# Other Aquarium Forums > Equipment and Accessories >  Hailea HS series vs Arctica

## qngwn

Hi all,

Planning to get a chiller for my 2ft tank
It's placed in the living room, so i would love the chiller to be as quiet as possible..

Heard that the newer Hailea HS series is much quieter than the older HC series.
I've heard that Arctica is one of the quietest chillers of all time. (Never used before)

Well, you get what you pay for. However (the truth always hurts), i'm living off a tight budget, can squeeze for an Arctica, but Hailea will leave me with some spare cash for a rainy day..

So just a question,
Will the price difference of the chillers be worth the difference is noise level?

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## ZackZhou

If you are talking about noise level, hs series is quieter than Artica actually, just that not as efficient as Artica.

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## madscientist

> If you are talking about noise level, hs series is quieter than Artica actually, just that not as efficient as Artica.


Really? Wow

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## qngwn

Efficient as in energy consumption? Will it be as good if installed with an external probe .. 

Sent from my Dai Kor Dai using Tapatalk.

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## ZackZhou

> Really? Wow


That's my opinion, as I've used both Artica 1/10hp and hs-28a which is 1/10hp as well.

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## madscientist

What's their age?

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## ZackZhou

> Efficient as in energy consumption? Will it be as good if installed with an external probe .. 
> 
> Sent from my Dai Kor Dai using Tapatalk.


Efficient as in both energy consumption as well as effectiveness of the chiller. Hs 28a for me will kick in longer due to poorer air ventilation. As you would have know, the noise from the chiller are mainly caused by the fan operating to cool the chiller itself. Hs-28a is quieter as its fan are very quiet. 

Having a external thermomstat is good for the chiller only. As it kick in and kick out less frequently. 

One thing that I need to point out to fellow hobbyist is that the modding of the external thermomstat is good ONLY for the chiller itself and power consumption. I would say it is not very good for the highly sensitive livestocks. 
Let's say we exclude the noise, power consumption, I would definitely want my chiller to run as often as possible so that the temperature in the tank is able to maintain as little +- as possible. Early kick in and kick out happens to my hs-28a as well while I was using a 850L/hr cannister to run it, I'm happy with it as it keep the actual tank temperature +- 0.5 degrees only, with 15mins kick in and 35 mins kick out.

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## Shadow

Interesting point of view, i never think from that view angle.

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## ZackZhou

> What's their age?


I bought the hs-28a brand new while tw Artica was already a year old when I got it. Good question to ask as it seems to be unfair comparing them together. 

However, both chillers served me well over a year and I do notice any difference in noise level.

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## madscientist

> Efficient as in both energy consumption as well as effectiveness of the chiller. Hs 28a for me will kick in longer due to poorer air ventilation. As you would have know, the noise from the chiller are mainly caused by the fan operating to cool the chiller itself. Hs-28a is quieter as its fan are very quiet. 
> 
> Having a external thermomstat is good for the chiller only. As it kick in and kick out less frequently. 
> 
> One thing that I need to point out to fellow hobbyist is that the modding of the external thermomstat is good ONLY for the chiller itself and power consumption. I would say it is not very good for the highly sensitive livestocks. 
> Let's say we exclude the noise, power consumption, I would definitely want my chiller to run as often as possible so that the temperature in the tank is able to maintain as little +- as possible. Early kick in and kick out happens to my hs-28a as well while I was using a 850L/hr cannister to run it, I'm happy with it as it keep the actual tank temperature +- 0.5 degrees only, with 15mins kick in and 35 mins kick out.


I do not agree with you on this. Your specimens live in the tank, not in chiller. Having sensor in chiller will result in inaccurate readings. Chiller kick in more often with internal sensor simply because it is measuring small volume of water in an exchanger which is designed to transfer heat efficiently, it doesn't discriminate between heat in the water and heat from ambience. A tank has lager volume of water and is not designed for efficient heat transfer, hence the less frequent kick ins. More expensive brands of chillers have their sensor near inlet/outlet, explaining the lesser kick ins compared to cheaper brands. 

No point of very frequent kick ins when the temperature is reached, will only lower the temperature even more for no reason, harming specimens and wallet. 

If you want the best for your specimens, get a good external temperature controller with a highly sensitive sensor and set the kick in/out temperature to be exactly the same with an allowed deviation of temperature of 0.1 degree celcius or less.

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## Shadow

Will the 0.5-1 degree different affect fauna (Shrimps or fish) or in other world how many degree fluctuation can the fauna withstand?

I like plant more, so I never think from fauna point of view  :Opps:

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## madscientist

Less frequency and magnitude of changes, the better

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## qngwn

interested.. can write a thesis on chillers for aquarium..

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## Shadow

probably can if you are biologist, "The impact of temperature fluctuation to fish and shrimps well being"  :Laughing: .

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## ZackZhou

> I do not agree with you on this. Your specimens live in the tank, not in chiller. Having sensor in chiller will result in inaccurate readings. Chiller kick in more often with internal sensor simply because it is measuring small volume of water in an exchanger which is designed to transfer heat efficiently, it doesn't discriminate between heat in the water and heat from ambience. A tank has lager volume of water and is not designed for efficient heat transfer, hence the less frequent kick ins. More expensive brands of chillers have their sensor near inlet/outlet, explaining the lesser kick ins compared to cheaper brands. 
> 
> No point of very frequent kick ins when the temperature is reached, will only lower the temperature even more for no reason, harming specimens and wallet. 
> 
> If you want the best for your specimens, get a good external temperature controller with a highly sensitive sensor and set the kick in/out temperature to be exactly the same with an allowed deviation of temperature of 0.1 degree celcius or less.


Bro, I understand what you are trying to say. I would like to question a few things.
If my aim is to have the least deviation in main tank possible.
1. Isn't your way of using a ultra sensitive external thermomstat achieve the same results as my way of just using a hs-28a on its own? Both will kick in/out more often.

2. The reservoir inside the chiller won't get cooler and cooler, there is always new water coming in remember? 

3. There is no frequent kick ins when the temperature is reach.  :Smile:  yup, there shouldn't be since the temperature has already reached. The chiller will only kick in when the water flowing from the main tank exceeds the temperature set.

4. If we are talking about maintaining as little temperature difference as possible in a tank, a chiller using under flowrate cannister will definitely win a Artica/teco chiller, do you believe?

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## madscientist

> Bro, I understand what you are trying to say. I would like to question a few things.
> If my aim is to have the least deviation in main tank possible.
> 1. Isn't your way of using a ultra sensitive external thermomstat achieve the same results as my way of just using a hs-28a on its own? Both will kick in/out more often.
> 
> 2. The reservoir inside the chiller won't get cooler and cooler, there is always new water coming in remember? 
> 
> 3. There is no frequent kick ins when the temperature is reach.  yup, there shouldn't be since the temperature has already reached. The chiller will only kick in when the water flowing from the main tank exceeds the temperature set.
> 
> 4. If we are talking about maintaining as little temperature difference as possible in a tank, a chiller using under flowrate cannister will definitely win a Artica/teco chiller, do you believe?


I am not talking about cooler. When the compressor is not kicking in, heat will be gained from the exchanger faster than from the tank. That is why there's more frequent kick ins. Assuming a set point of 26, if the probe is in the exchanger, it may kick in when the exchanger temperature reaches 26, but your tank water will most probably be 25++. End up deviation from set temperature will be higher than external sensors.

Resun has sensor near exchanger, kicks in more often. Arctica has sensor near inlet / outlet, kicks in less often. Both brands with external sensor, kicks in even less often. That's assuming same heat load, ambience temperature and same chiller parameters and settings. 

I agree with you that the kick ins are frequent for both. The critical difference is the temperatures at which the kick ins and outs occurs. 

I do not understand question 4, hence I am unable to reply you

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## felix_fx2

Hi all,

So the basis to compare both models is before or after using external sensor.
Or including possible upgrades/modifications.

Very interesting view points.

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## qngwn

Sorry to interrupt the discussion ..

So... Am I correct to say that hailea hs series with good ventilation and external probe is better than Arctica of the same power? 

Sent from my Dai Kor Dai using Tapatalk.

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## madscientist

Better, no idea, depends on your criteria . External sensor is better for your wallet, tank and compressor

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## madscientist

> Hi all,
> 
> So the basis to compare both models is before or after using external sensor.
> Or including possible upgrades/modifications.
> 
> Very interesting view points.


That would depends on the criteria for the comparison

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## ZackZhou

> I am not talking about cooler. When the compressor is not kicking in, heat will be gained from the exchanger faster than from the tank. That is why there's more frequent kick ins. Assuming a set point of 26, if the probe is in the exchanger, it may kick in when the exchanger temperature reaches 26, but your tank water will most probably be 25++. End up deviation from set temperature will be higher than external sensors.
> 
> Resun has sensor near exchanger, kicks in more often. Arctica has sensor near inlet / outlet, kicks in less often. Both brands with external sensor, kicks in even less often. That's assuming same heat load, ambience temperature and same chiller parameters and settings. 
> 
> I agree with you that the kick ins are frequent for both. The critical difference is the temperatures at which the kick ins and outs occurs. 
> 
> I do not understand question 4, hence I am unable to reply you


I see. I got your point. You are trying to say that the main cause for the water to become warm is because the heat from the compressor, am I right? That's the reason why frequent kick in are caused. 

Great! You actually backed up my view by saying so.

"When the compressor is not kicking in, heat will be gained from the exchanger faster than from the tank" 
Ok I agree with this. 
Let's say the temperature set by chiller is 25 degrees. I cut off at 24.9 degree. We are talking about early kick in here. Later I'll talk about early kick out. 
Thus, let's assume that both water temp in main tank and chiller reservior are the same. Your theory of water heating up faster in the reservior than in main tank. Thus let take for example, the reservior had reached 26 degrees and start to kick in already, while the main tank's temperature is only 25.5degrees. From this, early kick in occurs. 

Let's move on. This time when the chiller kicks in, it only need to operate to cool 0.5 degrees before it kick out again. Thus am I right to say that I actually have a smaller deviation in temperature in the main tank?
Using say a chiller with in accurate reading will result in 24.9 to 25.5 - 0.6 degrees of temperature deviation.
While using a perfectly accurate chiller will result in 24.9 to 26 - 1.1 degrees difference. Am I right to say that? 



Madscentist, from the start I already said that I'm not talking about whether its good for the chiller or not, I said it might be good for the sensitive livestocks?  :Very Happy: 

Of course, someone will say this is bad for a chiller. However, let's say Artica is 3~4 times the amount of $$ more expensive than a china made hs series. 
Both of them comes with a year warranty. It means that Artica guarantees you a year of definite good service, with several more years of relatively good service. Hs china brand on the other hand gives you 3~4 years of definite good service! And you get to change new chiller every year! Think of this ways bro. Hahaha

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## ZackZhou

'No point of very frequent kick ins when the temperature is reached, will only lower the temperature even more for no reason, harming specimens and wallet. '

After reading your post again, I think I need to clarify that your view point is totally wrong. Frequent kick in WILL NOT lower the temperature for no reason. Don't believe, go try it.  :Very Happy:

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## madscientist

> I see. I got your point. You are trying to say that the main cause for the water to become warm is because the heat from the compressor, am I right? That's the reason why frequent kick in are caused. 
> 
> Great! You actually backed up my view by saying so.
> 
> "When the compressor is not kicking in, heat will be gained from the exchanger faster than from the tank" 
> Ok I agree with this. 
> Let's say the temperature set by chiller is 25 degrees. I cut off at 24.9 degree. We are talking about early kick in here. Later I'll talk about early kick out. 
> Thus, let's assume that both water temp in main tank and chiller reservior are the same. Your theory of water heating up faster in the reservior than in main tank. Thus let take for example, the reservior had reached 26 degrees and start to kick in already, while the main tank's temperature is only 25.5degrees. From this, early kick in occurs. 
> 
> ...


What i am trying to say is that the chiller reservoir temperature is different from your tank. 

It would be better since their internal temperature is not regulated like ours. It depends on how sensitive the specimen is. For corals especially, they have evolved in an environment that has extremely stable for hundreds years and more. Naturally, they depend on environmental parameters much more than us. 

My pocket not that deep, haha

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## madscientist

> 'No point of very frequent kick ins when the temperature is reached, will only lower the temperature even more for no reason, harming specimens and wallet. '
> 
> After reading your post again, I think I need to clarify that your view point is totally wrong. Frequent kick in WILL NOT lower the temperature for no reason. Don't believe, go try it.


Ya, it won't. If the sensor is not reading the tank temperature, but in a place where the temperature is different from the tank, would it kick in and out accurately? Let's say the difference in temperature in chiller reservior and tank is 0.5 deg. Tank is 26 deg. Set temperature is 26 deg. Reservoir temperature will be 26.5 deg. Chiller will kick in to reduce temperature. Which is kicking in for no reason since tank temperature meets set temperature!

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## madscientist

Sorry, didn't figure that by commenting on 1 paragraph, the discussion will be this long and deviate quite far

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## ZackZhou

> Chiller kick in more often with internal sensor simply because it is measuring small volume of water in an exchanger which is designed to transfer heat efficiently, it doesn't discriminate between heat in the water and heat from ambience.
> 
> 
> 
> If you want the best for your specimens, get a good external temperature controller with a highly sensitive sensor and set the kick in/out temperature to be exactly the same with an allowed deviation of temperature of 0.1 degree celcius or less.


after reading through again i really think that you got the whole concept wrongly. 

Firstly, an exchanger which is designed to transfer heat efficiently, it doesn't discriminate between heat in the water and heat from ambience. . this is totally wrong. compressor and the chiller probe is are a totally different place! 
Please refer to picture link attached to see how a chiller really looks like.
http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/uplo...1083178174.jpg

The 'exchanger' is tightly sealed and definitely made as less heat conductive as possible.

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## ZackZhou

> I do not agree with you on this. Your specimens live in the tank, not in chiller. Having sensor in chiller will result in inaccurate readings. Chiller kick in more often with internal sensor simply because it is measuring small volume of water in an exchanger which is designed to transfer heat efficiently, it doesn't discriminate between heat in the water and heat from ambience. A tank has lager volume of water and is not designed for efficient heat transfer, hence the less frequent kick ins. More expensive brands of chillers have their sensor near inlet/outlet, explaining the lesser kick ins compared to cheaper brands. 
> 
> No point of very frequent kick ins when the temperature is reached, will only lower the temperature even more for no reason, harming specimens and wallet. 
> 
> If you want the best for your specimens, get a good external temperature controller with a highly sensitive sensor and set the kick in/out temperature to be exactly the same with an allowed deviation of temperature of 0.1 degree celcius or less.





> Ya, it won't. If the sensor is not reading the tank temperature, but in a place where the temperature is different from the tank, would it kick in and out accurately? Let's say the difference in temperature in chiller reservior and tank is 0.5 deg. Tank is 26 deg. Set temperature is 26 deg. Reservoir temperature will be 26.5 deg. Chiller will kick in to reduce temperature. Which is kicking in for no reason since tank temperature meets set temperature!


hai.. you make me want to explain early kick in again`~~!! 
how would it be that the reservoir temperature will heat 26.5 when the main tank temperature is only 26??? there is a flow remember? 
if the main tanks water temperature is 26 degrees, it will flow in and make the reservoir temperature lower~~ 
then you said the reservoir temperature is 26.5, then it will flow out to the main tank at temperature of 26.5 right? then i will heat up the main tank water!

look at the components of a chiller, after understanding you will not give such reasoning.

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## ZackZhou

> Sorry, didn't figure that by commenting on 1 paragraph, the discussion will be this long and deviate quite far


nothing to worry about imo, as the thread is about chillers. i do think that people will want to know how chillers actually work, and being able to understand the concept of kick-in/out will definitely let them have a clearer picture of what to look out for in future.

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## madscientist

> after reading through again i really think that you got the whole concept wrongly. 
> 
> Firstly, an exchanger which is designed to transfer heat efficiently, it doesn't discriminate between heat in the water and heat from ambience. . this is totally wrong. compressor and the chiller probe is are a totally different place! 
> Please refer to picture link attached to see how a chiller really looks like.
> http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/uplo...1083178174.jpg
> 
> The 'exchanger' is tightly sealed and definitely made as less heat conductive as possible.


Noone will put the probe in the compressor, haha. An exchanger cannot be sealed, if it is sealed, how is it going to exchange heat?

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## ZackZhou

some picture of internal design of hs-28a:

http://maxbee.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/p1020753.jpg
http://maxbee.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/p1020755.jpg
http://maxbee.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/p1020766.jpg
http://maxbee.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/p1020764.jpg

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## ZackZhou

> Noone will put the probe in the compressor, haha. An exchanger cannot be sealed, if it is sealed, how is it going to exchange heat?


arh.. sorry. i thought you are referring to the reservoir. my apologies.  :Smile: 
viewing from iphone. hahaa

you are referring the exchanger as this if i'm not wrong? 
http://maxbee.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/p1020764.jpg

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## ZackZhou

hi ts, i cannot seem to find a detailed picture of artica chiller. thus, i include a teco chiller inbuild for you. you can compare the amount of space and the size of the heat exchanger and the fan used. you should have a clearer picture of what are you paying for.  :Very Happy: 
Hs-28a:
http://maxbee.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/p1020755.jpg

Teco:
http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/uplo...1083178174.jpg

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## madscientist

> hai.. you make me want to explain early kick in again`~~!! 
> how would it be that the reservoir temperature will heat 26.5 when the main tank temperature is only 26??? there is a flow remember? 
> if the main tanks water temperature is 26 degrees, it will flow in and make the reservoir temperature lower~~ 
> then you said the reservoir temperature is 26.5, then it will flow out to the main tank at temperature of 26.5 right? then i will heat up the main tank water!
> 
> look at the components of a chiller, after understanding you will not give such reasoning.


The exchanger/condenser exchanges heat from the water to compressor, am I right?

Heat will flow from hot to cold. There's currently no one way valve for heat. Once compressor stops working, heat will enter from the ambience to the water. Simply because the water is cooler than ambience 

0.5 deg is rather exaggerating. I know it is flowing, that is the problem. Heat from the pump and the temperature difference in the reservior do add up. 

If it flows out at 26.5, ya, it would, the volume that flows out is small compared to the tank volume. It is not instant that your chiller cools down your water, same applies to the heating. People with large tank and small sump frequently have this problem of transferring the cold water from the sump fast enough to cool the tank, they will experience premature kicking out.

If you have a sump and 2 controllers, try this. Connect 1 controller sensor to chiller. Connect the other sensor to tank. Once kick out of chiller occurs, look at the temperature difference between the 2 sensors. 

The chiller reservior and tank temperature difference is just a smaller scale version of the big tank small sump. Remember, your chiller reservior is just another sump. Which temperature do you measure for your tank temperature? The tank or the sump?

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## ZackZhou

Madscentist, once again. you fooled me into believing you that you know what is actually happening right now. 

'Chiller kick in more often with internal sensor simply because it is measuring small volume of water in an exchanger which is designed to transfer heat efficiently, it doesn't discriminate between heat in the water and heat from ambience.'

the heat exchange is by a metal piece of rod in the chiller. something like this. how can a SMALL volume of water be inside an exchanger??!!
http://maxbee.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/p1020764.jpg


please, look at the picture !!! 
http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/uplo...1083178174.jpg

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## madscientist

> arh.. sorry. i thought you are referring to the reservoir. my apologies. 
> viewing from iphone. hahaa
> 
> you are referring the exchanger as this if i'm not wrong? 
> http://maxbee.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/p1020764.jpg


Both? Most manufacturers (cheap brands) would put probe in reservior if I am not wrong. Not much difference since they are very near each other and water floows through both constantly, unless you hook return pump to controller. 

I am actually planning to hook my return pump for my chiller (if I am using a dedicated return pump for them) to the controller so that when chiller is off, so is the pump. Trying to minimise heat loss via exchanger and heat gain from pump. 

Of course, controller sensor will be placed in tank

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## ZackZhou

mad scientist, do you know what inside your chiller, everywhere the water flow through will heavily insulated? Thus the heat emitted by the compressor and heat exchanger will be negligible.

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## madscientist

> mad scientist, do you know what inside your chiller, everywhere the water flow through will heavily insulated? Thus the heat emitted by the compressor and heat exchanger will be negligible.


I know. To tabk, it is negligible, to a reservior that's of small volume, it is enough for the precision of your sensor to trip the controller. 

You can always try switching off the return pump and measure the time for drop of 0.1 deg vs the tank. I know you would say the return pump will be on while in normal operation. 

You can always compare the temperature of the tank and the chiller sensor simultaneously. Let me know if the temperature of both when the kick in occurs is the same.

I have done both before with the same brand and model of sensor

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## ZackZhou

> I know. To tabk, it is negligible, to a reservior that's of small volume, it is enough for the precision of your sensor to trip the controller. 
> 
> You can always try switching off the return pump and measure the time for drop of 0.1 deg vs the tank. I know you would say the return pump will be on while in normal operation. 
> 
> You can always compare the temperature of the tank and the chiller sensor simultaneously. Let me know if the temperature of both when the kick in occurs is the same.
> 
> I have done both before with the same brand and model of sensor




okok. i get that you are trying to prove now if the heat from the compressor will affect the water or not. the answer is yes. to whuch certain degree, i dont know.
i am very tired typing all these already.. mentally tired. hahaha. i think i'll just stop here. since i have included inner pictures of the chillers, i believe people who have a better understanding of what a chiller would look like inside and operate.  :Very Happy:

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## madscientist

> okok. i get that you are trying to prove now if the heat from the compressor will affect the water or not. the answer is yes. to whuch certain degree, i dont know.
> i am very tired typing all these already.. mentally tired. hahaha. i think i'll just stop here. since i have included inner pictures of the chillers, i believe people who have a better understanding of what a chiller would look like inside and operate.


haha, there's a reason why there's lesser kick ins by using external sensor instead of internal. If it's the same, that wouldn't have happened and reputable brands like jbj arctica and tunze would't sell external temperature probes and controllers? This is also why GEX, the new boy in chiller town, is using external temperature probes.

Even though I do not have enough data to show that the heat gain from the chiller is substantial, the less kick ins should provide sufficient evidence.

Even if there's zero difference, I would rather place my sensor in the tank than in the chiller as I believe my specimens live in the tank, not chiller. I would naturally want to base the control of the temperature based on the temperature near/next to my specimens. Would you measure PAR/PUR or light intensity just below the light set or as near the base of tank as possible?

If you are those parameter perfectionist, similar to me, I will place the probe in my tank, not in my sump or chiller, be it there's a difference in the readings from those places.

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## xiaofeng90

Great topic finally i know how a chiller work and kick in/out . Don't mind if i were to ask Resun compare with Hailea Hs series which is better ?

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## madscientist

I trust hailea more than resun. I heard of many more problems from resun than hailea, I also noticed a lot of people selling their resun with external probe because the internal probe spoilt. I used to have a 2nd hand hailea for 1 of my experiments. not that bad, just heavy and slightly noisy. of course, invest in chillers. don't scrimp on it. it's not about cheap enough to replace. it's about your specimens. Especially for marine reef tanks, the cost of replacing the specimens is much more than the chiller. I have seen chillers from many brands, ranging from dailea, pac cool, resun, hailea, arctica, teco and many more, failing and crashing the tank. That's why I am connecting artica to a teco in series to minimise this issue. If budget permits, I am going to get teco's e.chill (a fan) to backup the system.

My advise is, if you have expensive/valuable specimens, hook up a few brands in series for safety. If you don't really bother if the chiller fails or not, I am wondering why you asked the question? For that case, price will be the prime determinant, get the cheapest chiller.

opps, I talked too much tiill server crashed, sorry, :P

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## Shadow

Actually the reason chiller kick in and out often is because the chiller chilled the water inside the small chamber faster than it can be replace by warm water from the tank. 

For example, your tank water is 26C your chiller set to 25C. the chiller will cool water to 25C faster due to the chamber small volume, the sensor which is in the small chamber pick it up and turn OFF the compressor. However a few minutes later all the cool water inside the chamber are all replace by warm water from the tank. The sensor pick it up and turn ON the compressor. That is why the issue can be solve by increasing the flowrate.

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## BFG

If you guys are worried of providing a stable temperature for your livestock and are afraid of temperature fluctuation, keep the chiller run in and out temperature difference of 1 degree celsius. For my own experience, my compressor chiller start operating at 27 degree celsius and stop at 26 degree celsius. My rubber coated copper coil will hold the coldness a little longer and the temperature might drop to 25.8 degree celsius after the chiller has cut off at 26 degree celsius. I have a 4ft marine tank. Livestock can get accustom to the temperature you provided but up to a certain point. If you introduce a cold water species to our local tank water temperature range, that livestock is doomed to perish. The best thing is to do your own research and find the limit you can afford to arrived at. Always meet the needs of the livestock you want to have first.

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## madscientist

I am going to run with a start stop temperature difference of 0.5 deg. I know of 1 reefer who's having a 0.1 deg difference, surprisingly chiller still surviving after many years.

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## ZackZhou

> Actually the reason chiller kick in and out often is because the chiller chilled the water inside the small chamber faster than it can be replace by warm water from the tank. 
> 
> For example, your tank water is 26C your chiller set to 25C. the chiller will cool water to 25C faster due to the chamber small volume, the sensor which is in the small chamber pick it up and turn OFF the compressor. However a few minutes later all the cool water inside the chamber are all replace by warm water from the tank. The sensor pick it up and turn ON the compressor. That is why the issue can be solve by increasing the flowrate.


I think the same way as well.  :Smile:

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## madscientist

> I think the same way as well.


I believe a better solution is to place the sensor out from the chiller and into the tank. Can also save power from driving a more powerful pump for the higher flow rate.

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## ZackZhou

> I believe a better solution is to place the sensor out from the chiller and into the tank. Can also save power from driving a more powerful pump for the higher flow rate.


Okok. Put in tank better. We were just talking about the concept whereby a early kick out and kick in would have occurred. shadow's reasoning is actually more mainstream thinking IMO. There are several threads in aq with similar reasoning.

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## qngwn

Sorry to ask.. What about teco compared to hailea hs? 

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

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## bibu5

Hi, I know this is a rather old thread, but I was searching for this topic. So what's the conclusion, hailea hs is better or artica is better. Let's say we only comparing 1/10hp models

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## chazrt

Arctica chillers are generally more silent as well. I had a Hailea prior to my Arctica and it was like night and day.

Arctica also has pretty good warranty during the first year. They come to your place to service for free.  :Smile:

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