# Planted Tanks > Aquascaping >  JadeIceGreen's Sanzon Iwagumi

## JadeIceGreen

After being inspired by Jervis and EvolutionZ, I decided to have my first go at the hugely popular iwagumi scape too.  :Smug: 

Of all iwagumi styles, I chose the Sanzon Iwagumi style, here is a short description of it.

"The most common iwagumi style is called sanzon iwagumi. Sanzon means "three pillar" in Japanese and these aquascapes make use of three rocks, with two smaller rocks and one larger rock. According to the Japanese Architecture and Art Net Users System , this term was first used in the 11th century Japanese garden treatise "Sakuteiki." The grouping of stones comes from Buddhism; the central stone is called the _chuusonskei_ (or the big Buddha) and the smaller flanking stones are called _kyoujiseki_ (or attendant stones). The _kyoujiseki_ are often tilted or pointed towards the _chuusonskei_ as if bowing down to it. The _chuusonskei_ is almost always positioned according to the Golden Rule."

Credits goes to http://www.aquatic-eden.com/2007/02/...aquariums.html, http://www.aisf.or.jp/~jaanus/deta/s/sanzoniwagumi.htm.


Here are some pictures of my setup.

My tank is an exact replica of ADA Mini M, 36cm x 22cm x 26cm (5mm) made by N30, very good quality and workmanship with minimal silicon. A blue mat that was supplied by N30 is also used to evenly distribute the weight of the tank. 



One problem with a tank of this specifications is that normal light sets that are made in 30cm, 45cm, etc spans will not fit, they also look bulky as the tank width is only 22cm and a light set will easily take up half the width. Also, light sets under 60cm are usually "weak" in output as they lack the T5 option. 

My main criteria for my light set is to be sleek and powerful, I wanted something in the 20+ wattage range. I enquired about ADA's Mini Solar http://www.adana.com.sg/productsPage/ada_lighting.html, and it cost a whooping $440 so that was out of question. I finally settled for Arcadia which in my opinion is one of the best light makers out there. So I bought 3 Arcadia Arc Pod (9 watts) and they look great!  :Grin:  Incidentally, 27 watts is the same wattage as ADA's Mini Solar, and I can assure you, they are extremely bright!  :Cool: 







One of my dream items have always been a mini lily pipe set from ADA but for now, they are still out of my reach and so I am using eheim instead. And yes I know, we all hate the green tubes.  :Razz:  I always wondered why eheim dun sell optional transparent inlet and outlet tubes, I bet alot of us would get them and they are unbreakable too!

----------


## Jervis

> After being inspired by Jervis and EvolutionZ, I decided to have my first go at the hugely popular iwagumi scape too.


Me again?  :Laughing:  I'm a real bad influence  :Exasperated: 

3 Arcadia? Now that's a lot of firepower for a 26cm height tank. Let me guess... Jap hairgrass? HC?  :Grin:

----------


## craftsman

Very nice so far Bro!  :Well done:  Why don't you consider ANS's glass Lily pipes? A pair of inflow and outflow lily pipes would set you back just about under 7 red notes.  :Grin:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Me again?  I'm a real bad influence 
> 
> 3 Arcadia? Now that's a lot of firepower for a 26cm height tank. Let me guess... Jap hairgrass? HC?


Wah bro, you scary leh, reply so fast..  :Grin: 

Yeah, alot of us following your lead, so why not do something challenging like an awesome 10 feet planted tank then we cannot follow?  :Laughing: 

I am going to go for 27 watts first as recommended by Takashi Amano, good thing is that if its overpowering, I can just remove one of them. For plant types, that will be in a future update, but can guess lah, iwagumi only restricted to those few plants.

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Very nice so far Bro!  Why don't you consider ANS's glass Lily pipes? A pair of inflow and outflow lily pipes would set you back just about under 7 red notes.


Thanks bro!

I dun know if you call me a perfectionist but if I am going to buy glassware, I am going to go for ADA. So I rather save up and get them at a later stage, also ADA was the ones that started it, so I want to use the original as the flow created by the lily pipe will be different. But this is just me!  :Wink:  I know that there is nothing wrong with ANS stuffs.  :Smile:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

Here is an update.

My chiller for my 20l tank is Taiwanese brand I've never seen before. I was assured by Ben from Petmart that it is better than Resun CL280, being quieter and lesser heat output. They have also been using it for their riccia tank for a few years. Petmart has earned my trust since the beginning of my aquarium hobby and so I had no problems buying this lesser known brand. 

For those that happen to own this chiller as well, perhaps you would like to share your experience with us.  :Smile: 


The chiller compared to the size of my tank





The chiller comes with an extra transformer which nicely sits on top of it saving space.





I can't wait to get this baby running.  :Grin:

----------


## blue33

Wow another new setup to look forward to.  :Grin:  Btw 3X9W(Arcadia) ≠ 27W(ADA), reason the point of single tube intensity is different, the end result maybe be different.  :Smile:

----------


## Shadow

The chiller seems to be Peltier type instead of compressor type.

----------


## André Grassi

Its equipment is spectacular. Congratulations on whim. Certainly that tank is going to be incredible. You can tell where you purchased this chiller? paid and how much? One of these would be perfect for my marine of 58 liters.

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Wow another new setup to look forward to.  Btw 3X9W(Arcadia) ≠ 27W(ADA), reason the point of single tube intensity is different, the end result maybe be different.


Wow, I didn't know that! Well, that is something I've learnt today. Hopefully the plants grow as nicely as a single tube.




> The chiller seems to be Peltier type instead of compressor type.


What is the difference? If I am not wrong, it is a compressor type, anyway, I am heading back to petmart tomorrow to get more details on the chiller as so many are asking about it.  :Smile: 




> Its equipment is spectacular. Congratulations on whim. Certainly that tank is going to be incredible. You can tell where you purchased this chiller? paid and how much? One of these would be perfect for my marine of 58 liters.


Thanks for your compliments!
I'll let you know after I get more details about the chiller.  :Smile:

----------


## vwsj84

Its a thermoelectric chiller. TEC... no compressor

http://www.cblue.com.tw/english/cs049%20eng.htm

Don't mind can u ask the guy who sold u this how much does he think the power bills for running the chiller 24/7 for a mth will amount to? Thanks  :Grin:

----------


## Shadow

Thermoelectric chiller isn't as efficient as compresor chiller but it is quite. So if noise is importan that it is a good choice.

You can search wiki for more info on peltier or theroelectric cooling

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Its a thermoelectric chiller. TEC... no compressor
> 
> http://www.cblue.com.tw/english/cs049%20eng.htm
> 
> Don't mind can u ask the guy who sold u this how much does he think the power bills for running the chiller 24/7 for a mth will amount to? Thanks


Oh! Great job at finding the website! I will let you all know tomorrow.. watch out for an update!




> Thermoelectric chiller isn't as efficient as compresor chiller but it is quite. So if noise is importan that it is a good choice.
> 
> You can search wiki for more info on peltier or theroelectric cooling


Hmm, that means my bills will be higher?  :Crying:  Thank God its a small tank!  :Jump for joy:

----------


## craftsman

> Oh! Great job at finding the website! I will let you all know tomorrow.. watch out for an update!
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm, that means my bills will be higher?  Thank God its a small tank!


Bro... side question on the chiller. approximately how much you paid for it? Is it cheaper than the compressor type?  :Grin:

----------


## Shadow

> Hmm, that means my bills will be higher?  Thank God its a small tank!


I can't say for sure because it is also depend on the start-stop. What I mean by start-stop is the chiller will stop operating when the target temp reached and start again when it is off by certain degree. This is based on compressor chiller. I'm not sure about Thermoelectric chiller, never try  :Razz: .

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Bro... side question on the chiller. approximately how much you paid for it? Is it cheaper than the compressor type?


Pmed you the price.




> I can't say for sure because it is also depend on the start-stop. What I mean by start-stop is the chiller will stop operating when the target temp reached and start again when it is off by certain degree. This is based on compressor chiller. I'm not sure about Thermoelectric chiller, never try .


So looks like I'll be the scapegoat.  :Opps:  lol

----------


## JadeIceGreen

For all those awaiting details on the chiller, Petmart has emailed their supplier for more information and I will post it here once it is known. For the cost, please PM me. Thanks for your patience.



And here is an update on my filtration system. 


ADA uses Eheim 2211 for both their Mini S and Mini M (my tank size), so I am using Eheim 2211 too. Eheim is an awesome brand in my opinion, I know of friends who have used the same filter for 5 years without having to change the impeller or O ring, and if you change them, your filter can last another few years without problem, so its well worth the extra cost as it will be cheaper in the long run. German research, design and workmanship is amazing to say the least.

I chose the classic version over the newer Ecco filters because I believe in a design with no basket system. This will ensure more complete filtration and is in part confirmed by how ADA filters are also not equiped with baskets. But how effective this is, I think no one will ever know.  :Razz: 

Another good think about the classic range is its backwash function, so there is no need to even remove the filter media. I love it!  :Jump for joy: 

Alright enough talk, I see people yawning liao, heh, here is my filter setup. 



The bottom of the filter, water enters from the hole at the six o clock position.



German thoughfulness and planning here, a plastic strainer thingy to ensure that your filter media do not cover the base of the filter and thus preventing uneven water flow. 



Eheim blue pre-filtering pad to trap the larger debris. This part is known as mechanical filtration.



Biological filtration is the most important part of the filter, and this article from http://www.aquajournal.net/na/notes/index.html best describes it. 

"Ammonia that is generated from fish waste and dead leaves of aquatic plants is highly toxic. In high enough concentration, fish and shrimp are poisoned and killed. Nitrifying bacteria multiply in a filter and convert toxic ammonia to nitrite (NO2) and then to non-toxic nitrate (NO3). Thus organic matter is converted to inorganic matter and the water is purified. Not only bacteria but also a large number of protozoa colonize filter media. Protozoa mainly pray on bacteria and other protozoa. For example, if disease-causing bacteria that infect fish try to multiply, as long as the filter is functioning well, they are eaten by protozoa and the rate of disease outbreak is reduced. The microorganisms in a filter play an important role in natural ecosystems as well. They are the “decomposers” at the bottom of the ecosystem pyramid. A biological filter is an important part of Nature Aquarium that supports its basic concept of a small ecosystem where fish, aquatic plants, and microorganisms coexist and its environment is stabilized through a system similar to the one in nature." 

I am using ADA's Bio Rio as my biological filter. 





As the first month of the aquascape is a crucial one in which plants are still recovering from planting, chemical filtration is very important to remove all excess nutrients that the plants do not use to prevent algae. I am using Eheim's Aktiv Carbon.





A fine Eheim filter pad goes next to prevent fine debris from going back into the tank.



Another plastic strainer thingy right at the top.



Eheim 2211 holds about 1 litre of filter media. For the first one month, I will be running 500ml of Bio Rio and 500ml of Eheim Aktiv Carbon. For the second month, I will then run 750ml of Bio Rio and 250ml of Eheim Aktiv Carbon. And hopefully from the third month onwards, 1 litre of Bio Rio.

To help jump start nitrifying bacteria in my Bio Rio, I will be adding Seachem Stability.

----------


## Shadow

Does 2211 have a media tray like 2213? I don't really like media tray because all the dead leave can come out via the gab between tray and filter wall. From the photo, does look like have a tray.

----------


## ghim

Eheim 2211 and 2213 has basically the same design. The filter media tray is "plastic strainer thingy" that JadeIceGreen mentioned. Wont the dead leaves be stopped by the filter pads and media? I don't see much gap for the dead leaves to flow through.

I am using 2211 and 2232. 2211 has little to no gap, whereas 2232 has a huge gap between the media basket and the filter.

Can PM me where to get the light set and the price for the chiller?

----------


## blackBRUSHalgae

> Eheim 2211 and 2213 has basically the same design. The filter media tray is "plastic strainer thingy" that JadeIceGreen mentioned. Wont the dead leaves be stopped by the filter pads and media? I don't see much gap for the dead leaves to flow through.


Bigger pieces will get stuck at the plastic strainer, but eventually will degrade and disintegrate over time.

----------


## Shadow

> Eheim 2211 and 2213 has basically the same design. The filter media tray is "plastic strainer thingy" that JadeIceGreen mentioned. Wont the dead leaves be stopped by the filter pads and media? I don't see much gap for the dead leaves to flow through.
> 
> I am using 2211 and 2232. 2211 has little to no gap, whereas 2232 has a huge gap between the media basket and the filter.
> 
> Can PM me where to get the light set and the price for the chiller?


my 2213 is different design, the media basket have handle that can be take out together with the media. So the small/thin leave will be able to sip through the gap between the media basket and filter wall.

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Eheim 2211 and 2213 has basically the same design. The filter media tray is "plastic strainer thingy" that JadeIceGreen mentioned. Wont the dead leaves be stopped by the filter pads and media? I don't see much gap for the dead leaves to flow through.
> 
> I am using 2211 and 2232. 2211 has little to no gap, whereas 2232 has a huge gap between the media basket and the filter.
> 
> Can PM me where to get the light set and the price for the chiller?





> Bigger pieces will get stuck at the plastic strainer, but eventually will degrade and disintegrate over time.





> my 2213 is different design, the media basket have handle that can be take out together with the media. So the small/thin leave will be able to sip through the gap between the media basket and filter wall.


The current 2213s that you buy from your LFS, unless it is a super old model, comes with filter baskets as seen here, http://www.aquatic-eden.com/2007/03/eheim-2213.html.

The plastic strainer found inside 2211 will not get the chance to stop big debris that can't pass through it as the pre-strainer at the inlet tube would have stopped it as its holes are smaller.

----------


## Shadow

yup that is the one. I prefer without that one. Typically on my 2215 and 2217, I put coarse wool at most bottom followed by fine wool and ceramic ring/biohome. That will stop almost anything except water of course  :Laughing: .

----------


## ADA SG

> Eheim 2211 holds about 1 litre of filter media. For the first one month, I will be running 500ml of Bio Rio and 500ml of Eheim Aktiv Carbon. For the second month, I will then run 750ml of Bio Rio and 250ml of Eheim Aktiv Carbon. And hopefully from the third month onwards, 1 litre of Bio Rio.
> 
> To help jump start nitrifying bacteria in my Bio Rio, I will be adding Seachem Stability.


Hi JadeIceGreen,

Please remember not to let the bag dry up as if you noticed when you took out the bag, it is abit moist in there. This is because there are already bacteria on the volcanic stones. It is also for this reason that the instruction sheet reminds users not to wash the media in their first use.

The classic series of the Eheim canister is the most popular choice by ADA for their small tanks. For their own canister filters, it follows the same design, but a more powerful motor. This design ensures that water must only flow through the filter media and not through other avenue as mentioned by Shadow.

Really looking forward to your scape.

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Hi JadeIceGreen,
> 
> Please remember not to let the bag dry up as if you noticed when you took out the bag, it is abit moist in there. This is because there are already bacteria on the volcanic stones. It is also for this reason that the instruction sheet reminds users not to wash the media in their first use.
> 
> The classic series of the Eheim canister is the most popular choice by ADA for their small tanks. For their own canister filters, it follows the same design, but a more powerful motor. This design ensures that water must only flow through the filter media and not through other avenue as mentioned by Shadow.
> 
> Really looking forward to your scape.


Thanks for following ADA SG. Btw, I'm Isaac, always bugging you guys with emails.  :Grin: 

What about my balance Bio Rio that I do not intend to use yet? How do I keep them? Can I moist them de-chlorinated water and zip lock them? And thanks for the heads up!

----------


## JadeIceGreen

Here is another update.  :Smile: 

For my substrate, I decided to go pure ADA. 

Base Substrate - Power Sand S.
Base Substrate Additives - Clear Super and Bacter 100.
Main Substrate - Aqua Soil Amazonia II
Top Substrate - Aqua Soil Amazonia II Powder.



Power Sand is first laid as the base substrate. The purpose of power sand is to encourage the growth of bacteria at the very base of your substrate. As we can't use a gravel cleaner without ripping out our beautiful foreground  :Shocked: , the base substrate is ADA's solution to ensuring that organic waste is broken down by these bacteria and retaken up by the plants roots as food.





Clear Super and Bacter 100 is then sprinkled upon the Power Sand. 
They basically help to maintain the substrate in a good condition over an extended period of time by supporting microorganisms to flourish. 





Aqua Soil Amazonia II is then added and top with Aqua Soil Amazonia II Powder. 





All in all, I must say that I'm very impressive by ADA substrate. I've used other Japanese brands before and ADA comes across as the most natural. It is almost believable that they went to the river and scoop the substrate out and pack for you as the grain size are all different with different types of stuff inside too. I see natural stones, and other natural stuff that I dun know the identity of, exactly what you would find by scooping up soil right by the river side. 

The soil was also easy to scape and push around, even when I placed my heavy main stone over the Aqua Soil Powder, none of them broke apart. So at this point, really top marks from me. But the true test comes later at planting, initial water saturation and plant growth.

Stay tuned for the next update where I actually will start planting!  :Razz:

----------


## Shadow

I suggest you make slope, it will create imaginary depth

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> I suggest you make slope, it will create imaginary depth


I will do that when I set up the hardscape in my next update. Thanks for the suggestion!  :Smile:

----------


## Cloud-Strife

can i know what item u use as the base for your tank?
it seems like you are using styrofoam as the background, a black piece of "thing" as the base layer to support your tank weight.

----------


## blue33

Wah so many good stuff on it, ADA some more.  :Knockout:   :Blah:

----------


## Jervis

Show us your scape please  :Smile:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> can i know what item u use as the base for your tank?
> it seems like you are using styrofoam as the background, a black piece of "thing" as the base layer to support your tank weight.


What I use is a foam base that was provided by the tank maker. You can use a cheap styrofoam base or an expensive one like ADA Garden Mat.




> Wah so many good stuff on it, ADA some more.


Good stuff also no use if the scape sucks.  :Crying:  So hopefully I can do justice to the equipment.




> Show us your scape please


Next update.  :Smile:

----------


## ADA SG

> Thanks for following ADA SG. Btw, I'm Isaac, always bugging you guys with emails. 
> 
> What about my balance Bio Rio that I do not intend to use yet? How do I keep them? Can I moist them de-chlorinated water and zip lock them? And thanks for the heads up!


Oh. Hi Isaac. Nice to see you on the forum.
Just tie it up with a rubber band.

Like Robert suggest, remember to create the appropriate slope. Even if it is open space in the scape, the slope will create the imaginary depth.

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Oh. Hi Isaac. Nice to see you on the forum.
> Just tie it up with a rubber band.
> 
> Like Robert suggest, remember to create the appropriate slope. Even if it is open space in the scape, the slope will create the imaginary depth.


I will. And thanks for the tip on how to store Bio Rio.  :Smile:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

Just a very short update but what everyone has been waiting for.

----------


## Zenislev

Erm...active carbon for planted? Thought that will actually take away nutrients from your usual fertilization?

----------


## blue33

> Just a very short update but what everyone has been waiting for.


It looks loose to me, like 3 joysticks to me. There's no support rocks to loosen the fall effect.  :Confused:  IMO

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Erm...active carbon for planted? Thought that will actually take away nutrients from your usual fertilization?


I will be dosing daily at t he start of the photo period so the activated carbon will remove the extras, but not what the plants need. 




> It looks loose to me, like 3 joysticks to me. There's no support rocks to loosen the fall effect.  IMO


The fall effect is what I was aiming at, "tension" but I dun know if you see it that way. Sanzon Iwagumi is to use three rocks of different sizes to play against one another, no support rocks are suppose to be added. It looks weird now, but the plants will tie everything together. I think that is the beauty of Iwagumi, the rocks can't do without the plants, the plants can't do without the rocks, everything comes together to present a unified scape.

----------


## JadeIceGreen

For those awaiting the details of the chiller.

Standby mode, 5 watts and under.
Medium Mode, 120 watts.
Strong Mode, 180 watts.

Hope this helps.

----------


## Shadow

where do you get the rock from? do they still have stock?

----------


## EvolutionZ

> The fall effect is what I was aiming at, "tension" but I dun know if you see it that way. Sanzon Iwagumi is to use three rocks of different sizes to play against one another, no support rocks are suppose to be added. It looks weird now, but the plants will tie everything together. I think that is the beauty of Iwagumi, the rocks can't do without the plants, the plants can't do without the rocks, everything comes together to present a unify scape.


 
great explaination. you really did your homework before attempting a scape.  :Well done:  :Wink:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> where do you get the rock from? do they still have stock?


I got my rocks from http://www.mizuworld.com/index.php?t...t&group_id=188. 




> great explaination. you really did your homework before attempting a scape.


Thanks for the compliment Evo.  :Smile:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

Another Update.  :Smile: 

The substrate is sprayed down with water to wet the surface first before introducing water into the substrate. This prevents the surface from running when the rest of the substrate gets wet, thus not spoiling your scape.







Water is then added slowly via an air tube till it reaches the top of the substrate. This helps in planting as a saturated substrate is easier to plant when compared to a dry one. Also, do not fill up the whole tank until planting is done.





I am a firm believer of how everything contributes to a scape. Equipment, plants and design all are part of a scape, not just what is in the tank. As with the theme of Sanzon Iwagumi, 3 rocks, 3 layers of soil, 3 types of plants, 3 lights and 3 glass tubes (eventually) leading into the tank. Takashi Amano stresses the importance of odd numbers in an Iwagumi scape. Odd numbers are pleasing to the eye and an Iwagumi scape is one of calm tension and zen, where everything is balanced aganist one another in a unified peace.

My foreground plant, Glosso.

----------


## Shadow

> I got my rocks from http://www.mizuworld.com/index.php?t...t&group_id=188.


Mind telling me which one is your tallest rock? Also can you measure the leght and with of your tallest rock?  :Wink: 

Thank you

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Mind telling me which one is your tallest rock? Also can you measure the leght and with of your tallest rock? 
> 
> Thank you


Hey Bro, my biggest rock is the M size, its 15cm tall.

----------


## ghim

Glosso! If this batch don't grow well or you don't have enough, let me know. Mine are overgrown :Opps:  Need to trim before CNY.

You can actually plant them alittle deeper. The direction of the cut joints will determine where they will start growing.

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Glosso! If this batch don't grow well or you don't have enough, let me know. Mine are overgrown Need to trim before CNY.
> 
> You can actually plant them alittle deeper. The direction of the cut joints will determine where they will start growing.


Thanks for the offer! And I'll take note of your suggestion.  :Smile:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

Update again!
More photos, less talk!


Planting is done! Foreground filled with Glosso, and the background a mix of Eleocharis parvula and Eleocharis Vivipar. 





You can see the three layers of substrate.





Water is being filled out slowly through an air tube, all 20 litres.





This was shot immediately after the water was filled up, the filter is not connected to the tank yet. This proves that ADA substrate does not cause your water to turn muddy, as alot of people have been saying, I guess it all depends on your care when first filling your tank with water.







Now the hard part, gonna see how it grows. I will update you guys, starting tomorrow morning, on water parameters that I will be taking on a daily basis.

----------


## blue33

> ...This was shot immediately after the water was filled up, the filter is not connected to the tank yet. This proves that ADA substrate does not cause your water to turn muddy, as alot of people have been saying, I guess it all depends on your care when first filling your tank with water....


There is a reason behind why Amazonia II will not cloud as compare to Amazonia I, for some reason ... which is bad.  :Knockout:

----------


## craftsman

Very very nice Bro! Hope to see more updates soon, especially your thoughts on how your chiller is running, water temperature, fauna, etc.  :Grin: 




> Update again!
> 
> Now the hard part, gonna see how it grows. I will update you guys, starting tomorrow morning, on water parameters that I will be taking on a daily basis.

----------


## craftsman

> There is a reason behind why Amazonia II will not cloud as compare to Amazonia I, for some reason ... which is bad.


Wah.. Adrian, so serious ah?  :Grin:  So u think Amazonia II must ad extra ferts?

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> There is a reason behind why Amazonia II will not cloud as compare to Amazonia I, for some reason ... which is bad.


Hmm, from what I know, Amazonia II is exactly the same as Amazonia I except that it is supposed to bring down your PH more than Amazonia I. I dun think there is any nutrient difference between them. But I may be wrong so we will have to wait for ADA SG to reply or any other bros that know what is the difference.  :Smile:  




> Very very nice Bro! Hope to see more updates soon, especially your thoughts on how your chiller is running, water temperature, fauna, etc.


Thanks Bro for your compliment, will be updating every day.  :Smile:

----------


## Shadow

here we go, the different between Amazonia and Amazonia II

----------


## ADA SG

> I dun think there is any nutrient difference between them. But I may be wrong so we will have to wait for ADA SG to reply or any other bros that know what is the difference.


Isaac, this is supposed to be your aquascaping thread. Not a ADA answer session.  :Laughing:  But anyway, will answer the differences.

Amazonia II was designed to fix the problem of yellow water and/or cloudy water observed by many hobbyists. This problem was found to be due to tap water with high pH values causing precipitation of the nutrients in the Amazonia I soil.

So to rectify the problem, they changed the formulation of the soil. Less organic material is added into the soil during the processing chain. Comparing the nutrient level, Amazonia II has lower amounts compared to Amazonia I, according to ADA Japan.

Now for the scape, we would suggest planting more glosso. This will increase the speed which the lawn will be formed and also provide more plant mass.

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> here we go, the different between Amazonia and Amazonia II


Thanks bro for that! Very interesting..  :Smile: 




> Isaac, this is supposed to be your aquascaping thread. Not a ADA answer session.  But anyway, will answer the differences.
> 
> Amazonia II was designed to fix the problem of yellow water and/or cloudy water observed by many hobbyists. This problem was found to be due to tap water with high pH values causing precipitation of the nutrients in the Amazonia I soil.
> 
> So to rectify the problem, they changed the formulation of the soil. Less organic material is added into the soil during the processing chain. Comparing the nutrient level, Amazonia II has lower amounts compared to Amazonia I, according to ADA Japan.
> 
> Now for the scape, we would suggest planting more glosso. This will increase the speed which the lawn will be formed and also provide more plant mass.


Sorry about that!  :Razz:  We are not clear on ADA's soil and you are the best authority to answer them.

Thanks for the tips about the glosso, I am gonna cut some of the longer ones that have grown out of the original leaves I have planted and replant them.

----------


## StanChung

Hi Isaac,

I read this thread with great interest and you have done your homework.

I find Iwagumi Sanzon is very strict and perhaps too severe for some. The three stones look good but I do feel the main stone should have a wider base to reach out to the 2nd largest stone. I suggest you move the main stone slightly to the right and tilt it down slightly. [or cheat with a small piece to fill the gap!]  :Grin: 

You might also want to consider the view from the top. Right now the smallest and biggest stone are arranged almost in a row. It would perhaps be better to move the smallest stone closer to the front.

As for the plants, it as ADA Sg says, plant denser and you will get faster results as the tank stabilises. I'm wondering if HC would be better suited to this size tank as the leaves are smaller and would give a slightly bigger illusion of depth.

So sorry to comment so much and ignore if you don't agree. I hope you succeed in your vision for this tank. All the best!  :Smile:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Hi Isaac,
> 
> I read this thread with great interest and you have done your homework.
> 
> I find Iwagumi Sanzon is very strict and perhaps too severe for some. The three stones look good but I do feel the main stone should have a wider base to reach out to the 2nd largest stone. I suggest you move the main stone slightly to the right and tilt it down slightly. [or cheat with a small piece to fill the gap!] 
> 
> You might also want to consider the view from the top. Right now the smallest and biggest stone are arranged almost in a row. It would perhaps be better to move the smallest stone closer to the front.
> 
> As for the plants, it as ADA Sg says, plant denser and you will get faster results as the tank stabilises. I'm wondering if HC would be better suited to this size tank as the leaves are smaller and would give a slightly bigger illusion of depth.
> ...


Hey Stan,

What you have mentioned is all true. The main stone's base is a little too thin but so far I'm okay with it as I wanted a sharper looking rock. I do agree that the gap between the first and second stone is too wide, however I did it this way so that it will be come a secondary focal point with that space. I am hoping the plants will grow well in that gap fill it up. I can't move any hardscape now as everything is planted and I do not want to disturb the soil, so that is sad.  :Sad: 

I am also starting to see why glosso may be a bad idea as its leaves may not be small enough. I have quite a bit of growth so I am gonna cut off some of the glosso that have grown runners and replant them.

In spite of all my mistakes, I've learnt a lot from everyone's valuable comments and I believe my next iwagumi will be better. I will continue to go forward with this current scape and lets see where we end up at. Exciting!  :Jump for joy:  :Grin:

----------


## Jervis

> In spite of all my mistakes, I've learnt a lot from everyone's valuable comments and I believe my next iwagumi will be better. I will continue to go forward with this current scape and lets see where we end up at. Exciting!


That's the spirit  :Smile:  Never stop trying  :Grin: 

Your patience in planting the individual Glosso plantlet is admirable  :Shocked:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

Another update!

Alright, this update is all about what I've been doing as daily maintenance for the last three days since planting was completed, my fert regime and more equipment details so if you are interested, read on!  :Grin: 


My daily fert regime consist of ADA Green Brightly Step 1 and ADA Brightly K. I have used these liquid ferts before and I swear by them, in my opinion, ADA's ferts are the best of all ADA products.

Green Brightly Step 1 is for a scape from it infancy to 3 months of age. Its main purpose is to provide in sufficient quantity, trace elements, in a balanced manner to promote and encourage young plants to grow.

Brightly K mainly provides potassium that is used in conjunction with Green Brightly Step 1. It also serves a secondary function as a neutralizer for chlorine but I'm not sure if it does also for chloramine so I am still using seachem prime as my primary water conditioner. 

Both ferts are dosed at 1ml daily.



My chiller runs about 8-9 hours a day and I have set it at the 180 watts setting. Temperature hovers between 24.3 and 25.8 and my electrical bill will be about 10 to 12 dollars a month extra. Ironically, if my tank was double in size, I may actually use less electricity due to the fact that 20 litres, being of such a small amount of water, picks up heat rapidly when the chiller is on standby.



Inlet and outlet pipes are placed in such a way that forms an effective current around the whole tank eliminating dead spots. CO2 is dispensed via a glass diffuser and is placed under the outlet to ride the water current at its strongest. 



Another spot to place a CO2 diffuser is directly across the outlet on the other side of the tank. I could not use this spot as my drop checker is placed nearby and in a small tank like mine, its not recommended to place your CO2 diffuser on the same side of your drop checker as the readings will not be accurate.

For the first few weeks, I will be overdosing CO2 as there are no fauna yet. Current dosage is 1.5 bubbles per second.



I test for PH, GH, KH, NO2 & NH3/NH4 on a daily basis. It helps me judge when my can fauna arrive, my filter's status and if I need to do more water change. I personally feel that for 20 litres, it is imperative that testing must be done regularly as the worse can happen within a few hours. I usually test 15 mins before the end of my photo period, this gives an accurate result on the outcome of the plants' work for the day just before they go to bed.  :Smile: 


Day 1 Readings
PH – 6.0
GH – 10
KH – 2
NO2 – 0.25
NH3/NH4 – 8


Day 2 Readings
PH – 6.2
GH – 10
KH – 3
NO2 – 0.25
NH3/NH4 – 8


As you can see, GH readings are super high because of the extra CO2 that I am pumping in, Ammonia readings are incredibly scary but its common just after two days. PH has risen by 0.2. 6 litres of water is changed everyday after the photo period to remove the day's extra nutrients.


As I am writing this, its day 3 and a few more hours to the next testing. But what I am happy is that so far, there is no algae and hopefully it stays this way. The amount of algae will be a real test as to how effective the 500ml of activated carbon that I have in my filter is. 2ml of Seachem Stability is also added at each water change to help establish my biological filter.










Glosso has shown growth after 3 days but all the growth have been leggy. I know that everyone has said that 3 x 9 watts will be enough but I keep thinking about bro blue33's insight that a 27 watts light set is different when compared to 3 x 9 watts lightsets although wattage is the same. So, I went back to petmart today and got another 9 watts, so its now 36 watts. Hopefully this will keep the glosso down and if its too much light, I can always remove the extra 9 watts. 


I will be purning all the extra leaves that have grown on top of the original ones that I planted and will replant them, making my lawn denser by artificial methods as some bros have wisely adviced me. Thanks to all for that!


All in all, I am quite pleased with the growth after 3 days.

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> That's the spirit  Never stop trying 
> 
> Your patience in planting the individual Glosso plantlet is admirable


Thanks Bro! Means alot.
I am always very encouraged by you when you try out so many different scapes with all those superb equipment. You are my hero!  :Jump for joy:  :Grin:

----------


## Jervis

WOW!!! 4 Arcadia Arcpod!!! You're the winner!!!

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> WOW!!! 4 Arcadia Arcpod!!! You're the winner!!!


Not as nice as your ATI.  :Grin: 
Anything to make my glosso grow low and nicely.

----------


## Shadow

Enought light and it will grow low.

----------


## ghim

Planting glosso is always back-breaking.

I don't think is the light issue. I have recently planted some glosso in my 1ft cube - after my HC failed to grow. I do agree HC fits better than glosso for nano tank. I am using 18W PL light. The glosso are growing nicely.

From the way it looks, your glosso are still changing from emerse to submerse form. Once you see them growing horizontally, which will be in a week's time, uproot, cut away the initial batch and replant the rest. 

If they grow vertically, don't try to push them down only. Must be hardworking, uproot, cut, replant.

The other reason maybe, you never plant deep enough. For me, I plant till it shows half to 2/3 the leaflets. All the rest are in the substrate. Your's are showing more than the leaflets.

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Enought light and it will grow low.


Yeap, 36 watts should be more than enough.  :Smile: 




> Planting glosso is always back-breaking.
> 
> I don't think is the light issue. I have recently planted some glosso in my 1ft cube - after my HC failed to grow. I do agree HC fits better than glosso for nano tank. I am using 18W PL light. The glosso are growing nicely.
> 
> From the way it looks, your glosso are still changing from emerse to submerse form. Once you see them growing horizontally, which will be in a week's time, uproot, cut away the initial batch and replant the rest. 
> 
> If they grow vertically, don't try to push them down only. Must be hardworking, uproot, cut, replant.
> 
> The other reason maybe, you never plant deep enough. For me, I plant till it shows half to 2/3 the leaflets. All the rest are in the substrate. Your's are showing more than the leaflets.


Hey Bro, very good tips and guidelines from growing glosso. Thanks so much! I will follow your suggestions closely.  :Jump for joy:

----------


## Shadow

> Yeap, 36 watts should be more than enough.


for your tank height, should be enough. I have 1.5ft with 1.2ft height and glosso grow tall under 36W, I end up put 2x36W.

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> for your tank height, should be enough. I have 1.5ft with 1.2ft height and glosso grow tall under 36W, I end up put 2x36W.


I cannot add anymore lights even if I want to, my tank rim has no more space left. lol.  :Razz:

----------


## StanChung

Hi Isaac,

I once upon a time did all this testing, including for Fe as well but decided that it was easier to eyeball the plants.  :Grin: 
Your hobby ethic and journal is admirable. :Well done: 

I think 36W is just nice for glosso in a 1ft nano to grow nicely.
For those that use less light I suspect you may have ambient light to help along because anything less have always looked leggy. This is also the same reason I set the photoperiod during the day. For viewing at night I just turn it on. 

A little OD on CO2 is ok but if the pH dips too low, your filter bacteria would have problems multiplying. 
The water should be crystal clear by now. In about 4-6 days you can add an oto, yamato to help clean up some debris. It is recommended that you only dose Step 1 when you see the plants starting to grow.[i guess this is moot  :Grin: ] 

Potassium should be dosed from day 1. If you did not add Penac W+Bacter 100 on day one then you should be doing WC 30% either today or tomorrow. Remember to wipe insides of tank with fingers before WC. If you dosed PW+B100, the next day is is recommended to do a 30-40% WC.

Ok, I'll shut up and watch from now... :Grin:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Hi Isaac,
> 
> I once upon a time did all this testing, including for Fe as well but decided that it was easier to eyeball the plants. 
> Your hobby ethic and journal is admirable.
> 
> I think 36W is just nice for glosso in a 1ft nano to grow nicely.
> For those that use less light I suspect you may have ambient light to help along because anything less have always looked leggy. This is also the same reason I set the photoperiod during the day. For viewing at night I just turn it on. 
> 
> A little OD on CO2 is ok but if the pH dips too low, your filter bacteria would have problems multiplying. 
> ...


No, please dun shut up!  :Crying:  Haha. Your advice is crucial to newbies like me. 
Thank you for your compliments on this journal. 

My photoperiod is from 2pm to 12am at the moment as I love to view my tank at night, the 36 watts also double up as my room lighting.  :Grin:  

My water is super clear at the moment so I'm very glad with that. I have completely stopped supplying CO2 for today and my drop checker still shows yellow. Hmmm, I'm afraid that the water that I used to mix the PH regent may be throwing the colour off as I use my tank water which had low PH with a KH of one. Does anyone knows if this will cause a problem? 

I have started dosing Step 1 since day 1 and there was already growth on the second day, so I guess thats okay. I do not have penac w but I do have bacter 100. Have been doing 30% water changes daily after the photoperiod.

Thanks for all the help and advice!  :Smile:  :Jump for joy:

----------


## fishpoo

Very detailed and informative thread bro... will keep an eye on this one

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Very detailed and informative thread bro... will keep an eye on this one


Thanks bro for viewing and following along.  :Smile:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

I think my first mistake on this scape has been the over dose of CO2. My GH for the last 3 days has been above 10 and my drop checker shows yellow. I am going to attempt to bring it down without a complete water change.


Eheim outlet is raise to the water surface to create surface agitation, this should dispense the extra CO2.

----------


## Shadow

drop checker response is very slow, just wait maybe about 2-4 hours before see the response

----------


## JadeIceGreen

I have been "aerating" my tank for the last 3 hours and the drop checker still shows yellow.




> drop checker response is very slow, just wait maybe about 2-4 hours before see the response


Knowing from experience that CO2 escapes very quickly with intense surface agitation and from bro's Shadow very helpful response, I decided to do a quick KH and PH test and entered my results into a CO2 calculator found on practical fishkeeping magazine's website.

*pH* 6.8 *
KH* 2&#176;/35.71 ppm *
CO2 level* 9.51 ppm approximately

So it looks like drop checker is slow or I have mixed the solution wrongly. Since I now know that my tank has only about 10 ppm of CO2, I am going to empty out the drop checker and fill it with my tank water and it should register green.

My CO2 has been switched back on and its set at 1 bubble per 2 seconds. Will do another CO2 test again at the end of the photoperiod and get back to you guys.

----------


## StanChung

Hi Isaac,

You should still continue to supply CO2 as the plants need it. The lowering of the pH[that's what a drop checker is-to check pH] is just a 'side effect' of the soil[Amazonia 2]. As you can see from the table of Aquasoils.
From the table we can see Amazonia 2 has less NH4+ and that the pH is correspondingly lower than original Amazonia. The peat substance in the soil reduces temporary harness[kH] and causes the pH to drop. I believe Penac W is part of the equation most hobbyists miss when they start up their 'ADA' system tank.
PenacW content breakdown as listed on the box.
SiO2 99.2&#37;, 
Al2O3 0.42%, 
Fe2O3 0.021%, 
TiO2 0.03%
Na2O 0.11%
Na2 0.01%
CaO 0.02%
MgO 0.02%.

This formulation I believe help 'neutralise' what's lost to the peat in the soils.

-------

There was always a problem for guys using Aquasoil and pH controllers. The pH is somewhat unbelievably low as what you're experiencing. Quite far from the pH6.4-6.6 recommended in most planting journals. Those tanks already have CO2 supplied. The pH controller IMO would not work properly with new Aquasoil setups. You'd have to compensate over time as the soil exhausts it's top side acidity increasing properties.

Cut long story short- :Grin: 
At this point I would ignore the test kit and just set the CO2 to one-two bubbles per second.  :Grin: 
[See why I stop using test kits?  :Laughing: ]

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Hi Isaac,
> 
> You should still continue to supply CO2 as the plants need it. The lowering of the pH[that's what a drop checker is-to check pH] is just a 'side effect' of the soil[Amazonia 2]. As you can see from the table of Aquasoils.
> From the table we can see Amazonia 2 has less NH4+ and that the pH is correspondingly lower than original Amazonia. The peat substance in the soil reduces temporary harness[kH] and causes the pH to drop. I believe Penac W is part of the equation most hobbyists miss when they start up their 'ADA' system tank.
> PenacW content breakdown as listed on the box.
> SiO2 99.2%, 
> Al2O3 0.42%, 
> Fe2O3 0.021%, 
> TiO2 0.03%
> ...


I get it, Thanks again for the info!

I'm going to let my drop checker sit in the tank but ignore it for the time being, gonna use the CO2 calculator to get more accurate results.

I regret not getting Penac W now as I skipped it due to its cost. Thanks also for the bubble count, I am going to follow that.

Yeah I can see why you stop using test kits, but for myself I am still going to use them to at least build up the discipline of daily testing and to further understand my water parameters.  :Smile:

----------


## Shadow

forget about CO2 measurement using pH and kH. ADA Aquasoil is effecting your water pH and kH thus the table no longer accurate.

If you want to check whether you mix the drop checker properly or not, you can take it out and put it outside your tank for couple hours. It should turn to blue. By the way did you use kH = 4 solution for your drop checker?

----------


## StanChung

My drop checker is for show only.  :Grin:  [the first piece of glass from ADA I bought 3 years ago. Once you start you can't stop. Ouch!]

I just noticed you started CO2 already and if you really need to test, test the pH before CO2 is supplied and 1/2 hour after it's supplied. Should not drop more than 1 pH point.

Have you got a Speed Controller G? I find it useful for fine tuning CO2 bubble count.  :Grin:

----------


## Shadow

what is speed controller G?

----------


## ghim

Very innovative for using the outlet pipe like a lily pipe. I just gotten a nano CAL set, but still have not install it. Seems like they are the only one with a gap big enough for 8mm nano tank. 

You guys are really tempting people to try out this kind scape :Laughing:  I shall rescape my 1ft to Iwagumi. Now to hunt for rocks!

For nano tank, even at 1 bps CO2, the drop checker will show yellow very fast. But it takes quite a long time to show the actual color. You can always pour away the liquid and add new solution. :Razz:

----------


## Gutokoro

Nice tank, with nice accessories.
Keep us updated.
I'd put more little smaller stones around the bigger ones to let the layout more natural.

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> forget about CO2 measurement using pH and kH. ADA Aquasoil is effecting your water pH and kH thus the table no longer accurate.
> 
> If you want to check whether you mix the drop checker properly or not, you can take it out and put it outside your tank for couple hours. It should turn to blue. By the way did you use kH = 4 solution for your drop checker?


I read about adding KH 4 solution to the drop checker, do you know where I can buy this solution? I know Green Leaf Aquarium sells them up that is in the UK.  :Razz: 




> My drop checker is for show only.  [the first piece of glass from ADA I bought 3 years ago. Once you start you can't stop. Ouch!]
> 
> I just noticed you started CO2 already and if you really need to test, test the pH before CO2 is supplied and 1/2 hour after it's supplied. Should not drop more than 1 pH point.
> 
> Have you got a Speed Controller G? I find it useful for fine tuning CO2 bubble count.


I know what you mean, my drop checker is the first and I am already seriously thinking of adding the mini version of the diffuser, inlet and outlet lily pipes. A question that I have about glass lily pipes is that how do you remove the plastic hoses when you want to clean those pipes? Won't you break them as eheim pipes and plastic tubes take a lot of effort to pull out.





> Very innovative for using the outlet pipe like a lily pipe. I just gotten a nano CAL set, but still have not install it. Seems like they are the only one with a gap big enough for 8mm nano tank. 
> 
> You guys are really tempting people to try out this kind scape I shall rescape my 1ft to Iwagumi. Now to hunt for rocks!
> 
> For nano tank, even at 1 bps CO2, the drop checker will show yellow very fast. But it takes quite a long time to show the actual color. You can always pour away the liquid and add new solution.


Yeah, at least now I know the drop checker is not accurate. I am always tempted to change the solutions but its all cost! The tiny bottle of PH regent won't last too long if I keep doing that.  :Opps: 




> Nice tank, with nice accessories.
> Keep us updated.
> I'd put more little smaller stones around the bigger ones to let the layout more natural.


It is a Sanzon Iwagumi, I am limited to 3 stones. But I do hope I have the chance to do another type of Iwagumi in the future where I can use more stones. Thanks for joining us along on this ride, I am happy you are enjoying yourself.

----------


## JadeIceGreen

Okay, I know Aqua Soil is messing around with my PH so my drop checker is sort of cheating on me at the moment  :Crying:  :Razz:  and a test using KH and PH won't really be accurate. 

But, as I did a CO2 test a few hours ago after 18 hours of zero CO2 injection and 3 hours of surface agitation, at least I have something of a benchmark.

This was the earlier test,
*pH* 6.8 *
KH* 2&#176;/35.71 ppm *
CO2 level* 9.51 ppm approximately


5 hours later at the end of my photoperiod and a bubble rate of 1 per second, this is the results.
*pH* 6.2 * 
KH* 2&#176;/35.71 ppm * 
CO2 level* 37.86 ppm approximately

PH fell by 0.6 due to the CO2 so at least I can see a rise in the CO2 level. I dun know how accurate is the 37.86 ppm but at least there has been an increase and an average gauge of my CO2 levels.


Here are my other test results for Day 4.
*PH* – 6.2
*GH* - Did not test.
*KH* – 2
*NO2* – 0.8
*NH3/NH4* – 6


What is very interesting and significant is that NH3/NH4 is going down and at the very same time, NO2 is going up. That can only mean one thing, Nitrosomonas bacteria has come alive and the nitrogen cycle has started!!!  :Jump for joy:  :Jump for joy:  :Jump for joy:  All thanks to the heavy dosing of Seachem Stability in the last 4 days and my wonderful Bio Rio.  :Grin:

----------


## Viper007

A beautiful art in the making. Thanks for doing the step by step photo intensive method. Really learn alot from you and about ADA product. (You can be a ADA spokes person)

By the way, can you pm me the pricing for the chiller... My tank recently added a UV system and the temp went up to 26.2 I hope to bring down to about 24.5 - 25 degrees. Thanks

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> A beautiful art in the making. Thanks for doing the step by step photo intensive method. Really learn alot from you and about ADA product. (You can be a ADA spokes person)
> 
> By the way, can you pm me the pricing for the chiller... My tank recently added a UV system and the temp went up to 26.2 I hope to bring down to about 24.5 - 25 degrees. Thanks


Thanks for following along! I am learning a lot too from all the bros here so its a real pleasure to share my journey with everyone. Nah, I dun know enough of ADA, I dun even own everything that ADA has although that is my life's dream which I hope to fulfill at 62. LOL.  :Shocked:  :Razz: 

This is the website for the chiller, http://www.cblue.com.tw/english/cs049%20eng.htm.
At medium setting it runs at 120 watts, at high setting it runs at 160 watts. I have pmed you the price.

What I love about this chiller is that its small and virtually quiet. My tank is in my bedroom so I am constantly amazed that it is so quiet. But I suspect it is not as energy efficient as a normal compressor chiller, so if you have space and dun mind some noise, a compressor chiller may save more cash in the end.

I have estimated that this chiller, operating non-stop for a total of 9 hours a day, will cost me about 11 dollars a month based on our current electrical tariff. 

Hope all this information has been of help!  :Smile:

----------


## ghim

For lily pipes, soak the plastic hose with hot water. Do this when putting it in and taking out the lily pipe. And please handle with care. Forcing it like a plastic pipe will break it. That's what happened to my brother's nano lily pipe :Exasperated: 

I am looking for clear plastic hose. Any chance you seen before? I know ADA has it, but not sure if it is available in Singapore.

----------


## Gutokoro

> It is a Sanzon Iwagumi, I am limited to 3 stones. But I do hope I have the chance to do another type of Iwagumi in the future where I can use more stones. Thanks for joining us along on this ride, I am happy you are enjoying yourself.


Hmmm... Living and learning, thanks for the explanation!

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> For lily pipes, soak the plastic hose with hot water. Do this when putting it in and taking out the lily pipe. And please handle with care. Forcing it like a plastic pipe will break it. That's what happened to my brother's nano lily pipe
> 
> I am looking for clear plastic hose. Any chance you seen before? I know ADA has it, but not sure if it is available in Singapore.


Last I asked, they dun have the clear hose here in Singapore. Anyway, you can get a clear hose in a hardware shop, its much cheaper too!
Can I use boiling hot water, or will the hose melt?




> Hmmm... Living and learning, thanks for the explanation!


No problem.  :Smile:

----------


## Viper007

> Thanks for following along! I am learning a lot too from all the bros here so its a real pleasure to share my journey with everyone. Nah, I dun know enough of ADA, I dun even own everything that ADA has although that is my life's dream which I hope to fulfill at 62. LOL. 
> 
> Hope all this information has been of help!


Thanks Bro, for the quick responds on the chiller........ Wow owning the complete ADA is everybodies dream (I mean almost all.... other then Eheim). Well, the best place to buy ADA is unfortunately not in Singapore  :Sad:  but in HK like what bro blue had mention in some other threads.

Cross finger that the disty here will lower the pricing in time to come.  :Razz:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Thanks Bro, for the quick responds on the chiller........ Wow owning the complete ADA is everybodies dream (I mean almost all.... other then Eheim). Well, the best place to buy ADA is unfortunately not in Singapore  but in HK like what bro blue had mention in some other threads.
> 
> Cross finger that the disty here will lower the pricing in time to come.


What you say is true. ADA prices in Singapore are quite expensive compared to the prices in nearby countries. I may get my hands on a lobang soon, will update you guys if it happens.

*crossing my fingers!*  :Wink:

----------


## Viper007

> What you say is true. ADA prices in Singapore are quite expensive compared to the prices in nearby countries. I may get my hands on a lobang soon, will update you guys if it happens.
> 
> *crossing my fingers!*


Will certainly hope you can get it... I'm also thinking of going full ADA.... What's stopping me is scare interest will not last, I have been in this forum since 2003 and stop in end 2004....... Now thanks to craftsman I'm back again! And secondly ADA pricing in spore is way too X.

----------


## blue33

I find that not neccessary to use full ADA in the first place unless you have deep poscket, you should put more effort on Aquascape and getting it to the higher level first before you consider full ADA or so, like wise like trimming tools such as scissors and so can consider ADA as they are really good. I've seen people go full ADA but in the end, nothing great done on the tank itself. IMO. Maybe i should keep my mouth shut also.  :Opps:

----------


## Shadow

> And secondly ADA pricing in spore is way too X.


yeah, my pocket not deep enough to buy ADA product except for the Aquasoil  :Razz:

----------


## subxero

Quality products does not make your tank looks great if you don't scape properly. It just makes the success rate higher  :Grin:

----------


## blue33

> Last I asked, they dun have the clear hose here in Singapore. Anyway, you can get a clear hose in a hardware shop, its much cheaper too!
> Can I use boiling hot water, or will the hose melt?...


Those normal hose, you should use a fastener to tie it, you dont want to see your house flooded, they are not like Eheim hose which can long terms of holding. Thats why they are much more expensive than the normal one. 

Get a cup of hot water, dip it and immediately push it in before it cools down. Fasten it with plastic fastener.  :Smile:

----------


## StanChung

Hi Isaac,

You should measure an hour after the CO2 comes on as well.
The graph should read peak pH level before CO2 is injected[together with lights on] and begin to drop once it's supplied, drop to the lowest point and rise again as the plants start to use the CO2.

I forgot to add in my earlier post that Brighty K is alkaline. It helps keep the acidity down if dosed daily for new setups. Old setups like mine I skip a day or two since I'm lazy.


To remove hose, I cut a small slit on the hose about 0.5-1 cm, with a little bending & pull it will come out easily yet not come off easily when in use.  :Wink: 
Some say to push in the then pull out. I tried before but didn't work.  :Exasperated: 
I just cleaned my Cal Aqualabs diffuser yesterday and I was very afraid to break it.[dup dup, dup dup-heartbeat sound] Safely done-phew! I've broken two ADA diffusers before-Beetle 50 and the nano version so this was indeed a tense moment.  :Razz: 

Speed controller G is a device to control the CO2 flowrate. Install it in series after your solenoid/needle valve and before the bubble counter/check valve. Turn the metal knob to increase or decrease the CO2. Much more easier to adjust than the stiff solenoid needle valve. Note: It will not work if you don't turn up the CO2 from the needle valve a little bit.  :Grin:  I bought 3 but damaged one with a plier.  :Exasperated:  ID ten T error. 

------

'Olbies' like me who are already long into the hobby who have seen a lot and already despise DIY and shoddy made things.  :Razz: 
Of course one cannot pursue this hobby without money and one must always have something to target for.  :Wink:  For starters as Blue says, you can always try out with modest kits and later on upgrade once you have the skills but no harm diving right in if you can afford it. ADA system is made for newbies[albeit richer ones]. Use to be difficult because we didn't understand Japanese and how it's meant to be used but not so anymore.
I used to rescape and move rocks around in my Aquasoil setup before realising MUCH LATER I was dealing with soil pellets! DOH!

----------


## Shadow

> Speed controller G is a device to control the CO2 flowrate. Install it in series after your solenoid/needle valve and before the bubble counter/check valve. Turn the metal knob to increase or decrease the CO2. Much more easier to adjust than the stiff solenoid needle valve. Note: It will not work if you don't turn up the CO2 from the needle valve a little bit.  I bought 3 but damaged one with a plier.  ID ten T error.


I thought you use needle valve to control the CO2 flowrate? This Speed controller G sound like another needle valve. New needle valve is not that stiff, in fact I found it too lose. I preferred the older/stiff model, few time I accidentally turn my needle valve just by touching it.

----------


## JadeIceGreen

I understand where Blue and Shadow are coming from and I completely agree that buying ADA products does not guarantee you a successful scape. Glassware are equipment that just add to the overall appeal to the scape but no matter how beautiful your glassware are, your scape will still depend on your creativity and ingenuity.

But to bring up a point that I've said earlier, I also believe that all equipment that are attached to a tank are also part of the scape. And as my tank sits on my desk in my bedroom, it is important for me, personally, to have equipment that are beautiful yet serve their purpose. That is why I invested in 4 Arcadia Arc Pods when I can easily get a 36 watt light set for a third of that price. I take my aquascapes seriously, I know I am nowhere near pro, and that will take time, patience and hard work. Good pro equipment, money can buy but not creative talent. So with whatever I can spare for my hobby, I will get what is value for money. All my "expensive" items I bought them during clearance sales. I do not get any ADA glassware at retail prices, I only get ADA stuff when a special price comes around.

Having said all that, I would also love to support ADA as much as I can because they are the pioneer of so many aquarium equipment that we take for granted today. All of us have a budget for this hobby, no matter great or small, the importance will always be the aquascape and our passion to improve and re-create nature.


Short Update

CO2 test was taken at 1340, 5 mins to CO2 injection and 20 mins to the start of Day 5's photoperiod.
Here is the result.

*pH* 6.6 
* KH* 2&#176;/35.71 ppm * 
CO2 level* 15.07 ppm approximately

As per Stan's suggestion, I will do another CO2 test around 1500.


One good news that I have is that after installing a 4th Arcadia Arc Pod that brings my total lighting wattage to 36 watts, my glosso has started to spread closer to the ground. Vivipara has also recieved their first trim last night as they grew an additional 7cm in the first 3 days.

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Hi Isaac,
> 
> You should measure an hour after the CO2 comes on as well.
> The graph should read peak pH level before CO2 is injected[together with lights on] and begin to drop once it's supplied, drop to the lowest point and rise again as the plants start to use the CO2.
> 
> I forgot to add in my earlier post that Brighty K is alkaline. It helps keep the acidity down if dosed daily for new setups. Old setups like mine I skip a day or two since I'm lazy.
> 
> 
> To remove hose, I cut a small slit on the hose about 0.5-1 cm, with a little bending & pull it will come out easily yet not come off easily when in use. 
> ...


Yup! I am using Brightly K on a daily basis, very glad to hear that it helps with the PH.

For the clear tube, do you cut the slit before the first time on insertion into the lily pipe or only when you want to remove them from the lily pipe?

Thanks.

----------


## craftsman

> Will certainly hope you can get it... I'm also thinking of going full ADA.... What's stopping me is scare interest will not last, I have been in this forum since 2003 and stop in end 2004....... Now thanks to craftsman I'm back again! And secondly ADA pricing in spore is way too X.


Hey.. dun blame me lah!  :Opps:  :Opps:  I dun dare to answer your CO.  :Roll Eyes: 

You make your own decision one hor!  :Grin:  :Grin:  :Grin:

----------


## craftsman

> I find that not neccessary to use full ADA in the first place unless you have deep poscket, you should put more effort on Aquascape and getting it to the higher level first before you consider full ADA or so, like wise like trimming tools such as scissors and so can consider ADA as they are really good. I've seen people go full ADA but in the end, nothing great done on the tank itself. IMO. Maybe i should keep my mouth shut also.


Ha ha ha.. shaddup!  :Grin:  :Grin:

----------


## blue33

> 


Is that algae on your glass or your plant reflection?  :Smile:

----------


## StanChung

Hi Isaac,
I slit it before putting it in.

Adrian-looks like reflection.

Haiz-lucky this is not Canon VS Nikon kind of thread.  :Grin:  
Otherwise moderators have to put out fire so everyone please stay nice!

----------


## JadeIceGreen

Hey Blue, its the reflection, I am using just a normal digicam so please pardon the quality of some pictures.

Thanks Stan for the clarification on the tubing.. and very smart, I am using either Canon or Nikon but I'm not going to reveal which ones. Those camera fanatics are scary! lol.  :Opps: 


Alright, 1500 hours CO2 test results.

*pH* 6.2 * 
KH* 2&#176;/35.71 ppm * 
CO2 level* 37.86 ppm approximately

----------


## Shadow

I know what you are using, Nikon coolpix S210, you did not delete the exif data  :Laughing:

----------


## StanChung

LOL, I think I face the tubing issue even with those green Eheim outflows but only resorted to slitting the tubes with the glass pipes since they are fragile.  :Laughing:

----------


## Shadow

cut-cut-cut, after a while your tube become very short  :Opps:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> I know what you are using, Nikon coolpix S210, you did not delete the exif data


Die ah, secret out liao. Heh.  :Grin: 




> LOL, I think I face the tubing issue even with those green Eheim outflows but only resorted to slitting the tubes with the glass pipes since they are fragile.


Eheim tubing are difficult to remove from the pipes because at the base of the pipe where you insert your tubes, there are two small indentations that go around the pipe. This allows you to slot the pipe in but keeps air within the indentations making it difficult to take the pipe out. Its eheim's way of assuring your tubing will never fall off your pipes accidentally and causing a flood. 




> cut-cut-cut, after a while your tube become very short


I think only need to cut once right? Just once to ensure easy removal and insertion?

----------


## StanChung

Yes the ribbing is a pain. Use to wrestle with the spraybar before bleaching.

----------


## Viper007

> I find that not neccessary to use full ADA in the first place unless you have deep poscket, you should put more effort on Aquascape and getting it to the higher level first before you consider full ADA or so, like wise like trimming tools such as scissors and so can consider ADA as they are really good. I've seen people go full ADA but in the end, nothing great done on the tank itself. IMO. Maybe i should keep my mouth shut also.


Well Bro you certainly have a valid point on this. But on that note ADA provides a systematic way of doing the tank up. Following all the steps the end product will not be too bad i suppose. 

And I think ADA di a wonderful job in marketing there product & also put in lots of detail into the product itself. That makes people swear by it! :Razz: 




> yeah, my pocket not deep enough to buy ADA product except for the Aquasoil


At lease you have the soil I have nothing on ADA yet.  :Embarassed: 




> Hey.. dun blame me lah!  I dun dare to answer your CO. You make your own decision one hor!


peer presure! Sigh..........

----------


## Shadow

> Well Bro you certainly have a valid point on this. But on that note ADA provides a systematic way of doing the tank up. Following all the steps the end product will not be too bad i suppose. 
> 
> And I think ADA di a wonderful job in marketing there product & also put in lots of detail into the product itself. That makes people swear by it!


Other brands also have systematic way. My opinion is because of Amano. He is making many beautiful aquascape and gives people wrong impression that only with ADA product you can grow such beautiful scape. It is a great advertisement. I'm sure you can grow healthy plant with other brand of fertilizer as well.

As far as equipment wise, they have great quality and design products, of course with a price  :Opps: 

I think we are way out of topic  :Opps:  sorry bro JadeIceGren  :Grin:

----------


## StanChung

True and we will however continue to support Amano and others so that the hobby grows.  :Smile:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Other brands also have systematic way. My opinion is because of Amano. He is making many beautiful aquascape and gives people wrong impression that only with ADA product you can grow such beautiful scape. It is a great advertisement. I'm sure you can grow healthy plant with other brand of fertilizer as well.
> 
> As far as equipment wise, they have great quality and design products, of course with a price 
> 
> I think we are way out of topic  sorry bro JadeIceGren


No such thing as OOT here as long as we are talking about aquarium stuffs. More talk means more knowledge for all of us.  :Smile: 

Anyway, you are making my journal a more happening place!!  :Grin:  :Jump for joy:

----------


## craftsman

So hows the chiller coming along bro JadeIceGreen? Quiet? Temperature constant? How often does it kick in? Sorry for asking so many questions.  :Grin:  :Grin: 

By the way, I saw the same chiller selling at Seaview.

----------


## Viper007

> So hows the chiller coming along bro JadeIceGreen? Quiet? Temperature constant? How often does it kick in? Sorry for asking so many questions. 
> 
> By the way, I saw the same chiller selling at Seaview.


Yup I saw that too today!!!  :Wink: 

$350 plus with a 15% off... tempted but saw another chiller Resun at the same price somewhere else.  :Roll Eyes: 

Really paisei bro jade.... use your thread to go off topic...  :Embarassed: 

Shadow.... Yup ADA marketing is really cool. Anyway, Amano's work is not a hobby is an Art!  :Smile:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> So hows the chiller coming along bro JadeIceGreen? Quiet? Temperature constant? How often does it kick in? Sorry for asking so many questions. 
> 
> By the way, I saw the same chiller selling at Seaview.


Very quiet, unless I place my ear next to it, I can't even hear it hum. I dun know if its because my tank is only 20 litres or if its because of 2211's flow rate that may not be sufficient as it takes about 45 minutes bring down my tank's temperature from 26 to 24. 

20 litres of water gains ambient heat very quickly so my chiller only gets to rest about 15 minutes before starting up again. 36 watts of lighting does not help too.  :Crying: 

The flow rate of 200 plus (after going through the filter media and chiller) is perfect for my tank at the moment and I'm very happy with the flow. 

On the other hand, I read that a stronger flow will help the chiller cool faster and in turn will bring down my overall electrical bill. I am also highly in favour of the extra 2 litres of filter media space that a 2213 brings but it will be 100 litres more on the flow rate. 

Sorry bro to use my reply to you to ask more questions.  :Embarassed:  But does anyone think I should upgrade to a 2213? I am afraid my tank won't be able to cope with the extra 100 litres per hour as I am not using a lily pipe. Damn, I want a ES-600, I would kill for one.  :Cool:  :Angel:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Yup I saw that too today!!! 
> 
> $350 plus with a 15% off... tempted but saw another chiller Resun at the same price somewhere else. 
> 
> Really paisei bro jade.... use your thread to go off topic... 
> 
> Shadow.... Yup ADA marketing is really cool. Anyway, Amano's work is not a hobby is an Art!


No worries, please use my thread and talk, I like it lively.  :Grin: 
Before getting my chiller, I was also considering Hailea 130A or Resun 280, but those were huge and could not fit under my desk.  :Smile:

----------


## Viper007

Wow that chiller is really small! Tempting!  :Cool: 

Thanks for the pix I'm having the same problem as you lack of "SPACE".  :Smile: 

Bro Jade, I just notice your electric plugs are next to your filter... for safety reasons I will advice you to relocated your electric plugs.

----------


## Shadow

> No worries, please use my thread and talk, I like it lively. 
> Before getting my chiller, I was also considering Hailea 130A or Resun 280, but those were huge and could not fit under my desk.


Resun 280 will be extremly over power  :Laughing:  I use it for my 3ft (180 L). There should be smaller version but since it is in the bedroom, thermoelectric chiller is the best choice.

----------


## blue33

> Other brands also have systematic way. My opinion is because of Amano. He is making many beautiful aquascape and gives people wrong impression that only with ADA product you can grow such beautiful scape. It is a great advertisement. I'm sure you can grow healthy plant with other brand of fertilizer as well.
> 
> As far as equipment wise, they have great quality and design products, of course with a price 
> 
> I think we are way out of topic  sorry bro JadeIceGren


Well still alot people think getting ADA will lead them to beautiful scape just like Amano has created, too bad. Forgetting creating aquascape still needs alot of work, patience and also talent(this can achieve by copying from etc...) in a way. Problem is how to maintain and getting the scape to last is difficult for many people.  :Sad:

----------


## blue33

> Very quiet, unless I place my ear next to it, I can't even hear it hum. I dun know if its because my tank is only 20 litres or if its because of 2211's flow rate that may not be sufficient as it takes about 45 minutes bring down my tank's temperature from 26 to 24. 
> 
> 20 litres of water gains ambient heat very quickly so my chiller only gets to rest about 15 minutes before starting up again. 36 watts of lighting does not help too. 
> 
> The flow rate of 200 plus (after going through the filter media and chiller) is perfect for my tank at the moment and I'm very happy with the flow. 
> 
> On the other hand, I read that a stronger flow will help the chiller cool faster and in turn will bring down my overall electrical bill. I am also highly in favour of the extra 2 litres of filter media space that a 2213 brings but it will be 100 litres more on the flow rate. 
> 
> Sorry bro to use my reply to you to ask more questions.  But does anyone think I should upgrade to a 2213? I am afraid my tank won't be able to cope with the extra 100 litres per hour as I am not using a lily pipe. Damn, I want a ES-600, I would kill for one.


I always buy over size filter, much over i should said as i'm connecting few thing before out it goes and that has really drop the flow rate by then, maybe i should get a pump head instead. LOL.  :Grin:

----------


## craftsman

> Wow that chiller is really small! Tempting!


Mai Tu Leow!!




> Thanks for the pix I'm having the same problem as you lack of "SPACE".


Consider a 3 tier 4 ft set up!  :Grin:  :Grin:

----------


## craftsman

> Very quiet, unless I place my ear next to it, I can't even hear it hum. I dun know if its because my tank is only 20 litres or if its because of 2211's flow rate that may not be sufficient as it takes about 45 minutes bring down my tank's temperature from 26 to 24. 
> 
> 20 litres of water gains ambient heat very quickly so my chiller only gets to rest about 15 minutes before starting up again. 36 watts of lighting does not help too.


Bro, looks like this chiller is the way to go. hmm..... 

By the way, do you think by putting an ambient thermometer instead of the inbuilt thermometer in the chiller would help to reduce the frequency the chiller kicks in? Might be able to have the chiller only kick in every 30 minutes (for instance) rather than every 15 minutes?

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Well still alot people think getting ADA will lead them to beautiful scape just like Amano has created, too bad. Forgetting creating aquascape still needs alot of work, patience and also talent(this can achieve by copying from etc...) in a way. Problem is how to maintain and getting the scape to last is difficult for many people.


I totally agree with you.




> I always buy over size filter, much over i should said as i'm connecting few thing before out it goes and that has really drop the flow rate by then, maybe i should get a pump head instead. LOL.


For me if need strong flow rate, I rather invest in a better filter than a stronger pump head as all those extra filter media that you can put in will be awesome for your tank!  :Smile:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Mai Tu Leow!!
> 
> 
> 
> Consider a 3 tier 4 ft set up!


Thats the way!! Peer Pressure!!!  :Grin:  :Grin:  :Grin: 




> Bro, looks like this chiller is the way to go. hmm..... 
> 
> By the way, do you think by putting an ambient thermometer instead of the inbuilt thermometer in the chiller would help to reduce the frequency the chiller kicks in? Might be able to have the chiller only kick in every 30 minutes (for instance) rather than every 15 minutes?


Its not the problem of when the chiller kicks in, the problem is when the chiller takes 45 minutes to cool 2 degrees off 20 litres of water that is worrying.

----------


## Viper007

> Mai Tu Leow!!
> 
> 
> 
> Consider a 3 tier 4 ft set up!


EVIL!! :Blah: 

Nope not going to buy it!! kekekeke

Well looking at long term 2.5 to 3ft tank is where I want to go. So if i buy this chiller next time I upgrade how?? :Huh?:

----------


## craftsman

> EVIL!!
> 
> Nope not going to buy it!! kekekeke
> 
> Well looking at long term 2.5 to 3ft tank is where I want to go. So if i buy this chiller next tie I upgrade how??


Buy the larger chiler loh. Next time upgrade tank no problem. I saw two different sizes at Seaview.  :Grin:

----------


## ghim

I am using Eheim tubes with lily pipe. No issue heating it with boiling water. Eheim 2211 should be enough. Put a fish inside and see how fast it is swimming now.

I am into aesthetic looks. :Laughing:  Buying a pair of ADA inlet and outlet seems like a sin. The price of them can be 3 times the price of my tank. Do!Aqua and CAL seems to have a better pricing. Since I am having mid career crisis, buying expensive goods and frequent shopping helped me to destress. Just kidding! :Blah:  ADA SG should really revised their prices and display a better range. Just reminded myself, I have not bought an expensive 1ft light set yet.

Anyway, Happy Chinese New Year in advance!

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> I am using Eheim tubes with lily pipe. No issue heating it with boiling water. Eheim 2211 should be enough. Put a fish inside and see how fast it is swimming now.
> 
> I am into aesthetic looks. Buying a pair of ADA inlet and outlet seems like a sin. The price of them can be 3 times the price of my tank. Do!Aqua and CAL seems to have a better pricing. Since I am having mid career crisis, buying expensive goods and frequent shopping helped me to destress. Just kidding! ADA SG should really revised their prices and display a better range. Just reminded myself, I have not bought an expensive 1ft light set yet.
> 
> Anyway, Happy Chinese New Year in advance!


Same here, I am into aesthetics as well.

Right now, I want to get the Mini Lily Pipe Inflow/Outflow. Problem with that will be a lack of surface agitation that I am afraid might cause my fauna to suffocate as Mini Lily Pipe Outflow looks exactly the same as the eheim outlet. I do have some surface agitation a a corner of the tank and moderate current on the water surface, I dun know if that is enough.




The other option is to get a actual lily pipe so that I can aerate the water at night. Also, having a lily pipe will open the option of upgrading to a 2213 since it will diffuse the stronger water current.

Or the other option (boring one. lol :Grin: ) is not to change anything.
What do you guys feel I should do??


Test Results for Day 5 

*PH* – 6.2
*GH* - Did not test.
*KH* – 3
*NO2* – 0.8
*NH3/NH4* – 6
*CO2 level* 71.49 ppm approximately

----------


## JadeIceGreen

Pre - Photo Period CO2 Update

CO2 test was taken at 1340, 5 mins to CO2 injection and 20 mins to the start of Day 6's photo period.
Here is the result.

*pH* 6.6
*KH* 2.5&#176;/44.64 ppm
*CO2 level* 18.84 ppm approximately

CO2 levels have dropped an approximate 52.65 ppm in the last 14 hours from yesterday's photo period.

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Buy the larger chiler loh. Next time upgrade tank no problem. I saw two different sizes at Seaview.


Lai lai, I be good person and add more poison.  :Angel:

----------


## ghim

I think most people interested in knowing the monthly running cost. As it is hard to calculate the average monthly running cost for chillers.

For nano lily pipe, you can check out Do!Aqua(it is also ADA) and CAL.

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> I think most people interested in knowing the monthly running cost. As it is hard to calculate the average monthly running cost for chillers.
> 
> For nano lily pipe, you can check out Do!Aqua(it is also ADA) and CAL.


My chiller operates at about 180 watts, an estimated of 10 hours a day. That is about $12-$13 a month.

I've seen Do!Aqua's lily pipes, they are of a more playful nature. I prefer the sleek look of ADA mainstream lily pipes.  :Smile:

----------


## craftsman

> My chiller operates at about 180 watts, an estimated of 10 hours a day. That is about $12-$13 a month.
> 
> I've seen Do!Aqua's lily pipes, they are of a more playful nature. I prefer the sleek look of ADA mainstream lily pipes.


Bro, $12-$13 is probably alot cheaper than normal chillers right?  :Smile:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Bro, $12-$13 is probably alot cheaper than normal chillers right?


That I have no idea, the amount is actually considered high to me because of my small tank rather than because of the chiller. I got a feeling that if I run a two feet tank, my cost will be about the same or a slight increase.

For a comparison between my chiller and a compressor based on my tank size, I guess we will never know until someone who also uses a 20 litres tank with a compressor chiller feedback to us.

----------


## Shadow

I run 3ft, cost me $8 - $10 a month

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> I run 3ft, cost me $8 - $10 a month


What temperature did you set your chiller at?

----------


## Shadow

24 degree C

----------


## Viper007

> 24 degree C


Wah 24% are you doing breeding of shrimps? :Grin:

----------


## Shadow

> Wah 24% are you doing breeding of shrimps?


nope just trying out. People said that cooler water make your plant grow better, less algae. But so far I did not see any different in plant growth and green spot algae still around mostly on the rock. Recently my CO2 finshed without noticing it and BBA start growing on my fern.

I guess the effect only seen on moss, flame moss twist more in cold water. I didn't see any different for spiky moss

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> 24 degree C


Looks like a bigger tank is indeed more power efficient!  :Crying:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

Test Results for Day 6 

*PH*  6.6
*GH* - Did not test.
*KH*  3
*NO2*  0.25
*NH3/NH4*  8
*CO2 level* 22.61 ppm approximately

There a lot of changes today. Firstly, I cut CO2 bubble rate from 1.5 per second to 1 per second, thus the change of 48.88 ppm approximate. For tomorrow's photo period, I will try to hit about 35 to 50 ppm with a very slight increase.

Secondly, for some reason, NO2 has stopped rising and went back down to 0.25. NH3/NH4 on the other hand went back up to 8. Does this means that my nitrogen cycle has stopped?  :Shocked:  :Crying:  :Crying:  :Crying:  :Exasperated: 

Nothing was done to disturb the tank except the usual cutting and re-planting after last night's photo period.

Will also post a picture update tomorrow for comparison as it has been a week.  :Smile:

----------


## ghim

> Looks like a bigger tank is indeed more power efficient!


That's what I thought too. Almost got a TEM chiller for my 1ft tank. Better save the money, wait for my next upgrade  :Grin: 

Will be planting more glosso in my 1ft tank tonight. Want to race on who filled up their tank with glosso first? :Angel:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> That's what I thought too. Almost got a TEM chiller for my 1ft tank. Better save the money, wait for my next upgrade 
> 
> Will be planting more glosso in my 1ft tank tonight. Want to race on who filled up their tank with glosso first?


On! haha.  :Grin: 
Ermm, I just remembered! You started first.  :Huh?:  Anyway, I will be away the next four days, going to cut my photo period to 6 hours, but I'll still take up your challenge. Haha.

----------


## ghim

You "on" too fast! :Blah:  Just for the fun of it. My first row glosso had been growing for a while. Tank already cycled and inside the substrate has Wondergro Root!

Took out all my moss and driftwood, placed them in my 2ft tank. Placed 2 rocks inside my tank. Planted glosso and japanese HG. Will start a new thread on this tank after CNY. :Grin:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

Hey All! 

Sorry for the lack of updates during the last 4 days as I was out of the country, here is what greeted me when I came back.





Just to see the comparison of growth, here is Day 1.



Glosso has grown leggy again due to a lesser photo period of 6 hours as I was not around to fert and I didn't want algae to come. Good news is that there is still no sight of a single speck of algae and today day 11.  :Jump for joy:  Bad news is, I got a lot of trimming to do tonight!

----------


## Viper007

Bro I notice your glosso are growing upwards instead of carpeting the ground. I suspect your lighting may not be enough. Just a thought. :Smile:

----------


## Morgan01

looks kindda wild bro

----------


## StanChung

Just let it grow for the time being. Trim when it fills up. Feel the insides of the tank with your finger tips. Bumpy? Scrape with card and do a WC.

FYI, even if you do weekly dosing your tank can also grow nicely. 4 days away is no problem IME.

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Bro I notice your glosso are growing upwards instead of carpeting the ground. I suspect your lighting may not be enough. Just a thought.


I already mentioned that its growing upwards as the photo period was cut to 6 hours a day because I was away.  :Smile: 




> looks kindda wild bro


Thanks for the compliment.




> Just let it grow for the time being. Trim when it fills up. Feel the insides of the tank with your finger tips. Bumpy? Scrape with card and do a WC.
> 
> FYI, even if you do weekly dosing your tank can also grow nicely. 4 days away is no problem IME.


Thanks for the suggestion, I will let it grow out more then.  :Smile:  The insides of the tank is fine as I follow your earlier advice by cleaning it with my hands during my daily water change. 

Never knew that, I thought 4 days was always too long for scapes that follow a daily fert regime. Learnt something new today!  :Grin:

----------


## StanChung

Hi Isaac,
I'm from the old school where we used to dump in weekly dose and the plants still grow well. Of course 3 time or regular dosage has slight advantages of keeping water column less saturated when you do weekly 'dump' dosing especially if you have sensitive fauna and a high light tank full of hungry stem plants. 

I currently adopt every 3-4 days dosing since my plants are not so demanding-ferns, hair grasses, mosses one or two two stem plant species. I have 5 planted tanks. 
all in various stages of high to low light. I'm leaning more towards substrate feeding for most of the tanks but mosses, anubias and ferns need water column dosing since they don't root into the substrate.

So fart I've tried a few substrate fertilisers and Ferka rosetta capsules are really something. Anything you want to grow giant size just stick some in the substrate near it.  :Grin:

----------


## ghim

I am also from the old school then :Grin: . The only liquid fert that I dose daily is Balance-K. The rest are either 3-4days. Main fert is weekly.

I had been away for 4-5 days before. What I normally did was to off the CO2, reduce the photo-period and dose liquid fert before I leave. And of cause I will overfeed the fauna. So far the results were pretty ok.

Your glosso seems to be looking for something. Light or nutrient. As they seems to be rushing to the centre.

Stan actually brought up a good hint for you, root fertiliser :Evil:  . It will really boost up the growth of rooted plants. Even though you had base fertiliser in placed, the release speed is different.

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Hi Isaac,
> I'm from the old school where we used to dump in weekly dose and the plants still grow well. Of course 3 time or regular dosage has slight advantages of keeping water column less saturated when you do weekly 'dump' dosing especially if you have sensitive fauna and a high light tank full of hungry stem plants. 
> 
> I currently adopt every 3-4 days dosing since my plants are not so demanding-ferns, hair grasses, mosses one or two two stem plant species. I have 5 planted tanks. 
> all in various stages of high to low light. I'm leaning more towards substrate feeding for most of the tanks but mosses, anubias and ferns need water column dosing since they don't root into the substrate.
> 
> So fart I've tried a few substrate fertilisers and Ferka rosetta capsules are really something. Anything you want to grow giant size just stick some in the substrate near it.





> I am also from the old school then. The only liquid fert that I dose daily is Balance-K. The rest are either 3-4days. Main fert is weekly.
> 
> I had been away for 4-5 days before. What I normally did was to off the CO2, reduce the photo-period and dose liquid fert before I leave. And of cause I will overfeed the fauna. So far the results were pretty ok.
> 
> Your glosso seems to be looking for something. Light or nutrient. As they seems to be rushing to the centre.
> 
> Stan actually brought up a good hint for you, root fertiliser . It will really boost up the growth of rooted plants. Even though you had base fertiliser in placed, the release speed is different.


Thanks for the tips!

I will be following Stan's photo period method and then will leave the lights on at night when I'm viewing. Ambient lighting is what I think is causing the glosso to grow legs, so I am hoping this change of photo period will help that.

I dun think I can put root tablets now that the glosso has covered most of the ground, but I will remember next time. So far, I am very pleased with my vivipara, daily trimming makes them grow nice and straight.  :Smile:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

Test Results for Day 13 (Thursday, 29/01/2009)

*PH* – 6.2
*GH* - Did not test.
*KH* – 3
*NO2* – 5.0
*NH3/NH4* – 1.0
*CO2 level* 56.79 ppm approximately
All in all, ammonia is going down fast and nitrite is very high, very good news. Now I just got to wait till nitrite falls and my tank will then be cycled.  :Jump for joy: 

I have also upgraded my filter to Eheim 2213 and I now have 2.5 litres of Bio Rio and 500ml of activated carbon, shiokness. 



Eheim 2213 comes with a filter basket that holds 5 mechanical filter pads that can double up as biological filter pads and one fine filter pad that goes on top. I am not using this basket and its filter pads, but I will be using the cover of the basket. 



Without the basket, looks just like the big brother to the 2211 but without the green plastic strainer thingy which is soley missed.





In place of the green strainer, I am using Eheim Ecco's fine filter pad, this will prevent my Bio Rio from jamming the inlet to the filter. I can't use the pads that was provided as they were made to fit the basket, so Eheim Ecco's pads fit nicely and just a little tight which is good. I may change to the blue mechnical pad in the future, going to monitor how long these fine filter pads last as it is a real pain to dig out all the Bio Rio just to change the pad at the bottom. Like I've said, I miss the green plastic strainer and only 2213 does not have it.  :Mad: 



2.5 litres of wonderful Bio Rio, this made my day!  :Roll Eyes: 



And finally, 500ml of activated carbon that is due for a change tomorrow. 


The plastic cover goes on top of all that, filter connected and switched on. Perfect. This is as close to a ES-600 as I can go I think..  :Smile:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

Test Results for Day 15 (Saturday, 31/01/2009)

*PH*  6.2
*GH* - Did not test.
*KH*  3
*NO2*  5.0
*NH3/NH4*  0
*CO2 level* 56.79 ppm approximately

NH3/NH4 has finally at zero. NO2 is at the height of my scale at the moment but once it starts to go down, my tank will be cycled.  :Jump for joy: 

Algae has also made its unwanted appearance and I'm having green dust and green thread algae which are easily removed during water change. I have changed out 500ml of activated carbon that was first installed in my filter 2 weeks ago with a fresh 500ml, hopefully this will help with algae control. 

Massive pruning was done two days ago to remove most of the high growing glosso as my photo period was moved 5 hours earlier. Initial glosso response to the new photo period has been encouraging with new shoots growing very low.  :Grin: 

All in all, things are going pretty smoothly with only one or two hiccups, like my filter pipe coming off and half flooding my bedroom  :Opps: 

I would like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who has been with me on this journey and I will continue to update on a regular basis until this tank is decommissioned. THANK YOU ALL!  :Grin:

----------


## StanChung

So you got some first hand experience on something about 'fengshui' stating it's not a good idea for fish tank to be in bedroom.  :Grin:

----------


## Shadow

> 2.5 litres of wonderful Bio Rio, this made my day!


I suggest to put the Bio Rio on net, make it easier to clean the filter later on.

----------


## craftsman

> So you got some first hand experience on something about 'fengshui' stating it's not a good idea for fish tank to be in bedroom.


Theres really such a saying?  :Surprised:

----------


## Shadow

yeah heard that before but doesn't really care  :Razz:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> So you got some first hand experience on something about 'fengshui' stating it's not a good idea for fish tank to be in bedroom.





> yeah heard that before but doesn't really care


Hmm, I have never heard that before but I dun believe in fengshui so I don't care about it too.  :Smile:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> I suggest to put the Bio Rio on net, make it easier to clean the filter later on.


Yeah, I figured out the same thing right after I dumped all the Bio Rio in.  :Roll Eyes: 
I am looking for a good quality net that can last a long time and was wondering if any LFS carries this?

http://www.seachem.com/Products/prod...es/TheBag.html


The current net that I am using for my activated carbon is the normal one and I don't think it will last very long.

----------


## Shadow

I use laundry bag from neighbourhood shop  :Grin:  but need to remove the zipper afraid later rust inside the filter.

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> I use laundy bag from neighbourhood shop  but need to remove the zipper afraid later rust inside the filter.


I was also thinking about that.. those bags are really high quality. But if you remove the zipper, than it can't be opened anymore right?

----------


## Shadow

> I was also thinking about that.. those bags are really high quality. But if you remove the zipper, than it can't be opened anymore right?


I just use cable tie.

----------


## neon

"laundry" meant to be soaked in water, and that what it is for , right ?

I used 2 inside my canister for 4+ years already.

----------


## blue33

Things to take note is the net must not be too small hole in between, it will collect lots of dirts before your Bio-Rio could do the job for you. It'll lead to even more problem later on.  :Smile:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Things to take note is the net must not be too small hole in between, it will collect lots of dirts before your Bio-Rio could do the job for you. It'll lead to even more problem later on.


This is a very good tip. Thanks!  :Wink:

----------


## StanChung

I'm just using the blue sponge to block the 'bio rio' and also double up as mechanical filtration. Pour everything out in to pail and scoop back in after rinsing.

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> I'm just using the blue sponge to block the 'bio rio' and also double up as mechanical filtration. Pour everything out in to pail and scoop back in after rinsing.


Do you think it would be better to use a net and not use the blue sponge?

----------


## JadeIceGreen

Test Results for Day 17 (Monday, 02/02/2009)

*PH* – 6.2
*GH* - Did not test.
*KH* – 2.5
*NO2* – 5.0
*NH3/NH4* – 0
*CO2 level* 47.32 ppm approximately


Green thread/hair algae is a minor problem at the moment but easily removed with a toothbrush. And of all algae that my tank needs to suffer from, thread/hair algae is the easiest to be rid off as Yamato shrimps and SAEs are known to eat them so I'm kind of relieved. 

The one part of the tank that I have been not cleaning till today is my CO2 diffuser, so I broke out my Clean Bottle/Superge and here are some pictures. 





(pardon the flash)

----------


## ghim

A fish tank must have fish. There is really this saying. That's why my 2 fish tanks always have fish. :Laughing: 

Using a net for filter media is more for easy removal. I too find it easier to pout everything out in a pail.

I am using ADA Superge to clean my glass wares. But only realised it is just diluted chlroine water. :Grin:  Nearly bought the ADA Clean Bottle out of vanity, but it is just bottle, thus skipped the purchase.

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> A fish tank must have fish. There is really this saying. That's why my 2 fish tanks always have fish.
> 
> Using a net for filter media is more for easy removal. I too find it easier to pout everything out in a pail.
> 
> I am using ADA Superge to clean my glass wares. But only realised it is just diluted chlroine water. Nearly bought the ADA Clean Bottle out of vanity, but it is just bottle, thus skipped the purchase.


I want to have fish! But I can't..  :Sad:  The tank has not cycled yet, hopefully by this week's end.

Yeah, I know lots of people use other stuffs to clean out their glassware which is much cheaper than Superge, but I wanted to try it out.

Clean Bottle is the cutest but most unnecessary thing I have bought from ADA. But I could not resist since it was so cute and nicely designed, looks great with all my other ADA bottles.  :Grin:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

*Day 18, FTS*

And as you can see, perfect white CO2 diffuser after an overnight bathe in Clean Bottle and Superge.  :Smug:

----------


## StanChung

I got one too. :LOL: My superge is somehow as powerful after a year. Still more than half a bottle left. Did you shorten the glass tip of the CO2 diffusor? Don't recall it being that short.

Filter media with net or without is entirely up to you. I bought the laundry net too but just didn't get round to using it as I decommissioned my 2217 after installing the 2036.

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> I got one too. :LOL: My superge is somehow as powerful after a year. Still more than half a bottle left. Did you shorten the glass tip of the CO2 diffusor? Don't recall it being that short.
> 
> Filter media with net or without is entirely up to you. I bought the laundry net too but just didn't get round to using it as I decommissioned my 2217 after installing the 2036.


My CO2 diffuser comes like that..  :Grin: 

Alright, I'll see if I can get Seachem's net, if I can't, then I will contemplate further.

----------


## Viper007

Bro, your tank is getting nicer liao! Congrats :Smile:

----------


## Shadow

> *Day 18, FTS*
> 
> And as you can see, perfect white CO2 diffuser after an overnight bathe in Clean Bottle and Superge.


expensive version bleach  :Laughing:

----------


## Viper007

> expensive version bleach


That is why we can all appreciate his setup more! :Laughing: 

Keep it up Jade!  :Grin:

----------


## ghim

Time to "Superge" your rocks too! :Grin: 

Will be seeing some trimming in a week's time.

----------


## blue33

Appreciate the exp... stuff only... Sigh...  :Confused:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Bro, your tank is getting nicer liao! Congrats


Thanks!!




> expensive version bleach


eah

Yeah I agree.. But I do love ADA.  :Laughing: 




> That is why we can all appreciate his setup more!
> 
> Keep it up Jade!


You can appreciate even more if we have a "JadeIceGreen fund" in which the aim is for me to own everything ADA.  :Grin: 




> Time to "Superge" your rocks too!
> 
> Will be seeing some trimming in a week's time.


I like rocks with a little of green algae, makes them look nature. But I do brush them daily as well.

----------


## craftsman

Very nice bro... Glosso looks a little too big though for your tank and scape.  :Sad:

----------


## Shadow

> Yeah I agree.. But I do love ADA. 
> 
> I like rocks with a little of green algae, makes them look nature. But I do brush them daily as well.


Me too, love ADA product... have been brain wash by ADA advertisement  :Laughing:  actually the did not advertise a lot (at least not in Singapore), Amano just make a beautiful scape which is worth more than advertisement.

Have you try phyton-git? wonder if it will remove the green spot algae on the rock.

----------


## vwsj84

> Very nice bro... Glosso looks a little too big though for your tank and scape.


Yeah... I also agree with craftsman that Glosso looks a little big and out of place. Maybe HC would have been better. But I always believe that in aquascaping... everyone will have different perspectives on what is nice and what is not nice. That is what keeps this hobby fresh for everyone. If eveyone had the same ideas on what is nice... this would get real boring real fast.  :Kiss: 

Anyway... maybe after a few trimmings the glosso will be nice and compact. However I still think the intensity of light from your 3 arcadia lights are not enough to prevent your glossy from growing upwards and becoming leggy.  :Opps:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Very nice bro... Glosso looks a little too big though for your tank and scape.





> Yeah... I also agree with craftsman that Glosso looks a little big and out of place. Maybe HC would have been better. But I always believe that in aquascaping... everyone will have different perspectives on what is nice and what is not nice. That is what keeps this hobby fresh for everyone. If eveyone had the same ideas on what is nice... this would get real boring real fast. 
> 
> Anyway... maybe after a few trimmings the glosso will be nice and compact. However I still think the intensity of light from your 3 arcadia lights are not enough to prevent your glossy from growing upwards and becoming leggy.


Yeah, I mentioned in previous posts that glosso may have been the wrong choice. But since I've started it, I am going to keep at it and see what happens. So far, it is not so bad in my opinion.

And I am using 4 Arcadia lights, not 3.  :Wink: 




> Me too, love ADA product... have been brain wash by ADA advertisement  actually the did not advertise a lot (at least not in Singapore), Amano just make a beautiful scape which is worth more than advertisement.
> 
> Have you try phyton-git? wonder if it will remove the green spot algae on the rock.


For me, its not so much of the advertisements, but the passion in which ADA researches its products. And the mentality that they have that all equipment must be beautiful as well as being functional. Beautiful equipment to match beautiful scapes.  :Smile: 

I am not going to get phyton-git as I really do not want to spend anymore at the moment. As the scape establishes itself, the algae should go away or be minimized. And I will be getting some algae munching fauna and let nature do its work.

----------


## JadeIceGreen

Test Results for Day 18 (Tuesday, 03/02/2009)

*PH*  6.4
*GH* - Did not test.
*KH*  3
*NO2*  0
*NH3/NH4*  0
*CO2 level* 35.83 ppm approximately

Finally after 18 days, my tank is fully cycled.  :Jump for joy:  :Jump for joy:  :Jump for joy:  What was surprising was that NO2 went from 5 to 0 in one day, pretty amazing to me. Now, my only problems are with thread/hair algae which are threatening to become a big problem.  :Opps:  :Evil: 

PH has also increased to 6.4 on average with a bubble count of one sec. This is a 0.4 increase from the young days when PH was a common 6 at the same bubble count so things are looking good.

----------


## StanChung

One SAE should take care of it for you.

----------


## Viper007

I think one SAE and one oto will be just nice. :Smile:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> One SAE should take care of it for you.





> I think one SAE and one oto will be just nice.


SAEs grow up to 5 inches so they are too big. I was thinking of otos.. What do you guys think?

----------


## weeyang19

> After being inspired by Jervis and EvolutionZ, I decided to have my first go at the hugely popular iwagumi scape too. 
> 
> Of all iwagumi styles, I chose the Sanzon Iwagumi style, here is a short description of it.
> 
> "The most common iwagumi style is called sanzon iwagumi. Sanzon means "three pillar" in Japanese and these aquascapes make use of three rocks, with two smaller rocks and one larger rock. According to the Japanese Architecture and Art Net Users System , this term was first used in the 11th century Japanese garden treatise "Sakuteiki." The grouping of stones comes from Buddhism; the central stone is called the _chuusonskei_ (or the big Buddha) and the smaller flanking stones are called _kyoujiseki_ (or attendant stones). The _kyoujiseki_ are often tilted or pointed towards the _chuusonskei_ as if bowing down to it. The _chuusonskei_ is almost always positioned according to the Golden Rule."
> 
> Credits goes to http://www.aquatic-eden.com/2007/02/...aquariums.html, http://www.aisf.or.jp/~jaanus/deta/s/sanzoniwagumi.htm.
> 
> 
> ...


Wah bro ur set up so special like the Lighting Nice Simple,... How much it cost u for the lighting

----------


## Shadow

> SAEs grow up to 5 inches so they are too big. I was thinking of otos.. What do you guys think?


remove it before it grow too big  :Laughing:  it won't eat algae when they are adult anyway  :Opps:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Wah bro ur set up so special like the Lighting Nice Simple,... How much it cost u for the lighting


I PMed you bro! And thanks so much for the tank, superb job.  :Smile: 




> remove it before it grow too big  it won't eat algae when they are adult anyway


Then cannot.. I don't have another tank re-house them when they are bigger, I will have to get otos then.

----------


## Shadow

Otos only eat limited type of algae, Yamato is much better for hair algae (what algae again in your tank?)

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Otos only eat limited type of algae, Yamato is much better for hair algae (what algae again in your tank?)


Hair and thread algae. Well, I can't get any fauna until Petmart opens again, they are on a long CNY break.

The good news for today is that the algae did increase in quantities last seen the past 3 days. So hopefully since my tank has cycled, the ecosystem has established itself and all the algae will die.

----------


## Viper007

> Hair and thread algae. Well, I can't get any fauna until Petmart opens again, they are on a long CNY break.


Wah like this you have to wait another week man. :Smile:

----------


## blue33

Easy job, dump few Malayan shrimp and in no time, hair algae will be gone. In whole ecosystem different fauna has its job and duties role to play, there's algae and there's sure got shrimp/fauna to do the job, nothing to fear.  :Cool:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Wah like this you have to wait another week man.


Not that bad.. I think they reopen this Friday, I hope they do have fauna stocked after being away for 2 weeks.  :Opps: 




> Easy job, dump few Malayan shrimp and in no time, hair algae will be gone. In whole ecosystem different fauna has its job and duties role to play, there's algae and there's sure got shrimp/fauna to do the job, nothing to fear.


Yup yup, I prefer Yamatos actually and they do not breed. I am still torn between Otos or Yamatos, will decide when Petmart opens again.

----------


## JadeIceGreen

Did not do any testing today as I had a huge fight with the algae and ended up changing 80&#37; of my tank water at the end of it.

What I do want to update is that changing the photo period to the morning and leaving the room light on at night or switching on the tank lights again to view is working. Stan was right in that plants wake up after pure darkness and search for light to photosynthesize. It does not matter how little the light is but as long as its not pure darkness, they start the process and because of that, my glosso has been leggy when with 10 hours of light later on.

But feeding your plants at first light (pun intended, heh), even with ambient lighting after the photo period, glosso still stays low as the plants had had their fill for the day. As least this is my reasoning and so far it works, so I'm happy.

----------


## JadeIceGreen

Test Results for Day 20 (Thursday, 05/02/2009)

*PH*  6.3
*GH* - Did not test.
*KH*  3
*NO2*  0
*NH3/NH4*  0
*CO2 level* 45.11 ppm approximately


All the algae I cleared came back this morning..  :Evil:  :Exasperated:  :Exasperated:  :Exasperated: 

I didn't want to spend 10 minutes daily clearing the never ending algae so I went to buy 12 yamato shrimps from Seaview. 
At first, I only bought 2 yamato shrimps and a nano CO2 diffuser as mine was too big, and this happened. 




X ray mode!



My tank is so full of algae that I realised 2 yamato shrimps will not be enough, so I went back to buy 10 more and the nano CO2 diffuser again.  :Razz: 


Nice right?  :Blah: 



Here is to a clean tank without algae!! Cheers!

----------


## Jervis

Those 12 Yamatos will work wonders  :Laughing:  

Time to post latest FTS  :Smile:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Those 12 Yamatos will work wonders  
> 
> Time to post latest FTS


Sadly two didn't make it although I took an hour to acclimatise them with my tank water, so now its left to 10 mighty algae warriors. 

The algae looked worse this morning but I am going to give the Yamatos some time, aquascaping is all about patience anyway. 

Once my tank is cleared from algae, I will post a FTS as requested by Master Jervis.  :Grin:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

Test Results for Day 21 (Friday, 06/02/2009)

*PH*  6.4
*GH* - Did not test.
*KH*  3
*NO2*  0
*NH3/NH4*  0
*CO2 level* 35.83 ppm approximately


There is still lots of algae in my tank and the Yamatos seem to love my rocks. Lol. They have cleared the biggest rock of all algae on the front side and are tackling the back. I wish they get rid of the algae on my glosso which looks like hairgrass now.  :Shocked:

----------


## ghim

Having hair/thread algae is quite ok. Your yamato shrimps should clear them within 3 days. For me, I will use any of my existing shrimps, as I have quite a few of them.

My glosso is infected with BBA and green spot algae :Grin:  Have to cut, cut and cut.

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Having hair/thread algae is quite ok. Your yamato shrimps should clear them within 3 days. For me, I will use any of my existing shrimps, as I have quite a few of them.
> 
> My glosso is infected with BBA and green spot algae Have to cut, cut and cut.


I do have some green spot on my glass walls, man, those are hard to remove!  :Opps:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

My battle with algae continues! 

My Yamatos have been doing a fine job with the rocks and they are mostly clean. Now I am hoping they will move down to the glosso and start attacking the 2 inches tall algae there.  :Shocked: 

They have been molting on a daily basis and all of them have grown bigger which I am very happy with. Bigger shrimps means more algae consumed. I guess some of the reasons why they have been molting so regularly is plentiful food, cold water (24 degrees) and high GH (about 10).


Clean rock!





I am doing my part together with the Yamatos..  :Razz:

----------


## Viper007

> I do have some green spot on my glass walls, man, those are hard to remove!


Bro, spend $1 on Horned Nerite Snail your GSA will be clear in no time! :Smile: 

It is named after the horn like appendages that protrude outward from the shell. It is a black and yellow striped coloration combining in a swirl patter. The shell of the Horned Nerite Snail is very sturdy and the "horns" are a definitely defense mechanism as they can even poke or prick a human during handling. It is an extremely docile creature and does not bother any other inhabitants. Even though the Horned Nerite Snail is small its algae eating abilities are extraordinary. This snail will clean your tank glass spotless and also clean algae off of rocks and even leaves. Its small size is a great benefit for those who wish to clean algae off of leaves. The Horned Nerite Snail is very lightweight and will not fall off of leaves like other algae eating snails may.

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Bro, spend $1 on Horned Nerite Snail your GSA will be clear in no time!
> 
> It is named after the horn like appendages that protrude outward from the shell. It is a black and yellow striped coloration combining in a swirl patter. The shell of the Horned Nerite Snail is very sturdy and the "horns" are a definitely defense mechanism as they can even poke or prick a human during handling. It is an extremely docile creature and does not bother any other inhabitants. Even though the Horned Nerite Snail is small its algae eating abilities are extraordinary. This snail will clean your tank glass spotless and also clean algae off of rocks and even leaves. Its small size is a great benefit for those who wish to clean algae off of leaves. The Horned Nerite Snail is very lightweight and will not fall off of leaves like other algae eating snails may.


I did thought of getting a snail, but I want to keep things as simple as possible first since my scape is meant to be relaxing. I don't really know how to explain this but seeing a snail on my tank wall somehow does not seem to fit into my vision for the scape.  :Wink: 

So far, my main problems are the thread/hair algae. Green spot algae are far in between and easily removed.

----------


## craftsman

> I did thought of getting a snail, but I want to keep things as simple as possible first since my scape is meant to be relaxing. I don't really know how to explain this but seeing a snail on my tank wall somehow does not seem to fit into my vision for the scape. 
> 
> So far, my main problems are the thread/hair algae. Green spot algae are far in between and easily removed.


Bro, ... Viper also felt distaste for snails. But even though he expressed his opinions about snails, he still became a convert after he put in 2 snails.  :Grin:  :Grin:  Now he is singing their praises! Ha ha ha ha ha  :Blah:  :Jump for joy:

----------


## Viper007

> I did thought of getting a snail, but I want to keep things as simple as possible first since my scape is meant to be relaxing. I don't really know how to explain this but seeing a snail on my tank wall somehow does not seem to fit into my vision for the scape. 
> 
> So far, my main problems are the thread/hair algae. Green spot algae are far in between and easily removed.


Well on men's meat is another men's poison.... Like craftsman said I actually dislike snails... But happen to find nerite snails beautiful... Yellow and black like a bumble bee very cool. Well do what you think is best for your tank. Cheers :Smile: 




> Bro, ... Viper also felt distaste for snails. But even though he expressed his opinions about snails, he still became a convert after he put in 2 snails.  Now he is singing their praises! Ha ha ha ha ha


YES yes yes  :Jump for joy:

----------


## Shadow

I try 2 nerite snails, it does not clean my rock from GSA. One of it after few days burrier its self. Not sure why do that but since it does not move after a week, I just take it out and throw it away. The other one went missing, probably did the same some where  :Opps: 

Water chemistry problem? low pH (around 6.2)? but my yamato and sakura are all ok

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> I try 2 nerite snails, it does not clean my rock from GSA. One of it after few days burrier its self. Not sure why do that but since it does not move after a week, I just take it out and throw it away. The other one went missing, probably did the same some where 
> 
> Water chemistry problem? low pH (around 6.2)? but my yamato and sakura are all ok


Wow, when it dug itself, did it disturb your foreground plants? It will be terrible if that happened to me!  :Opps: 


Test Results for Day 23 (Sunday, 08/02/2009)

*PH*  6.5
*GH* - Did not test.
*KH*  3
*NO2*  0
*NH3/NH4*  0
*CO2 level* 28.46 ppm approximately


Test Results for Day 24 (Monday, 09/02/2009)

*PH*  6.4
*GH* - Did not test.
*KH*  3
*NO2*  0
*NH3/NH4*  0
*CO2 level* 35.83 ppm approximately

----------


## blue33

Wow... Didnt know need to test so much. I just whack and the plant just grow, never really test except PH only.  :Grin:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Wow... Didnt know need to test so much. I just whack and the plant just grow, never really test except PH only.


Actually, there is no need for daily testing. I am just doing so to understand my water chemistry better like what I do will affect what kind of changes. Also, I am building up the discipline that a high maintenance nano tank needs as my fauna are going to be fussy about water parameters.  :Opps: 


Test Results for Day 25 (Tuesday, 10/02/2009)

*PH* – 6.4
*GH* - Did not test.
*KH* – 3
*NO2* – 0
*NH3/NH4* – 0
*CO2 level* 35.83 ppm approximately

----------


## Shadow

maybe you should plot in on excel, easier to read  :Laughing: 

From there you can see when the NH4 peak, or when does you algae start growing, what is your parameter at that time. or something like that

----------


## Kekwa

> Bro, spend $1 on Horned Nerite Snail your GSA will be clear in no time!
> 
> It is named after the horn like appendages that protrude outward from the shell. It is a black and yellow striped coloration combining in a swirl patter. The shell of the Horned Nerite Snail is very sturdy and the "horns" are a definitely defense mechanism as they can even poke or prick a human during handling. It is an extremely docile creature and does not bother any other inhabitants. Even though the Horned Nerite Snail is small its algae eating abilities are extraordinary. This snail will clean your tank glass spotless and also clean algae off of rocks and even leaves. Its small size is a great benefit for those who wish to clean algae off of leaves. The Horned Nerite Snail is very lightweight and will not fall off of leaves like other algae eating snails may.


Hi Bro, where can I get this Horned Nerite Snail? Saw a tank full of snails at C328. Are those the ones? Post a picture if possible. Thanks.

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> maybe you should plot in on excel, easier to read 
> 
> From there you can see when the NH4 peak, or when does you algae start growing, what is your parameter at that time. or something like that


Wah, that will be a little extreme.. haha.
I am not as hardworking as that.  :Grin:

----------


## Viper007

> Hi Bro, where can I get this Horned Nerite Snail? Saw a tank full of snails at C328. Are those the ones? Post a picture if possible. Thanks.


Yes C328 is selling..... but there are 2 to 3 types of snails in there. Get the one that is yellow in colour with black strips. Like a bee in colour. :Smile:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

On day 28, my fauna is finally here!!!  :Jump for joy:  :Jump for joy:  :Jump for joy: 

All my preparation and planning has been for this day when my CRS will occupy a home I created for them. I have never kept CRS before and did a lot of reading up before deciding to take the plunge, one hour into having them, they are well worth it. So so pretty!  :Grin: 

I will getting another 10 on Monday to bring it up to a total of 20. So my final fauna stocking list is 20 CRS, 10 Yamatos and 3 Otos.






I have also removed all activated carbon from my 2213. It is now filled with a sweet 3 litres worth of Bio Rio is a nice fine net.

The Algae Battle has also been won with my Yamatos maintaining the level of new algae and myself spending the last one week cleaning up every hair/thread algae.

From here, I am crossing my fingers that my CRS will breed and establish a colony. They are partly the reason why I wanted as much filter media as possible, and why I did all the paranoid daily testing.


I guess this is offically, the end of my journal and looking back at 28 days, what a ride it has been. From spending 3 hours choosing rocks and arranging the hardscape to upgrading my filter and learning the hard way how it all works, this is a journey I have enjoyed through the good, the bad and the sweaty times.  :Wink: 

*Thanks all* for following along and all those valuable comments and advice that taught me so much. I will continue to give periodic updates and I hope that if I do another scape, it will be a much better one.

----------


## Viper007

> I guess this is offically, the end of my journal and looking back at 28 days, what a ride it has been. From spending 3 hours choosing rocks and arranging the hardscape to upgrading my filter and learning the hard way how it all works, this is a journey I have enjoyed through the good, the bad and the sweaty times. 
> 
> *Thanks all* for following along and all those valuable comments and advice that taught me so much. I will continue to give periodic updates and I hope that if I do another scape, it will be a much better one.


Huh pls don't end here... I still want to see a mature tank with CRS breeding too. :Smile:

----------


## zoombee

> Huh pls don't end here... I still want to see a mature tank with CRS breeding too.


i was wondering if the shrimplets will get sucked into the inlet glass pipe or not....looks like it will....normally we cover with a sponge..but for glass pipes it will look ugly

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Huh pls don't end here... I still want to see a mature tank with CRS breeding too.


Me too!! I want to see a mature tank that breeds CRS!  :Grin: 




> i was wondering if the shrimplets will get sucked into the inlet glass pipe or not....looks like it will....normally we cover with a sponge..but for glass pipes it will look ugly


This question has to ask Jervis liao.  :Smile: 


Ermm, I need help with the rest of my algae. Can anyone help my identify this algae and if Otos and shrimps eat it.

----------


## ah^siao

This is just normal brown algae. Otos will just do the job.

----------


## Viper007

> i was wondering if the shrimplets will get sucked into the inlet glass pipe or not....looks like it will....normally we cover with a sponge..but for glass pipes it will look ugly


Actually no worries the shrimplets will not swim all the way to the glass pipe it will remain carefully hidding in the forground plants. Btw that's my experience with Sherry shrimps. :Smile:

----------


## Jervis

Those algae look pretty nasty! You can use a siphoning air hose to suck them off manually... probably the most effective way to combat them.

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> This is just normal brown algae. Otos will just do the job.


Thanks for the info.




> Actually no worries the shrimplets will not swim all the way to the glass pipe it will remain carefully hidding in the forground plants. Btw that's my experience with Sherry shrimps.


Yeah quite true, and the inlet slits are really narrow as Jervis has shown us.




> Those algae look pretty nasty! You can use a siphoning air hose to suck them off manually... probably the most effective way to combat them.


I have been clearing some daily but I can't clear all of them easily so I am hoping Otos do eat them as I do not want them to stave to death as I am not feeding any of my fauna for the moment in an effort to make them eat the algae.

----------


## fishpoo

your yamatos and crs don't eat the algae? 
by the way are you still dosing ferts while your crs are in there?

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> your yamatos and crs don't eat the algae? 
> by the way are you still dosing ferts while your crs are in there?


Oh they do.. but I guess my algae multiplies to fast for them to make an impact? The good thing is that the algae is not getting out of hand, its diminishing slowly.

Yes I am still dosing ferts, ADA ones.

----------


## ghim

I am seeing green spot algae and brown algae. Put in more yamato or malayan, they are more hard working. Cherries will only work hard if you starve them :Grin:  CRS are pamper lot, selective eating. Oto is very disturbing for small tanks. 

If not cut some of the leaves away. PL light seems very limiting in penetration. My 18W PL for my 30cm cube allows only 2-3layers of glosso, then the bottom will become yellow. But even at this wattage, GSA is growing on the matured leaves.

Are those area's light blocked by the rocks? Do some trimming, it will help the glosso to grow nicer. Some of the leaves are already matured and yellowing.

And at least your brown algae is edible by algae eaters. Mine is alway BBA, staghorn algae and GSA. :Sad:  From thick lawn, every now and then, cut, cut and becomes crew cut again.

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> I am seeing green spot algae and brown algae. Put in more yamato or malayan, they are more hard working. Cherries will only work hard if you starve them CRS are pamper lot, selective eating. Oto is very disturbing for small tanks. 
> 
> If not cut some of the leaves away. PL light seems very limiting in penetration. My 18W PL for my 30cm cube allows only 2-3layers of glosso, then the bottom will become yellow. But even at this wattage, GSA is growing on the matured leaves.
> 
> Are those area's light blocked by the rocks? Do some trimming, it will help the glosso to grow nicer. Some of the leaves are already matured and yellowing.
> 
> And at least your brown algae is edible by algae eaters. Mine is alway BBA, staghorn algae and GSA. From thick lawn, every now and then, cut, cut and becomes crew cut again.


I am withholding from getting more Yamatos (10 young ones in there at the moment) as I do not want to over stock and plan to keep about 80 CRS in my tank in time to come. I will continue clearing the algae manually and hope for the best, so far from what I can see, its slowly getting lesser by the day.

So far, my light is awesome and all the glosso are growing nice and low. Surprisingly those glosso that are just under the rocks are growing the best, nice and green, free of algae.

----------


## Viper007

> So far, my light is awesome and all the glosso are growing nice and low. Surprisingly those glosso that are just under the rocks are growing the best, nice and green, free of algae.


Photo leh!!!!!! I want to see!!!  :Razz:

----------


## torque6

The algae posted on this page looks like brown thread, theres a difference between diatoms and thread algae. Thread are much harder to siphon out.

I've been following this 12 page journal for some time and in my opinion, if the initial setup for any tanks is done correctly, the next 10-16 weeks should be void of any algae considering all things being well balanced. Considering a tank with only glosso ? and hairgrass, with an absence of fast growing stem plants, a better method would be to go 12-16 weeks emmersed form first before flooding the tank. Unless of course, you are already covering 95&#37; of the tank bed with glosso and hairgrass till its packed, then yes, you might not have too much issue.

However, to continue adding fauna to manage algae doesn't resolve your underlying problem.

----------


## Ken Lim

does reducing the duration of lighting help?

----------


## Jervis

> does reducing the duration of lighting help?


Yes... tremendously  :Smile:

----------


## Shadow

My opinion, depend on the algae. Black out is not effective agains BBA  :Opps:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Photo leh!!!!!! I want to see!!!


Cannot.. whole tank perfect then can show the final FTS. Heh.




> Yes... tremendously


I am afraid that if I reduce my photo period, my glosso will grow leggy again. Anyway, I will try to reduce to 9 hours and see how.

----------


## JadeIceGreen

Just a pictorial update because it is rare to see 4 of my CRS out in the open.  :Smile: 




And also, this is my current fert and water change regime.

*Daily - At the beginning of photo period*
ADA Brightly K - 1ml
ADA Green Brightly Step 2 - 1ml
ADA Green Brightly Special Lights - 1ml

10&#37; water change after photo period using RO water.
50% water change once a week using RO water.

Algae has lessen after I started adding Lights at the start of this week.

----------


## Jervis

I didn't know you are into CRS too! Nice shot!!! Now faster show us your FTS!!!

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> I didn't know you are into CRS too! Nice shot!!! Now faster show us your FTS!!!


Yeah, I bought 10 CRS some weeks ago in one of my older posts. 

Cannot! I will only show FTS when the tank is perfect.. haha. If you really want to see then you would have to come over.  :Grin:

----------


## Jervis

> If you really want to see then you would have to come over.


Sounds inviting  :Roll Eyes:  :Roll Eyes:  :Roll Eyes:

----------


## blackBRUSHalgae

> If you really want to see then you would have to come over.



Does that applies to everyone of us here?  ::smt040:

----------


## blue33

ADA door gift?  :Roll Eyes:

----------


## ghim

Arcadia door gift pack? :Angel:  With CRS thrown in. :Idea:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Sounds inviting





> Does that applies to everyone of us here?





> ADA door gift?





> Arcadia door gift pack? With CRS thrown in.


ADA door gift can.. FREE ADA Manuals! And this "open house" only applies to those that I meet tomorrow. Haha.  :Wink: 

My house only got one tank, not fun or worth the trip. Lets all go to Jervis office!! Got 4 tanks to view!  :Grin:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

Another pictorial update to share.
I love my CRS. Heh.

----------


## Jervis

> Lets all go to Jervis office!! Got 4 tanks to view!


Excuse me... I think I have 7 tanks!  :Laughing:  :Laughing:  :Laughing:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Excuse me... I think I have 7 tanks!


That time 4 tanks.. heh.  :Grin: 
7 tanks, I don't even know how to start maintaining 7 tanks..  :Shocked:

----------


## johannes

any full tank shot update?

btw maybe you can try cutting down on your lighting or try to find the balance to reduce algae growth

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> any full tank shot update?
> 
> btw maybe you can try cutting down on your lighting or try to find the balance to reduce algae growth


Not full tank shot till maybe June... 

Algae has improve somewhat, now its much more manageable. It should be completely gone when AS has finally run out of nutrients, I think my mistake was to put too much AS when doing this scape.

Also most likely, 4x9 watts is too much, but 3x9 watts is too little so I've learnt my lesson. The next time I am using an ADA dimension tank, I will use the lighting that they recommend.  :Smile:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

Now that the competition is over, I am decomming this tank so this is the FTS. Thanks to everyone again for their invaluable advice in setting up Sanzon Iwagumi and hopefully my next project will be sometime this year.  :Smile:  

This tank has ended on a very happy note, after struggling so long with algae, there is totally no trace of it for the last few weeks. What I did was to add 5 times the amount of ADA Step 2 and double the amount of Brightly K as per ADA's daily recommendations. Another reason to decom is because 4x9w are really not ideal, glosso still grows quite tall as the intensity is just not there. But all in all, this has been a personal success for me.

Special thanks to Blue33 for helping me get this far.

----------


## amedias

Muy bonito enhorabuena.

----------


## fireblade

its a pity to see it go..  :Sad: 
but thats life.. come and go..

----------


## blue33

Well done!  :Well done:  You did it yourself, i just provided some tips only.  :Grin:  Although glosso growing upwards but it matches the style and scape of this tank, well done on the trimming part.  :Well done:

----------


## fireblade

you are the man sifu!!  :Smile: 




> Well done!  You did it yourself, i just provided some tips only.  Although glosso growing upwards but it matches the style and scape of this tank, well done on the trimming part.

----------


## blue33

> you are the man sifu!!


huh...  :Embarassed:  :Embarassed:  :Embarassed: ...  :Smile:  I just wish everyone would be successful and enjoy this wonderful hobby.  :Kiss:

----------


## fireblade

provide he/she listen to you and change filter hehe ..

----------


## blue33

LOL!  :Laughing:  You caught me red handed.  ::smt062: ... Sorie to hijack your thread.  :Opps:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

Wah, fireblade also know that you advice me to change the layout of my filter. Lol.
Yeah, I like the glosso growing upwards for this scape, but that will mean that I will have to attempt a proper carpet sometime in the future!

This is the reason why AQ is great, I would have never learnt so many lessons about scaping and maintenance if not for everyone's help here.

----------


## blue33

No! What fireblade mean is his filter is not good for his tank. I ask fireblade to change his filter lar... I didnt tell him about your filter hor...  :Grin:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> No! What fireblade mean is his filter is not good for his tank. I ask fireblade to change his filter lar... I didnt tell him about your filter hor...


Oh, lol.. haha, anyway, fireblade listen to blue33.. My ph stablised after his advice.  :Smile:

----------


## fireblade

yes I am working hard to get my filter to work.. :P

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> yes I am working hard to get my filter to work.. :P


All the best!  :Smile:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

Hmmm....

----------


## kevinicus

i see algae :/
what steps have you been taking to combat it?

----------


## Shadow

I thought you dismantle this tank already

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> i see algae :/
> what steps have you been taking to combat it?


I think you are looking at glosso reflected on the tank wall.. it looks burry.




> I thought you dismantle this tank already


Not yet, no one wants it..  :Opps:

----------


## Cloud-Strife

Jade used macro mode is it ?

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Jade used macro mode is it ?


No.. haha. How come no one wondered why there is such a big hole with no plants in it when my tank has already been running for 4 months plus?  :Wink: 
(Time Flies!!)

----------


## Shadow

I thought intentional  :Razz:  or mabe just removed the rock

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> I thought intentional  or mabe just removed the rock


Yeah I removed a rock and I feel that the overall scape improved, should have done it before the competition.  :Laughing: 

Will show a FTS once the plants grow in.  :Smile:

----------


## JadeIceGreen

Here is an update..
Really sorry about the white balance, I can't wait to stop using a digital camera.  :Sad:

----------


## Captain Telecredible

The grow of your glosso is really thumbs up. Very thick, lush just. Everything is nicely done just that i feel that the stones and the ratio is abit weird. Just in my own opinion bro. And i really like the clarity of your water. No faunas other than shrimps and sae? Nicely done anyway.

Cheers,
kenneth

----------


## StanChung

There's nothing wrong with the white balance. If you don't want the wall to turn green, just move the tank away from the wall by at least 30cm.

You can see the ceramic diffuser and the water line is pretty much clean from strong colour cast. It's the the glosso reflecting onto the wall causing the green spill.

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> The grow of your glosso is really thumbs up. Very thick, lush just. Everything is nicely done just that i feel that the stones and the ratio is abit weird. Just in my own opinion bro. And i really like the clarity of your water. No faunas other than shrimps and sae? Nicely done anyway.
> 
> Cheers,
> kenneth


I agree with the stones, I'll get better ones when I rescape in the future.  :Smile: 
Shrimps and Otos only. 




> There's nothing wrong with the white balance. If you don't want the wall to turn green, just move the tank away from the wall by at least 30cm.
> 
> You can see the ceramic diffuser and the water line is pretty much clean from strong colour cast. It's the the glosso reflecting onto the wall causing the green spill.


I thought there was an issue with the white balance as my glosso looks more wash out then in real life. Any advice on that?

----------


## BuTLeR

> Here is an update..
> Really sorry about the white balance, I can't wait to stop using a digital camera.


hey bro .. thats a wonderful setup and nice scape .. ..

----------


## Cloud-Strife

wow! how does the glosso climb to so high behind the main rock?

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> hey bro .. thats a wonderful setup and nice scape .. ..


Thank you.




> wow! how does the glosso climb to so high behind the main rock?


Its grew tall when I was only using 3x9w. Since it looked kind of nice with the vivipara, I have let it stay tall.  :Smile:

----------


## StanChung

Wash out-means it's over exposed. 
But I think it looks ok. Glosso does look brighter when shot because it's a lighter green colour. Just like off white sand looks white in photos.

Unfortunately if you darken the picture your rocks will turn black and 'detail-less'.

----------


## StanChung

Wash out-means it's over exposed. 
But I think it looks ok. Glosso does look brighter when shot because it's a lighter green colour. Just like off white sand looks white in photos.

Unfortunately if you darken the picture your rocks will turn black and 'detail-less'.

----------


## Cloud-Strife

Does your tank previously have algae problem?

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Does your tank previously have algae problem?


Yeah.. Major algae problem that lasted almost three months.

----------


## JadeIceGreen

Here are some sakura shrimplets, about 2 weeks old and around twenty all together.

----------


## Cloud-Strife

how do u differentiate sakura with cherry shrimp ?

----------


## nickLee

I think that cherries redden with age but i heard from somewhere that true sakuras have red legs

----------


## ahadina

Does your sakura shrimp breed 100% true? All of the offspring are dark red?

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> how do u differentiate sakura with cherry shrimp ?





> I think that cherries redden with age but i heard from somewhere that true sakuras have red legs





> Does your sakura shrimp breed 100% true? All of the offspring are dark red?


For me personally, it is the intensity of red that is found on the shrimps. I don't know if the legs must be red to qualify as one, maybe an expert could answer that.  :Smile: 

From my experience, sakuras breed true.

----------


## unholy1

Hello, i wld like to know the cost of the chiller. THanks

----------


## Cloud-Strife

I also have a bunch of cherry shrimps ... They are very red. When I compared with sakura shrimp in LFS, they looks the same. So now I'm also confuse whether I'm keeping sakura or cherry shrimps.

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> Hello, i wld like to know the cost of the chiller. THanks


PMed you..




> I also have a bunch of cherry shrimps ... They are very red. When I compared with sakura shrimp in LFS, they looks the same. So now I'm also confuse whether I'm keeping sakura or cherry shrimps.


If they look very red like a Sakura, then its Sakura.  :Wink:

----------


## fishy80

hi, i am new here. can i check if your GH is high for your tank. I just added in some 10 sakuras into my planted tank and decided to run a GH test. Its very high, 18 goodness. Is it because of liquid ferts that i have added?

----------


## kensaiz

so sad my eheim is mistakenly thrown away. now using some stupid one tat make so much noise

----------


## JadeIceGreen

> hi, i am new here. can i check if your GH is high for your tank. I just added in some 10 sakuras into my planted tank and decided to run a GH test. Its very high, 18 goodness. Is it because of liquid ferts that i have added?


Ferts do not contribute to GH levels from what I know. 




> so sad my eheim is mistakenly thrown away. now using some stupid one tat make so much noise


Why not get a new one? When it comes to filters, I find that buying a good brand like Eheim pays off in the long run. Not only are water parameters kept stable with good filtration, noise is not a factor and your filter last years.

----------


## Bster

Updates please!

----------

