# Other Aquarium Forums > Equipment and Accessories > DIY Projects >  Tale of a Farmer II - Construction of the Fish Rack

## Blue Whale

*Tale of a farmer I*
http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum...le-of-a-farmer

Due to the picture problem in the first thread, a 2nd thread is being constructed in the DIY which is more appropriate to continue the *Construction of the Fish Rack*. 

This is the original rack for my farming use.



Plans to move with the new construction came with the idea of the design, of which after several attempts to find a rack failed. This is the original idea of the rack only to be improved later on as I construct the rack.



So came the materials required as per the original design down to the exact number of usage of bolt and nuts, etc.



The lamps required 6500K E27 type Philip stick type of 8w, 11w and 14w respectively.
Basically you could buy these around 3 for $10 should you get from hardware shop. Per piece might be looking at $3.5 to $4. If you source at NTUC, it is going to cost you anywhere from $4.50 to $6.50 per piece. Hence you have take a seat back and start to walk around. That extra few dollars could allow you to buy more useful stuffs.

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## Blue Whale

The bolts and nuts required. Now here is a point. They do not sell exact, supposed there are 50 nuts, it doesn't mean there are 50 bolts. These are sold by KG. So always have an extra pack on hand. Triangle Fasteners are required for the corners, you could have 2 as the minimum, but 3 is better.



The paint required, you cannot use those for ceiling. These are paint. I bought 1L first. Should need another can later on.



Lamp holders costing $6.50 each, and since I got 10 of them, it cost me $60 after bargain.

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## Blue Whale

First, the dismantle the cut sized metals.



A closer view of the different sizes based on the design.



A simple layout for thought before fastening.



Segregate out the bolts and nuts will allow you to pick up better later on during the construction phase.



Let's start from the bottom. Now the longest pieces would be on the floor.



Okay you cannot tie it really really tight so that you have room to do a bit of adjustments.



This forms the bottom part. It might look odd but you can see why later on.

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## Blue Whale

It is at this very point that I paused and look. The structural integrity of this rack can be further improved. Stopping all works, I quickly went over the hardware shop to get more supporting beams, triangle fasteners and bolt/nuts.



After coming back, the construction phase continues...
Some loosely pre-fab parts for supporting beams.



Okay, you have a rough idea of how it looks now.



With this test, I can see the plank is almost exact. This is the point where I finishes so far. Going to pause for some carbo intake before I continue with the work. Yes the pink color thingy is the T5HO Lighting which I am no longer using at the moment.

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## cherabin

Very nice  :Smile:  may I suggest maybe some loctite on the bolts and nuts. If I recall correctly, the blue colour type is that one that can be be unscrewed if needed as opposed to the red colour one.

What do you reckon is the maximum weight loading per shelf? 70kg? Or is that pushing it?

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## Blue Whale

looking at 150-200kg, more practical figure. total 4 tier but looking at min. 12 tanks or maxi. 20 tanks.

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## tetrakid

I do share your concern regarding loading capacity. I had intended to do a rack like this, but for me, it is more to be used as an outer shelving frame within which a separate solid stand will hold my main tank. The angle iron frame itself my not be robust enough for a big tank, though it is sufficient for some nano tanks. 



> Very nice  may I suggest maybe some loctite on the bolts and nuts. If I recall correctly, the blue colour type is that one that can be be unscrewed if needed as opposed to the red colour one.
> 
> What do you reckon is the maximum weight loading per shelf? 70kg? Or is that pushing it?

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## felix_fx2

So your using angle slotted bars after all lol. 
Got buy the plastic to protect the floor?

Btw, The load for the bars really depends on the placing of the braces. Your's not very long so no direct need for additional brace.

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## diazman

Bro, you placing those Gex type tanks on the racks issit?

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## cherabin

150-200kg is really good! However I read from 'Tale of a farmer I' that the total cost of this rack is $160? Would it make more economical sense, say if I were to custom a 4-tier WI stand, compared to DIY-ing something like this? Labour involved and time taken for the work are considered. 

The positive I see about this rack though is the option to be able to dismantle it and re-customize the dimensions, height between tiers etc, when the need or itch arises.

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## Blue Whale

I am doing conservative estimate. The initial cost is $180 + $40 for added support bar, brings the cost to $220. Pre-fab one difficuly to reinforce. I'll break down eletrical cost later on. Added planks prevent cave in as well, structural integrity should be overkill now.

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## ciaossu

wow looks like a big project man =)

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## felix_fx2

The wood is fully laminated? It will likely hold for quite a while unless you let it contact water for too long.

Actually why you never use Styrofoam? The ones eddy recommend...
I have been using 1 that is 5CM thick for 3 years.. (best thing is it was FOC keke) and i think it only have some marks on it.

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## tetrakid

Hi cherabin,

Can you tell more about the WI stand? What is WI? How to custom it? 




> .... Would it make more economical sense, say if I were to custom a 4-tier WI stand, compared to DIY-ing something like this? Labour involved and time taken for the work are considered.

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## stormhawk

Wrought iron, and you'd need a welder to do this. Customised stands would look nicer no doubt, and probably cost a little more, but an adjustable rack gives more options as compared to a welded rack which is already fixed.

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## bossteck

Didn't really finish reading your initial farmer thread, but I like the 'harnessing the power of the sun' bit... seems like you're going to deviate from that with the construction of the rack, shame.

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## tetrakid

Do you know of any wrought iron fabricator (who specialises in fish tanks) with reasonable charges? 




> Wrought iron, and you'd need a welder to do this. Customised stands would look nicer no doubt, and probably cost a little more, but an adjustable rack gives more options as compared to a welded rack which is already fixed.

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## felix_fx2

> Didn't really finish reading your initial farmer thread, but I like the 'harnessing the power of the sun' bit... seems like you're going to deviate from that with the construction of the rack, shame.


I have been trying to poison people to again pray to the sun god. but blue whale got the E27 posion instead...
eric want to join me be gardener? i got 4 pots already. (but we have to start a new thread so his led farm doesn't OT)

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## Blue Whale

> So your using angle slotted bars after all lol. 
> Got buy the plastic to protect the floor?
> 
> Btw, The load for the bars really depends on the placing of the braces. Your's not very long so no direct need for additional brace.


Ordered but he no stock. Waiting. 4.
Extra Bracing Plus wooden plank will suffice. : > Overkill design.




> Bro, you placing those Gex type tanks on the racks issit?


I am dreaming of a 3ft but maybe put it off first..:P Yes Gex M Size under consideration. Flicker mind Flicker mind...maybe 1 x 2ft first.




> Didn't really finish reading your initial farmer thread, but I like the 'harnessing the power of the sun' bit... seems like you're going to deviate from that with the construction of the rack, shame.


Wah....I did not know I got a fan over here ^^ 3 years back. --" That was before my sister move in with her kids, so no space...shelved....I have been dreaming of having a Solar System for more than 10 years. Even my FB have the concept plan documented. Nevertheless, I did deploy one. A Solar Ionizer which do not contain battery and it does it's job, even with the 6500K Light set, it continues to operate. No battery means no maintenance.




> I have been trying to poison people to again pray to the sun god. but blue whale got the E27 posion instead...
> eric want to join me be gardener? i got 4 pots already. (but we have to start a new thread so his led farm doesn't OT)


Ooo....I do have LED Lights like a florescent lamp...want me to deploy? Heh Heh....

So you all ready to see some pictures? Or should I hold back? The rack is not fully operationable yet.

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## stormhawk

Ted, I don't know of any, but I believe the tank makers can do such stands for a reasonable price. The problem with wrought iron is that they will rust after some time. You can get standard sized wrought iron racks from the LFS I think. During the luohan phase, these racks were very common.

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## Blue Whale

> Ted, I don't know of any, but I believe the tank makers can do such stands for a reasonable price. The problem with wrought iron is that they will rust after some time. You can get standard sized wrought iron racks from the LFS I think. During the luohan phase, these racks were very common.


Yes yes...2 years confirm gone case. Because we always drip water on the rack plus LuoHan like splash. I don't use cover for LuoHan. ^^Y

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## tetrakid

Okay, maybe I'll just go for angle iron, which is surface-treated coated so won't rust so easily, for my frame (but not the supporting stand). I did have one of those Luohan racks and 3ft tank before. The tank later leaked so was disposed off, including the stand and top filter. Looking back, I wouldn't have lost my precious bump-less Luohan if I had known about the 'secret' of surface oxygenation and OHFs then.  :Smile:

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## Blue Whale

> Okay, maybe I'll just go for angle iron, which is surface-treated coated so won't rust so easily, for my frame (but not the supporting stand). I did have one of those Luohan racks and 3ft tank before. The tank later leaked so was disposed off, including the stand and top filter. Looking back, I wouldn't have lost my precious bump-less Luohan if I had known about the 'secret' of surface oxygenation and OHFs then.


Like that har? The hang on water is 4cm above water surface and not much splash generated from my cute cute GEX Slim L.

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## cherabin

I love Gex slim filters. Hehe.

For WI stands, I got my 3-tier 2' customize not too long back with Fishy Business. Excellent service and stand was perfect to what I specified.

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## felix_fx2

> Okay, maybe I'll just go for angle iron, which is surface-treated coated so won't rust so easily, for my frame (but not the supporting stand). I did have one of those Luohan racks and 3ft tank before. The tank later leaked so was disposed off, including the stand and top filter. Looking back, I wouldn't have lost my precious bump-less Luohan if I had known about the 'secret' of surface oxygenation and OHFs then.


When you going to do? I might want a few slotted bits for something else can hitch hike?

 :Smile:  I had a bumpless flowerhorn too. Very nice alway like to kiss my arm.

@blue whale, decide on what you want to use. No point quoting your storeroom when you wasted money buy the tornado sticks.

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## Blue Whale

err...what storeroom？ Thats my room！ Ha Ha ha！

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## tetrakid

I won't be doing anything anytime soon, as I am occupied with other things now. It's just in my plans for future execution when the time is ripe.

As for Luohans (Flowerheads), I am not into those head bumps as I don't fancy those things at all. I had mine purely for its vivid colour, tame character and unusual body markings, and I specifically choose one without any hint of a bump. Thinking back, I remember feeding it only with the best food of dried shrimps.  :Smile: 



> When you going to do? I might want a few slotted bits for something else can hitch hike?
>  I had a bumpless flowerhorn too. Very nice alway like to kiss my arm.
> @blue whale, decide on what you want to use. No point quoting your storeroom when you wasted money buy the tornado sticks.

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## felix_fx2

> err...what storeroom Thats my room Ha Ha ha


Lol. Was thinking why woodlands zone have private estate storeroom so big  :Razz: 

Anyway in the sense that you already planned for a angle slotted rack, why never plan it bigger? So can have storage space

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## Blue Whale

> Lol. Was thinking why woodlands zone have private estate storeroom so big 
> 
> Anyway in the sense that you already planned for a angle slotted rack, why never plan it bigger? So can have storage space


From the highest tier to the ceiling is about 1-2ft, the right height for another 2ft. Hence there is no point in bring it up another tier upwards. Secondly, remember the Shenton Way Evacuation due to Sumatra Earthquake, well, I was at Woodlands that time at home. I felt the quake, my tank shook as well because just before the quake the fishes already tried to warn me. So stabilising the rack is of most important which I will look into slight improvement later on.

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## Blue Whale

I was not able to update last night as the rack itself blocks off the laptop. Now continuing where we last left off, I was at the completion of the 2nd tier.

For future builders, the round head bolt and nuts is the one we want to get. But notice there is a square thingy at the bottom of the screw thread. 



It will help you "lock" into the metal piece so you can just use a nose piler to screw tight. Do not use standard pilers as you have will problem manoeuvring in such tight spaces. See how perfect it locks in? The other thing is that each hole itself is 5cm to the next hole. Each 20cm there is a marking on the metal itself.



Completion of the 4th tier, your back should be breaking by now, at least my did.



Of course if you have 2 people doing this, it would be much more easier, but you need more building space. Now the 3rd supporting beam is one of the difficult part, at this stage, you will be facing sharp edges from all the 4 tiers and to keep the single longest and heaviest beam in place whilst trying put in just 1 bolt. Use your chest to hold it if necessary and be very very careful.

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## Blue Whale

And so finally the 4th tier, excitement kicks in as the rack is almost completed right? Wrong, this is the stage where you need to be extra extra careful. Full attention must be applied so ensure that you are not being disturbed in any way. Now also notice that I use the remainder or extras pieces of metal as a support below the rack as well. Why then should we be careful, this is the part where you use eye inspection, inspecting each joints, you can tighten it along the way, but it will loosen once you starts to move it in position.



Very quickly now, the rack get erected. Nice right? Okay, now you apply pull test. Pull every single tier downwards. I weighing 70kg, so I use my weight to step down the tiers. After each step down, do a quick check on the nuts again and tighten it. Notice I am checking balance of the rack now. As I do not have the rubber to project the legs now, it will be inserted later.



Here is to check water balance. This is not the final check however.



Now you must remember this rack is going to be "watered" along the way, and it does not do well with water, it will rust. Hence a coat of paint should be applied. And so a coat of black glossy paint has been applied to the rack. DO NOT be lazy and cut corners, every single top and bottom of the metal piece should be painted. Any rust will compromise the structural integrity, if you want it to last 5-8 years, it is best to take extra precaution. 



And so we have another view at the sexy rack.

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## Blue Whale

Continuing what was detailed in Tale of a Farmer I, here is a quick check on the progress:

Phase 1 Design work - *Completed*
Phase 2 Order and Transportation of construction materials I - *Completed*
Phase 3 Construction and Painting of Rack - In Progress.
Phase 4 Arming the rack with Electrical Circuits - yet to start.
Phase 5 Air tube arming, connecting to Beetle 12000 air pump - yet to start.
Phase 6 Bringing the tanks, soils for water recycling - yet to start.
Phase 7 Bring in the plants.
Phase 8 Bring in the Fishes.

Ok, you might be wondering how come the rack has been painted and it is still in progress. Now, after the first coat, you have put a 2nd coat on each tier, the area where most likely water will be dripping down. So 2nd coat to be applied. Did you forget about the wooden planks? Now even though you might order a laminated plank, the cut will means the sides are not protected, hence you will have to coat it with paint as well. The same kind of paint for every doors. Drying is longer of course, it can still be wet even after 6hrs, so always wear the worker's glove which is a cloth disposable type of hand glove. I always buy a pack to put at home in case I need it. Alternatively, have the plastic ones, so long it doesn't tear easily. I would put at 20% done now. ^^/

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## bossteck

> I have been trying to poison people to again pray to the sun god. but blue whale got the E27 posion instead...
> eric want to join me be gardener? i got 4 pots already. (but we have to start a new thread so his led farm doesn't OT)


I am a lousy gardener, that's my wife's forte. I better stick to fishes.

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## bossteck

> It will help you "lock" into the metal piece so you can just use a nose piler to screw tight. Do not use standard pilers as you have will problem manoeuvring in such tight spaces. See how perfect it locks in? The other thing is that each hole itself is 5cm to the next hole. Each 20cm there is a marking on the metal itself.


Massive project you have there. 
Actually, with the amount of work you're doing, it might be worth while to invest in a set of socket wrench but I suppose this information came too late  :Smile:  

Have fun and keep the updates coming!

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## Blue Whale

> I am a lousy gardener, that's my wife's forte. I better stick to fishes.


Then make it your forte as well. Whether is it cooking or gardening, I am still not that bad. My sister have long way to catch up, my mom just don't listen...:P My dad just waiting to taste the food, more like a a commentator for food...ha ha...but he looks forward when I cook. And my nieces, they eat my food....(know that kids are picky with food). ^^Y

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## Blue Whale

So the 4 wooden planks are painted. I will leave it overnight for drying before turning it to continue painting. There is one side and the back side not painted yet.



4 planks if you cannot see it. I still have another 3 planks with a small piece of wood as remainder. Will think how I want to use it later on.

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## Blue Whale

> Massive project you have there. 
> Actually, with the amount of work you're doing, it might be worth while to invest in a set of socket wrench but I suppose this information came too late  
> 
> Have fun and keep the updates coming!


socket wrench....precisely what I was thinking at the time of construction. But, just ask yourself for a while, how many times in your lifetime would you need to construct a rack? I mean I was also thinking the same as you, but the white angel asked, "Are you building 1 set of racks every month that you need a socket wrench?" But the dark angel said, "Wouldn't it be nice to have a set of socket wrench". Here is the fact, the last time I build one was more than 20 years ago. Maybe under the age of 20.

It was fun though, I fully agree with you...just back breaking for my current age. Anyway I agree with Bosstek and the two angels, good to have but no need to get it so fast... new toy in the thought.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A note to Future Builders,

Even at the completion of the rack, do know that this steel rack is very customisable and there are a lot of rack design out there. The best way to plan for one is to actually draw it out using paper and pencil.



This kinda rack is known as modular mounting. For this picture, it is a battery modular mounting, most suitable in a Solar Panel Design.



Notice the supporting bar at the side.



This is another way of using the rack. See how they use empty slots to put bins but the 1st and last tier are both different.



Here is one more on how to strengthen the sides, alternating at each tier.



So basically, there are many designs out there. Importantly just sit down and plan. Usage of wooden planks prevents caving in. But know the shelf life of a wooden plank. If no painting is applied and it is exposed to constant water, it's liken to dropping a sheet of paper into water and watching it degrade as time goes by. Paint it. That is the most simple approach.

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## Blue Whale

Finally, the final stage of the rack construction!

From this.



to This.



Okay I think along the way, some of you might be tempted to say, why use black color. Now in any scaping tanks or even say you want to keep shrimps or apistos, the background has to be dark inorder to bring out the color of your deary pets. At this stage, all screws are re-fastened one more last time. The final touch of the painting is being applied and just wait for 2 days for it dry. So basic cost for the rack itself takes me to $220 as the final cost. $180 (initial cost) + $40 (Additional cost due to strengthening of structure). My guess is that I might not need to strengthen even further as weighting down itself, gravity would have already been my friend. Woodlands is afterall on a bed of lime stones which has the strongest foundation in the entire of Singapore.

Tabulating construction phases:
Phase 1 Design work - *Completed*
Phase 2 Order and Transportation of construction materials I - *Completed*
Phase 3 Construction and Painting of Rack - *Completed*
Phase 4 Arming the rack with Electrical Circuits - yet to start.
Phase 5 Air tube arming, connecting to Beetle 12000 air pump - yet to start.
Phase 6 Scaping and tank recycling phase - yet to start.
Phase 7 Bring in the plants - yet to start.
 Phase 8 Bring in the Fishes - yet to start.

Phase 4 should be the easy one of them all. Phase 5 would need to take up some design. I would want to construct some kind of water induction system where water is guided from the top to the bottom using gravity and no electrical power will be involved. Sounds a bit challenging here, yah? I should think so, it should be one of it's kind around here. I will need to find a large toyogo type of water tub to insert on top. I wouldn't plan for maximum. No point worrying at this point, tanks will be added as time proceed.

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## s98432512

nice work . !!!

how is the load amount the rack able to take ?

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## Blue Whale

> nice work . !!!
> 
> how is the load amount the rack able to take ?


At least 100kg？ Planks prevent cave in.

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## s98432512

> At least 100kg？ Planks prevent cave in.


Hi.

i have to very much agree with the flexibility on the construction but what concern me it load capacity. would like to check with you if it would be able to tahan a 6 footer tank ??? the reasons i am asking is because i myself want to custom build a 6 footor tank and very much like the idea of your rack.

Do you think it is able to hold a six footer ?


thanks

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## tetrakid

There shouldn't be any problems as long as the whole structure remains stationary all the time, as the weight of the full tanks will be bearing on the four angle-iron vertical supports as a downward force.

If the structure is subjected to frequent lateral movement, like in plane or ship which sways, there may be a risk of the rack metal bending due to the water weight. 



> At least 100kg？ Planks prevent cave in.

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## Blue Whale

> Hi.
> 
> i have to very much agree with the flexibility on the construction but what concern me it load capacity. would like to check with you if it would be able to tahan a 6 footer tank ??? the reasons i am asking is because i myself want to custom build a 6 footor tank and very much like the idea of your rack.
> 
> Do you think it is able to hold a six footer ?
> 
> 
> thanks


Load is dependence on the design of structure support. I did not study construction. I studied accts but work in IT. You will need multiple legs and in my humble opinion is no, I won't consider this metal rack. 6 foot is likely to collapse. If yes, the thicker kind, not this one. This one too weak.

Even Eddie have not fully load his 6 footer with water, check with GC, they have the experience many times over.

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## stormhawk

6 foot tank best supported by a solid wood stand. A typical stand like these that rely on bolts and nuts will not work in the long term for a tank of that size.

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## Blue Whale

Rose wood, and those wood for temple construction are better candidates, flexible to handle heavy loads. instruments usually use rosewood in China.

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## Blue Whale

Monday is a rest day so I went out to source for a water tank.



It could hold water more than a 2ft tank.

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## Blue Whale

Thoughts for the water tank.

1. Inorder to prevent algae, the container will be painted black to block out light source.
2. 1 hole has to be drilled through. side way, not top down.
3. Inlet to be water tight and silicon sealed.
4. The top cover is not air tight, so the inner part will be further cushioned by styrofoam (I have currently 5 plank of 60cm by 90cm styrofoam standing by).
5. A layer of soil will be laid below to facilitate PH 6.3-6.5. Originally plan for Borneowild soil but since it contains nutrients, Benibachi Crimson might be a better choice.

The pipe will be from the water tank until the 1st tier, connected to those silver, flexible long tube. 1 valve in between. At the end of the flexible tube will be another valve. This to allow water top up. A saucer or cover will be used to cushion for each top up to the respective tank to prevent any strong current introducing from the water.

As it is, the Hyflux Pitcher P18 produces RO water. Hence, using boiled water to add to the pitcher to add water. Filteration process, will see how much it can produce, have to top up slowly. At this point, you should realise that I am not showcasing all the stuffs that I have bought, so slowly I will reveal them to you as I work on the rack to make a better infrastructure.

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## diazman

> Monday is a rest day so I went out to source for a water tank.
> 
> 
> 
> It could hold water more than a 2ft tank.


Yay. you got your water "reservoir" already  :Grin:  Looking forward to more update so i camp here can?  :Laughing:

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## Blue Whale

> Yay. you got your water "reservoir" already  Looking forward to more update so i camp here can?


Aaaah.....you already seen the reservoir. So it's a realisation of what we have discussed in your temperature thread. Looks like Taiwan 101 :P, Slowly boss, I need to modify it before I can use it. Next phase is the electrical wiring part. Should be piece of cake. Next next phase is the piping, which I will incorporate the water tank into this phase.

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## felix_fx2

BTW cannot see the footings for the rack in post 38. You didn't mention if you had bought them or not.
IMO this one very important, if not the tiles may crack once full load is on the racks. (assuming after if you put the load on 2nd level of it does not make the whole rack sway too much..

@tetrakid, notice he has yet to put additional braces. relaying on corner braces alone even i wouldn't feel safe. He himself mentioned it in earlier post 37 quoting various designs that have side braces.

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## Blue Whale

> BTW cannot see the footings for the rack in post 38. You didn't mention if you had bought them or not.
> IMO this one very important, if not the tiles may crack once full load is on the racks. (assuming after if you put the load on 2nd level of it does not make the whole rack sway too much..
> 
> @tetrakid, notice he has yet to put additional braces. relaying on corner braces alone even i wouldn't feel safe. He himself mentioned it in earlier post 37 quoting various designs that have side braces.


Did a 20kg sway test, hardly swaying. I stand on the tiers also no issue. That was the pressure exerted previously during construction phase before the painting. Once the first two tanks which will be 2ft goes in, it will weight down the rack at bottom tier 1 and 2 respectively. I don't expect anything heavy on tier 3 at the moment. Water tank will be center of the rack so no issue with that either.

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## felix_fx2

The footings? That is more of a concern then what you anticipate to load. Cause the your floor crack due to 2 x 2 feet's weight pressuring on your floor. You will have hard time repairing it.

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## Blue Whale

> The footings? That is more of a concern then what you anticipate to load. Cause the your floor crack due to 2 x 2 feet's weight pressuring on your floor. You will have hard time repairing it.


I have plenty of leftover ceramic from 11 years ago, still keep them, repairing is not an issue should the day come. Your concern here is load. But I am not going for maximum weight, so not an issue as well. Based on the two tiers bracing is sufficient, just nice. First thing is to weight down. Even the water storage tank, it will not be full load as pitcher RO water at a very slow pace. It would take at least few weeks before I can fully load it up with water suppose I don't do water change.

I have to point out that Felix has brought out a good concern, we should be mindful about load when it comes to this kinda rack.

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## stormhawk

I agree with Felix. You might have to get rubber feet for the stand. Cracked tiles are not a good thing.

20kg sway test and using your body weight is not sufficient to test the stability and capability of the stand to handle fully filled tanks, including the reservoir. You should attempt to test each level with weights if you have any. If there's any creaking or flexing of the rack, there will be issues later on. I'd suggest that you plan out the number of tanks that will go on this rack, with approximate weight estimates including the water, substrate, rocks etc.

Did the shop tell you how many kg each shelf is capable of handling?

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## Blue Whale

Ohh...both of you were referring to that. Yah, it's basic to add the rubber.

Excellent idea which I plan to take a tank weight it 50-60kg to stress test the center, what weight is better than just water? Ha Ha...of course bathroom scale would be best I will +1 in case it is offscale.
Now a full load of 3ft would weight something like 90kg. So if the center support can tahan (support) it without bending, it will pass the load test of 200kg per tier. This is an overkill test.

For those building racks, do read up on this article too.
http://www.austinglass.com.au/aquariums.html

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## stormhawk

Approximate weight of a 3 x 1.5 x 1.5 ft tank is 241.99 kgf going by this calculator:

http://boonedocks.net/fishtank/ftweb.php

This site gives a rough estimate of filled weight of aquariums, minus substrate I think.

http://freshaquarium.about.com/od/aq...zesweights.htm

Going by this table, a 3 x 1.5 x 1.5 ft tank weighs approximately 600 lbs or 272 kg.

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## jamesneo

Very inspiring post. Keep it coming.  :Smile:

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## felix_fx2

> Ohh...both of you were referring to that. Yah, it's basic to add the rubber.


You never post that you buy.
What may be elementary to you may be a information missed out by other people. don't take the chance else if a noob assume you never say so never buy and loads enough to crack his home tiles... the 1st person to flame will you erm.. you  :Razz: 

The picture after you painted the slotted bars reminded me that point, cause i saw something there at the base.

Btw, when are you going to buy electrical fittings?

@ Stormhawk, lol 240KG ++ even my guess for a 3 feet is way too little.. i guessed at 180KG...

----------


## stormhawk

Easy to overload if not careful.  :Opps:

----------


## Blue Whale

Thanks all for the concern on weight. Now most of these calculators uses LB instead of KG. Hence the figure looks much bigger.
http://www.theaquatools.com/building-your-aquarium

Based on the current calculator meaning if I do 100% water load, it will be 147kg, let's round to *150kg* per tier assuming I put a 3ft tank on each tier. This baby can easily handle that kinda weight as it spread through the entire plank. So the plank has many functions here. Beside the plank, the Styrofoam will be customised for each tank I put on the rack. This will provide more cushioning along the way. 

@Felix, I thought I already bought those electrical fittings ^^" Flip back to previous photos.
@StormHawk, no worries, no roaches here...heh heh...search and burn to die if any.

Just reach home...still eating my dinner. If tired, I still rest...can always continue on weekend. No hurry.

----------


## Blue Whale

At this point, I'd paused and re-look at the design, from the load stress that Felix and Stormy have mentioned to the exact next two phases. I do take their input seriously especially when it concern weight load and weight stress. I did various calculations to confirm it before replying them. :P



I don't think most people would try this kinda design, considering it is pretty unconventional in the first place. However, the idea is simple to execute. I don't have to bend this pipe here and there, certainly there are a lot of things that can be achieve via DIY. Functional is the word here. There are people who have similar design and it works (as in the steel rack) 


I use powerpoint 2007 to draw the above, but this time round, I make sure it is not a quick and dirty design, each was drawn as close to the current rack as possible and the conceptual plan that I have in mind.

----------


## Blue Whale

*Commencing Stress Testing...*

On the calculator a 150kg was anticipated.

Okay, let's look at the challenger: No. 9 tank, bigger than your 1ft tank but smaller than 2ft.
44 x 28 x 30cm, weighing at 4kg Glass Tank.
How would our challenger fare tonight? Let's dance!



4kg as per scale



25kg mark



Almost full



33kg max



This would be normal water level that I maintain for my tanks.



Two of No.9 tank could easily fill this tier. Now I waited for another 5-10mins. No sound no creak. The plank is actually arched upwards. Like the back of a lorry / military truck say 3 toner, 4 toner, 5 toner, there are two metal piece which when touched will tell you that you hit your maximum load. The plank is almost touching but haven't touched the rack beam yet. Meaning I could go up to 40kg easily and it will not reach maximum yet.

So like I said previously, load isn't an issue and I am glad this stress test actually prove it. A relieve of course. : ) Do you think I am not worry about load too? Hee Hee.  :Roll Eyes: 

Oh yes, the side plank, it is a small plank that I put at the side (left), should the plank cave in, the plank would be the first to fall, so that is a warning mechanism to tell you something is wrong. Simple hor? ^^

So why test the center, because currently, the center is the weakest point as there is no support vertically by any beams. So pretty simple test.

----------


## eddy planer

> Rose wood, and those wood for temple construction are better candidates, flexible to handle heavy loads. instruments usually use rosewood in China.


Hi bluewhale,

Sorry buddy, this one i do not agree with you. Rosewood isn't suitable for this built at all. It will get rot when it contacts with water for too long and its basically not sturdy for this built. That why I used Chengal wood to construct a new rack or alternate way use Balau wood. Both are a very dense, oil-rich tropical hardwood. Weather resistance and immune to termite attack makes it ideal for outdoor industrial purposes like wharf, heavy marine work, boat building and piling and also very durable. Lifespan is 50-100 years in ground contact is reported. And the lifespan is 20 years and more for marine work in tropical waters is reported. 

That's why I used Chengal wood for my built. :Razz:

----------


## eddy planer

> Load is dependence on the design of structure support. I did not study construction. I studied accts but work in IT. You will need multiple legs and in my humble opinion is no, I won't consider this metal rack. 6 foot is likely to collapse. If yes, the thicker kind, not this one. This one too weak.
> 
> Even Eddie have not fully load his 6 footer with water, check with GC, they have the experience many times over.


Hey my 6ft tank's rack is solid wielded steel rack !

----------


## Blue Whale

> Hey my 6ft tank's rack is solid wielded steel rack !


I do understand why must use wielded steel....but no, I cannot imagine a tropical forest in my house...ha ha ha ... :Laughing:  Please don't kill me for maintenance.

----------


## eddy planer

Hi bluewhale

I like your DIY black-painted rack! It look pretty solid.

Can I give you some pointers that you really need to look at? 
1. Remember the heaviest tank is always located at the lowest shelf follow by lighter-weight tank. e.g.: 50kg at the lowest shelf, 30kg at the middle shelf and 20 kg at the top shelf. 
2. Never take this rack for granted, You need to mount the rack to the wall with either bracket or screw the rack to the wall for more secure. I had this experience many years ago. The rack toppled and fall over when reaching or receiving something at the top. Just for security and safety reasons, okay.

The rest , I'm very happy to see your built!

Hope this will help you!

----------


## tetrakid

For that rack, must also need to 'jaga' to ensure that the width of the larger aquariums are supported by the horizontal strips of the angle-iron rack. This is because in the long term, the painted plywood's inner layers can still get soaked by water seeping through cracks or peels in the paintwork. But probably by the time that happens, you would be ready for upgrading.

----------


## Blue Whale

> For that rack, must also need to 'jaga' to ensure that the width of the larger aquariums are supported by the horizontal strips of the angle-iron rack. This is because in the long term, the painted plywood's inner layers can still get soaked by water seeping through cracks or peels in the paintwork. But probably by the time that happens, you would be ready for upgrading.


You are talking about paint on the outer of building, when constant exposure to the elements, pots of water formed within the paint itself. That is a valid point. I would be checking for paint job again later on. I have extra 3 planks of same tier size standing by as well. Point taken and noted.

----------


## tetrakid

For your present rack, I don't foresee you will have any problems, especially since you are such a practical and dedicated person, even if any problems do arise at all, I am sure you would be able to rectify them promptly and effectively.




> You are talking about paint on the outer of building, when constant exposure to the elements, pots of water formed within the paint itself. That is a valid point. I would be checking for paint job again later on. I have extra 3 planks of same tier size standing by as well. Point taken and noted.

----------


## stormhawk

Michael, if I can suggest, wrap your plywood boards with a layer of thick plastic. This is for safety should water drop on them and seep through fine cracks like what Ted says. That way you don't have to worry about bugs boring holes and nesting in the boards or water seeping in. Makes it easy to wipe accumulated dust too.

I used to wrap my styrofoam boards with a layer of plastic, because the foam disintegrates quickly in our climate, and especially in a high moisture environment.

I also agree with what Eddy has said. I have a similar rack in the storeroom that was built by my father when I was a kid. He mentioned that it has to be secured to the wall for added stability.

----------


## Blue Whale

> Michael, if I can suggest, wrap your plywood boards with a layer of thick plastic. This is for safety should water drop on them and seep through fine cracks like what Ted says. That way you don't have to worry about bugs boring holes and nesting in the boards or water seeping in. Makes it easy to wipe accumulated dust too.
> 
> I used to wrap my styrofoam boards with a layer of plastic, because the foam disintegrates quickly in our climate, and especially in a high moisture environment.
> 
> I also agree with what Eddy has said. I have a similar rack in the storeroom that was built by my father when I was a kid. He mentioned that it has to be secured to the wall for added stability.


I did consider that before...hmm...I think can be done, but addition effort. :P puff puff puff....
What your father said is wall mounting. Well, if you want to sell the house, better not to do any mounting, quite ugly later. That was actually taken out of consideration at design stage. As in I did factor if what I to do wall mounting or not. Foam ar...my foam so many years still haven't disintegrate yet...lol. Air flow I guess.

----------


## tetrakid

Styrofoam bits breaking off is a real nuisance, as I have often experienced. Wrapping it in plastic is a very good way to prevent it chipping and also prevent internal structural disintegration. Wrapping painted plywood with plastic similarly prevents future wood rot too. All this is necessary in a watery envronment like fish-keeping. 

Stabilizing an angle-iron rack by anchoring it to a wall is also a preventive safety measure. With hundreds of pounds of force exerted on the structure (bolt-on angle-iron), ensuring that lateral movement will not collapse it is a good thing to do.




> I did consider that before...hmm...I think can be done, but addition effort. :P puff puff puff....
> What your father said is wall mounting. Well, if you want to sell the house, better not to do any mounting, quite ugly later. That was actually taken out of consideration at design stage. As in I did factor if what I to do wall mounting or not. Foam ar...my foam so many years still haven't disintegrate yet...lol. Air flow I guess.

----------


## stormhawk

By disintegration I mean that the boards will start to produce fine white dust-like particles. That's why I wrapped all of my boards. I had a board sitting under my previous 3 ft tank for close to 8 years. When I removed it, it too produced the fine white dust.

----------


## Blue Whale

natural decomposition, scare termites, lucky ain't got any...

----------


## VSGenesis

I believe mounting it to the wall is a good idea. As for the holes when you decide to decom, just go putty it or something. Better be safe, that load collapse or falls, it's going to be a disaster. My tv also wall mounted what. Got 4 "lobang"

The plastic to place on wood board also good idea. 

My very first concern was the weight that is forcing on the structure, durability and the home tile. It's just me. I see structure, I feel safer when its using cross brace and mounted to 

Anyway, looking forward to seeing future progress. All the best!

----------


## tetrakid

I am really very impressed with Blue Whale's dedicated enthusiasm in his project. It is very interesting, and it is not often that we can find such great treats in a forum. I like the presentation.  :Smile:

----------


## Blue Whale

No worries be happy, now on with the show. ^^Y

Phase 4 arming the racks with electrical circuits. At this point, only the extension cord. These are 6x ext. cords.



This is a 5x, all these 3 are 2pin friendly, as in you do not have to put a test pen into the top hole to access the 2 pins.



SISIR Certified....very important logo here. Instead of horizontally position, I reckon it would be better to use vertical as exposure will be minimised.

I should have a timer hidden somewhere need time to go and find. Now the next phase which Phase 5 is going to have to be of higher precision, each will be measured. I have two super long pvc on standby, idea to saw them one by one into precised length. Expecting the use of glue gun, white tape (shucks forgot to buy!), silicon gel gun, Electric Drill both my AC drill and DC drill. These will take a while, hence upcoming updates would be slower than usual.

Tabulating construction phases:
Phase 1 Design work - *Completed*
Phase 2 Order and Transportation of construction materials I - *Completed*
Phase 3 Construction and Painting of Rack - *Completed*
Phase 4 Arming the rack with Electrical Circuits - *Completed*
Phase 5 Air tube arming, connecting to Beetle 12000 air pump - yet to start.
Phase 6 Scaping and tank recycling phase - yet to start.
Phase 7 Bring in the plants - yet to start.
 Phase 8 Bring in the Fishes - yet to start.

----------


## felix_fx2

> Michael, if I can suggest, wrap your plywood boards with a layer of thick plastic. This is for safety should water drop on them and seep through fine cracks like what Ted says.


 I don't quite agree with this point, Painting is good enough. If it is sawdust wood then yes if the laminate is not present.
If water does go in, the water will take too long to dry up. plus the fact doubt it would be hard to replace on Micheal's end

@Blue Whale, Don't the power strips come with holes behind for wall mount? Angle slots have holes right, make full use of them. i know you bought spares, go try try...

----------


## tetrakid

The creative use of those nylon cable ties is superb, but does not make it look like a 'pro' job. 

Another possible way to attach those power strips is to use wooden bases which are the same size as the power strips. Simply screw them into the wood by sandwiching the angle-iron in between the power strip and the wooden base. Then it would be more sturdy than using cable ties to tie them down. And it will look 'pro' too. But sawing the wood into pieces will be tiring though.  :Smile:

----------


## Blue Whale

> I don't quite agree with this point, Painting is good enough. If it is sawdust wood then yes if the laminate is not present.
> If water does go in, the water will take too long to dry up. plus the fact doubt it would be hard to replace on Micheal's end
> 
> @Blue Whale, Don't the power strips come with holes behind for wall mount? Angle slots have holes right, make full use of them. i know you bought spares, go try try...


Hee...plastic actually won't last long, yes, replacement would be headache. At this point, all sides are double coated with paint. If you have a rect, draw another one around the perimeter, that is the extra coat of paint. All round defense. I have three extra wooden planks, free, I will paint it up for future replacement if any.
Even thought of using black tape but it will melt over time and replacement would be yucky so that idea was called off. Now you can see why I am very fickle minded. Because one plan comes in, another thought counters it. It's like double thinking, forward and backward thinking at the same time, countering each other before a final decision is reached. Even when decision is being made, it is again countered again during actual execution.

Actually I do not want to totally mount the extension cords, makes replacement (if any) easier, I now have 12+5-5, or 15 available power sockets expandable if future requires. Cable tie can hold it sufficient because all the wires are cable tied as well, so weight is distributed at this point of time. 3 main thicker black cable ties secures the extension cord, look back to the picture, there is one through the hole and 2 around the steel piece.

The holding weight for the extension of my current 2ft rack is even heavier than the current ones on the rack and it holds for so many years, so it is a tried and tested method of tying.

----------


## Blue Whale

> The creative use of those nylon cable ties is superb, but does not make it look like a 'pro' job. 
> 
> Another possible way to attach those power strips is to use wooden bases which are the same size as the power strips. Simply screw them into the wood by sandwiching the angle-iron in between the power strip and the wooden base. Then it would be more sturdy than using cable ties to tie them down. And it will look 'pro' too. But sawing the wood into pieces will be tiring though.


I will use wooden planks if I am doing house kit power circuit. I used to do that when I was 16 years old. I am already fixing people's hdb lighting at 19 years old...no license of course but very low cost so my classmate family appreciated it. Until they moved to another house, they never replace any lightings, they said what I did back then was already suffice and it lasted them till the very last moment. 

The white color (yellowish) color are also cable ties...but thinner ones. From the front view of the rack, most of these cable ties are almost not visible. All these cable ties are tied at the back of the rack.

----------


## tetrakid

You misunderstood me when I said screw the power strip to wooden bases. The wooden base is for you to get rid of the cable ties. The wooden base acts as a grip to hold the power strip to the angle iron so that you will not need to use any cable ties to tie it down at all. It has nothing to do with those olden SIT house power point bases.

----------


## Blue Whale

> You misunderstood me when I said screw the power strip to wooden bases. The wooden base is for you to get rid of the cable ties. The wooden base acts as a grip to hold the power strip to the angle iron so that you will not need to use any cable ties to tie it down at all. It has nothing to do with those olden SIT house power point bases.


Like that I use casing better right? lol...no need lah. Cheapo setup.

I saw and saw the pipes and realised...i just ran out of 1 pvc pipe. 1 = 5-6m long. Ha Ha...--" need to get more pipes tomorrow...but it means more rest tonight.

----------


## tetrakid

No no, you still misunderstood, lol. 
I don't mean trunking or wire-casing. I mean secure the power strip to the angle iron with screws. Anyway, cable ties are beautiful too.  :Wink: 



> Like that I use casing better right? lol...no need lah. Cheapo setup.
> 
> I saw and saw the pipes and realised...i just ran out of 1 pvc pipe. 1 = 5-6m long. Ha Ha...--" need to get more pipes tomorrow...but it means more rest tonight.

----------


## Blue Whale

> No no, you still misunderstood, lol. 
> I don't mean trunking or wire-casing. I mean secure the power strip to the angle iron with screws. Anyway, cable ties are beautiful too.


Umm....Oh that...answered previously to Felix. Cable tie is sufficient. No need any more screws. It will firstly make it more work, looks unsightly. At this point, I only hope that the piping itself will not be unsightly. Paint? Hmm....need to get 1 more litre anyway...tomorrow tomorrow.

----------


## mincedmeat

Actually, my concern with this lay out is more so on the electrical output. Having so many sockets, wouldn't it cause a power trip? Did you upgrade your power box?

----------


## Blue Whale

> Actually, my concern with this lay out is more so on the electrical output. Having so many sockets, wouldn't it cause a power trip? Did you upgrade your power box?


Each room is constructed as a circuit. Air con itself runs on a circuit by itself. This was laid out at time of renovating my house 11 years ago (Year 2000). So power trip is unlikely unless due to thunderstorm. Woodlands is an area which frequently power trip on thunderstorm. As with recent rain, several area have blackout as well, like tampines, thomson, etc. If you have Android, download SG Traffic, it will show you where are the area of blackout and where are the traffic jam. :> Anyway, not all the sockets will be used. 1 6x is dedicated for timer switch.

Even my phone has two dedicated circuit or 8 pair of copper cables. Currently used 2 pairs, 1 pair for phone and 1 pair for my ADSL.

----------


## VSGenesis

> No no, you still misunderstood, lol. 
> Anyway, cable ties are beautiful too.


 :Huh?: 
 :Surprised: 
 :Grin: 
 :Laughing:

----------


## VSGenesis

Keep going Michael. I want to see the final product. It'll give ideas for more projects in future. Only thing is I'm staying away from you. Wait "kena" poison. Hehe

----------


## Blue Whale

> Keep going Michael. I want to see the final product. It'll give ideas for more projects in future. Only thing is I'm staying away from you. Wait "kena" poison. Hehe


Psst...I haven't come to rock part yet you know?  :Angel:

----------


## Blue Whale

People, when I talk about earthquake, please do not take me lightly.
*30 S'pore buildings in tremor-affected areas inspected*
*http://sg.news.yahoo.com/sumatra-qua...in-s-pore.html*

*Massive Indonesia quake triggers tsunami alert
http://sg.news.yahoo.com/quake-tsunami-warning-off-indonesias-sumatra-091955347.html
*

14hours ago from this postings, an 8.6 magnitude just struck off Indonesia Sumatra area, 431km from Banda Aceh. Please click on the above link for more details.

From my rack, the warning piece didn't fall down, meaning that the rack did not suffer any shock. Once it is weighted down, it would be even more solidly firm. Hence at this phase of construction, I do not have issue with the integrity of the structural support.

----------


## felix_fx2

> Anyway, cable ties are beautiful too.


 Cable tie are nice if used correctly, i personally like Velcro straps... maybe due to installing too many UCS/MXE servers this year.

----------


## Blue Whale

Velcro I would get 1 roll from Beach Road, cheaper that way, can cut to size. But Velcro do not have the holding strength of cable tie.

Today I take a break. Tomorrow night then continue with the air works and water works.

----------


## tetrakid

What fish do you intend to keep in this fish wall of yours? Can't wait to see your finished project, lol.  :Smile: 



> Velcro I would get 1 roll from Beach Road, cheaper that way, can cut to size. But Velcro do not have the holding strength of cable tie.
> 
> Today I take a break. Tomorrow night then continue with the air works and water works.

----------


## Blue Whale

> What fish do you intend to keep in this fish wall of yours? Can't wait to see your finished project, lol.


 :Laughing:  Secret! Like that then can poison people mar....ha ha ha ha!

----------


## felix_fx2

> Velcro I would get 1 roll from Beach Road, cheaper that way, can cut to size. But Velcro do not have the holding strength of cable tie.
> 
> Today I take a break. Tomorrow night then continue with the air works and water works.


Yup. It's not recommended to hold stuff. Rather for keeping excess cable tidy.

I already know how you will be doing the PXX haha.

If sat you go gc I show you something, nice but not practical. You might be able to get it like me since similar industry.

----------


## VSGenesis

Oei felix don't poison him further!! Lol.

Update on project please.

----------


## stormhawk

Instead of velcro or cable ties, buy those adjustable/reusable cable ties. I got mine from Daiso. Green color meant for gardening purpose. Bought some for Ronnie a long time ago, should still be possible to find those at Daiso or hardware store. 

http://i01.i.aliimg.com/photo/v1/500..._Tie_Brida.jpg

----------


## felix_fx2

That's what i am using alot at home. But i got free ones from office leftovers.
Sometimes Daiso sells, but they don't stock alot at smaller outlets.

i still find velcro good for bundling loose cables since i use velcro rolls however they cannot hold tightly.
Ultimately, Micheal has to decide what he wants to use still. If he bought the items already (which i so strongly think so) he can use them 1st and the suggestions he can KIV.  :Smile:

----------


## VSGenesis

Michael doing planted tank? Oh oh he put arowana ah? Hehe. Bottom can do sump or maybe top? I like. Clap clap clap.

For myself, I just can't wait for the finish product. 

Faster update totto man!!! 

@ felix, my hand itchy!!! HC doing well!!! LOL!. Foreground plants almost reaching surface. I want to rescape next month!!!! Err...anyone got dead bonsai? LOL!! 

@ blue whale, I'm no longer poison to rocks. Now I've mastered mind control. Stay calm, don't come home with rocks everytime I visit lfs. LOL!!

----------


## felix_fx2

You still have the _go LFS cannot go out empty handed terminal illness_.
GC have many bonsai, but it might need some aging before usage.

----------


## VSGenesis

> You still have the _go LFS cannot go out empty handed terminal illness_.
> GC have many bonsai, but it might need some aging before usage.


-_-'' GC has it? I didn't see it the last time I was there. Where is it? I need to find my new layout material!! No...I am not poison. LOL! And I'm not crazy either. You know bogwood will do too, just need to glue.

----------


## Blue Whale

Ooooo...VS dunno I got large qty of DW and rocks for deployment.....Oooooo...

I like cable ties, use and throw. I ain't green warrior.

----------


## stormhawk

Bonsai wood at GC is several pieces bonded together, but nicely done. You must give them for the wood to age because initial use seems to show that it will have an insane amount of fungal growth. Neondagger had the same experience I had but the wood once cured is very nice.

----------


## Blue Whale

> Bonsai wood at GC is several pieces bonded together, but nicely done. You must give them for the wood to age because initial use seems to show that it will have an insane amount of fungal growth. Neondagger had the same experience I had but the wood once cured is very nice.


Oooo...I saw $10 only at AquaStar for one of the Bonsai piece...cheapo cheapo cheap cheap.. XD lol...but like Stormy said, you have to treat it first before use. Else you get a forest on it. Okie, I didn't bother to check the rest of them. Got some outside the shop and inside the shop. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, hence I cannot tell you whether it is beautiful or not, because taste changes to accommodate tank size and tank environment as well. E.g. you might have a 2ft but you only have a very very little space available for this, so you might want to find a smaller piece as oppose to one that fit the entire 2ft.

Today still no work on piping, as I want to get some taps first before I started drilling the pipes. Tomorrow should be a good day to go hunting for taps again. I dropped by AquaStar but they ran out of it. I suspect I will have better luck at Polyart. I planning to drop by C328 as well for another product....hee....secret...shhhh....

----------


## Blue Whale

Think think think....cannot disappoint those who are following this thread.

Okay now, 2 pictures then. This PVC is half an inch. And perhaps as long as the baka poles that you use to camouflage the Army 3 tonner, anyway I cut sized into half. You can imagine me carry such a long pipe and walk a bus stop length distance from the hardware shop all the way back to home.



This is only 1 pipe cut to two, so now, after measuring physically with the rack and not with measuring tape, I started to saw them into size. Make sure if you want to do this, always have newspaper (old of course) on the floor so that later on, it won't be so messy. Also have a file (blue color, G-Tech File) standing by. After you saw it, you might want to file off the edges. A hack saw won't cost you a lot, this one is $4 with 2 spare blade, make sure you oil the spare ones. You can wipe off before sawing. Oil can use singer oil or WD 40 (Which is fish oil basically).



Okay, I should have my black silicone somewhere....:P just that my room is getting very messy so might need some time to locate it. Anyway, this will also be painted black to match the rack. The current piping that you see is for air pump. Hence, air tight with silicone to make sure pressure can be build up easily. This pipe will be connected to 4 outlet of Beetle 12000, it has a control knob for strength. Won't be silent but I will find some way to minimise the sound.

----------


## VSGenesis

> Oooo...I saw $10 only at AquaStar for one of the Bonsai piece...cheapo cheapo cheap cheap.. XD lol...but like Stormy said, you have to treat it first before use. Else you get a forest on it. Okie, I didn't bother to check the rest of them. Got some outside the shop and inside the shop. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, hence I cannot tell you whether it is beautiful or not, because taste changes to accommodate tank size and tank environment as well. E.g. you might have a 2ft but you only have a very very little space available for this, so you might want to find a smaller piece as oppose to one that fit the entire 2ft.


Side track here from main thread topic.
As I have mentioned to both felix and storm, this is a side "project" I am now basically gathering information, reading and that kind of stuffs. The bonsai or other layout material to look like a tree is main focal. Plants is the focus. But being that this might be done on a 2ft, the fauna for this might be all celestial. 

The main tank has a high chance of rescapping since HC is looking good. So priority is main tank.

Anyway, thanks for letting me know Aquastar has them. Will check it out. So while I am focus on the main tank, I will consult storm on curing the tree. Will post a thread when I'm ready. 

Thanks guys.

@ blue whale, no longer a secret once you say what it here.  :Knockout:  

Anyway, Saturday and Sunday is here. Lots of time. sunday you can start uploading pictures.

Basket, you show pvc pipe laying there. No show before and after product. You want me take pvc rotan you ah?

----------


## Blue Whale

> @ blue whale, no longer a secret once you say what it is here.  
> 
> Anyway, Saturday and Sunday is here. Lots of time. sunday you can start uploading pictures.
> 
> Basket, you show pvc pipe laying there. No show before and after product. You want me take pvc rotan you ah?


Oh...I was refering to "another product"....ha ha....

These are before products, after products not out yet. Don't think I will show a before painting picture as I will be painting first. I need to air them first before assembling them up. The tub itself is the water tank, so water tank painting is expecting to be concurrent with the pipings. I haven't saw the parts for it. It is going to be a very interested design.

----------


## Blue Whale

Hey for the rest of the forumers, I am going to make a call to all of you, no this is not a challenge. 

Go and *visually check your rack or cupboard* that is holding the tank that you have currently. Yes, even the table also count. Inspect all corners for decomposition (wood), corrosion or rustiness, and decide if you just want to keep it that way, paint it, repair it, change a new one, built a new rack, etc.

What you do, might even save you some headaches later on. So do make an effort to do so time to time.

----------


## felix_fx2

> Bonsai wood at GC is several pieces bonded together, but nicely done. You must give them for the wood to age because initial use seems to show that it will have an insane amount of fungal growth. Neondagger had the same experience I had but the wood once cured is very nice.


Neondagger's one seems starting to cure, still stinks thou.

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## stormhawk

I took mine out, dried it under the sun and kept it under storage. Going to give it a PP bath + hot water and baking sun treatment soon. I don't know what is on the surface of the wood that causes fungi to love it so much. I had bubble-like fungus all over it. Nice, in a different way.  :Laughing:

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## Blue Whale

> I took mine out, dried it under the sun and kept it under storage. Going to give it a PP bath + hot water and baking sun treatment soon. I don't know what is on the surface of the wood that causes fungi to love it so much. I had bubble-like fungus all over it. Nice, in a different way.


Hot water bath liao, put on newspaper wind dry away from the sun. If can don't give light source even better.

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## Blue Whale

The current built speed slowed down, party because I caught a bit of flu flu, but the main reason is still painting.

So do be patience for the time being. Now a showcase of part of the arsenal currently near to me, I should have some others somewhere else, need to search them out.

Paintjob in progress...
Now notice that I do not throw away leftover metal pieces and pipes. I re-utilise them to lift up the painted stuffs. Previously, it was used to lift up the rack for retrofitting.



From the piping Platoon.



From piping 2nd platoon.
By looking at the new taps and old taps, you would have already know that this is not the first time I am doing this. That is not all of the old taps btw...



From the styrofoam platoon 1.



I will finish up the paint job on the piping first so that I can do assembling later on. Expecting another round of paint job on the air piping system before I start connecting up to the Beetle 12000.

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## Blue Whale

Fri and Sat had me going around AquaStar, Y618, Green Chapter, C328 and Polyart (You can include JZX, Woodlands Vista Point Market LFS if you are looking at past few weeks)...despite a weaker immune system and feeling tired.

Jumping from one shop to another. 

Products in review, 

*Water*
Currently for water, considering between Mosura Filtration System or Hyflux Pitcher P18. Price differences is of course a lot. Hyflux would be half the cost for 1 year whilst Mosura is for 2 years. Mosura is RO system in effect definitely a better choice where pocket is deep enough.

*Substrate*
Borneowild (Already got 8kg), ADA Amazonia II, ADA Africana, Benibachi Crimson, Mosura Red Soil. Pretty much spoilt for choice...but the properties of the soil behaves differently hence there must be a very careful selection.

*Filters*
GEX Slim L, M, Totto S Filter, PowerHouse (Pretty impressive thingy), sponge filters (got 2 at the moment)

*DIY CO2
*I believe I have 3x JBL CO2 DIY System under the desk. Need to consider which tank will actually needs it. My current mix allows 5-6weeks continuous operation at 24/7 but smaller tank might be a different story compared to a 2ft.

*Measurement tools*
Considering PH Test Pen (sooner or later must get one), TDS Test Pen (If I get the Mosura Filtration System)

*Tanks*
Looking at the build for BW tank, ADA tank, GEX tank. So far GEX I look at it the most which is lower budget. But delivery is an issue here less I can solve the transportation issue. Most likely to work this out with Y618 or maybe I should make a trip to NA to ask around.

*Fishes/Shrimps*
I am looking around currently. A brief discussion with the forum guys but many seems to focus on Selling the fish after breeding. Hmm...I was thinking of keeping them actually...ha ha...but quite true, after a while, you might not have the space to keep all of them. Selling them off is a wise option. And yah, at this point, I remember Aura Blue instead of Aqua Blue, a name which was formally recognised exactly one year ago worldwide.

*Plants*
Some Aquatic plants and terra plants are still being cultivated seperately even though M1-M3 are not doing great. Even if there is a small patch left, I will still try my best. The soil is reusable anyway. At the same time, I still going around looking at different Moss, different aquatic and terra plants. 

On a separate front, I am occupying myself with more readings on fish and plants, hoping to catch up at a faster pace. Best of luck to me. : >

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## diazman

> *Filters*
> * Totto S Filter*


Totto lah, way to go  :Grin:  spread the poison.. hahaha

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## Blue Whale

> Totto lah, way to go  spread the poison.. hahaha


This is a night shot in pitch black after 12am. With the help of a green LED in 24/7 operation and the LED Flash from my SGS2, this shot was captured with the Totto S canister filter in full operation. Temperature reading at that point was 25.5C. Condensation occurs. Some of these plants will be transferred to new tanks for operation. But this is just the main tank. I still got the angel fish tank which I do not show off in most of the shots. To the left of the tank, you would see a Totto Bubble Stopper which is not in operation at time of shot.  :Wink:

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## xXXXx13

> The current built speed slowed down, party because I caught a bit of flu flu, but the main reason is still painting.


Bro, take care man. Hope you get well soon.

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## diazman

> This is a night shot in pitch black after 12am. With the help of a green LED in 24/7 operation and the LED Flash from my SGS2, this shot was captured with the Totto S canister filter in full operation. Temperature reading at that point was 25.5C. Condensation occurs. Some of these plants will be transferred to new tanks for operation. But this is just the main tank. I still got the angel fish tank which I do not show off in most of the shots. To the left of the tank, you would see a Totto Bubble Stopper which is not in operation at time of shot.


The true TOTTO power.  :Laughing:  Your rack is really seeping poison la. Fire up "DIYness" in me and all the people camping your thread  :Razz:

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## Blue Whale

Ha Ha...Steven, no worries, will do. I have electric acupoint massage system and a strong dose of vitamins. So it won't blow up one. But tireness must rest and hopefully I don't wake up at 5+am which is my regular wake up time...lol.

DZ....ha...based on the equipments shown you already kena poisoned. Now at this stage is to *wait for the paint to dry up.* I don't need to power up my impact drill yet. I be using the battery operated one which will drill at a slower pace and allow for more adjustments for each of the holes. Drilling is a tiring job because you need to press down with force as well, then the other part is to use the white tape and seal each tap one by one. So the more taps, the more tiring. Based on the number of tanks I be deploying I might not need to drill 20 holes anyway...but just in case, I have spare standing by. Important to keep spare if you do not want to imagine yourself waking up at 3am and travel to Polyart just to get supplies to fix the problem.

I suspect the poisoning part may not be the rack itself because it provides infrastructure support. The more poisoning ones may be the tanks which will be setup in DW and Iwa scape separately. Heh Heh....

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## VSGenesis

Keep it up!

Filter. Go for totto.

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## Blue Whale

Right, those who are following the thread, and interested in just the rack, focus on the rack cost, the electrical cost, the piping cost. I should think these are the basic costing that you will be interested. Now supposed you are able to get a custom rack, it really doesn't mean that you will skip the rest of the costing. It comes down to how you would want to utilise your rack.

Touching a bit on the lighting itself. CFL, what is CFL?
Compact Fluorescent Light, basically has a shelf life between 7,000-15,000 hours in current modern day designed for maximum efficiency. I have been using this since Year 2000 as House Lighting. It wasn't later that I decided to use it on a fish tank and it gives very good result. Now I know you would be worry about the halving of light intensity, I can tell you that it is not strong to the point like having a MH light but it is sufficient for the plant. It still depend on the wattage. For those who have your own argument on this, please try the light first. You should know to discount on the articles that you read.

Some of you might want to explore the LED option which has a higher initial cost than CFL but have lower running cost. Ha Ha...I do not think got people owned and test LED for 50,000 hours yet. But it just gives you a guideline or a rough idea just how long LED last. LED is about 3x times of CFL initial cost. So assuming you put 50,000 vs 45,000 they are still pretty close. Now what is the diff here? Running cost. Bill size wise, CFL would be higher than LED.

Here is a comparison chart which you might be interested to read up. But again, discount this article as it is not based on modern LED and modern CFL. Yes, I am asking you to not take the data in it's totality instead CFL are made different according to different brands and so is LED.
http://www.designrecycleinc.com/led%20comp%20chart.html

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## tetrakid

Actually LEDs are a dime for dozens. The LEDs themselves are dirt cheap. It is the electronic circuitry and other components that make it expensive.

Regarding using CFL for home, I have come across some reservations, and even on YouTube, about the harmfulness of high UV radiation on CFLs which can cause skin problems when exposed to it for long periods at close range. Any views on this?

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## Blue Whale

> Actually LEDs are a dime for dozens. The LEDs themselves are dirt cheap. It is the electronic circuitry and other components that make it expensive.
> 
> Regarding using CFL for home, I have come across some reservations, and even on YouTube, about the harmfulness of high UV radiation on CFLs which can cause skin problems when exposed to it for long periods at close range. Any views on this?


I become charcoal like skin color tone due to my working condition which requires me to travel, but my nieces are white as snow. So the UV thingy I dunno where it comes from, which light spectrum are you referring to. Which Brand of CFL? At which wattage, generating how many lumen?

Please read up on CFL.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compact_fluorescent_lamp
The amount of UV generated is not consider harmful to human (Human Health in Wiki). Base on the earth rotation cycle, we are in fact inching towards the Sun slowly. Hence the UV exposure in wide open or even when you are at the bus stop waiting for a bus is even more intense than what a CFL would generate. My question is, got differences? In the early 90s, reports have already came out saying that one of these days human would have increased skin cancer issue. I think it's a matter of acceptance. We are currently in that era where skin cancer cases are starting to build up. The ironic thing is.....the pollution we generate is shielding us from the harmful effect but we get higher temperature swing. We human are like fish and the earth is like a fish tank. Change in water parameters, everyone starts to cry out.

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## Blue Whale

Back on the farm itself. Perhaps my eyes not good so I did not noticed the layer of green on the surface of water.
Looks like good potent stuffs here, the 4 endlers swarm in upon introducing it into the tank.

With the success of the first MA-1 for Algae, I decided to expand into another two tubs. So I will be culturing 3 tubs of it instead of the current one.
Of course, I would dose my regular stuffs like Flourish, FE, Potassium, Nitrogen, Trace, Phosphorous all from the entire Seachem series except Excel. At the start, I was using tap water, but after all the GC lessons, sharing and discussion, the subsequent top up was using aquarium water instead. Pretty rich in nutrients. Again, from my bamboo, I harvested some hydro pellets which are algae filled and put into the MA-2 and MA-3 separately. A bit of algae water from MA-1 supplement the rest of the water with some algae materials. That should do it.

Do you see the rack on the right, now below it is an air revitaliser so the rack would be swaying in circular motion. In fact, the algae water have a slight gentle swaying in circular motion as well. My guess is that the circular motion will help to promote the algae but this is my theory and MA-1 had been on this rack. Looking at MA-2 and MA-3, I am already looking at Greenish like water against the light, should have sufficient green materials inside.

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## Blue Whale

Construction of the air pipe.
One of the difficult portion which I consider. Because the turning of taps is very exhausting. 

So begin the construction after the paint have dried. First, both ends must be tied with white tape before inserting into the respective joints.


So I am starting from the center piece of the piping. Looking good, Looking good....



And so the next piece is in as well at the side, this forms the bottom of the frame.



And wa-la! The bottom is completed at almost precise positioning.



And so the frame is completed.

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## Blue Whale

Okay, the drilling.
And this is where things start to get wrong as I lost my concentration.

First of all the black decker seems to be too weak to drill through, so bringing in the Big Brother of Drill.



And then I was drilling the top pole, thinking it was the bottom, and so double drilling occurs....:P

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## Blue Whale

So here we see some negative demonstrations.



And the last negative demonstration.



Quite bad right? So no choice lor....dismantle then saw a new pipe and replace the damaged one.





But this is not the only set back currently.

One I found my silicone gun, bad news is both tub of silicone dried up totally and harden, so I have to discard both tub of them.

Next, I found that the wiring that I previously do isn't up to standard, so expecting some dismantling and retying again later on. I can meantime do other things first, this I will leave it for a later portion.

Missing 3 taps, so I will search through my old stock to see if I still have spare ones lying around or not. If not, re-stocking at the LFS means I have to travel a bit.

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## xXXXx13

Maybe can get some putty and mend the unnecessary holes. Do up whatever drillings required and give another freshcoat. Should be looking good then :Opps:

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## Blue Whale

> Maybe can get some putty and mend the unnecessary holes. Do up whatever drillings required and give another freshcoat. Should be looking good then


Yeah...then the pipe will already been structurally weaken against pressure. No choice lah...discard. This is just one of thing you have to do even though it might be sayang (regretfully) to do so. Nevertheless, due to the lack of pipes I can start a bit of painting.

So moved to next phase, the modification of the water tank, with Styrofoam. Aaaaah....this is the part you all might want to look out for. For that, you'd have to wait until tomorrow...heh heh. Some of you already know I am quite skilled with Pen knife. Eddie would love that...ha ha. But No....a Styrofoam Cutter will be used. This presents more challenge. Here is a demo pict of what I have done with pen knife after attending Eddie's sharing session.

Look at the size and compare it to the pen knife. ^^Y

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## felix_fx2

> Keep it up!
> 
> Filter. Go for totto.


 He already has.... he maybe will invest further in another totto item.

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## jamesneo

....
*DIY CO2
*I believe I have 3x JBL CO2 DIY System under the desk. Need to consider which tank will actually needs it. My current mix allows 5-6weeks continuous operation at 24/7 but smaller tank might be a different story compared to a 2ft.
....



Very nice work with detail and neat. 
Since you have invested quite a substantial amount of time and effort in this project, why not just invest a bit more on a C02 tank.  :Smile: 
Just my 2cts. 
Can't wait to see the end product.  :Smile:

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## Blue Whale

> ....
> *DIY CO2
> *I believe I have 3x JBL CO2 DIY System under the desk. Need to consider which tank will actually needs it. My current mix allows 5-6weeks continuous operation at 24/7 but smaller tank might be a different story compared to a 2ft.
> ....
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice work with detail and neat. 
> Since you have invested quite a substantial amount of time and effort in this project, why not just invest a bit more on a C02 tank. 
> ...


For a rack with many many tanks use a CO2 tank? Cannot lah...it really depends if I were to embarking on the shrimp journey or not.

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## VSGenesis

Actually if you have a few tanks then perhaps 2-3 can use the co2 injection so you can keep different type of plants while the rest non co2 tank injection. Just a suggestion.

If shrimp is not where you're going then perhaps all the talk conducted by uncle ron can put to good use. Go killi.

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## Blue Whale

> Actually if you have a few tanks then perhaps 2-3 can use the co2 injection so you can keep different type of plants while the rest non co2 tank injection. Just a suggestion.
> 
> If shrimp is not where you're going then perhaps all the talk conducted by uncle ron can put to good use. Go killi.


Killi is no commitment then proceed. If like no time to take care, better not to proceed with it. But there are still others to consider. Like RO water, suppose I am going to keep hardy fish then I will not even consider RO water in the first place. I'd like it to planted, however, a new planted tank might emerged from within. I still trying to conceptualise each tank. In the process for a lookout for tanks as well.

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## Blue Whale

Principal armaments:



Front view:



Cutters and Paint, oh...these are bought over time not one shot go get all the stuffs. Certain things just stock up along the way. Only bring out for the bigger project.



Close up on the Art Knife.

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## VSGenesis

> Killi is no commitment then proceed.


you mean have commitment then proceed.

How many tanks are we looking at here? Plants would be nice bro. Since you're growing plants seperately, you have a good supply. Looking forward bro.

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## VSGenesis

Eh!!! Michael!! Coincidence!!! Lol i just bought some styrofoam boards too. Haha

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## Blue Whale

> you mean have commitment then proceed.
> 
> How many tanks are we looking at here? Plants would be nice bro. Since you're growing plants seperately, you have a good supply. Looking forward bro.


No no...no commitment in the secular world. Care-free, nothing to do, don't drink, don't womanised....roger? Like that can give the hobby more time.
Hmm....I don't think enough, I still growing some here. I should deploy my Golden Nana into the main tank for the time being....

Meanwhile, tub has been scrapped and left to wind dry first. I do not want to load up the silicone Sealant at this point, will do multiple sealing one shot so that it is not dry up later.

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## Blue Whale

Tuesday, I'd love to play idle tonight, but with the heat wave round the corner, I decided not to stop for a rest, maybe will work less a bit.

Okay, I have used the Styrofoam Cutter to cut out the basic shape of the Water tank.
Notice I keep all the extra styrofoams that are being cut out in a shoebox. (Where do you find a shoebox? Well, you have to keep it each time you buy a new pair of shoe)



The water tank is dried up at this point of time after washing. And so I can commence on painting the exterior. Interior will not be painted.



Okay, I mentioned bits and pieces of styrofoam are saved up. What can you do with them later?
A block of styrofoams if you stick it together using silicon, can be shaped into something else. You could emulate the rock surface. But some extra works will need to be done. As I do not have the materials for further processing, let's just leave it as it is for the time being.

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## Blue Whale

I was thinking what to write for tonight, then I remember VS and time to poison him and everyone alike.

*Warning: Dangerous Sighting! Poison!!!! 
Do not continue to read!*

Scroll down if you cannot resist being poisoned...ha ha....


^o^/ I found this batch of Rocks at GC.



Top View please...

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## Blue Whale

Following the really really hot weather that is going to come, concept design plans were immediately drawn up to combat any heat and bad air to be.

Hence, born the concept design for my Air Cooler v.1. Now I do not think this is a new concept here. In the past, people have been using similar designs who end up with a lot of algae water or bacteria filled water. This design seeks to remove that or to steer away from all these. Topping up of water is still a must. I got Uncle Ron to critic on the design and precious inputs came from him on how to improve the stand of the filter and what materials can be use. It was a worthwhile trip down to GC.



This contraption is to be position near to a window which is open. So basically we are looking at two functions here: To Clean the Air, To Cool the Air.



I consulted also PolyArt Uncle who pointed to me to Dymax water pump 200L/hr for $8 ea. So if you want to follow the design and make your own Air Cooler, you may do so. But do note that the plastic tube you have to find from Hardware Shop as PolyArt sells standard small tubings. (Eheim tubings not within discussion and is sold at PolyArt). I have to go source for materials before I can start construction. The idea here is to cool the room, once the ambience temperature drops, so will the tank temperature or in theory.

I shall continue with the rack progress tomorrow and over the weekend so you have time to digest the above postings. Those who have not finish with Page 7 postings, please goto Page 7 to read.

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## tetrakid

Styrofoam is one of best materials ever created. It can be shaped into anything for the aquarium too, but needs to be weighted down by attaching it to a heavy item.

@Blue Whale,
Do you think algae will grow well on styrofoam surfaces?

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## Blue Whale

> Styrofoam is one of best materials ever created. It can be shaped into anything for the aquarium too, but need to be weighted down by attaching it to a heavy item.
> 
> @Blue Whale,
> Do you think algae will grow well on styrofoam surfaces?


Styrofoam can be weight down by cementing the surface. Thereafter coloured in. Follow by a coating of sealant, dump into vinegar to offset the change in PH. Master Eddy have already taught us that during recent Viva Sharing Session GC. For algae growing, the best form of material is still Driftwood and I intend to use quite a number of them which are currently stored up in my storeroom. I will need to treat them before being deployed for use. Have been out sourcing for potential tank candidate.

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## Blue Whale

On the main tank itself, I still measure my tank and monitor it. I am still learning on TDS so don't laugh at me. ^^" I really don't have chemistry background.
The Aquapro water tester, aids in my learning quest for TDS.



I had another observation though. It seems like beside my rojak (mixed) style of community fishes, snails and plants, I have what seems to be a baby dragonfly which just grew up. You also see a snail on the left and two Honey Gourami happily prowling the surface. This Amazon Frogbit or Limnobium Laevigatum (I also learning on plant names as Ronnie and Uncle Ron encourages me to do so) used to be in my Angel fish tank (TDS 212), but without proper lighting and lower nutrients, I had them transfer over main tank for some recuperation. The main tank have a TDS reading of 265. Mainly are hardier fishes. Since it's closing to weekend which is the water change, expecting the main tank TDS readings to fall further downwards. Not too bad I guess...I was anticipating 300+ before testing. Current reading is very close to the 250 range, but I will try to push down further to between 175-225 which is a range most fish do well.

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## eviltrain

For your air cooler, i suggest that your fan to be near the window ( sucking the air in ) and the exit of the "cooled" air to be inside the room. 

I worry about the moist air which may cause short circuit to your fan if you do the original way. 

Good luck.

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2

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## mincedmeat

Is it just me, or the pictures have been removed?

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## stormhawk

I can't see them either.

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## xXXXx13

Hi bluewhale, how's your project coming along? The pictures you had posted seemed to be removed.

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## tetrakid

Why no updates from Blue Whale on his project? Anyone knows?

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## VSGenesis

I miss bluewhale. His post are very exciting read. =) Sigh. Where he go ah?

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