi All, may I know if the old bio media filter media effect the nitrate level in the tank? There was the time that nitrate level in my tank dipped to 0ppm and now it is measured about 40ppm+. Is this the sign to replace partially bio media filter? 


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## DreamerX5521

I guess if you are expecting nitrate level don't bounce back, then likely that:
- your plant consumed all nitrate as long as it is available
- you dont feed ur livestock so no poop/ waste
- ammonia/nitrite never converted to nitrate by the bb
- you are not dosing fert
What i'm trying to say seeing nitrate level shoot up should be normal and likely ur bb is working good. So why nitrate level bounce back again could indicate there has some change recently (provided u get 0 ppm nitrate consistently over a period of time).

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## Urban Aquaria

Yeah, old bio-media wouldn't be the cause of increasing nitrate levels, on the contrary it shows that the seasoned bio-media is working well and housing sufficient beneficial bacteria to convert all the excess ammonia into nitrates. If the bio-media wasn't working, you will see ammonia levels spiking up instead (which indicates not enough beneficial bacteria to do the conversion process).

Rising nitrate levels mainly indicate an accumulation of waste in the tank over time which generate ammonia and nitrates that the existing plants aren't able to use up as quickly as before, hence the gradual increase in nitrate levels. Its a typical effect in most tanks which have been running for a while. This is just a sign to clean the tank and filter more often, do more water changes, reduce bio-load/feeding and increase the density of fast growing plants to soak up the excess nutrients.

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## ryangiggs

Any recommendation for a prefilter for Eheim Pro 3 600 that will not affect the flowrate of the filter...?

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## jackychun

Thanks DreamerX5512 and Urban Aquaria for your advice. I might do more water change and filter cleaning in order to control Nitrate Level build up at higher level. 


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## RenesisTurbo

> Any recommendation for a prefilter for Eheim Pro 3 600 that will not affect the flowrate of the filter...?



I am using one for my Ecco Pro 300.But it can be also used for Pro 3 600.

Maybe you can go to Clementi Florist(C32​8 and ask for Eheim Prefilter(Model No: 4004320).Costs $19 apiece.

4004320.jpg

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## BFG

> Hi All, may I know if the old bio media filter media effect the nitrate level in the tank? There was the time that nitrate level in my tank dipped to 0ppm and now it is measured about 40ppm+. Is this the sign to replace partially bio media filter? 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It might be a cycle effect . Live rock in salt water tank has a cycle in the waste management area whereby at one point they are consuming the nitrate until they could not and it burp out the excess . A spike would indicate in a high level reading and the algae would consume it then . Reefer would sometimes notice a growth in algae volume but measuring using test kit might show only slight rise in the level . The algae growth is the indicator that the tank has excess nitrate . 

It is possible to keep a record of test kit reading from phosphate and nitrate level and deduce when the cycle peaked and lower . But its up to the dedication of individual to do it as the cons are the cost of test kit involved . Also , everything else must remain the same when you start on this path as changes in the tank might affect the test kit reading .


Hope this helps !

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## jackychun

Thanks BFG. My tank so far does not have algae issue. Touch wood. So I think it is more on control of feeding amount and water change regime to keep nitrate at desire level. One good thing is I do not need to dose extra Nitrogen in the tank for the moment. 


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## TheKiwi

> I am using one for my Ecco Pro 300.But it can be also used for Pro 3 600.
> 
> Maybe you can go to Clementi Florist(C32​8 and ask for Eheim Prefilter(Model No: 4004320).Costs $19 apiece.
> 
> 4004320.jpg


I've recently picked up one of these. They're quite good, especially in the tank where I feed zucchini and cucumbers to my plecos. Great at filtering out the larger pieces of wastes and food too 


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## RenesisTurbo

> I've recently picked up one of these. They're quite good, especially in the tank where I feed zucchini and cucumbers to my plecos. Great at filtering out the larger pieces of wastes and food too 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I wash the 2 pieces of sponges every week during water change though

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## RenesisTurbo

Asking this because I am curious.....

Someone recently blessed me with a full box of Pro 3 Eheim sponges which consists of a piece of blue and 4 pieces of white sponges.

Happened to look behind the box and there was a chart stating the intervals of when we should change the sponges and filter media.

The chart stated that we should change two thirds of the Substrat Pro,Bio Mech and Mech Pro every 12 months.

I have been running my Pro 3 for 2 years and Ecco Pro 300 for 1 year.Never replaced anything on those 2 units except the Mech Pro for Seachem Matrix and monthly change of white sponges.

Is it really necessary to change two thirds of the filter media every 12 months?

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## mincedmeat

Well, I would believe they state those information for the following reasons

- Aquarists don't rinse their filter media from the waste and muck that's build up and over time, any media would be ineffective
- As a business entity, better for consumers to come back to you regularly to buy filter media
- Instructions given are as such so that at least 1/3 of the bacteria colony remains and 2/3 of the waste are disposed, which should not hinder the efficacy of your filteer


I would recommend that on a yearly basis
- Remove your filter media and rinse them with your tank water to remove any waste/muck that might be present
- Wash your sponge filters with de-cholorinated water every 3 months. Change a new set every 12 months


In times of timeline and procedures, it may differ from some - since there are kiasu people, and then there are the kiasee people. You should decide the maintenance schedule based on your own personal schedule as well.  :Smile:

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## Urban Aquaria

Yeah, thats the strange part about different bio-media brands... some like Eheim will recommend to partially replace their Substrat Pro media every year, yet others like Seachem will state that their Matrix media no need to replace at all, can keep using for long term (personally i have been using and re-using the same batch of matrix bio-media in my various filters for the past 8+ years without issues). 

I guess it just depends on the brand recommendations and the user's preference.

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## mincedmeat

But if you do recall, Seachem's purigen has to be renewed every 6 months by bleaching...

UA, you wash your Seachem media during maintenance then?

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## Urban Aquaria

> But if you do recall, Seachem's purigen has to be renewed every 6 months by bleaching...


Seachem Purigen is considered more of a synthetic adsorption resin used as chemical filtration (rather than bio-media). Hence its designed to be recharged once "full", different usage from bio-media.




> UA, you wash your Seachem media during maintenance then?


Yup, i wash and rinse all my bio-media with old tank water during regular filter maintenance (usually every 3-4 months). That clears out most of the trapped dirt and debris that would otherwise clog up the media, yet still retains the majority of the beneficial bacteria living inside the media.

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## RenesisTurbo

Hi,I have 2 filters which are 2075 and 2236.

Filter arrangements for 2236 are...

Top tray-white filter wool
Eheim Bio Mech

Middle tray-Eheim Substrat Pro
Seachem Purigen

Bottom tray-Seachem Matrix

Media arrangements for 2075...

Top tray-white filter wool
Eheim Bio Mech

2nd tray-Eheim Substrat Pro
Seachem Purigen

3rd tray-Seachem Matrix

4th tray-Seachem Matrix

I am getting interested in Eheim Lav and considering the possibility of putting them in my 2236 and 2075.Which filter media do I need to phase out if I decide on putting the Eheim Lav in my filters?

Is the Eheim Lav good enough to replace any of the filter medias in my Eheims?

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## Urban Aquaria

> Hi,I have 2 filters which are 2075 and 2236.
> 
> Filter arrangements for 2236 are...
> 
> Top tray-white filter wool
> Eheim Bio Mech
> 
> Middle tray-Eheim Substrat Pro
> Seachem Purigen
> ...


Perhaps you can re-adjust your current tray arrangement for better efficiency.

Since those filter models you have run on a flow path from bottom up... the bottom tray should be the one which contains the eheim bio mech, since its more of a mechanical media designed to trap larger debris. The Seachem Purigen should ideally be placed at the top tray and on top of the fine white filter wool pad, so that only debris/particle free water flows through it (purigen only adsorbs dissolved organic compounds, its is not meant to trap visible debris and particles).

Just a quick reference chart on the recommended media arrangements on a 2075:



Photo from Google Images.

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## RenesisTurbo

So how should I arrange the filter media for the Ecco Pro 300?

Correct me if I am wrong about the arrangement for the 2075....

Top tray-Substrat Pro with Purigen pack and white filter wool.

Second and third tray-Seachem Matrix

Bottom tray-Eheim Bio Mech.

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## Urban Aquaria

> So how should I arrange the filter media for the Ecco Pro 300?
> 
> Correct me if I am wrong about the arrangement for the 2075....
> 
> Top tray-Substrat Pro with Purigen pack and white filter wool.
> 
> Second and third tray-Seachem Matrix
> 
> Bottom tray-Eheim Bio Mech.


Similar arrangement for the Ecco Pro 300...



Photo from Google Images.

Basically larger type media at the bottom, and progressively smaller and finer media in the upper trays.

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## BFG

That Bio Mech looks like a good media housing for marine copepod to thrive in !

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## RenesisTurbo

Ok thanks for your feedback on the filter media.

I wanted to fill up both my filters with a little more Bio Mech and Substrat Pro to make my filtering more efficient .Bought a 1 liter of each.It seemed Eheim Lav is quite unknown among a lot of Eheim users too.

How do I introduce the newly bought Bio Mech and Substrat Pro into both my filters?Can I put them into separate pails,add water and beneficial bacteria and leave them to soak in the pails for a few days before adding them during monthly filter maintenance?

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## Urban Aquaria

Just add the new bio-media into the filter, if replacing media just do it partially in stages. Make sure there is still enough seasoned media in the filter to maintain the cycle and seed the new media.

Soaking the new bio-media in a pail of water with some beneficial bacteria solution could work too, just make sure to add a pump or air stone to circulate and oxygenate the water. Beneficial bacteria usually grow better with good flow and ample oxygen.

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## RenesisTurbo

Ok thanks for your help,UA.

But may I know if soaking the bio media for eg 2-3 days is enough?

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## Urban Aquaria

> Ok thanks for your help,UA.
> 
> But may I know if soaking the bio media for eg 2-3 days is enough?


Well, 2-3 days isn't really much time for the actual long-term beneficial bacteria to establish, dosing bottled bacteria solutions can help but they are only short-term strains (hence the need to dose them regularly). Usually it takes a few weeks for bio-media to become properly "seasoned" with long-term natural bacteria colonies, as they multiply at a slower pace.

No harm soaking the bio-media though, at least they have a few days head-start in getting colonized by bacteria. It would be even better if you can transfer some of the existing old media in your filter into the soaking bucket, then the actual filter bacteria strains can start to colonize the new media too.

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## RenesisTurbo

Hi,can I just ask a question?

I filled my Ecco Pro 300 and Pro 3 600 with a little more Substrat Pro and Bio Mech over the weekend while doing monthly servicing.How do I know if I overfilled my trays with filter media?

I could lock/place all the trays and close the lids of both filters comfortably though.The outflow for both units are strong as usual after monthly servicing too.

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## BFG

I believe when the canister filter accumulate with the waste and such , knowing that you added extra media , will you see the effect when the flow start to slow down or decrease . As these waste by product start to fill in the gaps , lesser flow will get to pass through the blocked media .

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## Urban Aquaria

> Hi,can I just ask a question?
> 
> I filled my Ecco Pro 300 and Pro 3 600 with a little more Substrat Pro and Bio Mech over the weekend while doing monthly servicing.How do I know if I overfilled my trays with filter media?
> 
> I could lock/place all the trays and close the lids of both filters comfortably though.The outflow for both units are strong as usual after monthly servicing too.


If the flow is still strong then it should be okay.

That being said, its also possible for slightly overfilled tray systems to still have good flow at the start, as water will find a way to channel through available gaps in the trays (ie. the path of least resistance), even though the packed media may not have get much water flowing through them. Its when those few gaps get clogged up, then the flow rate will slow down much faster. So thats something to consider.

What i usually do with my canister filters is fill the media trays and close them up, then shake the trays to listen if the media can still rattle around inside. If the media can't move, then i remove abit of them and test until they can move around freely. This allows the loose media to shift according to overall flow path, so if paths are clogged, the media can shift and balance out to free up other paths. In this way, more of the media is used efficiently and the system doesn't clog up as quickly (and hence extend cleaning intervals).

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## jkcs

I have bought an used eheim classic 2215 which is over ten years old
1）is it normal for it to be noisy? (i just switched on to test the motor). 
2）when i switched off and shake the motor unit, there is no sound, so i can say the impeller is all ok (sorry new to canister）
3) I was told the canister needs to be primed and shake off trapped air, then it should be silent operation
4) how many litres of mechnical filter e.g mini type ceramic rings and seachem matrix will be nice? (seems like 2litres of matrix won't filled up the gap nicely.

Hope to hear from you guys soon, thank you

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## Urban Aquaria

> I have bought an used eheim classic 2215 which is over ten years old
> 1）is it normal for it to be noisy? (i just switched on to test the motor). 
> 2）when i switched off and shake the motor unit, there is no sound, so i can say the impeller is all ok (sorry new to canister）
> 3) I was told the canister needs to be primed and shake off trapped air, then it should be silent operation
> 4) how many litres of mechnical filter e.g mini type ceramic rings and seachem matrix will be nice? (seems like 2litres of matrix won't filled up the gap nicely.
> 
> Hope to hear from you guys soon, thank you


If you switch it on when dry without water, it will be noisy as the impeller is just loosely rattling around in the housing. Try not to run it dry as that can damage the impeller.

You have to properly prime the filter and make sure the canister is full of water, then switch it on to operate. It should run silently. You may hear abit of bubbling/rushing sound initially as it is clearing out the remaining air bubbles trapped in the impeller area. Gently shake the canister filter to help it exhaust out the trapped bubbles quicker.

A useful video for reference on how to prime the canister filter using the classic manual start-siphon method:




You can just put the outflow pipe over the tank after the siphon is started, so that water doesn't end up spilling on the floor.

As for the amount of media the Eheim 2215 can hold, based on listed specs it can contain up to 4 liters of filter media, so you probably need to get more media to fill it up. Take into account the coarse sponge and fine filter wool layers will also already take up some space too. Try not to over-stuff the canister too much as that will restrict and slow down flow, which will decrease the overall efficiency.

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## jkcs

> As for the amount of media the Eheim 2215 can hold, based on listed specs it can contain up to 4 liters of filter media, so you probably need to get more media to fill it up. Take into account the coarse sponge and fine filter wool layers will also already take up some space too. Try not to over-stuff the canister too much as that will restrict and slow down flow, which will decrease the overall efficiency.


Thanks Bro UA.  :Smile:  I am trying to aim for a perfect amount for both mech and bio media to fill up the container, do not want to have excess because i do not have the intention of getting more tanks. 

if i get too little, then it is very empty. so i am thinking 2lit of matrix, 500g of mech media plus the tray and sponge shld be nice. (I go and try)

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## TheKiwi

Thought I would drop by and share smth I recently learnt from a few German fish forums. Been trying it out for a few months and I'm sold. 

Water in Most of the eheim canisters flow from bottom upwards. The recommended media arrangement (assuming 3 trays) are as follows: 

(Bottom most) tray 1 = mechanical filtration [could be sponge or eheim' mech pro media] -> tray 2 = mechanical or bio media -> tray 3= bio media + white floss pad (top most)

However most German fish keepers do the following instead: they place the white floss pad above the mech filter media. So for example in my case where I use 1 mech + 2 bio media ratio, it is as follows:

(Bottom most) tray 1 = coarse sponge pad + white floss pad on top -> tray 2 = bio media (I use biohome) -> tray 3 = bio media (I use substrate pro + purigen on top (top most)

And I guess it makes sense. We know the general principle of having mechanical filtration before biological filtration. Moving the floss pad to the bottom most tray simply builds on that. 

Pros: 
- no reduction in fine filtration capacity 
- I find that my bio media in tray 2 and 3 stay significantly cleaner for a longer period 

Con:
- being at the bottom tray, it's more hassle if you wanna swap out just the floss pad. 
- just remembered another: I find that I need to wash out/replace the white filter pads more often. My guess is that in the usual arrangement, the bio media helps with some of the mechanical filtration, and so there's less to clog the floss pad. With the floss pad at tray 1, the floss pad has to do more of the mechanical filtration work. Although this results in more replacement/washing of the floss pad, this is accompanied by the second pro above. 

Sharing for info. Any thoughts appreciated!


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## happydanio123

Sorry to be such a party pooper but you know all these can be solved with a sump because it isn't a hassle at all to remove the white floss pad from a sump and generally in sumps you can have multiple layers of mechanical filtration before the biological and Chemical filtration (for me I use Malta, Coarse sponge and then white polyester floss) So I am replacing all my canister filter units with DIY sumps for the simple reason of convenience and flexibility. I know it is risky if the sump leaks but if you do a good job it can be an extremely rewarding system. 

Just sharing my ideas! 



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## TheKiwi

> Sorry to be such a party pooper but you know all these can be solved with a sump because it isn't a hassle at all to remove the white floss pad from a sump and generally in sumps you can have multiple layers of mechanical filtration before the biological and Chemical filtration (for me I use Malta, Coarse sponge and then white polyester floss) So I am replacing all my canister filter units with DIY sumps for the simple reason of convenience and flexibility. I know it is risky if the sump leaks but if you do a good job it can be an extremely rewarding system. 
> 
> Just sharing my ideas! 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk


Ah yes. I've been meaning to set up a sump or two. But space constraint limits me to canisters for the time being. Figured for the rest of us canister users, this is useful. 

Coincidentally, I was reading through GreatWave Engineering's guide, and check it out! Same thing!




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## skytan

Theoretically it is correct, but to most users it might not be the most feasible way. 
Sump users like me we just change/replace filter wool during every water change, but i am sure canister user won't be able to do that week in week out. 
Depending on the load, in 2 weeks you will be seeing a reduction in flow rate and strain will be on the motor.

Which is probably why ehiem arrangement of the media and the claims of you need to rinse the media after a few months

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## aquarius

@TheKiwi ~ You brought up a good point. I've thought about this before and as you yourself know, by putting the white filter wool in the bottom compartment, you'll clog up the filter faster. Actually the way manufacturers recommend on how to put the various medias in a canister filter is flawed because the right way is what you have suggested or done. Unfortunately the general recommendation by manufacturers causes the bio-media to be clogged up and needing it to be changed annually (depending on individual) cos the dirt/waste is not properly removed before flowing to the bio-media but this is also the best option given that this arrangement gives you a longer time interval between filter maintenance.

The best filter is a Sump but if space is a constraint than get an Overhead or a Hang-On-Back filter to use as a pure mechanical filter in addition to your canister. That way you just have to clean out the Overhead or HOB filter during your weekly/fortnightly water changes without having to constantly open up the canister.

My advice to fish hobbyists is to keep things simple so that your weekly/fortnightly maintenance is quick and simple, leaving you more time to relax and enjoy watching your fishes.  :Smile:

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## happydanio123

Totally agree.

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## tminus

> Theoretically it is correct, but to most users it might not be the most feasible way. 
> Sump users like me we just change/replace filter wool during every water change, but i am sure canister user won't be able to do that week in week out. 
> Depending on the load, in 2 weeks you will be seeing a reduction in flow rate and strain will be on the motor.
> 
> Which is probably why ehiem arrangement of the media and the claims of you need to rinse the media after a few months


I have a 2 feet tank and uses 2215. Now I added a prefilter and maintenance is a breeze. I dont even need to touch the 2215. 




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## gimhchng

Agreed. Using a prefilter definitely help in maintenance of canister. I'm using one similar to sunsun but transparent, the Taobao seller claim that it's from same manufacturer of sunsun, but sold under different name - Jia Lu. I'm using the "magic mat" as well, able to remove fine particle in water column.

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## jackychun

Hi All, does pre-filter reduce the flowrate remarkably? 


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## gimhchng

It does reduce the flow but hard to quantify it. I'm using 1500lph canister + prefilter for 3ft, just nice based on my observation.

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## hann

For eheim pro3, anyone encounters difficulty to remove the hose filter adapter from the filter head after using it for a few months? The unlocking mechanism is not as smooth as a new one. Whenever I want to was the filter media, it takes me a Long while to detach it after pushing the red button. Anyone has any remedy?

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