# Killies Import > Planted Tanks >  green spots

## csteven

Hi everyone,
Just fed up with cleaning the green spots stain on the aquarium glass.
Any easy way of getting rid of it?
certain parts of the aquarium has this grean algae. Try cleaning with sponges, brushes but it won't come out.. not all of it.

How do you get it out??? sand paper?

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## keehoe

Hi Steven, i am a lazy person. I use horn snail. I bought 5 ramhorn and 2 horn snail when i had that problem. Took the cleaning crew 2 days to clean up my tank. It was real messy after i plug 6 root monster into gravel of 2 feet tank.

If you prefer manual method. Go to those 2 dollar shop and look for "green cloth". Use mainly to clean bowl/plate. But some use those as filter media also. I think it is quite safe. Just make sure it is brand new with no detergent/ leftover dinner on it.

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## Green Baron

Horn snails and Zebra snails are useful for removing spot algae from hard to reach areas but they are not effective if there is a major outbreak. 
For that I use a Pen-knife blade. One or 2 swipes will remove most of the algaes. I find brushes and sponges not very effective.

You can control spot algae by ensureing there is sufficient level of Phosphate in you tank.

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## FC

I use the common white filter wool. Need a bit of muscle but it is completely safe (will not cause scratch to glass). Avoid the green scotch pad, used for washing utensil, it contains hard material which will leave permanent marks on the glass. To reduce the hard work, first clean the glass with the magnet aided cleaning pad. It helps to remove the less stubbon ones. I stuck the filter wool to such pad.

It is impossible to eradicate such algae. The best way to reduce such algae is:
1) direct the light away from the glass walls
2) reduce dosing iron and keep the PO4 in good range (0.5~1.0 ppm)
3) avoid laying too much base fert and have thicker top clean gravel layer
4) keep fish load/feedings low

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## budak

I find credit cards quite effective.

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## PeterGwee

Not impossible. Look into the nutrients especially PO4 and CO2. Limitation in nutrients is not the way. Making sure they are available in abundance and then focusing on the CO2 is the way to go in growing plants.

Regards
Peter Gwee

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## csteven

so need to scrap the glass with some tough material. 
Can i use a lighter to burn it?  :Smile: . will it come out?
off cause after taking out the fishes and water.

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## FC

Hi Peter,

Are you saying algae on the glass can be eliminated totally and the glass can be totally free from such nuissance? I have never seen a tank like that and I once thought that it was possible. I tried many ways but failed. I concluded that the glass algae will not live on pure water but it is supported by nutrients from base fert, fish food, fish waste, fertiliser, etc. And not being able to have planted tank without one or more of them, I conceded that I am fighting a loosing battle.

If you have a way, that's a great news! How to and what stop the glass algae?

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## damnit

I find that keeping PO4 in good range around 1ppm is a great way from the green spot algae from appearing at all.

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## PeterGwee

> Hi Peter,
> 
> Are you saying algae on the glass can be eliminated totally and the glass can be totally free from such nuissance? I have never seen a tank like that and I once thought that it was possible. I tried many ways but failed. I concluded that the glass algae will not live on pure water but it is supported by nutrients from base fert, fish food, fish waste, fertiliser, etc. And not being able to have planted tank without one or more of them, I conceded that I am fighting a loosing battle.
> 
> If you have a way, that's a great news! How to and what stop the glass algae?


Freddy, you need to make sure your nutrients are non-limiting (not even one single thing or else it will slow down the entire plant uptake) first before going about focusing on the CO2. EI is a great way to go about making sure that all the nutrients are in good amounts and non-limiting. Now, add CO2 such that it is at around 30ppm throughout the photoperiod. Note the bubble rate required to hit the 30ppm. Add a bit more than the current bubble rate (eg 1bps now...add 1.1-1.2bps) and note the plant and critter response for that entire day (you need to make sure you are around the whole day when you do this.). Keep doing this between every 4-7 days till you hit the point where the fish start to act weird or gasp (breathe harder than normal) and then back off to the last known safe point. Another thing is to have some surface movement...poor plant growth (little to no pearling) plus low O2 from not moving the surface water will make a very bad combo for the fish.

The GS should not come back once you remove it and correct the conditions. Greendust is a bit different than greenspot though. (Are you getting the dust or the spots only?)

Regards
Peter Gwee  :Wink:

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## FC

> Greendust is a bit different than greenspot though. (Are you getting the dust or the spots only?)


I am not refering to growing plant but all glass algae like spot and especially green dust. Spot can be controlled but I find green dust not possible to eradicate.

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## PeterGwee

Freddy, the greendust just swims around and reattaches to the glass after a while. It does not grow at that break-necking speed that folks seems to think so. You need to scrub it off and hurry with a very large water change to remove those floating around in the water or just drain the tank real low and then wiping off the greendust off the tank wall with a paper towel and toss it away after each wipe. Keep attacking it several times a day for a couple of days and it should kill it off good. (Its pretty much like duckweeds which you need to remove constantly to eradicate it.)

Regards
Peter Gwee  :Wink:

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## FC

Hi Peter,

Few years back, that's what I thought and did. I even use UV light after those water changes but to no prevail.

Have you won over this "battle"? Are your tanks' glass walls totally free from algae and need no scrub at all? That's what I am refering to and wish to acheive.

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## PeterGwee

Yup.  :Very Happy:  Its really work but they do give up if you keep up on removing them.

Did you do the scrubbing job plus water changes back to back in say an hour or so after the first? Do it a couple of times...switch the filter before scrubbing and hurry up with the water change. Wait for a while and do it again. Repeat it 2-3 times and if you wish, you can do a blackout. A UV does help as it will kill off those floating around. Keep attacking....scrub the glass even if it seems clean.

Regards
Peter Gwee  :Wink:

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## Chuah CS

Hi I'm Chuah from Kuala Lumpur. I'm a novice in aquatic plants and do need a lot of adivce from you guys in future. This forum has helped me a lot in growing moss. Really appreciate it.  :Very Happy:  

Ya, I have the green spot algae in my 4ft tank also and i'm cleaning it every 3~4 days using magnetic brush but not so effective. Some stubborn algae refuse to go.  :Sad:  Will try the method suggested by Peter.

How to dose phosphate to eliminate green spot algae? How to ensure sufficient dosage of phosphate? Anymethod to measure?

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## csteven

Guess what... i took out one of the ceramic ornaments covered in the green stuff and zapped it with a lighter... Threw it back into the tank after cooling period. I think it has lesser green stuff...or its it my imagination.
oh well, will try with another ornament....

i like playing with fire....  :Smile:

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## FC

Hi Chuah,

I would appreciate if you could enter your name into your "Profile" "Signature". It would make your future post easier.




> How to dose phosphate to eliminate green spot algae? How to ensure sufficient dosage of phosphate? Anymethod to measure?


I answer your last question first:
- Monitor the PO4 level with PO4 test kit.
Your 1st and 2nd:
- Keep the PO4 anywhere between 0.5~2.0 ppm would do.

Note that you need balanced fertilization too. That would mean to include all other fertlizers like traces, NPK, Mg, Ca and CO2. It sounds complicated but you can learnt it quite easily once you grasp the regime concept and consumption trend of the plants.

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## Chuah CS

Hi Freddy,

Thanks for the advise. I'm currently using Dennerle A1, S7, E15, V30 & Gold 7 & Dennerle Depont mix as base fert. If I maintain the PO4 between 0.5~2.0 ppm, can the green spot algae be reduced or eliminated?

My lighting is around 3w/g.

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## FC

Hi Chuah,

Welcome to the forum!

You must had spent a fortune to use Dennerle. It is a very good product in my observations and friends' experiences. Few weeks back, I changed by base fert to Dennerle Depont mix. I experienced boom in spot algae on the glass walls. So, I can testify that the spot algae were supported by it. Lately, I am very lazy on my tank due to hectic workload, so, I have not seriously tackle it yet.

However, based on my past experiences with spot algae, it has something to do with:
1) strong light
2) excess traces, like iron.

For 1), it is a bit difficult as strong light is benificial to good plant growth. You may attempt to direct the light away from the glass walls and tape up the light tube ends.

For 2), take note of the sources like base fert, dosing and fish food/wastes. We normally tackle here to reduce spot algae, actions like:
a) have thicker clean gravel over the base fert (about 1.5~2 inches)
b) reduce the dosing (not stop dosing) traces and/or dose in less frequency, like once a week.
c) reduce feeding
d) add macro-nutrients like NPK, Ca, Mg, CO2 to encourage the plants' uptake of the excess traces

The reason why PO4 was emphasis is because PO4 is often the deficiency in the tank which upset plants.
Note: N is easily found in fish waste, K is often included in commercially packed fertiliser (like E15), Ca & Mg come naturally from drinking water and CO2 - you injected it. Fish waste contains PO4 but not in sufficient proportion.

Since plants need balanced "diet" to continue their normal growth, I often rely on 3 test kits:
1) KH
2) PH
3) PO4

1) & 2), of course, is to provide indication of (not measurement) the CO2 concentration.
3) one kit to monitor the nutrient uptake of the plants. Why/how? If P04 is found to be low, things are going and I just have to add. If the dosed PO4 stay un-consumed, it tells me other nutrients are not in tune.

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## Chuah CS

Hi Freddy,

Thanks for the good advise. Currently I have the KH & PH Test kit, will buy the PO4 test kit to find out the level of PO4.

I detected many matted hair algae on my weeping moss since monday. Last night I carry out 100% water change and just add anti chlorine, without any trace element and liquid fert. Thereafter, I off all the light & inject CO2. 

I plan to reduce my lighting period from 10 to 6 hrs and the lighting from 3w/g to a lower level (Follow the instruction posted in other thread)

Is it good enough to remove the hair algae? Currently, I only have 1 oto in my 4ft tank as I hv taken out the SAEs and Yamato shrimps. I intend to put in Flying fox to get rid of the hair algae but dunno whether they are moss eater or not.

Sigh.......  :Crying:

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## FC

> ... just add anti chlorine, without any trace element and liquid fert. Thereafter, I off all the light & inject CO2. 
> I plan to reduce my lighting period from 10 to 6 hrs and the lighting from 3w/g to a lower level...


You should not inject CO2 during blackout. Somone (I think Tom Barr) suggested adding KNO3 (about 10ppm) will help too. Blackout is very effective but you have to do it for 3 days.
Timebomb is very good removing algae, he uses black molies. And it works. They do not eat the mosses too.

I guess your setup is new, how old is it?
For new setup, it is a good practice to start slow. Shorter light period, 6 hrs. Then, increase 0.5 hr a week till you reach 8 hrs. After your tank had stable down and you gained confidence, increase it slowly to 10 hrs.

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## timebomb

Chuah,

I'm not sure of the Flying Fox but SAEs and Yamato shrimps eat mosses. They don't eat the old leaves but they will chew off new growth. To eradicate Hair algae, use Black Mollies. They're one of the most useful fish around. Besides Hair algae, they also eat Black Brush but only the new growth. Black Mollies are also very good for clearing surface scum. It's incredible what they can do to clean up the tank.

If you can't find Black Mollies around your area, fish like Platies, Guppies and Barbs are also good for getting rid of Hair algae. But I personally prefer Black Mollies because they're kind of cute.

Loh K L

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## PeterGwee

> Hi Freddy,
> 
> Thanks for the good advise. Currently I have the KH & PH Test kit, will buy the PO4 test kit to find out the level of PO4.
> 
> I detected many matted hair algae on my weeping moss since monday. Last night I carry out 100% water change and just add anti chlorine, without any trace element and liquid fert. Thereafter, I off all the light & inject CO2. 
> 
> I plan to reduce my lighting period from 10 to 6 hrs and the lighting from 3w/g to a lower level (Follow the instruction posted in other thread)
> 
> Is it good enough to remove the hair algae? Currently, I only have 1 oto in my 4ft tank as I hv taken out the SAEs and Yamato shrimps. I intend to put in Flying fox to get rid of the hair algae but dunno whether they are moss eater or not.
> ...


The length of the photoperiod is fine, you don't need to lower it (Doesn't help with the algae.). If you want, you can lower the intensity as long as the light is well spread out. (lower intensity helps because the nutrient and CO2 demands are lowered...not because you limit algae. It doesn't matter if you have good nutrients and high CO2. It just makes it more robust and gives you more room for error in case you forgot to dose.)

Focusing on what grows plants is what you really seek to do. Stopping or lowering the nutrient dosing is not going to help them but weaken them. You cannot never limit algae! Work on the N, P, K, GH, traces and CO2 (biggest nutrient) and go in to attack the algae via manual removal. Trim off plants that are infected (don't wait...a minor infection is easier to clear than a major one). Always do a large water change (50-80%) after you work on the tank.

Regards
Peter Gwee

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## Chuah CS

Hi guys,

The algae still exists after my first action.

Will try out the method suggested and let you all know the outcome.
Really appreciate your advise.

Thank you.

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## hammy

I reckon spot algae isn't as hard to get rid of as compared to Stag Horn. What about the latter? Is there anything I can do about it?

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