# Planted Tanks > Fertilisation and Algae >  green beard and hair algae help!

## Jovel

Hey guys! i seems like some green beard and hair algae is growing on my rocks and side of the soil, and green fuzzy hair on my hc. how do i remove them safely and stop them from growing? I got some crs in my tank which I dont want to risk chemicals... pls help!

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## Kyrojinx

I also had that problem. Couldn't get rid of totally. To limit it's growth I cut down feeding to twice a week and lowered lighting period to 4 hrs daily. But one idea from a thread I read was to use a toothbrush. Brushed it against problem areas and twirl around gently. That helped remove quite a bit from my fissidens. IMO was pretty effective

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## weijie1986

will adding 2 yamato helps?
i treat my BBA problem by using yamato and SAE
Cant really just count on Otto alone

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## Jovel

hmm, i alrdy got 3 ottos and 4 yamatos in the tank but they aint doing crap haha! but my 4 nerites are actually eating them o.o 

the thing is i also want to know how to control them without risking an algae bloom, and it seems to be spreading little fuzzy hairs on my hc which the nerites dont seem to bother to climb onto the patch. hmm.

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## Shadow

Unfortunately ottos will not eat any algae except brown algae or diatoms. Pick your algae crew wisely  :Grin:

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## Navanod

Quick way:
Overdose Seachem excel for a few days. Use the dose recommended for after a water change instead of the usual dose. Stop if the HC starts to turn yellow.

Slow way:
Throw in frogbits and hornworts to soak up excess nutrients and compete with the algae and try to balance the NPK ratio back to the recommended EI doses.

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## Jovel

> Quick way:
> Overdose Seachem excel for a few days. Use the dose recommended for after a water change instead of the usual dose. Stop if the HC starts to turn yellow.
> 
> Slow way:
> Throw in frogbits and hornworts to soak up excess nutrients and compete with the algae and try to balance the NPK ratio back to the recommended EI doses.


Im using borneowild growth which is liquid carbon, with some other trace elements like calcium and magnesium, i suppose its the same right? just afraid that my crs cant take it. 

threw some duckweeds and frogbits in there already, how do i know whether NPK ratio is ok?

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## Navanod

Yea, its very tricky once you have CRS in the tank...
Erm, I wouldn't recommend duckweeds...they're a bigger headache than algae!

Are you dosing any other macro nutrient ferts?
NPK ratio can be tested using test kits for Nitrate (try to keep within 30ppm, anything more is algae food and is bad for shrimps) & Phosphate (1-2ppm). When P is deficient, most other algae stops growing and green spot algae starts taking over from my limited experience. I am quite happy to deal with only the green spots. At least they can be scrubbed off and snails eat them, but most of the other plants will also stop growing so its not a long term solution to limit P.

K is kinda fuzzy to test for but plant growth kinda stops or slows significantly if K is deficient. I use my hornwort as a way of telling. The hornwort normally grows like crazy even without CO2 and require frequent trimming, so if they suddenly slows down, something is wrong. You can probably use frogbits too for this purpose. The good thing about potassium is that it is not very toxic to shrimps so we can safely just add according to the instructions without worrying too much about overdosing. I've not heard of a high K contributing to algae bloom either. If you are able to calculate your K dosing, try to maintain 10-30ppm.

Concentrate on getting your plant mass to grow and grow healthily, thats the best way to prevent algae, through competition from healthy plants. In the beginning, when your HC mass is low, you can add fast growing plants that are easy to remove later, such as frogbit. I strongly suggest you decide whether the tank is for CRS or for HC and get rid of the other. I had been able to maintain both in my scape for about a year but it was back breaking work and in the end I removed most of the CRS as they were not breeding well. The HC was gone recently due to stoppage of power supply for 3 times of 12 hours each (to service the aging switchboard for the block). Everything melted. haiz...

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## Jovel

> Yea, its very tricky once you have CRS in the tank...
> Erm, I wouldn't recommend duckweeds...they're a bigger headache than algae!
> 
> Are you dosing any other macro nutrient ferts?
> NPK ratio can be tested using test kits for Nitrate (try to keep within 30ppm, anything more is algae food and is bad for shrimps) & Phosphate (1-2ppm). When P is deficient, most other algae stops growing and green spot algae starts taking over from my limited experience. I am quite happy to deal with only the green spots. At least they can be scrubbed off and snails eat them, but most of the other plants will also stop growing so its not a long term solution to limit P.
> 
> K is kinda fuzzy to test for but plant growth kinda stops or slows significantly if K is deficient. I use my hornwort as a way of telling. The hornwort normally grows like crazy even without CO2 and require frequent trimming, so if they suddenly slows down, something is wrong. You can probably use frogbits too for this purpose. The good thing about potassium is that it is not very toxic to shrimps so we can safely just add according to the instructions without worrying too much about overdosing. I've not heard of a high K contributing to algae bloom either. If you are able to calculate your K dosing, try to maintain 10-30ppm.
> 
> Concentrate on getting your plant mass to grow and grow healthily, thats the best way to prevent algae, through competition from healthy plants. In the beginning, when your HC mass is low, you can add fast growing plants that are easy to remove later, such as frogbit. I strongly suggest you decide whether the tank is for CRS or for HC and get rid of the other. I had been able to maintain both in my scape for about a year but it was back breaking work and in the end I removed most of the CRS as they were not breeding well. The HC was gone recently due to stoppage of power supply for 3 times of 12 hours each (to service the aging switchboard for the block). Everything melted. haiz...


Thanks for the great advice! Yea I must say my CRS are all bought on impulse to beautify the scape, and they have been dying recently. argh heartache. i should have focus on growing the scape instead. i have been worrying if my ferts that is killing the CRS, and i have been underdosing recently. Macros are elements like iron and stuff right? I do add Borneowild Boost A into the soil, which states that "containing 70 kinds of immediate and slow release macronutrients, nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium, that stimulate plant growth, ensure proper balance and improves nutrient uptake" but so far my hc growth still isn't good at all. argh. Algae + CRS dying + HC browning. AHHH.

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## felix_fx2

New setup? Yamatos + Oto may help

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## barmby

Good to hear some experience from navanod

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## xconnect.

well i bought a wire mesh from a bro in arofanatics unfortunately it had the green hair algae. the next day i took it the threw it away. i think that is the best and a quick method unless the green hair had affected all or most of your plants then all the bestXD but if u want to save yamato shrimps to me better.

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## Shadow

since it on the wire mesh, you can save it by black out. Just take it out from your tank put in container and leave it in the total darkness for 3 days.

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## barmby

how about bleach bath? i don't know as I have not tried it. just my thinking

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## Shadow

o... thought the metal mesh with plant on it  :Opps:

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## Jovel

> New setup? Yamatos + Oto may help


my original algae team consists of 4 yamatos, 3 otos, and 4 horned nerites, doing pretty good until the short green fuzzy hair starts to grow, now its growing on the soil. too much light? I'm currently cycling another tank now so i can house those sensitive CRS away, and I'll repeat my regular dosage again.

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## Left C

Are yamatos the same thing as Amano shrimp (Caridina multidentata)? I just read an article in the new July-Sept 2011 issue of 'The Aquatic Gardener' by Ole Pedersen called" Grazing Control." He went on to say that Amano shrimp are the best for algal control including filamentous algae. He recommended 2 per 10L in startup and 1 per 10L for long term maintenance. Also he mentions that the Odessa barb (Puntius padamya) tends to take on filamentous algae such as Cladophora, Spirogyra and others.

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## Tony

> Are yamatos the same thing as Amano shrimp (Caridina multidentata)? I just read an article in the new July-Sept 2011 issue of 'The Aquatic Gardener' by Ole Pedersen called" Grazing Control." He went on to say that Amano shrimp are the best for algal control including filamentous algae. He recommended 2 per 10L in startup and 1 per 10L for long term maintenance. Also he mentions that the Odessa barb (Puntius padamya) tends to take on filamentous algae such as Cladophora, Spirogyra and others.


Hi bro, yes yamato and amano shrimp are referring to the same thing. In local fish shop here, yamato shrimp is commonly used.

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## Left C

Thanks! I thought that yamatoes are Amano shrimp.

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## felix_fx2

> my original algae team consists of 4 yamatos, 3 otos, and 4 horned nerites, doing pretty good until the short green fuzzy hair starts to grow, now its growing on the soil. too much light? I'm currently cycling another tank now so i can house those sensitive CRS away, and I'll repeat my regular dosage again.


It's always one of the few common factors, Photoperiod (lighting) / Light quality or intensity / nutrient balance (your fert regime).
E.G: when i started glosso lawn it was great until i saw hair algae. i split and shorten photo period from 8HR to 4HR+4HR, after 6 mths i went NS for 3 weeks (so my fert regime went offline) and hair algae came back with a vengence. now the tank decomm LOL

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## Jovel

> It's always one of the few common factors, Photoperiod (lighting) / Light quality or intensity / nutrient balance (your fert regime).
> E.G: when i started glosso lawn it was great until i saw hair algae. i split and shorten photo period from 8HR to 4HR+4HR, after 6 mths i went NS for 3 weeks (so my fert regime went offline) and hair algae came back with a vengence. now the tank decomm LOL


Lol. so splitting the photo period works?

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## Azeric9013

My way of countering this problem beside having sufficient algae crew, I switch off the co2 for a week and also turn off the light for 3 full day, hair algae was eliminated

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## Jovel

can anyone id this? green beard?

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## o2bubble

I would suggest to increase co2, overdose excel by 3 times (one dose is enough for 1 week) followed by 50% water change. Most of the algae should be gone by end of 1 week. Remember to add yamato and malayan shrimps to clear the dead alage.

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## felix_fx2

> Lol. so splitting the photo period works?


Ya. Apparently a full photo period takes less then a day. I free go find a wiki link give you.

Most people will just shorten it an hour.

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## Jovel

> Ya. Apparently a full photo period takes less then a day. I free go find a wiki link give you.
> 
> Most people will just shorten it an hour.


thanks alot felix! shorten it an hour already, now all i got is those clump of algae which i dunno what is it haha.

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## felix_fx2

> thanks alot felix! shorten it an hour already, now all i got is those clump of algae which i dunno what is it haha.


If it's in a mass big enough to hand remove then just manual remove. Too small it will be a painful experience to manually do it, algae growth can be also naturally deterred if your plants are doing well & water parameters well maintained.

There's alot methods mentioned in forum to rid of outbreak "fast" Nuke with h2o2 (extreme one lol) , Excell nuke, co2 level blasting (personally I don't like this) also a tank blackout method for a extended time.(I believe it was for green spot algae)

Do a lookup in forum, you'll likely see alot people asking for help  :Smile:

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## felix_fx2

Just remebered i said to post the link

The general term
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photoperiodism

However, i think in another fourm (nonlocal) someone made a calculator. 
http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/f...1st-draft.html

Last link , a general guide to removal and cause of your green fiends.. (not friends. hee)
http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/algae.htm

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## marcusth

I gave in to green hair algae after 4months of battle with it....decom the tank totally including the soil  :Sad: (

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## Jovel

> Just remebered i said to post the link
> 
> The general term
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photoperiodism
> 
> However, i think in another fourm (nonlocal) someone made a calculator. 
> http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/f...1st-draft.html
> 
> Last link , a general guide to removal and cause of your green fiends.. (not friends. hee)
> http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/algae.htm


interesting. thanks for the links! hair algae all gone, but those bushy algaes keep grow on my rocks. pretty nice actually, just afraid that they take over the tank. hmm.

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## Fishy Business

> I gave in to green hair algae after 4months of battle with it....decom the tank totally including the soil (


Sad to hear that.. Light,CO2,Liquid Fert are the common problems to green hair. Once water is stable and going, with densely planted aquarium, it would solve the problem.

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## felix_fx2

actually if some of them will, but do not keep don't keep a algae lawn... it's super hard to mantain...
Best that you can ID the type of algae it is, you can keep it under control.

P.S: i am having a algae lawn from beard algae (Cladophora algae), looks nice when under control... looks like crap when never trim... the texture kind of reminds me moss...

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## romster

> I also had that problem. Couldn't get rid of totally. To limit it's growth I cut down feeding to twice a week and lowered lighting period to 4 hrs daily. But one idea from a thread I read was to use a toothbrush. Brushed it against problem areas and twirl around gently. That helped remove quite a bit from my fissidens. IMO was pretty effective


 I tried the toothbrush but I cannot seem to get the hair algae off the moss. Maybe some of it got twirled but most of it remains.

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## tweakmax2

yamato will help

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## felix_fx2

> yamato will help


I don't fully agree.
My yamato don't eat my beard algae, that's why the lawn. I since remove 70% of them and added my all time fav. Glosso alright.

Btw, 6 Oto, 4 Yamato, around 30 shrimps & 4 golden algae eaters.
Wall is cleaned of algae. They didn't like beard. Didn't see hair algae.

Setup is 2 x 2feet linked using water bridge. Btw only otos and shrimp crossed so far.

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## Jovel

bought some red nose shrimps, cleared my hair algae over night. wow.

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## felix_fx2

> bought some red nose shrimps, cleared my hair algae over night. wow.


http://www.petshrimp.com/rednoseshrimp.php
http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum...ed-Nose-Shrimp

this one? they must be hungry  :Smile: 
btw, you buy rocket shrimp aka red nose shrimp from C328?

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## Jovel

> http://www.petshrimp.com/rednoseshrimp.php
> http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum...ed-Nose-Shrimp
> 
> this one? they must be hungry 
> btw, you buy rocket shrimp aka red nose shrimp from C328?


ya these are the ones  :Smile:  bought them at GC, 10 for a red note. i guess GC dont really feed them haha! I've been there afew times and the shopkeeper always put those plants infested with algae for them to clean. so i guess they're trained well lol.

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## wongce

> ya these are the ones  bought them at GC, 10 for a red note. i guess GC dont really feed them haha! I've been there afew times and the shopkeeper always put those plants infested with algae for them to clean. so i guess they're trained well lol.


red nose eats plants? i heard from CCK shopowner red nose eat plants...thats why i didn't but them for algae control.anyone can clarify?

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## Loudness

recently i got a hair algae infection in my tank. added some SAE and yamato shrimp, all cleared, but today i realised that my canister is full of hair algae. so i suggest you check your canister, make sure it's clean.

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## felix_fx2

> recently i got a hair algae infection in my tank. added some SAE and yamato shrimp, all cleared, but today i realised that my canister is full of hair algae. so i suggest you check your canister, make sure it's clean.


Your canister is exposed light alot?
Now that you mention, I do remember I found moss growing in mine before too. Not alot thou

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## Loudness

Not exposed to light at all. The canister was full of hair algae and smells damn bad.

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## felix_fx2

> Not exposed to light at all. The canister was full of hair algae and smells damn bad.


i never smell alage before. The smell they leave on my hands is already bad enough  :Laughing:

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## christan1959

hi guys, will yamatos eat black beard algae? that is my main challenge. plus, got occasional outbreak of green slime (i dunno why/how they appear).

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## Shadow

Yamato does not eat BBA, only SAE that is know/reported eat SAE.

Green slime or BGA is normally due to lack of flow.

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## christan1959

thanks bro. now that you mention it, flow is not so good in my tank - filter getting quite old.

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## Blue Whale

You have to maintain your filter regularly. 

Now for the filter, dismantle, hot water treatment, use a green cloth (meshy type), clean clean clean...if algae stubborn, use a bit of bleach on the green cloth, clean clean clean. Wash thorough with water until you cannot smell it.

For the tank, light black out until you can see improvement. If need be 1hour lighting then black out again. Meaning if you have to either reduce or stop your plant food regime for the time being. Conduct water change as needed. Pick out every little rotten plants, rotten fishs, fish bone, that you might find.

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## christan1959

tks bro. hv tried lights out method b4. plants tend to suffer but algae will still persist. cannister filter - clean once/month enough?

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## Blue Whale

> tks bro. hv tried lights out method b4. plants tend to suffer but algae will still persist. cannister filter - clean once/month enough?


Yeap. In that case, get more cheapo plants, just dump on the water surface. Don't have to plant it. On light as usual until algae say bye bye. Water is nutrient rich, so intro more plants can help to absorb them. After algae say bye bye, put the cheapo ones into a different tank name it nursery. You can bring them back when needed. Simple idea?

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