# Planted Tanks > Beginners' Corner >  Dymax IQ5 Nano Tank with moss and shrimps

## B4life

Hi all,

I'm very new in nano tank, planted and shrimps. Anyone can advice how can i start off? Do i go for soil? Is moss about to survive without CO2? And CRS need chiller? 

Thinking of the following setup, just a driftwood with moss (not too sure which moss to go on yet), not into tall plants.. like it neat and able to see my tetras and CRS.

Maybe to add in 5-10 tetras... 

Some kind bros please advice.

Thanks.

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## diazman

> Hi all,
> 
> I'm very new in nano tank, planted and shrimps. Anyone can advice how can i start off? Do i go for soil? Is moss about to survive without CO2? And CRS need chiller? 
> 
> Thinking of the following setup, just a driftwood with moss (not too sure which moss to go on yet), not into tall plants.. like it neat and able to see my tetras and CRS.
> 
> Maybe to add in 5-10 tetras... 
> 
> Some kind bros please advice.
> ...



hi there, first of all, how much are you intending to spend on? IMO a IQ5 is way too small to fit 5-10 tetras plus shrimp (and they do not go together well). I suggest either shrimp or fish only setup.

o 1ft Cube tank atleast , way cheaper than the IQ5 ,bigger space and the remaining change can even get a separate filter.
o If you keeping moss only, no need soil unless you keeping stem plants along with it. CO2 depending on plant list, moss don't require it but beneficial.
o Read up on existing threads here the bros and sis posted and research abit. Best to plan first rather than you go ahead and regret later on  :Wink: .

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## B4life

Diaman> Thanks for your suggestions, any good idea where i can get a 1ft cube? U mention a separate filter? Eheim filter? I'm more interested in having shrimps (CRS) if so what is the best temp to run on? Do i need to run a chiller? 

That's what i'm doing the last few weeks, been reading and preparing myself... but too much information somethings can be bad as well  :Smile:  Easily poison... :P

So I hope bros here can give me more ideas and suggestions.

Thanks again.

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## Neondagger

Crs. Yes u need a chiller.
Guide for new tank set-up for crs.
Ph best at 6.2ph - u can get that by using acidic soil. (recommended mosura soil)
Chiller is a must. But if no money. A good fan should be able to put 3-4c. (Chiller better cause more constant temperature, fan depend on ambient temp.) Cheaper chiller is like hailea or resin. Hailea chill from 1decimal. Resin chill from 2 decimal. Hailea temp probe not very acurrate so need to DIY external probe. 
U need to run the tank for at least 1month before putting shrimps in. Standard for all aquarium. Cause u need bacteria to growth. (To hasten your cycling period. Add bactermax(from crs haven) or (mosura bt-9). Anti cholorine (mosura shizhen). Best top-up/ change water using distill water. Nutc sell life distill water for 45c each. Dun do too much water change. 10% per week. 
U need to get all the test kit before getting any shrimps. 
(ammonia,nitrate,nitrite,gh,kh,tds,Ph) 
Recommended sera one color a lot easier to see. Ph get those with probe better than Ph pen. Second hand one can get for like $60-$70. 
Shrimp love to graze on mosses
(Moss dun need fertiser just need cool temp) 
Need a good filter.(eheim best out there) 
Eheim 2215 is a good investment. 
The bigger the more stable the parameter is. 2ft would be the best if u can get. If not 1ft-1.5ft would be ok. If u got everything covered. Any question just post. 
Just my 2cent. Anything wrong please correct me

In the process of learning. painful but fun!

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## Neondagger

Keeping crs is a expensive hobby. If not getting yellow shrimps would be cheaper and easier to keep

In the process of learning. painful but fun!

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## B4life

Tks bro for ur advice. I dun think I got space for 2 ft tank, will go for 1 ft tank instead :-) now looking for nice 1 ft tank with a good price filter as well as a 2nd hand chiller :-) any good lobang?

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## Neondagger

Lobang everywhere in this forum u just got to look around. Use the search tool most question u ask haven been answered before. Trust me get eheim filter check out the website for the right size. The chiller you getting affect the filter u need. Cause chiller got a minimum flowrate which is depend on the filter. Check wisely for buying. Before u dip yourself into posion. Share it here then we can help u

In the process of learning. painful but fun!

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## diazman

Like what bro Neon have said, CRS is an expensive hobby. If you would like, can start off with those low requirement shrimps first. Chiller is needed if you are keeping high grade shrimps along with suitable filter flowrate. I lack experience in Chillers and stuff, you can consult with the shrimp experts here. My tank setup personally all run without fan even. 30 degrees and above keeping moss  :Laughing:  

One more thing to take note. Shrimp keeping can set you back hundred of bucks if you getting first hand equipment.  :Wink:

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## B4life

Diaman> Thanks for your kind advice. I'm prepared to get 2nd hand chiller, eheim and tank as long as they are in working conditions. I'm new to planted and shrimps but i have some experience in Discus as i use to breed them..  :Smile:  And have a room full of tanks, close to 20 tanks  :Smile: 

The water condition was easier to maintain, just with a carbon and filters before piping them directly into the tank, for my Discus tank i used change 80% of the water daily to promote growth and beef heart as their daily meals.  :Smile:  And no external filter like eheim is needed, I only have sponge filters in each tank. 

Shrimps and planted seems to be a whole new ball game for me... and my discus days was at least 5-6 years back. 
That's why I'm grateful for all the help and advice from all the members here.  :Smile:

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## Neondagger

Things to get second hand maybe only chiller and Lighting. Probably a 1/15 powered chiller would do the job.cost about $300 for first hand? if it's too much, look around the marketplace there is people selling second hand, half the price.
Lighting I would suggest LED. Cause it does not produce heat therefore your chiller dun need to work so hard and it's ok if you are not doing planted tank.
for EHEIM filter. 1ft tank maybe only need a EHEIM 2215-2213 still depending on the flowrate the chiller needs. dun forget too strong the flowrate. you will have a whirlpool in your tank. 2215-2213 is around 90-130 for a first hand. there is alot of 2213 selling in marketplace for like 65 and above. worth a look. 
1FT tank you definitely want to get first hand ones, as long as not custom made, It will be cheap. A gex glass 1ft tank cause about $33 I bought from C328.

This the 1ft tank I bought from C328.

Soil - ADA amazonia soil or mosura soil. Best. Probably cost around $30.(For my cases after using ADA Amazonia NEW. It's DAMN ACIDIC. I getting 5.6PH which is too low and when PH low hard to cure. PH high easier to down.) Mosura Soil have super good reputation.(Better to get them)
product u would need to get for your shrimps. 
Many people like to use a bottle of mosura Old sea mud to sprinkle on the bottom before laying down their soil.(I did not use it) Optional.
Mosura BT-9 is use to hasten the cycling period and decrease the ammonia in your tank.(MUST)
Mosura Shizhen. Anti-cholorine effect and decrease stress level of your shrimp.(I usually add when I do WC- MUST)
Mosura Mineral plus.(Increase the whiteness of your shrimps. Optional, I seldom use it) CRS solidness is depend on the GH level and Genes. Good genes will show whiteness in low GH, while bad Genes low gh color fade. this product increase the gh level in your tank. Beware - CRS prefer GH 3-4. gh high will cause molting problem(Molting meaning take out their old shell) A quote by eviltrain(High GH is like taking out your PJ in the water which is hard. Lower GH is like taking out your PJ on Land which is easier.)
Companys for shrimps. In such a small tank best not to keep tetras which shrimps. I had my experiences with tetras. they poke and harass the shrimps. The shrimps alway hiding from them and do not come out. Will have breeding issue cause of stress.
Boraras or something by the name. Fishes with have small or Super small mouth. (but if you intend to breed shrimps best not have any fishes. cause even boraras eat shrimplets. Fishes see shrimps as good source of protein. So...)
Oto, algae eater(Maintances team) Sometime nice to take photo with too.
Example(This picture. The King and the Civilians)

A better algae and company for Shrimps would be Snails. (I heard nerite snail are good but you have to find out.)

Water Change
Best change with distill water cause they have the cleanest parameter(recommended LIFE distill water cause cheaper and ph like 6 plus.) Nowaday tap water ph damn high like 7 plus going 8.
With a low volume of water, alittle addition of 7plus ph would cause a ph spike in the water. 
Only do 10% water change per week. dun over 10%. will cause stress for the shrimps. 
For every huge WC, you would alway have casualitys. So best not to. CRS have smaller gene pool which means they are more fragile then other shrimps or fishes. in other case we call them SENSATIVE.
To introduce new water into the tank without causing ph Spike. I use a 1.5litre water. Cut the top. Cut a hole. Add in a plastic valve use silcone to close the gap of the hole. tune the valve so that the water drip slowly. 
and that would be my water changing kit. 
Check out mosura products. they are quite good.http://www.mosura-intl.com/product.php?p=mp

Food
Many people use mosura foods. I personally like borneowild shrimp foods. try to feed different food.
Example I use borneowild spinach and borneowild growth.
1 with high protein, 1 with full vege. The reason I do this is because I want my shrimps to grow fast but not die fast. most shrimp have 1.5years of life. Giving it meat content would increase it's growth but many it age faster.
If you are really particular about food. you can try sigma special breeding food. he selling $16 per tin. 1 tin could probably last more than a year.

Test Kit
Liquid test kit - GH,KH,ammonia,nitrate,nitrite.(recommended SERA. cause color easy to different.)
Tds Meter.
PH meter.
Remember to cycle your tank for at least 1 month. before putting shrimps.

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## diazman

No problem at all.  :Smile:  Im still a newbie at planted tanks too. haha

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## B4life

Neondagger> "I use a 1.5litre water. Cut the top. Cut a hole. Add in a plastic valve use silcone to close the gap of the hole. tune the valve so that the water drip slowly" That's reminds me of hatching my brine shrimps... I use the same bottle method to hatch them.  :Smile:  Thanks bro... Tat's very informative... 

Resun CL200 with Eheim 2026 for a 1ft or 1.5ft able to work?
Someone offer me CL200 @ $200 and Eheim 2026 @ $150...

I'm still looking for a 1.5ft cube tank...

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## Neondagger

CL 200 for $200 not worth it.You can get a 1/15 hailea second hand for about lowest $150? if you top up abit can get new one liao. just my 2cent.
Eheim 2026 Second hand for $150. whats the use? 
You could get a first hand Eheim 2213 for $130...
Classic model for Eheim are good, dun need to buy all the other stuff with gimmicks. Like auto valve release and stuff. Once I start my canister. about 3months, I never touch it liao.

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## Neondagger

Where you stay there are many places that sell fish tank around that sizes.

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## B4life

Neondagger> Thanks for the advice, quite true for your words... Well, I drive, so anywhere with a nice price and a nice tank i can be there  :Smile:  But I'm not looking for those simple tank with 5 pieces of glass silicon together type, rather those rounded tank nice for display...  :Smile:  (Nano Cubes) Any suggestions?

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## Neondagger

http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum...Hailea-Chiller!!!
This post got give abit of information.
http://aquatic-art.blogspot.com/2008...5-minutes.html
DIY Resun Probe for chiller.
I cannot find the post for DIY external probe for hailea liao. Can someone link it please?

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## Neondagger

> Neondagger> Thanks for the advice, quite true for your words... Well, I drive, so anywhere with a nice price and a nice tank i can be there  But I'm not looking for those simple tank with 5 pieces of glass silicon together type, rather those rounded tank nice for display...  (Nano Cubes) Any suggestions?


Well, nano tank ok but what I dun like it that they use a piece of plastic to partition around 5cm of the tank. Which is for the internal filter they provide which is a waste of space and the filter clog up easily. Most nano tank biggest also 1ft which is small. But they do compensate with their height. 
My advice is look around before diving into it. Y618,C328 have alots of tank. You could look around. 
What I like is fluval edge. But too expensive can get a custom made tank for the price liao. 

In the process of learning. painful but fun!

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## Ecalyte

> CL 200 for $200 not worth it.You can get a 1/15 hailea second hand for about lowest $150? if you top up abit can get new one liao. just my 2cent.
> Eheim 2026 Second hand for $150. whats the use? 
> You could get a first hand Eheim 2213 for $130...
> Classic model for Eheim are good, dun need to buy all the other stuff with gimmicks. Like auto valve release and stuff. Once I start my canister. about 3months, I never touch it liao.


Are you serious? You're comparing the difference between a 2026 and a 2213? Do you even know the specs of the 2026? It has nothing to do with the gimmicks, and I bet you don't even know what 'gimmicks' they are. A 2026 has MORE THAN DOUBLE the flowrate of a 2213, with a shut-off valve that makes maintenance of the filter a BREEZE. How then can you say it's better to buy a brand new 2213 @ $150 than a used 2026 @ $130? First of all, it depends on the tank it's being used at. Different equipment is meant for different setups. Don't just blindly say one is better than the other when the specs are WORLDS apart.

Seriously bro, can you stop? Yes it's good that you're making an effort to try and help people.. but with your limited knowledge HALF of the things you're suggesting are either wrong, or half-correct. What I mean by half correct is that it doesn't paint the entire picture and will be different in different situations. 

For one, since when has 5.6 pH been TOO low for CRS? Shizhen is a water conditioner, mostly used for anti-chloramine. Why would you say that it is used to reduce the stress level of shrimps? What if someone wants to just whack Shizhen to reduce stress level? Do you even know that Shizhen has a very strong pH lowering capability, and that the effect is temporary? So you will then induce a massive pH down and pH up soon after. Shrimps will die. Where did you read that GH will increase the whiteness of CRS and hence Mineral plus?

I place a brigittae in a breeding box with newly released shrimplets and observed. None was touched. This is the only fish that I will recommend to keep in a shrimp tank to eat the nematodes.

A first hand 1/10HP chiller (Hailea 28S) will cost $280. Why would you tell people that a 1/15HP chiller will cost $300?

Please don't get me wrong. By all means, contribute to this forum. We need people like that. 

BUT DON'T GIVE ADVICE ON TOPICS THAT YOU ARE NOT FAMILIAR WITH OR HAVE VERY SUPERFICIAL KNOWLEDGE OF.

Why? Because people who are just starting out will take your advice and act on it. If they acted on HALF of what you've said, they will be looking at DEAD shrimps. Bro, from reading your threads and your experiences with this hobby... you are clearly still in need of a lot of learning on the basics. Do that first, maintain a good and healthy home for your own lifestock.. then come and share your experiences and help the newbies. Don't jump steps and start giving bad advice just because you think it sounds right. Be responsible.

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## B4life

Ecalyte> If you could kind enf to share with us? Which hardware is good for this tank "Dennerle Nano Cube 30L"? I like this tank but it's only 30cm x 30cm x 35cm if i can get a 45cm x 45cm x 35cm will be nice... (As mention i like it cause there's no sharp edges, and once setup i "hope" I dun really touch much of the tank just top up water once in a while. so with about 10 CRS with no fish and maybe moss on stone or driftwood.

What's ur suggestion bro? Thanks.  :Smile:

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## Neondagger

> Are you serious? You're comparing the difference between a 2026 and a 2213? Do you even know the specs of the 2026? It has nothing to do with the gimmicks, and I bet you don't even know what 'gimmicks' they are. A 2026 has MORE THAN DOUBLE the flowrate of a 2213, with a shut-off valve that makes maintenance of the filter a BREEZE. How then can you say it's better to buy a brand new 2213 @ $150 than a used 2026 @ $130? First of all, it depends on the tank it's being used at. Different equipment is meant for different setups. Don't just blindly say one is better than the other when the specs are WORLDS apart.
> 
> Seriously bro, can you stop? Yes it's good that you're making an effort to try and help people.. but with your limited knowledge HALF of the things you're suggesting are either wrong, or half-correct. What I mean by half correct is that it doesn't paint the entire picture and will be different in different situations. 
> 
> For one, since when has 5.6 pH been TOO low for CRS? Shizhen is a water conditioner, mostly used for anti-chloramine. Why would you say that it is used to reduce the stress level of shrimps? What if someone wants to just whack Shizhen to reduce stress level? Do you even know that Shizhen has a very strong pH lowering capability, and that the effect is temporary? So you will then induce a massive pH down and pH up soon after. Shrimps will die. Where did you read that GH will increase the whiteness of CRS and hence Mineral plus?
> 
> I place a brigittae in a breeding box with newly released shrimplets and observed. None was touched. This is the only fish that I will recommend to keep in a shrimp tank to eat the nematodes.
> 
> A first hand 1/10HP chiller (Hailea 28S) will cost $280. Why would you tell people that a 1/15HP chiller will cost $300?
> ...


FYI. On the filter part is personally perference. His is going to get a 1.5ft tank why need such a flowrate, unless he getting a 1/10 chiller. For maintaince is like what I said. (U do not need to do maintaince to filter regularly so what's the point of alittle trouble.) Shizhen does
- Protects crustaceans from stress and vitamins. 
On the chiller part, it was my mistake on the pricing. But you alway check with the store. 
deffiency with multivitamins
One of the effect of shizhen. 
And from my case. I learn that high gh would cause my shrimp to be so solid. When I low the gh. The solidness is gone. Might be by stress or something. But after a few days they are still faded, so I dun think stress is the reason. That's one think I learn from the fellow shrimp breeder. I am sure there is some truth in what I say. I dun.just shoot stuff that come.out of my brain. I did research. Might not be enough but I am sure 9/10 of what I said have it's point. 
Not trying to be pro, just trying to help. No offends seriously.
In the process of learning. painful but fun!

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## Jianyuan

Shizhen does provide that usage purposes, and what if a newly started hobbyist saw that remark and happiy dose in more then the stated amount of shizhen or even add it in as and when he feels like it. There'll be a sharp drop in pH, this would have stress out the shrimps instead of what has been said of helping with stress. 

That aside, how high gH is high for the solidness of your shrimps? Do you mean solidness of color or the shell thickness?

And assuming TS is going for the 45cmx45cmx35cm tank, its roughly 63itres of tank volume and with a 2213 at 300 litres/h. With medias added in the flow will be cut by 20-30%. And if a chiller is hooked on, that'll result in another drop in flowrate. Many people believe in having at least a 5 times your tank volume flowrate to ensure cleanliness of the tank water. With all the drop in flowrate, i beloeve its not nearly at 3 times flowrate of the tank volume.

And if TS were to get a 1/10 hp chiller, most people believe in using a chiller one step higher then what you need, this is to prevent your chiller from overworking and shortening its lifespan. A low flowrate will result in frequent kick in for the chiller too, likewise if your flow is too fast. Uness your chiller is modified with an external thermoprobe.

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## B4life

Jianyuan> You read my mine on the tank size (45cmx45cmx35cm tank), but i'm still not able to find 1 with that specs. Let's say I can locate the tank as u have mention, please advice if Resun CL200 and Eheim 2026 do the trick?

Thanks bro.

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## Jianyuan

Cant comment in resun chiller as i personally have not used it before. However im using the hailea hs28a with an eheim 2224 flowrate of 700litres/h on a 2x1x1 feet tank which is about 56litres. Had an issue with frequent kick in of my chiller before, till i modified it with an external thermoprobe. Flowrate for me is still alright, play with the rainbar if you find flowrate too strong. After a period of running the filters, i believe your flowrate would have dropped further due to the clogging of the filter wool. You can read around for more ideas regarding filteration and then settle for one that you're comfortable with. Its better to overfilter then to underfilter. Of course not overfilter to the extent your tank becomes a washing machine.

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## Neondagger

Ok maybe just for my case. I using a eheim 2213 --> Arttica 1/10 chiller ---> tank. After using the rainbar at the brink, poke holes submerging the rainbar in the water, my eheim 2213 media bottom to top(sponge,cr s/m, biohomme plus, eheim subtrate pro, wool). I still get a whirlpool in my 2ft tank. Maybe my is a overpowered eheim 2213. My chiller kicks in every 1hr or so. and temperature sensor is work fine. Having the almost the same temperature as my tds meter. 





The last time I went all the way up to 8-9gh. then I low it down to 5gh. 
If he was getting a 1/10 chiller then 2213 might not be a good choice. but he does not need a 1/10 for the size of the tank. 1/10 can chill all the way to 3ft. If he thinking of upgrading then it maybe a good choice then 2213 is not a good choice.
In the end. It depends if he is planning for future upgrade or not.

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## Ecalyte

The reason why your tank is a whirlpool is because you're using a rainbar, some more your rain bar is not even stretched across the entire 2 ft. Don't advice people to get an underpowered filter for their system because yours is set up differently. You go try buy a lily pipe outlet and see still whirlpool or not.

You don't run a pre-filter and you say you don't need to maintain a filter regularly? Exactly how long is your 'regularly' and how long are you intending on maintaining your filter?

Do you even realise that your bio media pores will get clogged from the bi-product waste of the bacteria from their nitrification? And that if you don't have a good pre-filter system this will happen faster than you think? And also that without cleaning of the bio media, water flow can no longer go to the areas where your bacteria are at, and hence they will die due to lack of food causing a major ammonia spike in your tank? This is what happens when your tank CRASHES. 

Yes definitely there is some truth in what you say, but like I said before.. they're only half-truth, or half-correct. Simply because you cannot just take one application and use it across ALL circumstances. Yes, the packaging says it protects from stress, but the application of this product needs to be explained as it has an acidic property that is NOT explained. This is my point and if you don't get it, I'm just going to let you continue give bad advice until someone's tank crashes and bite you in the 'behind'.

Like I said.. please don't give advice on topic that you're proving time and again extremely unfamiliar with and have very little basic knowledge of. I never asked you to stop contributing your experiences, but don't give it as ADVICE to people asking for help if you're not 100% sure of the topic. That's like you visiting a doctor with an unknown ailment, then doctor not very sure but never mind anyhow say you have cancer and make you go chemo. Stupid right???

Am I the only one here that feels very strongly about this?

To the Thread Starter, your choice of canister filter will depend on your own preference. Even if you get an overpowered filter, you can just get the appropriate-sized double tap and adjust the output flow accordingly. Ask yourself, where do you find your hobby in 3-4 months? If everything goes smoothly, what do you envisage your hobby to be like? A tank upgrade? More sensitive species? More tanks even? When you can safely answer all these questions, then you take stock of what you're currently intending to get. If you're already seeing yourself with a bigger tank 3-4 months down the line, why not just buy the bigger tank now? If you find yourself more likely to buy more tanks than to upgrade your existing tank, then ok.. let's start with whatever your budget will allow you to pursue.

Curve tanks are much harder to find specific dimensions, and even more expensive to custom make. A smaller percentage of hobbyist prefer the curved tanks, but if you're after specific dimensions then I really urge you to get the 5-glass-silicone type. A crystal glass tank with impeccable workmanship will put curve tanks to shame. Think about it.. East Ocean at Havelock road has a selection of Crystal Glass tanks of varying sizes. At least have a look first to see if it tickles your fancy  :Smile: 

Let's go on towards filtration. Gimmicks aside, we have to talk about two things when considering a filter. One is the flow, and the other is the media volume. This is because bacteria requires some contact time with the water to actually efficiently perform nitrification. If you have a very small media volume basket, and a huge filter flow rate.. trust me, you will not be performing much nitrification at all. That's why you see Canister filters start to increase in size as the flow-rate goes up. I feel that a 2026 with a 1/10HP chiller is a good solution (i feel 2026 still a bit strong for 2ft tanks) for tanks as small as 2ft, below that and you'll have to reduce the flow manually through the use of double taps or an in-built flow controller (if your canister has one). Of course, once you start to use this setup, you're doing so with a future upgrade in mind. If you don't see yourself upgrading in the next 3-4 months, then I suggest you go for something along the lines of 500-700L/Hr flow. Keep the 1/10HP chiller, it should come with a 12/16mm hose size connector so that's fine. I'm using a Hailea 28S and it's serving me well. You could take a look at that.

Always, always use a pre-filter. This way, you only need to maintain your pre-filter when your flow starts to reduce due to clogging, and your main canister once every 6 months. What's a prefilter? It's basically a filter container without a motor. Most people (myself included) use it to stuff all our mechanical filtration media in there; a fancy way of saying wool. So you basically just stuff your filter wool in the prefilter so you don't have to put any wool in your canister. Just need your bio media. Let me show you a pictorial representation of how good a pre-filter is at its job.



Look at the front two pre-filters from the right. Can you imagine that amount of filth being in my canister filter? How can you not do regular maintenance on your canister filter after knowing this?

So before I can give you more detailed advice, perhaps it'll be prudent for you to take a step back and plan 3-4 months ahead.. imagine a hobby with no problems and smooth sailing, where would you like to be in 3-4 months? And then we can start planning your setup towards that goal, rather than change it later when you get there.

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## Navanod

Neondagger bro, you're using the best of the best Arctica chiller. It has very good temperature probe positioned at a good spot so that it'll not misread the temperature and kick in the chiller every 15 mins, no matter how slow the flow rate is.
Have you tried Resun and Hailea before? These chillers needs rather high flow to aggressively mix the water in the chamber or the temperature probe will sense the chamber temperature instead and kick out. Then awhile later, kick in again as the chamber warms up. That's why people do external probes so that it sense the real tank temperature and only stop when the tank reach the set point.

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## mimin5zidane

> Neondagger bro, you're using the best of the best Arctica chiller. It has very good temperature probe positioned at a good spot so that it'll not misread the temperature and kick in the chiller every 15 mins, no matter how slow the flow rate is.
> Have you tried Resun and Hailea before? These chillers needs rather high flow to aggressively mix the water in the chamber or the temperature probe will sense the chamber temperature instead and kick out. Then awhile later, kick in again as the chamber warms up. That's why people do external probes so that it sense the real tank temperature and only stop when the tank reach the set point.


Sorry to barge in. But where can i get the external probe done?

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## Navanod

> Sorry to barge in. But where can i get the external probe done?


There's a shop in Sim Lim tower that sells it. Search the forums, a few bros had posted their works. Or you can just buy a temperature controller.

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## Jianyuan

Search for bro Gryphon's thread on his shrimp journal. He posted it there.

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## mimin5zidane

> There's a shop in Sim Lim tower that sells it. Search the forums, a few bros had posted their works. Or you can just buy a temperature controller.


temperature controller? u mean like a digital thermometer?

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## Jianyuan

A temperature controller is not a digital thermometer.

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## Navanod

> temperature controller? u mean like a digital thermometer?


Its a stand alone digital thermometer with its own temperature probe. It is powered from the wall socket through a 3 pins plug and then have an outlet where you can plug other equipment in.
The outlet from the controller is controlled based on the temperature and turns on/off at whatever temperatures you set it to. If you plug the chiller to it, you can set the chiller to 20 degrees C and the controller to 25 degrees. Below 26 degrees, the controller switches off the chiller totally. When temperature hits 26, the power comes on and the chiller turns on. The chiller then sense that the temperature is above its own set point of 20 degrees C and kicks in. when temperature falls to 25, the controller switches off the chiller again.

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## RonWill

> A temperature controller is not a digital thermometer.


 Perhaps you might understand thermostat better. Meanwhile, please note your usage of SMS lingo.

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## Jianyuan

Sorry boss, i thought he meant it as using as a digital thermometer only. Yes i did read up prior to modifying my chiller. Thanks for kind gesture  :Smile: 
Ive made an effort and typed without using any SMS lingos.

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## mimin5zidane

> Its a stand alone digital thermometer with its own temperature probe. It is powered from the wall socket through a 3 pins plug and then have an outlet where you can plug other equipment in.
> The outlet from the controller is controlled based on the temperature and turns on/off at whatever temperatures you set it to. If you plug the chiller to it, you can set the chiller to 20 degrees C and the controller to 25 degrees. Below 26 degrees, the controller switches off the chiller totally. When temperature hits 26, the power comes on and the chiller turns on. The chiller then sense that the temperature is above its own set point of 20 degrees C and kicks in. when temperature falls to 25, the controller switches off the chiller again.


I understand now. Thanks for your patience! Really appreciate it!

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## RonWill

JianYuan, my earlier comment regarding SMS lingo was for "mimin5zidane". You are doing ok and there's no need for a yellow card!  :Grin:

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## mimin5zidane

> JianYuan, my earlier comment regarding SMS lingo was for "mimin5zidane". You are doing ok and there's no need for a yellow card!


Oh! Sorry Mod! Will take note of that. Will try to be more careful next time round.  :Smile:

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